The average Swede consumes 14 kilos of textiles every year and disposes of 10 kilos, of which 8 kilos end up in the household mixed waste. When disposed of in the household mixed waste, the textiles will be incinerated. Sweden has adopted the EU’s Extended Producer Responsibility policy as a national policy after which all Swedish provinces, as late as 2025, are obliged to collect and treat textile waste separately from other waste to make better use of it through processing for re- or downcycling instead of energy recovery through incineration. This puts waste management companies at risk of facing larger textiles waste masses than they may be able to handle. Hence, waste management companies must prepare for this imminent challenge by engaging the public, influencing them towards textile waste reduction. However, to engage (with) the public, these organizations must first learn about the citizens’ perceived knowledge, attitudes, and self-efficacy concerning textile waste reduction alongside the current barriers and enablers they experience regarding reducing consumption and correct disposal of textile waste. Qualitative data was gathered by employing a questionnaire and focus groups, and through thematic analysis, survey data from roughly 430 respondents and three focus groups were evaluated. Significant findings of this study were that citizens face substantial barriers such as lack of information and infrastructure, which leads them to resort to inappropriate disposal. While they are aware of their wrongdoings, they are, on the one hand, incapable of acting differently and, on the other hand, uninformed about waste prevention, generation, and disposal. However, they are open to education and collaboration with waste management companies. Furthermore, the study concludes that, while the individual has a significant role in implementing policies, a systems view must be employed not to overload the individual with responsibility.

Upcycling of textiles is a well-known method to remake worn textiles and decrease the environmental impact coming from the textile industry. Many fast fashion companies have tried to implement upcycling in their own textile value chains to become more circular. Although the effort is good in theory, there is more to be done to get better efficiency when it comes to upcycling textile fashion products. The purpose of this report was to study the obstacles in the textile upcycling chain for small-scaled actors that are engaged in design driven upcycling. This report partly investigates a specific textile value chain that is based on redesigning home textiles that comes from textile consumer waste. The report investigates the collaboration between supplier, designer and manufacturer in this specific value chain. This was by outlining their current communication and process steps. The report intends to form a ground for creation of communication tools for actors working similarly. Re:textile at Science Park Borås is a project that is working towards developing new design principles, business models and production systems in the textile industry for a better circular flow system. The cooperation with Anna Lidström, Artistic Director at Re:textile, made it possible to investigate the upcycling industry and identify the obstacles in the pre-production and production process. For collecting information for this report, data research and interviews with Swedish companies have been done. The companies that attended the interviews were from different companies in the textile upcycling industry, that were provided with as much information as possible for the analysis. The companies that attended the interviews were from different companies in the textile upcycling industry. The companies were Rave Review, XV Production, Björkåfrihet and SIPTex. The information from the interviews contributed a ground for the analysis. The semi-structured interviews varied from telephone interviews and visits. The compilations from the interviews have been carefully used to answer the reports research questions. Conclusions are presented as obstacles for the textile upcycling chain at design driven small-scaled actors. One obstacle is to cater bigger quantities of textile consumer waste that keeps the same quality. Another obstacle is the way of ensuring the quality of the product through the value chain to consumers. The third obstacle is that the communication tools are not written according to any principles which contribute to mistakes in the manufacturing process. / Återbruk av textilier är en väl omtalad metod för att ta vara på använda textilier för att minska på miljöpåverkan som kommer från textilindustrin. Många snabbt modeväxlande företag har försökt implementera återbruk i deras egna värdekedjor för att bli mer cirkulära. Även om tanken är god, så är det mer som behöver göras för att få en bättre effektivitet när det kommer till att återbruka textila modeprodukter. Syftet med rapporten var att undersöka hinder i den textila återbrukskedjan hos småskaliga aktörer som ägnar sig åt designdriven återbruk. Rapporten utreder dels en specifik textil värdekedja som grundar sig på att omdesigna hemtextilier som kommer ifrån textilt konsumentavfall. Rapporten utreder samarbetet mellan leverantör, designer och tillverkare i denna specifika värdekedja. Detta genom att redogöra för deras nuvarande kommunikation och processteg. Studien avser att ligga till grund för skapandet av kommunikationsverktyg för aktörer som arbetar liknande. Re:textile på Science Park Borås är en verksamhet som jobbar med att utveckla nya designmetoder, företagsmodeller samt produktionssystem i textilindustrin för ett bättre cirkulärt flödessystem. Samarbetet med Anna Lidström, Konstnärlig Ledare på Re:textile gjorde det möjligt för författarna att undersöka återbruksindustrin och identifiera bristerna i förproduktion och produktionsprocessen. För insamling av information till denna rapport har datainsamling och intervjuer med svenska företag gjorts. Företagen som ställde upp på intervju var ifrån olika verksamheter i den textila återbruksindustrin. Företagen var Rave Review, XV Production, Björkåfrihet och SIPTex. Information från intervjuerna bidrog till underlag för en analys. De semi-konstruerade intervjuerna varierade med både telefonintervju samt platsbesök. Sammanställningarna från intervjuerna har med aktsamhet använts för få svar på rapportens frågeställningar. Slutsatser redogörs som hinder för den textila återbrukskedjan hos designdrivna småskaliga aktörer. Ett hinder är bland annat att tillgodose större kvantiteter av textilt konsumentavfall som håller samma kvalitet. Ett annat hinder är att säkerställa kvalitén av produkten genom värdekedjan till kund. Ett tredje hinder är att kommunikationsverktygen inte är skrivna enligt några principer vilket bidrar till misstag i tillverkningsprocessen.

[pt] O Brasil é um dos líderes mundiais na produção de moda praia e o estado do Rio de Janeiro é o maior produtor deste segmento no país, representado pelo Arranjo Produtivo Local Polo Moda Praia de Cabo Frio. No processo de corte destes modelos há um desperdício médio de 30 por cento de matéria-prima, predominantemente de origem sintética, e grande parte desse montante acaba descartado em aterros sanitários onde pode levar séculos para se decompor. Com o objetivo de sistematizar um conjunto de ações em busca de soluções, investiga-se nesta pesquisa como criar um processo de gestão de resíduos para o arranjo através do uso da tecnologia de manufatura aditiva, considerando as dimensões ambiental, social e econômica. A pesquisa, exploratória e aplicada, analisou a dinâmica dos resíduos têxteis do arranjo para considerar a formulação de estratégias de recuperação de valor desse material. Para tanto, a base teórica apoiou-se nos conceitos de economia circular, para entender as diferentes perspectivas e abordagens de modelos operacionais circulares; de arranjos produtivos locais, tendo em vista o incremento da cooperação entre as empesas que fazem parte do arranjo; de simbiose industrial, como ferramenta inspirada nos ecossistemas naturais para o intercâmbio de materiais; e de manufatura aditiva, tecnologia capacitadora que impulsiona os modelos de economia circular e fortalece sistemas democráticos de fabricação local e distribuída. A pesquisa apresenta como resultados um modelo de fluxo circular aberto para gestão de resíduos têxteis do Arranjo Produtivo Local Polo Moda Praia de Cabo Frio, com base em uma integração intersetorial com empresas de reciclagem têxtil; e, um protótipo de filamento para impressoras 3D, desenvolvido a partir dos resíduos de malha poliamida para ser usado na produção de aviamentos e acessórios. Destaca-se que o sistema de gestão de resíduos PUC-Rio - Certificação Digital Número 1812471/CA proposto é dinâmico, permitindo que os vínculos estabelecidos entre os interlocutores locais propiciem novas articulações, dentro e fora do arranjo. / [en] Brazil is a world leader in beachwear production, and the state of Rio de Janeiro is the largest producer of this segment in the country, represented by the Local Productive Arrangement of Beachwear Apparel in the city of Cabo Frio, at the State of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. In the cutting process of these models, approximately 30 percent of raw material is wasted, mainly of synthetic origin, and is mostly discarded in sanitary landfills, where it can take centuries to decompose. In order to systematize a set of actions to pursue solutions, this research investigates, how to create a waste management process for the arrangement through the use of additive manufacturing technology, considering the environmental, social and economic dimensions. This exploratory and applied research, analyses the dynamics of textile waste from the arrangement to consider the formulation of strategies to recover value from this material. As a theoretical foundation were used the concepts of: (i) circular economy, to understand different perspectives and approaches of circular operational models; (ii) local productive arrangements, to recognize the current scenario and increase cooperation among companies that are part of the arrangement; (iii) of industrial symbiosis, as a tool inspired by natural ecosystems aimed at the exchange of materials; and (iv) additive manufacturing, as an enabling technology that drives circular economy models and strengthens democratic systems of local and distributed manufacturing. The thesis outcomes were an open flow model for textile waste management in a local production arrangement of beachwear apparel, through the intersectoral integration between textile recycling companies and the apparel manufacturers belonging to arrangement; and a prototype of a 3D printer filament using polyamide mesh for printing trims and accessories used in the manufacture of beachwear. It should be PUC-Rio - Certificação Digital número 1812471/CA noted that the proposed system is dynamic, allowing the links established between the local interlocutors to provide new articulations, within and outside the arrangement.

No description available.

The fashion industry is ranked as the fourth most environmentally harmful industries in the world. A main cause being the overruling destructive model of take-make-dispose that maintains our reliance on virgin materials. Academia and European Union policymakers believe the Circular Economy is a more sustainable alternative to this linear model. The transition to a Circular Economy requires collaboration between organisations across the value chain to close the loop. These organisations come together to share their capabilities forming circular ecosystems. However, key authors in the field warn that collaboration is difficult and should only be entered with an intention to actively manage it. In this study we therefore set out to understand collaboration in these ecosystems of organisations in the fashion and textiles industry. To fulfil the aim of our research, we conducted a qualitative study following an interpretative approach, focusing in on a pioneering case study from the industry. The New Cotton Project is a 3-year EU-funded project forming a circular model for commercial garment production. Using the Theory of Collaborative Advantage as a theoretical lens, we came to understand that collaboration in these ecosystems in the fashion and textiles industry is complex and challenging, yet it is optimistic and hopeful as partners try to overcome issues stemming from the pre-existing linear model. We also argue that collaboration that leads to collaborative advantage in these ecosystems is not a result of serendipity but of innovators, organisations and policymakers coming together to transition the industry.

Varje år slänger svenskar nära 6 kg textil direkt i sitt restavfall, varav 60 procent ofta är i skick att fortsätta användas. I ett resursintensivt samhälle med alltmer sinande resurser är åtgärder för att minska textilkonsumtionen avgörande. Produktionen står för den största andelen av textilers klimatpåverkan i och med stor användning av vatten, energi och kemikalier. Därför är återanvändning av textil är en viktig åtgärd för att minska textilers klimatpåverkan.  Välgörenhetsorganisationer med second hand-verksamhet har en viktig roll i återanvändningen i Sverige, samtidigt återanvänds bara 20 procent av det som samlas in hos välgörenhetsorganisationer och resterande textil går främst till export och en liten andel till förbränning i Sverige. Att hantera den textil som inte säljs i Sverige kostar dock pengar som hade kunnat gå till välgörenhetsorganisationernas egentliga syfte. För Röda Korset, som denna studie är gjord för, är detta syfte att lindra och hindra katastrofer och kriser. Röda Korsets hantering av textilerna som inte kan säljas i Sverige behöver därmed vara kostnadseffektiv men också fortfarande ge en miljönytta, eftersom det är den främsta anledningen till att ta hand om textilavfallet.  Denna studie utgår från fem av Röda Korsets second hand-butiker och undersöker tre scenarier för hantering av detta textilavfall. Målet med studien är att undersöka vilket scenario som innebär den lägsta kostnaden för Röda Korset, störst miljönytta samt störst samhällsekonomisk nytta. Referensscenariot innebär att textilerna sorteras i butik där textilavfallet transporteras till närmaste återvinningscentral för förbränning. Scenario 1 innebär att textilerna sorteras i butik för att transporteras till depåer, för att sedan exporteras till Tyskland för återanvändning, materialåtervinning samt förbränning. Scenario 2 undersöker regional sortering av textilerna där textilavfallet transporteras till Tyskland för återanvändning, materialåtervinning samt förbränning.  Studien görs utifrån metoden för kostnads-nyttoanalyser där kostnader och nyttor för de olika scenarierna identifieras för att sedan monetäriseras. Data som används har erhållits av Röda Korset och har kompletterats med en litteraturstudie kring miljöpåverkan för de olika processerna samt monetäriseringen av dessa.  Resultatet av kostnads-nyttoanalysen var att regional sortering (Scenario 2) bidrar till störst samhällsekonomisk nytta och är samtidigt mest kostnadseffektivt för Röda Korset, medan Scenario 1 är mest miljömässigt fördelaktig på grund av de kortare transporter som scenariot innebär. En känslighetsanalys gjordes för felkällorna i rapporten, de som hade störst påverkan på resultatet var uppskattningen av arbetstid vid sortering i butik, exkluderandet av arbetstiden som görs av frivilliga samt vattenanvändningens miljöpåverkan i produktionen av textil. Trots deras stora påverkan på resultatet bedömdes de inte ha nog påverkan för att ändra det övergripande resultatet, att scenariot för regional sortering var mest lönsamt.  Eftersom Röda Korsets butiker har en stor variation i hur de drivs, geografisk placering och textilflöde skulle resultatet kunna skilja sig mycket beroende på vilka butiker som kopplas till en regional sortering. Detta gäller främst om butikerna har större avstånd, effektivare sorteringstakt eller extrema flöden jämfört med de som studerades i denna rapport. Utöver de kostnader och nyttor som tas med i denna rapport finns det även ytterligare fördelar med regional sortering för Röda Korset, dessa tas upp i diskussionen och är till exempel minskad sårbarhet för butikerna, mer specialiserad sortering som kan bidra till ökade intäkter samt minskade flöden till export.  Slutligen diskuteras även det producentansvar för textil som regeringen utreder som åtgärd för att minska andelen textil som slängs i restavfallet i Sverige. Slutsatsen från denna diskussion var att det skulle behövas ytterligare bredd i utredningen för producentansvaret. Dels kring de rekyleffekter som skulle kunna uppstå, som ökad konsumtion i vetande om att textiler man gör sig av med inte bara förbränns, dels kring hur man praktiskt ska genomföra producentansvaret för att textilflödena ska gå till återanvändning och inte direkt till materialåtervinning. På grund av den låga återanvändningsgraden i Sverige skulle också ytterligare studier behövas kring de hinder som finns för att svenskar ska öka sin återanvändning. / Every year, a Swede throws close to 6 kg textile directly into their residual waste, even though 60 percent of this textile waste often is in good condition and could be re-used. In a resource-intensive society with increasingly scarce resources, measures to reduce textile consumption are crucial. The production accounts for the largest part of textiles' climate impact due to the extensive use of water, energy, and chemicals. This is why re-use of textiles is an important measure to reduce the climate impact of textiles.  Charities with second-hand activities have a significant role for increasing re-use of textiles in Sweden. However, only 20 percent of what is collected by charities is reused and the remaining textile goes mainly to exports, and a small proportion to incineration in Sweden. On the other hand, managing the textiles that remain unsold in Sweden costs money that could have gone to the main purpose of the charities. For the Swedish Red Cross, which this study was conducted for, their main purpose is to alleviate and prevent disasters and crises. Thus, the Swedish Red Cross' handling of their unsold textiles needs to be cost-effective but also provide an environmental benefit, as this is the main reason for taking care of textile waste.  This study is based on five of the Swedish Red Cross' second-hand stores and examines three scenarios of logistics for managing their textile waste. The aim of the study is to investigate which scenario entails the lowest cost for the Swedish Red Cross, the greatest environmental benefit, and the greatest socio- economic benefit. In the reference scenario, the textiles are sorted in the stores where the textile waste later is transported to the nearest recycling center for incineration. Just as in the reference scenario, the textiles are sorted in the stores in Scenario 1, but the textile waste is instead transported to depots, and finally exported to Germany for reuse, material recycling and incineration. Scenario 2 examines regional sorting of textiles where the textile waste, as in Scenario 1, is transported to Germany for reuse, material recycling and incineration.  The study is based on the method for cost-benefit analyzes where costs and benefits for the different scenarios are identified and monetized. The data have been obtained from the Swedish Red Cross and have been supplemented with a literature study on the environmental impact of the various processes and their monetization.  The result of the cost-benefit analysis was that regional sorting (Scenario 2) both contributes to the greatest socio-economic benefit and is the most cost-effective scenario for the Swedish Red Cross, while Scenario 1 is most environmentally beneficial due to the shorter transports that the scenario entails. A sensitivity analysis was conducted for the sources of error in the report. The sources of errors that were assessed to have the greatest impact on the result were the estimate of working hours for sorting, the exclusion of working hours done by volunteers and the environmental impact of water use in textile production. Despite their substantial impact on the result, these sources of error were assessed not to have enough impact to change the overall result, that the scenario for regional sorting was most profitable.  Since the Swedish Red Cross' stores have a large variation in how they are administered, geographical location and textile flow, the result could differ greatly depending on which stores are linked to a regional sorting. These factors are particularly relevant if the stores have greater distances, more efficient sorting rates or extreme textile flows compared to the stores studied in this report. In addition to the costs and benefits included in this report, there are other benefits of regional sorting for the Swedish Red Cross. Some are discussed in this report, such as reduced vulnerability for the stores, more specialized sorting that can contribute to increased revenues and reduced flows to export.  Finally, the Swedish government is investigating a producer responsibility for textiles as a measure to reduce the proportion of textiles that are thrown away in residual waste in Sweden. The conclusion from this discussion was that further expanding of scope in this investigation is needed. For example, with an inclusion of the rebound effects that could occur, such as increased consumption with the knowledge that textiles you dispose are not just incinerated. Furthermore, how to practically implement producer responsibility so that textile flows go to re-use and not directly to material recycling. Due to the low degree of re-use in Sweden, further studies would also be needed on the obstacles that exist for Swedes to increase their re-use.

Submitted by Ulrich Garvert (ulrich.garvert@gmx.de) on 2017-11-29T19:14:39Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Final_Master_Thesis_Ulrich_Garvert_Textile_Recycling.pdf: 4030101 bytes, checksum: 4497870798a58b3d1a7eef253c2486fb (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Josineide da Silva Santos Locatelli (josineide.locatelli@fgv.br) on 2017-11-30T12:26:50Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Final_Master_Thesis_Ulrich_Garvert_Textile_Recycling.pdf: 4030101 bytes, checksum: 4497870798a58b3d1a7eef253c2486fb (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-11-30T12:45:16Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Final_Master_Thesis_Ulrich_Garvert_Textile_Recycling.pdf: 4030101 bytes, checksum: 4497870798a58b3d1a7eef253c2486fb (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-11-29 / This master thesis analyzes and compares the Brazilian and European textile recycling industries. The research analyzes how both Europe and Brazil can learn from each other to improve the textile recycling process and increase the rate of textile recycling. It puts the topic of textile recycling into a broader perspective of recycling and sustainable supply chains. In that it shows that both in Brazil and Europe there are significant amounts of textile waste both from production processes and from post-consumption. Through the analysis of ten interviews with stakeholders from the European and Brazilian textile recycling industry it is shown that in Europe the industry is significantly ahead through technology and process leadership in certain countries, which is reached through strong research and cooperation along the textile value chain, an aspect not found in Brazil. More specifically it shows that in Brazil a lack of fiscalization of the national policy on solid waste leads to low incentives to comply with the law and to innovate in order to find new solutions for the use of textile waste. As one of the main barriers both in Europe and Brazil the research identifies the lack of sufficient market perspectives and requests consequently investment into research for application of textile waste and its derivative products. / Esta tese de mestrado realiza uma comparação entre as indústrias de reciclagem têxteis brasileiras com as europeias. A pesquisa analisa como a Europa e o Brasil podem aprender um com o outro para melhorarem os processos de reciclagem têxteis bem como aumentarem as taxas do mesmo. O tema da reciclagem de têxteis aplica-se sob uma perspectiva mais ampla de reciclagem e de cadeias de suprimento sustentáveis; na medida em que o estudo demonstra que, tanto no Brasil quanto na Europa, existem quantidades significativas de resíduos têxteis - advindos estes tanto dos processos de produção quanto do pós-consumo. Por meio da execução de dez entrevistas com as partes interessadas do setor de reciclagem têxteis da Europa e do Brasil, percebe-se que na Europa a indústria está significativamente adiante através da liderança de tecnologia e processos reaplicados em certos países - aspecto este alcançado a partir de uma forte pesquisa e cooperação ao longo da cadeia de valor têxtil, que não é encontrado no Brasil. Mais especificamente, depreende-se que no Brasil, devido à ausência ou pouca fiscalização da Política Nacional de Resíduos Sólidos, os incentivos gerados são baixos nos sentidos de se fazer cumprir a lei e levar à busca por inovação (a fim de encontrar novas soluções para o uso de resíduos têxteis). Uma das principais barreiras identificada pela pesquisa, tanto na Europa como no Brasil, é a falta de perspectivas de mercado suficientes e solicitas; consequentemente, assim ocorrendo da mesma forma em relação aos investimentos em pesquisas para a aplicação de resíduos têxteis e seus produtos derivados.

Textilindustrins miljöpåverkan är hög, samtidigt som efterfrågan på textilfibrer ständigt ökar. Inom de kommande åren förväntas textilåtervinningen i Sverige att öka vilket skulle skapa en mer cirkulär resursanvändning som på så sätt kan minska tillverkningen av jungfruliga fibrer. För att återvinningsprocessen för de förbru- kade textilierna ska fungera optimalt krävs en sorteringsmetod med hög säkerhet i materialurskiljning. Inom kriminaltekniska områden används märkvätskor för att märka upp värdefulla föremål. Märkvätskorna baserade på metallsalter skapar unika sifferkoder som kan avläsas med en laserteknik kallad LA-ICP-MS. Om ett märkt föremål blir stulet och sedan återfinns av polisen kan märkvätskan avläsas och kopplas tillbaka till ägaren via en databas. Genom att applicera den osynliga forensiska märkvätskan på textilier var projektets förhoppning att skapa spårbarhet i det textila ledet med fo- kus på att underlätta sorteringsprocessen i återvinningsstadiet. Detta genom att skapa en säker märkning som sitter kvar under textilens hela användarfas. Märk- vätskan som användes i projektet kom från SmartWater Technology Ltd som är det ledande företaget i England inom forensiska märkningar. För att simulera en användarfas för ett bomullsplagg har testmetoder för färghär- dighet mot tvätt samt nötningshärdighet utförts. En extern analys utfördes på Smar- tWaters laboratorium i Telford, England, för att kontrollera om koderna gick att avläsa efter de utförda testerna. Testmetoderna har utförts utefter antagandet att metallkoderna har bättre härdighet än den fluoroscensiska färgen. Vid slitage inne- bär detta att färgen avlägsnas vid ett tidigare skede än metallsalterna, vilket resulte- rar i att kodens placering blir omöjlig att hitta utan dess färg. Under detta projekt har därför den fluoroscensiska färghärdigheten varit i fokus. Resultatet som erhölls från nötnings- och tvätthärdighetstestet analyserades under UV-ljus i ljusskåp genom att jämföra färgförändringen mot ett referensprov. En 5- gradig grå-grå-skala användes för att omvandla färgavvikelsen till numeriska vär- den, vartefter matematiska beräkningar utfördes för att kontrollera statistisk signi- fikans. Studien visade att märkvätskans fluoroscensiska färg försämras i takt med antal tvättar. Färgen försämrades något i jämförelse med referensprovet efter nöt- ning, men ingen signifikant skillnad kunde utläsas mellan provkropparna efter ökat antal varv i Martindalemaskinen. Analysen genom LA-ICP-MS kopplade samtliga provkroppar till korrekt applicerad kod vilket tyder på en säker avläsningsteknik. Baserat på tidigare nämnda resultat förväntas märkvätskan därför klara av en an- vändarfas för exempelvis ett ytterplagg eller en möbel i bomull. Fler tester krävs dock för att säkerhetsställa hur vätskan håller efter tid och ytterligare antal tvättar. Lasertekniken som användes för att avläsa koden är säker, men behöver utvecklas eller bytas ut för att en snabbare sorteringsprocess ska erhållas. / The environmental impact for the textile industry is already high and with an in- creasing demand for textile fibers something has to change within the industry. The textile recycling in Sweden is expected to increase in the coming years, which would create a more circular resource utilization, thus reducing the production of virgin fibers. In order to create an optimal recycling process, a secure sorting method is required in material separation. To be able to track valuable objects within the forensic area, a compound based on metal salts is used to mark the objects. The metal composition can be translated into a specific and unique code with a laser method called LA-ICP-MS. The code can later be connected to a person or an organization registered within a database. This thesis examines the possibility to apply the forensic marking compound on a textile carrier to create a trustworthy traceability within the textile chain that is difficult to remove. Instead of register a person or an organization to a code, the vision was to connect a code to a material or a chemical content within the textile product. The forensic marking system used in this thesis came from SmartWater Technology Ltd, which is the leading company in England within forensic coding. A quantitative study was made to research how the forensic coding system based on metal salts acted on a textile carrier. The researched problem was based to ana- lyze the suitability to use a forensic marker system on a textile carrier with the aim to create traceability within the textile industry and to ease the sorting process. To be able to investigate the problem a simulated phase of use was made. Test methods were performed to analyze the impact of abrasion and the ability to with- stand washing for the forensic marking. An external analysis was made at Smart- Waters laboratory in Telford, England, to examine if the metal salts were de- codable, even when the forensic marking was in a bad condition. All the tests and analysis was made with the supposition that the metal salt coding had a better ad- hesion to the carrier than the fluorescence color. Since the coded area cannot be found without the color, the results have been based on the change in color of the fluorescence marking solution. The conclusion shows that the fluorescence colorfastness was decreasing with the number of washing cycles. Number of cycles in Martindale was not significant for a decrease in colorfastness. The LA-ICP-MS method was able to decode all of the samples and connect them to the applied codes. This indicates that the forensic marking system is durable and can be used to mark a garment or a piece of furni- ture that’s not washed a lot. However, more tests are required to ensure how the solution lasts over time and additional amounts of laundry. The LA-ICP-MC meth- od is secure, but one problem is that it’s stationary and therefore difficult to use in a sorting process.

The increasing quantity of waste represents serious environmental, social and economic problem. Wastes produced from industry and households. A large part of the economy transforms a certain amount of raw materials to waste in their production, because it is currently emphasis is placed on finding sustainable sources of raw materials. One of the suitable secondary raw materials can be discarded textiles or waste from the textile industry. These kinds of textile waste often ends up in landfills or incinerators, so it is from an ecological and environmentally advantageous to their further use. The diploma thesis deals with the study and development of thermal and acoustic insulation materials based on textile fibers. It focuses on the legislative requirements for waste management for the sorting of textile wastes and their subsequent modification before reuse. Further it contains kinds of textile fibers and bonding technologies thermal and acoustic insulation materials. Finally, an evaluation of thermal insulation, acoustic and mechanical properties of fibrous insulation materials.

The focus of this diploma thesis is on the consumers' motives for purchasing upcycled clothing. Based on the research of available resources, this thesis firstly describes the most expanded model of clothing production, fast fashion, with special focus on the negative environmental impacts it has during different stages of a product life cycle. It later moves on to describe the traditional and more environmentally friendly model, slow fashion, and puts both these concepts (fast fashion and slow fashion) in connection with the hierarchy of waste management and the concept of circular economy. This theoretical base helps to fully understand the concept of upcycled fashion, which is thoroughly described in a separate chapter that also includes various examples of designers who focus on fashion upcycling. The last section of the theoretical part deals with motivation and motives for purchasing clothes. The empirical part of this diploma thesis focuses on how consumers perceive upcycled fashion in order to answer the main research question: What are the consumers' motives for purchasing upcycled clothes? To answer the question, qualitative research was used, specifically semi- structured interviews. The interviews were conducted with a total of twelve shoppers who have had previous personal experience...