Magister Artium - MA / Advertising and media imagery shape attitudes about race and ethnicity, which means that advertising media play an influential part in constructing the frame through which individuals perceive racial differences and negotiate norms and ideas around ethnicity. Physical signifiers such as skin colour and hair are not only considered to be the most important facets in global beauty culture but are also seen as two principal phenotypes for racial classification (Mercer, 1987). These two attributes are also deeply situated within Black Feminist Discourse Studies and are therefore, culturally and socially significant (Erasmus, 1997; Hunter, 2002). As Dyer (1997:539) states: “every decision about a person’s worth is based on what they look like, what they speak, and where they came from.” Hence, body and hair politics point to power struggles which stem from historical discourses. As part of a capitalist environment, magazines such as True Love are also perceived as cultural commodities which occupy an important role in creating, transmitting and disseminating cultural meaning and in this regard, advertised texts are rich in cultural meaning and embedded with hidden ideologies. As a vehicle of social communication, True Love professes to be a mouth piece and a representative of the liberal, modern Black South African woman and portrays itself as a guiding companion and expert on womanhood (Laden, 2001). In this capacity, the magazine also creates and transmits messages about ideal feminine beauty. Following a multi-semiotic approach, by incorporating multimodality and social semiotics as proposed by Kress and Van Leeuwen (2006), Van Leeuwen (2006; 2008) and O’Halloran (2011, in press), beauty advertisements are scrutinized in terms of the different semiotic principles which afford for different meaning-making opportunities and interpretation. Critical discourse analysis suggested by Fairclough (1992) and Wodak (1995) renders a supportive function to this social semiotic multimodal framework, in order to critically explore how the notion of ideal feminine beauty is constructed in True Love and to establish how inter-semiotic relations are created, reinforced and function to sustain hegemonic ideas in present-day beauty advertisements. The findings suggest that socio-cultural meanings attached to phenotypic traits such as skin and hair remain significant in contemporary society as a result of the repeated themes in media, especially advertising. Moreover, the consequential emphasis on beauty culture and the omnipresence of idealised imagery in mainstream media are responsible for composing and sustaining the belief that Whiteness is the only valid prototype of beauty. The whitewashing of Black models show how idealised preferences in media prevail. Advertisements display how the message of White superiority and supremacy is constructed visually and verbally, ultimately producing an overall ‘visual language of Whiteness’ which leads to devaluing and erasing forms of Black identity, while enhancing forms of White representation. This paper exposes existing dominant cultural narratives in the True Love advertising discourse that simultaneously produce and inflate an idealised Eurocentric version of feminine beauty. The hegemonic standard of feminine beauty dictates that women conform to a specific ideal which involves engaging in practices such as skin lightening, hair straightening or wearing weaves. This dissertation concludes that digital alteration techniques and photographic manipulation are predominantly used in mass media to portray advertised images resembling ideals closer, which means that it effectively enhances rather than detracts from the norm. Thus, White women look Whiter, thinner, richer and blonder. Caucasian models in advertised texts all have light hair and are seldom portrayed with dark hair. Light-skinned Black women portray Western mediated standards through physical appearances which seem to emulate those of their White counterparts, which Hunter (2011) describes as the ‘illusion of inclusion’. Although this marketing strategy operates under the premise of fostering ethnic diversity and to include women from all racial backgrounds, it reinforces the belief that Anglo-Saxon beauty norms are the only valorised signifiers of idealised beauty. Essentially, having a light skin colour is associated with sophistication, social mobility, success and the resulting financial and economic well-being. Based on this, the magazine appears to promote and celebrate feminine beauty based on a Eurocentric ideal.

This thesis deals with the objective and subjective cognition of beauty by a scholastic philosopher Thomas Aquinas. The initial chapters provide historical sources and a source of St. Thomas´s beauty, because beauty was not the main topic of theology and philosophy in the Middle Ages. From the definition of beauty, we know that beauty belongs to the cognitive power, thus next chapters present the activity of the senses and reason, by which we recognize beauty. (Pulchrum autem respicit vim cognoscitivam). This cognitive power results in the objective characteristics of beauty, ie.: a) integrity; b) proportion; c) clarity.) The penultimate chapter justifies the importance of knowledge of objective and subjective beauty, from which it follows in us enjoyment (delectatio et amor). If there is a reason to evaluate the knowledge and principles relating to the beauty, there is a necessary overlap present knowledge such as science. The final chapter addresses the interesting question of modern science - aesthetics: "Whether beauty, as written by Thomas Aquinas, is a specific distinct transcendental or only implicit transcendental initiated by the philosophers of the 20th century?" The thesis tries to show the importance of studying medieval philosophy in shaping topics such as beauty and art.

Nesta dissertação discuto como os conceitos contemporâneos de saúde como um ‘mais’, molecularização do corpo e otimização da beleza aparecem na revista Claudia (revista nacional de grande circulação destinada ao público feminino) e quais estratégias são utilizadas na produção dos corpos femininos na atualidade. Foram analisados todos os anúncios, matérias e reportagens de doze exemplares do artefato correspondentes ao período de julho de 2008 a junho de 2009. Os Estudos Culturais e os Estudos de Gênero foram utilizados como referencial teórico-metodológico ancorado na perspectiva pós-estruturalista. A partir das ferramentas escolhidas, são apresentadas e problematizadas as práticas de cuidado com o corpo, com a saúde e com a beleza presentes nas páginas de Claudia com a intenção de apontar como a Revista colabora na construção de modos de ser e de viver femininos. Os investimentos na potencialização do corpo, a necessidade de escrutinar o próprio corpo, a responsabilização do indivíduo em lidar com os riscos aos quais está exposto, a busca incessante por mais saúde e o consumo do próprio corpo são as questões principais discutidas neste estudo. / In this dissertation I will be discussing how the contemporary concepts of health as a 'plus', molecularization of the body and beauty optimization appear in the magazine Claudia (a domestic magazine with broad circulation aimed at female consumers) and what strategies are used in the production of the women’s bodies nowadays. An analysis was made of all the advertisements, articles and reports from twelve issues of the magazine, corresponding to the period from July 2008 to June 2009. Cultural Studies and Gender Studies were used as a theoreticalmethodological reference anchored on the post-structuralist view. Using the selected tools, body, health and beauty care practices are presented and questioned. These practices are taken from the pages of Claudia with the aim of demonstrating how the magazine collaborates in the construction of feminine manners of being and living. Investments in strengthening the body, the need to scrutinize one’s own body, individuals responsibilities in dealing with the risks they are exposed to, the constant search for more health and the consumption of one’s own body are the leading issues discussed in this study.

Esta dissertação tem como questão central as noções de beleza feminina corporal da infância feminina Kaingang moradora da cidade. A investigação foi realizada com dezesseis meninas com idades entre quatro e doze anos residentes em uma comunidade indígena localizada no bairro Lomba do Pinheiro em Porto Alegre. A pesquisa se desenvolveu entre os anos de 2009 e 2011 e buscou investigar, analisar e discutir em que medida as representações de beleza dos corpos femininos veiculadas nos meios de comunicação funcionam como pedagogias visuais e afetam as noções de beleza corporal feminina das meninas Kaingang. Procurou ainda compreender como essas meninas Kaingang absorvem as práticas de embelezamento e da cultura da cidade ao se relacionarem em diferentes territórios urbanos. Foram analisados aspectos corporais relacionados aos marcadores de gênero, classe social, raça e cor como construções históricas, sociais e culturais. A pesquisa de campo de cunho participante foi embasada em aportes da etnografia e em referenciais teóricos dos Estudos da Infância, Estudos Culturais e da Cultura Visual. As análises foram qualitativas nas quais foram cruzados os dados gerados a partir dos dizeres, desenhos e registros fotográficos das meninas Kaingang. Os resultados demonstraram que as meninas Kaingang da cidade possuem preocupações com a aparência de seus corpos que influenciam em suas feminilidades. Pela forma de lidarem com suas peles e cabelos, suas maneiras de vestir e se comportar as análises denotaram que suas valorações quanto ao que consideram ser belo e feio nos corpos femininos são absorvidas por meio das pedagogias culturais e visuais. A investigação explicitou ainda, que as meninas Kaingang sofrem influências dos ambientes territoriais nos quais circulam. Os meios midiáticos ou mesmo sociais e culturais da cidade reverberam nos valores que atribuem à beleza dos corpos femininos e, consequentemente, em suas identidades femininas infantis. / The main objective of this dissertation is clarifying notions of urban Kaingang female children‟s bodily beauty. The investigation was conducted with sixteen four- and twelve-year-old girls living in an Indigenous community at Lomba do Pinheiro in Porto Alegre (RS). The research was developed between 2009 and 2011 and sought to investigate, analyse and discuss how representations for female bodies‟ beauty provided in the media work as visual pedagogies and act on notions of Kaingang girls‟ bodily beauty. It has also sought to understand how these Kaingang girls receive cosmetic practices and the city culture as they live in different urban territories. Bodily aspects concerning gender, class, race, and colour markers were analysed. The participating field research was drawn on ethnographic issues and theoretical referential for Child Studies, Cultural Studies and Visual Culture. Analyses were qualitative and data from Kaingang girls‟ statements, drawings and photographic shots were cross-referenced. The results demonstrated that Kaingang girls are concerned about how their bodies look like, which affect their femininity. In tune to the way they treat their skin and hair, the way they dress and behave, analyses noted that the value of what they regard as beautiful and ugly in female bodies are received through cultural and visual pedagogies. The investigation has also shown that the environment act on Kaingang girls. The city media, society and culture act on values ascribed to female bodily beauty and so their female child identities.

The most transformative moments in life cause us to look both backward (reflection) and inward (introspection). Likewise, reflective and introspective moments in film often align with important plot points. Separating music and dialogue from the rhythms of the image, these moments suspend time, creating a distinct temporality for the character(s) and the viewer to observe the past and the present in juxtaposition. The music of film composer Thomas Newman brings to life some of the most beautiful reflective and introspective moments in cinema. In this thesis, I approach Newman’s understudied, but highly successful film scores from narrative, musical, and audiovisual perspectives. Recognizing time as a linear common denominator between the multimedia elements of film, I examine case study scenes in Little Women (1994), The Shawshank Redemption (1994), and American Beauty (1999). Additionally, I present Kofi Agawu’s method of generative analysis as a tool well-suited to Newman’s unique harmonic language.

[pt] Este trabalho resulta de um estudo onde se objetivou investigar o que é a obesidade mórbida para além do seu visível acúmulo de gordura. Por um lado, inserida em uma cultura com características muito específicas, como beleza, corpo trabalhado, agilidade, hedonismo e autonomia, nossa hipótese foi de que a obesidade mórbida é paradigmática nessa sociedade, pois é seu adoecimento por excelência na medida em que se relaciona diretamente com tais características. Paralelamente, a partir do referencial da psicanálise, buscamos entender o laço mortífero entre o grande obeso e a comida, com a hipótese de que o obeso mórbido é um sujeito que não sabe lidar com a falta radical que lhe constitui: comer é preencher essa falta. Para tanto, desenhamos um estudo que desse conta da complexidade de seu objeto sem perder a riqueza da subjetividade envolvida, uma abordagem que se aprofundasse nos significados das ações e relações humanas, um lado não perceptível e não captável em equações e estatísticas. Contamos também com a experiência tida em um hospital público, na qual coletamos as falas que serviram de guia desde o início do estudo, provocando a teoria em seu alcance explicativo e sendo utilizadas como vinhetas clínicas ao longo do trabalho. O modo como temos lidado com a obesidade mórbida requer uma análise acurada, caso contrário teremos uma forma de controle do homem e seu corpo e uma subjetividade que, uma vez amordaçada, se torna ainda mais obscura e difícil de manejar. / [en] All solid things are blown to vapor in me refers to a work that had the objective of investigating morbid obesity beyond mere accumulation of fat. The hypothesis is that obesity is paradigmatic of a hedonistic society that valorize the body and its autonomy, because it is the sickening par excellence of this society in a way that it relates directly to these characteristics. Taking as a reference the psychoanalytic theory, this work was also an attempt to understand the deadly connection between obesity and food, hypothesizing that the obese is an individual who is not able to cope with the radical lack that constitute his/her being. Thus, the methodology should cover the complexity of the object as well as the wealth of the subjectivity involved, approaching deeply the meanings of human actions and relationships, which are not easily perceived in equations and statistics. Statements from patients of a public hospital were used as a guide and also as a clinical vignette, which brought consistency to the theory. It is necessary to analyze accurately the way morbid obesity has been dealt; otherwise, society will have a means of controlling man and his body, and if this obese subjectivity is silenced, it will become more obscure and harder to handle.

Orientador: Marcos Antonio Corrêa / Coorientador: Hérida Regina Nunes Salgado / Banca: Gislaine Ricci Leonardi / Banca: André Rolim Baby / Banca: Marlus Chorilli / Banca: Vera Lucia Borges Isaac / Resumo: Os compostos fenólicos ocorrem de maneira universal no reino vegetal, sendo os ácidos cinâmicos integrantes desse grupo de compostos orgânicos. O ácido cafeico (AC) é um representante, com potente ação antioxidante, prevenindo o envelhecimento precoce da pele. As clássicas emulsões são muito utilizadas pelo consumidor pelo sensorial agradável e refrescante que proporcionam; no entanto, preparações desenvolvidas na forma de filme ou película seca apresentam-se como uma alternativa tecnológica pela sua facilidade e segurança no transporte. Para vencer a barreira cutânea, sistemas micro e nanoestruturados têm sido desenvolvidos, a fim de facilitar a entrega de ativos disponibilizando-os ao tecido por um período de tempo prolongado, sem causar danos ou toxicidade. O objetivo deste trabalho foi a avaliação exploratória das atividades antioxidante e antimicrobiana do AC a fim de utiliza-lo como um ativo multifuncional veiculado em micropartículas (MP) de quitosana. Assim, foi determinada a atividade antioxidante e antimicrobiana do ácido cafeico. Em seguida, dois tipos de micropartículas de quitosana contendo AC foram obtidas por spray drying. As oriundas de solução hidroalcoólica, denominadas MPI, e as oriundas de solução aquosa, denominadas MPII. As MPs foram caracterizadas físico-quimicamente e incorporadas em uma emulsão e uma preparação cosmética em filme. Por fim foi avaliado o perfil de liberação, permeação in vitro das micropartículas de AC a partir da emulsão e do filme. O... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo) / Abstract: Phenolic compounds occur universally in the plant kingdom, with cinnamic acids being part of this group of organic compounds. Caffeic acid (CA) is one representative, with potent antioxidant action, preventing the premature aging of the skin. The classic emulsions are widely used by the consumer for the pleasant and refreshing sensory they provide, however, preparations developed in the form of dry film present themselves as a technological alternative for their ease and safety in transportation. To overcome the cutaneous barrier, micro and nanostructured systems have been developed to facilitate the delivery of substances by making them available to the tissue for an extended period of time, without causing damage or toxicity. The objective of this work was the exploratory evaluation of the antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of CA in order to use it as a multifunctional active carried in microparticles (MP) of chitosan. Thus, the chitosan microparticles containing CA were obtained by spray drying and physico-chemically characterized, and then they were incorporated into an emulsion and a cosmetic preparation on film. The antimicrobial and antioxidant activity of caffeic acid was determined and the profile of the release, permeation and in vitro retention of the microparticles of CA from the emulsion and the film were evaluated. The antioxidant activity values of CA were similar to the standards in all tests. In addition, CA showed higher antioxidant activity than ascorbic acid and trolox, and has the advantage of being more stable than ascorbic acid and extracted from natural sources when compared to trolox. The present study showed that caffeic acid has antimicrobial activity against S. aureus, S. epidermidis, E. coli, P. aeruginosa and P. acnes with... (Complete abstract click electronic access below) / Doutor

A beleza, em seu sentido vernacular ou pós-moderno, ou ainda referindo-se a construção daquilo que se percebe, é algo que pode intrigar, não só com relação às aparências externas das coisas, mas principalmente e também em relação aquilo que compreendemos quando tomamos por interesse este conceito. Esta investigação, em realidade, procura assemelhar-se a uma constelação, por onde tento traçar linhas que consigam, de alguma forma, ligar vários e diferentes pontos de intersecção, a respeito do olhar, do sentir, do imaginar, do criar e do reformular a beleza. Daquilo que é considerado normal ou anormal, do que é comumente entendido e aceito como bonito ou feio, capacitado ou desativado. Estende-se e liga-se a isso outras discussões, que migram para contextos mais amplos, históricos, políticos, filosóficos, sociais e até mesmo biológicos, para além de perspectivas corriqueiras ocidentais. / The beauty, in your vernacular sense or postmodern, or even referring to the construction of what is perceived, is something that has intrigued me, not only with respect to the outward appearances of things, but mainly, and also for what we understand when we take interest in this concept. My research, in fact, came to resemble a constellation, tried to draw lines where they could, somehow, connect multiple and different points of intersection, about the look, the feel, the imagine, create and the reshape. What is considered normal or anormal, what is commonly understood and accepted as beautiful or ugly, enabled or disabled. It extends and connects it to other discussions, which migrate to broader, historical, political, philosophical, social and even biological contexts, beyond the ordinary Western perspectives.

Submitted by Oliveira Santos Dilzaná (dilznana@yahoo.com.br) on 2016-05-03T17:54:25Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Dissertação Helena Miranda dos Santos.pdf: 6686559 bytes, checksum: 79f2766f6ef223ede82c374a33065615 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Oliveira Santos Dilzaná (dilznana@yahoo.com.br) on 2016-05-04T12:01:28Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Dissertação Helena Miranda dos Santos.pdf: 6686559 bytes, checksum: 79f2766f6ef223ede82c374a33065615 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-05-04T12:01:28Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Dissertação Helena Miranda dos Santos.pdf: 6686559 bytes, checksum: 79f2766f6ef223ede82c374a33065615 (MD5) / Esta Dissertação tem por objetivo o estudo do discurso hegemônico sobre o modelo de beleza “ideal” que vem sendo socialmente construído para a mulher de classe média, na atualidade. Neste sentido, foram entrevistadas 20 mulheres (10 adolescentes e 10 jovens) residentes na cidade de Salvador e pertencentes às classes média-média e média-baixa, de modo a identificar as insatisfações e os desejos de modificar a sua aparência física (o corpo, o rosto e os cabelos) para alcance desse “padrão ideal". A base teórico-metodológica deste estudo se pautou em procedimentos da análise do discurso crítica articuladas a abordagens teóricas feministas contemporâneas nas discussões sobre gênero, corpo e mídia. A análise dos dados se restringiu às entrevistadas jovens e apontou para a presença, em suas falas, da ideologia dominante sobre a beleza articulada a constructos discursivos alternativos e da área médica/saúde. As discussões também acusaram o baixo nível de consciência dessas entrevistadas sobre a imposição social ao modelo de beleza que é estimulado pela mídia em favor da indústria de consumo e apontaram a existência de uma relação direta entre os investimentos de beleza e a busca ou manutenção de relacionamentos heterossexuais. The objective of this research project was to study the hegemonic discourse about the “ideal” beauty model that has been socially constructed for middle-class woman. To this end, 20 women (10 teenagers and 10 young women) were interviewed who live in the city of Salvador and belong to the middle and middle-lower social classes, to identify their dissatisfactions and desires regarding modifications of their physical appearance (body, face and hair) in order to obtain the “ideal model.” The theoretical and methodological basis of this study was founded on critical discourse analysis associated with contemporary feminist theoretical approaches in discussions on gender, body and the media. Data analysis was limited to interviews with the young women and demonstrated, in the information they provided, effects of a dominant beauty ideology related to alternative discursive constructs and to the medical / healthcare field. The discussions also demonstrated the low level of consciousness of the women interviewed with regard to the social imposition of a beauty model that is stimulated by the media to favor the industry of consumption and also demonstrated the existence of a direct relationship between investments in beauty and the search for or maintenance of heterosexual relationships.

This work is focused on a woman in relation with practical and theoretical art and her social role. All three areas mutually affect each other and therefore should not be neglected. First chapter is focused on the term of art where there are different opinions. Second, the most comprehensive chapter, is a chronological overview of art history, theory and social life. Fully developed pluralism of art styles in the 20th Century presents only a number of well known authors of this topic. One of the most important chapters is also art of feminism. In the third, last of the chapters, I present my view resulting from research of the issue. Based on this research, I have created series of pictures that are included within this work.