The decolorization of reactive dye-containing waste streams using oxidizing chemicals and the determination of the effect of the oxidizing agents on the subsequent biotreatment of the streams was investigated. Three oxidizing schemes were chosen for study: molecular ozone, base-promoted ozonation, and Fenton’s reagent (Fe²⁺ and H₂O₂). The ADMI color value of the solutions was used as the primary parameter for color comparison and dissolved organic carbon (DOC) removal was the measure of the effect of biodegradation. Three different waste streams from a textile dyeing facility were chosen: a Navy slack washer effluent from a pad-dyeing operation, a Navy dyebath effluent from a dyejet, and a Brilliant Blue dyejet effluent. Pure dye solutions were oxidized as well to determine the effect of interfering species in the waste streams. The results demonstrated that base-promoted ozonation was more effective than molecular ozone for the decolorization of the Navy slack washer effluent. In both cases the ADMI color value could be decreased by 82% but almost half as much ozone was necessary for the high pH trials. The high pH ozonation proved more effective for the Navy jet-dye effluent, as well, achieving a much lower color value with less ozone. Greater decolorization (96%) of the Navy jet-dye effluent was achieved by Fenton’s reagent than for either of the ozonation schemes. Ozonation of the Brilliant Blue jet-dye bath showed no dependence on pH and the color value of the solution was reduced could be 63%. The results indicate that the dyes were selectively oxidized by ozonation and the amount of ozone required for decolorization depended mainly the initial color of the dye waste stream. The amount of hydrogen peroxide required for Fenton’s reagent oxidation depended on the initial DOC of the dye waste stream. Oxidation of the wastewater streams proved to neither enhance nor hinder the operation of the biological reactors. The color removals by biological activity were minimal for both control and experimental reactors. Dissolved carbon removal was not enhanced by oxidative pretreatment. / Master of Science / incomplete_metadata

Textilindustrin utgör en betydande resursförbrukning och genererar omfattande mängder avfall genom hela värdekedjan. Denna studie har genomfört litteratursökning och en enkätundersökning, för att analysera textilindustrins avfallshantering och de utmaningar som uppstår med EU-kommissionens förslag om ökat producentansvar och avfallskrav. Resultaten belyser textilföretagens utmaningar, inklusive administrativa och ekonomiska belastningar, infrastrukturproblem, materialåtervinningens komplexitet samt osäkerhet kring producentansvar. Studien har identifierat de övergripande strategier som svenska textilföretag använder för att hantera avfall, såsom materialbesparande tekniker, återanvändning av förpackningar och samarbete med leverantörer. Trots dessa insatser kvarstår tekniska och ekonomiska hinder. Studien föreslår förbättringar genom investeringar i infrastruktur, utveckling av innovativa tekniker såsom, samt ekonomiska incitament för att stödja hållbara processer. / The textile industry is a significant consumer of resources and generates substantial amounts of waste throughout the entire value chain. This study conducted a comprehensive literature review and survey to analyze the waste management practices in the textile industry and the challenges posed by the EU Commission's proposals for increased producer responsibility and waste regulations. The results highlight the challenges faced by textile companies, including administrative and economic burdens, infrastructure issues, the complexity of material recycling, and uncertainty regarding producer responsibility. The study identifies the strategies used by Swedish textile companies to manage waste, such as material-saving techniques, reuse of packaging, and collaboration with suppliers and manufacturers. Despite these efforts, technical and economic barriers remain. The study suggests improvements through investments in infrastructure, the development of innovative technologies, and economic incentives to support sustainable processes.

This dissertation describes the characterisation of, and development of a novel integrated waste management strategy for, hydroxide scouring effluents produced during cotton processing. Such effluents are typical of mineral salt-rich waste waters which are not significantly biodegradable in conventional treatment plants. The proposed strategy focuses on two complementary concepts: process-oriented waste minimisation adopts a systematic approach to identifying potential problems and solutions of waste reduction in the manufacturing process itself; while add-on controls reduce the impact of the waste after it has been generated, by recycling and treatment. The basic procedures for ensuring effective water and chemical management within the scouring process are described. Examples are given of factory surveys, which have resulted in significant chemical and water savings, reduced effluent discharge costs, maximum effluent concentration, and minimum pollutant loading and volume. Pilot-plant investigations demonstrate the technical and economic feasibility of a four stage treatment sequence of neutralisation (using carbon dioxide gas), cross-flow microfiltration, nanofiltration and electrochemical recovery to remove colour and impurities from the scouring effluent and produce directly reusable sodium hydroxide and water. Fouling and scaling of the cross-flow microfiltration, nanofiltration and electrochemical membranes are minimal and reversible if the operation is carried out under carefully selected conditions. A long anode coating life is predicted. Current efficiencies for the recovery of sodium hydroxide (up to 20 % concentration) are 70 to 80 % and the electrical power requirements are 3 500 to 4 000 kWh/tonne of 100 % NaOH. Pilot-plant trials are supplemented by extensive laboratory tests and semi-quantitative modelling to examine specific aspects of the nanofiltration and electrochemical stages in detail. Electromembrane fouling and cleaning techniques, and other anode materials are evaluated. The effects of solution speciation chemistry on the performance of the nanofiltration membrane is evaluated using a combination of speciation and membrane transport modelling and the predicted results are used to explain observed behaviour. Based on the results of pilot-plant trials and supplementary laboratory and theoretical work, a detailed design of an electrochemically-based treatment system and an economic analysis of the electrochemical recovery system are presented. The effects of rinsing variables, processing temperatures, and background rinse water concentrations on the plant size requirements and capital costs are determined. The implementation of the waste management concepts presented in this dissertation will have significant impact on water and sodium hydroxide consumption (decreasing these by up to 95 and 75 % respectively), as well as effluent volumes and pollutant loadings. / Thesis (Ph.D.)-University of Natal, Durban, 1994.

At present, raw aqueous textile effluent produced by textile mills in Hammarsdale, KwaZulu- Natal is reticulated voluntarily to the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works owned by the eThekwini Municipality and operated by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation. Thereafter the treated effluent is discharged into the Sterkspruit River which flows into the Shongweni impoundment. The cost to these textile mills of treating this effluent is calculated using a trade tariff formula administered by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation. In principle this arrangement is governed as follows; • in the case of the textile mills, by Sewage Disposal Bylaws set by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation, and • in the case of Ethekwini Water and Sanitation by a licence issued by the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry in terms of the National Water Act 36 of 1998. This Act prescribes a General Effluent Standard which specifies the quantity, quality and temperature of treated effluent which may enter a defined water resource such as the Sterkspruit River. In practice however, the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works is not licensed by the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry and operates temporarily according to an Exemption Permit issued to Umgeni Water who owned and operated the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works until 2003. It is thus incumbent upon Ethekwini Water and Sanitation to obtain a licence from the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry in order to comply with the requirements of the National Water Act and be allowed to operate the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works on a permanent basis. However, because of design limitations, the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works cannot remove the visible colour continuously and reliably from incoming raw textile effluent. The consequence of this is that the Sterkspruit River is often contaminated by coloured discharges from the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works. In terms of the National Water Act this situation is illegal and must be remedied. The approach adopted by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation has been to amend the Sewage Disposal Bylaws to oblige the textile mills (by the use of permits), by certain dates, to remove all, or most of the colour (to specified levels according to the test method used) from their effluent before it will be admitted to the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works for disposal. The costs of compliance will have to be borne by the individual textile mills. This business case study explores the impact of this obligation on the business of Textile Mill A and examines solutions to the problem. After a review of the efforts of that company to conform with the concept of Cleaner Production, it was decided to perform an end-of-pipe effluent treatment trial using a skid mounted pilot-plant utilising an adsorption and flocculation mechanism followed by cold soda ash softening, 'polishing' through a column of granular activated carbon and the removal of calcium and magnesium through a cation exchange softening column. The results obtained were; • that the permit requirements of Ethekwini Water and Sanitation could be met, • that a financial 'break-even' point could be achieved at the start of the project in 2005 should 43% of the treated effluent be recovered for reuse, • that a realistic rate of water recovery would be 50% resulting in a positive contribution in present day terms (2004) of R65 000 in 2005 increasing to Rl 377 000 in 2014, • that this rate of recovery could be increased should a demineraliser be introduced into the treatment train, and • that the project could be financed by a vendor on a Build, Own, Operate and Transfer basis with transfer of ownership to Textile Mill A occurring after 5 years. The results of that trial showed that end-of-pipe effluent treatment is a viable option, technically and commercially, for Textile Mill A considering the current inclement trading conditions being experienced by the South African textile industry. It is also a means of assisting Ethekwini Water and Sanitation to comply with the requirements of the National Water Act. / Thesis (M.B.A.)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Pietermaritzburg, 2004.

Background: A sustainable economy becomes more and more important for most parts of the society. Especially the fashion industry is being criticized for wasting resources and being non-sustainable. Therefore, some textile producers started to implement programs that are aiming on a reuse of garments. Aims of research: The purpose of this research is to discover how customers can be motivated to return unwanted garments, also considering possible hindering factors. To gather this information it is necessary to build a theoretical framework with customer-based theories. The thesis explored how a second hand multi-brand retailer can take active action in encouraging customers to return unwanted textiles. Method: This research was conducted as an inductive qualitative research. The data was gathered through semi-structured interviews with several second hand retailers. The analysis was carried out following the Giogia method. Results: The thesis revealed that the garment disposal behavior is affected by various influences. Influences on the disposal behavior of garment consumers are personal values and believes. The dispose of unwanted garments is often influenced by an ease of handling and the same behavior is followed over the years simply because individuals are used to a certain garment disposal behavior. The largest hindering factors why customers do not return garments to retailers are caused by a lack of information as well as insufficient transparency. This behavior can be affected by second hand retailers by providing improved communication and a motivation to return garments by offering benefits for the customer. The size of the company does not play a major role.

Fashion and textile upcycling is currently considered a time-consuming and labour- intensive process. Since textile waste materials are not readily available as a secondary raw material, the process of sourcing pre- and post-consumer textile waste usually requires a lot of time and effort, and often results in a high inconsistency in input materials. In consequence, upcycling operations are generally difficult to scale up. In order to address this issue, this research study aims to explore the current sourcing process of secondary raw material as well as the opportunities and challenges this sourcing process implies for a B2B trading platform of secondary raw material. In order to serve the purpose of this research study, semi-structured interviews with experienced professionals from five small and medium-sized fashion and textile upcycling companies have been conducted. The empirical data collected through the semi-structured interviews was analysed using an inductive approach of qualitative content analysis. The overall findings suggest that concerning the sourcing process of post-consumer textiles for upcycling, the identified opportunities for a B2B trading platform outweigh the challenges. However, pre-consumer textile waste is often provided in the form of an already upcycled yarn from fabric or garment suppliers which gives the impression that a B2B trading platform is less relevant in this case. Nevertheless, the empirical results might have been impacted by the small sample size and the strong focus on post-consumer textiles. Therefore, more research is necessary in order to understand how SMEs working with pre-consumer textile waste source their input materials for upcycling and which opportunities and challenges this potentially different process implies for a B2B trading platform of secondary raw material.

MENDING ON DISPLAY is an exploration of how to involve people in mending and have it be incorporated into everyday life. This was done through mending workshops, investigative conversations and a window display exhibiting visibly mended clothes. With all the devastating news reporting on how the planet is rapidly changing for the worse, it’s important to show that there can be joy in striving towards sustainable solutions, and moving away from current fashion culture does not have to mean compromising on your personal expression. The two main collaborations in the project are with the people interacting with it, and the secondhand store Busfrö. For this type of workshop to engage people in mending it needs to regularly occur, a routine space where one can join in for example once a month in the same place. These places exist already but few know about them, we need more of these initiatives in different contexts in order to spread the engagement in the craft. In my work I invited others to join through workshops, but I also felt welcomed into a bigger context and community network where mending is the binding force.

Consumer demands have led to the development of new, more stable textile dyes. These dyes, many of the azo type, are often incompletely degraded/removed in wastewater treatment plants, leading to the discharge of highly colored effluents to rivers and streams. Concerns by downstream users of that water have led to enactment of effluent color and toxicity standards for plants that treat textile dye wastewater. Both anaerobic and aerobic biological degradation of azo dyes have been reported in the literature; the rate and extent of degradation is often quite dye-specific. This research utilized laboratory-scale reactors to investigate the effectiveness of those treatments, both singly and in combination, on two azo dye wastewaters: a textile dyeing and finishing process water and a municipal wastewater consisting predominately of textile dyeing and finishing mill effluents. / Master of Science

The purpose of this master thesis is to address two main ways of dealing with used textile material in Czech Republic. It compares textile material as a component of a household waste with textile material as a component of a segregated waste. The main question that the thesis and the research done within it addresses is whether the costs, associated with textile waste management coming as the result of administrative tools and legislative action plans mounted to it, are not too high. Based on a calculated model of cost structure of both above mentioned variants their comparison could be performed. Analysis of its results pointed out, that under certain given conditions and assumptions the system of segregated waste collection is, despite its higher costs, effective. The outcome of this master thesis is proposed possible scenarios used to optimize textile waste management in the context of economic science methodology, available data and primary research questions.

Proper consumer attitude towards textile products and optimal post-consumer waste management of textile waste is connected with many benefits. Despite this fact, little research has been conducted on these topics. Textile waste represented mainly by donated textile from households and its material flow in waste streams mirrors the behaviour of our consumer society as well as new technologies in textile and fashion industry. More information about consumer attitude and behaviour toward textile and textile waste is needed to provide suitable waste management processes according to the hierarchy of waste management, such as re-use and energy recovery, and to ensure sustainable development and minimal impact on the worlds wellbeing. This study takes into account not only waste management of textile waste, but also tries to understand all textile issues in a wider perspective. Particularly fashion industry is connected with many negative ethical aspects (e.g. sweatshops), and many environmental issues are connected with overproduction of lower-quality textile products. Proper handling of post-consumer textile products is only one of the product life cycle stages to be solved. The main goal of this study is to discuss the results of a consumer attitude and behaviour questionnaire toward textile and textile waste from households in the Czech Republic. The study also includes partial hypotheses and an analysis of interest groups as other possible sources of information to form proper textile waste management policy tools and strategies.