Thesis (MSpor)--University of Stellenbosch, 2007. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Various types of post-exercise recovery strategies have become part of the modern athlete’s daily routine. It is a well known that inadequate recovery will prolong the time it takes for the runner’s body to adequately adapt between training sessions and competitions. Anecdotal claims have been made about compression garments as a beneficial method to assist recovery after training sessions and competitions. Until now limited scientific research has addressed the influence that compression garments have on the recovery process after sporting activities. The benefits of compression garments, as a possible recovery modality, are that it is costeffective, practical and easily obtainable. This study endeavored to investigate the possible influence that compression garments may have on middle-aged long distance runners’ recovery rate after a prolonged run. This is the first study that has focused on compression garments as a post-exercise recovery modality for experienced middle-aged long distance runners. The other unique aspect of this study is the prolonged two-hour treadmill protocol that was used to induce muscle soreness. In addressing the aims, a randomized, crossover study design was used to investigate the possible benefits that the high pressure (CCL II 23-32 mmHg (mercury millimeter)) graduated compression garments may bring about. Seven competitive male long distance runners (height: 176.0 ± 8.6 cm; body mass: 92.5 ± 11.8 kg; VO2max: 45.7 ± 5.0 mL.kg-1.min-1) between the ages of 36 to 51 years volunteered for the study. The runners had to complete a two-hour treadmill run at 70 % of their predetermined maximum aerobic capacity, followed by a monitored 72-hour recovery period. The first part of the prolonged run was a 90–minute variant gradient run, followed by a 30-minute downhill run. Each subject acted as his own control and visited the Stellenbosch University’s Sport Physiology Laboratory (South Africa) on two occasions, separated by 7 to 28 days. One test was done with a compression garment (23 to 32 mmHg) and the other without. Testing included the measurement of lower limb circumferences (ankle, calf, mid- and proximal thigh), plasma lactate, lactate dehydrogenase and creatine kinase concentrations and the completion of subjective questionnaires on perceived muscle soreness (visual analog scale (VAS)). The lower extremities’ functional ability was determined with a time to exhaustion (TTE) step test, a vertical jump test (VJ) and modified sit-and-reach flexibility test. Preexercise measurements were taken and immediately after and during the 72 hour after the treadmill run and repeated for the second bout. The main outcomes of this study showed that the two-hour treadmill run induced delayed onset of muscle soreness, with and without the compression garment. Evidence of this was a significant rise in plasma creatine kinase (CKp) over the duration of both trials (P < 0.05). The compression garment significantly reduced swelling in the calf muscle (41.0 ± 0.2 vs. 41.5 ± 0.5 mm; P < 0.002). Runners showed a lower perceived muscular pain and discomfort while performing functional knee movements at 24 and 48-hours after the two-hour run with the compression garment (1.2 ± 1.6 vs. 3.8 ± 2.4 cm and 0.9 ± 1.8 vs. 3.0 ± 2.6 cm on VAS, respectively; P < 0.05). Significant differences in perceived muscle soreness between the WCG and WOCG trials were observed at 24-hours after the run during rest (0.1 ± 0.2 vs. 0.4 ± 0.8 cm; P = 0.02) and with stretching (1.9 ± 1.2 vs. 3.5 ± 2.5 cm on VAS P = 0.02). The perceived pain associated with pressure was significantly lower with the compression garment at 24 (307 %) and 48-hours (237 %) after the run (P < 0.05). Blood lactate levels were reduced during the acute phase of recovery at 10 (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.2 ± 0.9 mmol.L-1; P = 0.05) and 30 minutes (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.4 ± 0.4 mmol.L-1; P = 0.01) after the run, as well as plasma creatine kinase concentrations were statistically significantly lower at 24-hours (238.3 ± 81.3 vs. 413.3 ± 250.8 units.L-1; P = 0.005) after exercise with the compression garment. The two-hour treadmill run and the compression garment had no significant influence on the runners’ lower limb strength, power, endurance or flexibility (P > 0.05). Compression garments demonstrated the potential to enhance recovery after prolonged strenuous exercise in well trained middle-aged runners. In addition, runners did not experience additional fatigue from the moderate to high pressure garments. The effect of higher pressure compression garments on athletic performance and the psychological influence of the garment need further investigation. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Verskillende tipes naoefening herstelstrategië, vorm deel van die moderne atleet se daaglikse routine. Dit is wel bekend dat onvoldoende herstel sal beteken dat die atleet se liggaam langer sal neen om aan te pas tussen inoefen sessies en kompetisies. Sekere bewerings word al gemaak omtrent die voordeligheid van kompressiesokkies tydens die herstelperiode na oefening sessies en kompetisies. Tot nou toe was daar beperkte wetenskaplike navorsing oor die invloed van kompressie sokkies of die herstel proses van sport aktiwiteite. Die voordeel van kompressie sokkies as ‘n moontlike herstelmetode, is dat dit koste-effektief, prakties en maklik verkrybaar is. Hierdie studie poog om ‘n ondersoek in te stel na die moontlike invloed wat kompressie sokkies op middeljarige lang-aftstandatlete se herstelperiode sal hê na ‘n verlengde hardloopsessie. Hierdie is die eerste studie wat konsentreer op kompressie sokkies as ‘n naoefenings hersteltegniek vir ervare middeljarige lang-afstandatlete. Die ander unieke aspek van die ondersoek is die langdurige tweeuur trapmeul protokol wat gebruik word om spierpyn te veroorsaak. Om die doel te bereik, is ’n lukrake oorkruis studie gebruik om ondersoek in te stel na die moontlike voordele van die hoë druk (CCL II 23-32 mmHg) kompressie sokkies. Hierdie sokkies toon ’n progressiewe verhooging van druk vanaf die enkle tot onder die knieskyf. Sewe mededingende langafstand atlete (lengte : 176.0 ± 8.6 cm; liggaams massa: 92.5 ± 11.8 kg; VO2maks: 45.7 ± 5.0 mL.kg-1.min-1) tussen die ouderdomme van 36 en 51 jaar, het aan die studie deel geneem. Die wedlopers moes ‘n twee-uur lange trapmeul toets voltooi, teen 70% van hul vooraf bepaalde maksimum aerobiese kapasiteit. Dit is gevolg deur ‘n gemonitorde 72-uur herstel periode. Die eerste deel van die twee-uur hardloop sessie was ‘n 90-minuut afwisselende opdraende en afdraende hardloop stel, wat gevolg is deur a 30-minuut afdraande deel. Elke deelnemer was sy eie kontrole en het op twee geleenthede die Stellenbosch Universiteit se Sport Fisiologiese Laboratorium (Suid Afrika) besoek. Die twee besoeke is tussen 7 en 28 dae geskei. Een toets is met kompressie sokkies gedoen (23 – 32 mmHg) en die ander sonder. Die toetse het die volgende behels: laer been omtrekke (enkel, kuit, middel- and bo dy), die versameling en ontleding van bloed monsters vir plasma laktaat, laktaat dehydrogenase and kreatine kinase konsentrasies en die voltooing van subjektiewe vraelyste oor die graad van spierpyn ervaaring (“visual analog scale” (VAS)). Die onderlyf funksionele vermoëns is bepaal met ’n tyd tot uitputtings traptoets, ‘n vertikale sprong toets en ‘n gewysige sit-en-strek soepelheids toets. Data is voor die oefeninge in gevorder asook direk daarna, en gedurende die 72 uur na die trapmeul draf. Die metings vir die tweede sessie is herhaal. Die hoof uitkomste van die studie het gewys dat die twee-uur trapmeulsessie het spierpyn veroorsaak, met en sonder die kompressie sokkies. Die bewys hiervan was ‘n betekensvolle toename in plasma kreatien kinase (CKp) oor die tydperk van albei oefening toetse (P<0.05). Die kompressie sokkies het die swelling in die kuitspiere verminder, in vergelyking met die toetse sonder kompressie sokkies (41.0 ± 0.2 vs. 41.5 ± 0.5 mm; P < 0.002). Wedlopers met die kompressie sokkies het minder spierseerheid en ongerief aangeteken toe hulle knie beweegings gedoen het op 24 en 48-uur na die twee-ure trapmeul toets (1.2 ± 1.6 vs. 3.8 ± 2.4 cm op VAS en 0.9 ± 1.8 vs. 3.0 ± 2.6 cm op VAS, onderskeidelik; P < 0.05). Betekenisvolle verskille is waargeneem tussen die toetse met en sonder kompressie sokkies, op 24-uur na die twee-ure toets gedurende rus (0.1 ± 0.2 vs. 0.4 ± 0.8 cm op VAS; P = 0.02) en met strek oefeninge (1.9 ± 1.2 vs. 3.5 ± 2.5 cm op VAS P = 0.02). Die pyn wat ervaar was met drukking, was betekenisvol minder met die kompressie sokkies op 24 (307 %) en 48-uur (237 %) na die trapmeul sessie (P < 0.05). Bloed laktaat konsentrasie in die sirkulasie was verlaag gedurende die akute fase van die herstelings periode op 10 (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.2 ± 0.9 mmol.L-1; P = 0.05) en 30 minute (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.4 ± 0.4 mmol.L-1; P = 0.01) na die hardloop sessie, sowel as die plasma kreatine kinase konsentrasie was statisties betekenisvol laer by 24 uur (238.3 ± 81.3 vs 413.3 ± 250.8 eenhede L-1; P = 0.005) na die hardloop sessie met die kompressie sokkies. Die twee-ure trapmeul toets en die kompressie sokkies het geen betekenisvolle invloed gehad op die wedlopers se onderlyf ledemate se plofkrag, uithouvermoë of soepelheid (P > 0.05) nie. Kompressie sokkies het gewys dat dit potensiaal het om met herstel te help na lang en harde oefening in geoefende middeljarige atlete. Nietemin is daar verdere wetenskaplike navorsing nodig om dit te bevestig. Wedlopers het nie addisionele vermoeienis van die drukking van kompressie sokkies ervaar nie. Sterker drukkende kompressie sokkies sowel as die sielkundige invloed van die sokkies benodig verdere navorsing.spierpyn ervaaring (“visual analog scale” (VAS)). Die onderlyf funksionele vermoëns is bepaal met ’n tyd tot uitputtings traptoets, ‘n vertikale sprong toets en ‘n gewysige sit-en-strek soepelheids toets. Data is voor die oefeninge in gevorder asook direk daarna, en gedurende die 72 uur na die trapmeul draf. Die metings vir die tweede sessie is herhaal. Die hoof uitkomste van die studie het gewys dat die twee-uur trapmeulsessie het spierpyn veroorsaak, met en sonder die kompressie sokkies. Die bewys hiervan was ‘n betekensvolle toename in plasma kreatien kinase (CKp) oor die tydperk van albei oefening toetse (P<0.05). Die kompressie sokkies het die swelling in die kuitspiere verminder, in vergelyking met die toetse sonder kompressie sokkies (41.0 ± 0.2 vs. 41.5 ± 0.5 mm; P < 0.002). Wedlopers met die kompressie sokkies het minder spierseerheid en ongerief aangeteken toe hulle knie beweegings gedoen het op 24 en 48-uur na die twee-ure trapmeul toets (1.2 ± 1.6 vs. 3.8 ± 2.4 cm op VAS en 0.9 ± 1.8 vs. 3.0 ± 2.6 cm op VAS, onderskeidelik; P < 0.05). Betekenisvolle verskille is waargeneem tussen die toetse met en sonder kompressie sokkies, op 24-uur na die twee-ure toets gedurende rus (0.1 ± 0.2 vs. 0.4 ± 0.8 cm op VAS; P = 0.02) en met strek oefeninge (1.9 ± 1.2 vs. 3.5 ± 2.5 cm op VAS P = 0.02). Die pyn wat ervaar was met drukking, was betekenisvol minder met die kompressie sokkies op 24 (307 %) en 48-uur (237 %) na die trapmeul sessie (P < 0.05). Bloed laktaat konsentrasie in die sirkulasie was verlaag gedurende die akute fase van die herstelings periode op 10 (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.2 ± 0.9 mmol.L-1; P = 0.05) en 30 minute (1.8 ± 0.5 vs. 2.4 ± 0.4 mmol.L-1; P = 0.01) na die hardloop sessie, sowel as die plasma kreatine kinase konsentrasie was statisties betekenisvol laer by 24 uur (238.3 ± 81.3 vs 413.3 ± 250.8 eenhede L-1; P = 0.005) na die hardloop sessie met die kompressie sokkies. Die twee-ure trapmeul toets en die kompressie sokkies het geen betekenisvolle invloed gehad op die wedlopers se onderlyf ledemate se plofkrag, uithouvermoë of soepelheid (P > 0.05) nie. Kompressie sokkies het gewys dat dit potensiaal het om met herstel te help na lang en harde oefening in geoefende middeljarige atlete. Nietemin is daar verdere wetenskaplike navorsing nodig om dit te bevestig. Wedlopers het nie addisionele vermoeienis van die drukking van kompressie sokkies ervaar nie. Sterker drukkende kompressie sokkies sowel as die sielkundige invloed van die sokkies benodig verdere navorsing.

When cities grow larger the demand for more residential buildings and public transport increases. To be able to meet the demands and still make the city compact the interest for underground facilities grows. Underground facilities come with some drawbacks, one example is the evacuation where the people are expected to evacuate upwards. This master thesis is aiming to further develop the research done on the subject by examining the impact of winter clothing. Two tests were performed in Skrapan, which is 25 floors high. The participants went up for 22 of the floors and were recorded during the ascending. Some of the participants had a pulse watch and a breathing mask, which measured the oxygen consumption. The median for the walking speed varied between 0,81 m/s and 0,56 m/s with regular clothing and 0,78 m/s to 0,57 m/s with winter clothes. In the building codes it says that 0,6 m/s should be used when calculating evacuation times when ascending stairs. The heart rate did not change significantly between the two tests. However, the oxygen consumption was higher with the jacket on. The participants would not have been able to keep going for much longer than 5 minutes with their current pace. According to the results in this master thesis 0,6 m/s is too high because in the tests that were made the participants were physically active and still couldn’t keep that speed up for the whole test. Due to the test being two days in a row, almost all of the participants walked slower the second time. However, the ones that walked with winter clothes the second day walked more slowly than the ones with regular clothes compared to the first day. Therefore, it is safe to say that the clothes do affect the walking speed of evacuating people and that more clothes i.e. warm shoes or a hat will have an even greater impact. / I takt med att städerna växer, både till yta och befolkningsmängd, ökar behovet av infrastruktur bland annat inom kollektivtrafiken och transportvägar. Genom att bygga dessa anläggningar under marken går det att exploatera marken ovan till andra ändamål. Med undermarksanläggningar kommer vissa svårigheter, så som begränsade utrymningsmöjligheter. Riktlinjerna för utrymning uppåt är inte till för längre trappor, och är därför inte representativt för de nya användningsområdena. Vikten av att dimensionera utrymningsmöjligheterna utifrån vad dagens befolkning kan prestera är relevant för att säkerställa en trygg utrymning i händelse av en olycka. Examensarbetet inriktar sig därför på att vidareutveckla tidigare forskning om utrymning uppåt genom att undersöka hur gånghastigheterna i trappor påverkas av vinterkläder. Försök genomfördes med 21 personer under två dagar i ett av Skrapans utrymningstrapphus, där varje försöksperson fick gå en gång per dag. Mätmetoderna som användes var bland annat; pulsklocka, tidtagning, videoobservationer och andningsmask som mäter syreupptagningsförmågan. Medianen för gånghastigheten beräknades på varje våningsplan där de högsta värdet med vanliga kläder blev 0,81 m/s, 3 meter upp i trappan och det lägsta 0,56 m/s, 57 meter upp i trappan. Med vinterkläder blev motsvarande värden 0,78 m/s, 5 meter upp i trappan och 0,57 m/s, 33 meter upp i trappan. Enligt Boverkets allmänna råd om analytisk dimensionering ska den dimensionerande gånghastigheten i trappor sättas till 0,6 m/s. Denna riktlinje är inte godtagbar eftersom försökets urvalsgrupp hade svårt att hålla den hastigheten trots att majoriteten av försökspersonerna i examensarbetet var unga och i god kondition. Gånghastigheterna påverkades även av att försökstillfällena genomfördes dagarna efter varandra vilket gjorde att försökspersonerna inte hade möjlighet att återhämta sig helt mellan försöken. Dock var tidsskillnaden från första dagen till den andra större för de som gick med vinterkläder andra dagen än för de som gick med vanliga kläder andra dagen. Vilket visar på att försökspersonerna blivit påverkade av vinterkläderna och därför gått långsammare. Mätningarna av syreupptagningsförmågan hos försökspersonerna gav varierande resultat, mycket beroende på kön och om de hade vinterkläder på sig eller inte. Kvinnornas utnyttjande grad ökade från 70-85 % till 73-90 % av sin maximala syreförbrukning när de var iklädda vinterkläder. Jämfört med männens utnyttjande grad som sjönk från 63-85 % till 61-77 % vid användandet av vinterkläder. Försökspersonerna var nära sin maximala syreförbrukning, VO2,max, vilket tyder på att de inte skulle klara av att hålla samma tempo i en längre trappa. Männen skulle kunna hålla samma tempo i cirka 15 minuter medan kvinnorna som ligger på 90 % av sin kapacitet enbart skulle kunna hålla samma hastighet i cirka 5 minuter. Vilket är ett ytterligare tecken på att hastigheten i BBRAD är för hög i långa trappor.

Anotation: Špidlová, Z.: Clothing as a means for self-identification and self-representation and possible didactic applications of the theme in art education. [Diploma thesis] Prague, 2013 - Charles University in Prague, Faculty of Education, Art education, 224 p. (Attachements: Diary and file documenting the art part of diploma thesis) This thesis examines the phenomenon of clothing, its semiotic function in the context of postmodern society and social aspects with emphasis on identification with a particular social group. The research brings knowledge about two groups, their clothing and social contexts. The groups are the costume culture of the Alto Minho in Portugal and the goth subculture. The results of the research are directly connected to the art part, the output of which is a clothing model combining elements of both of these groups. Didactic section presents findings on the diversity of interpretation of students from the seventh grade of basic school and the second year of middle school when dealing with the topic of identity and subculture applied on clothing. Key words: clothes, identity, self-presentation, self-identification, subculture, materials creation, postmodern society, art education

Title: Impact textile membranes on the dynamics of changes physiological indicators of workload Goals: Compare measurements of clothing technical parameters and laboratory measurement workload in this outfit. Describe and explain the relationship between the results of the technical and functional measurements and physiological issues associated with the use of different textile membranes during a workout. Method: Laboratory quantitative measurement of selected physiological parameters, clothings technical parameters, skin temperature and subjective perception of thermophysiological comfort. Subsequent comparative analysis of measurement results. Key words: clothes, textile membranes, workload, oxygen consuption (VO2), thermophysiological comfort, sweat, clothing physiology

El presente trabajo fue realizado con el propósito de analizar el impacto de las NIIF para las PYMES en la toma de decisiones financieras en las empresas del sector textil de confecciones de ropa en el distrito de la Victoria. Además, dentro de la investigación se busca que las pequeñas y medianas empresas conozcan como tomar decisiones de manera acertada, con respecto a la adopción de las NIIF para las PYMES. Para el desarrollo de esta investigación se ha tomado en cuenta las normas internacionales de información financieras para las pequeñas y medianas empresas y las principales ratios que se utilizan para una acertada toma de decisiones; además, se explica la importancia de las pequeñas y medianas empresas en nuestro país. Por otro lado, el caso práctico se basó en la empresa Eficaz Blue Trading E.I.R.L, la cual adoptará las NIIF para las Pymes aplicando la Sección 13: Inventario y Sección 17: Propiedad, Planta y Equipo. Para ello, se utilizó los parámetros que deben considerarse para adoptar por primera vez las NIIF para las Pymes. Con el caso práctico se pretende demostrar que adoptar la norma internacional genera que los estados financieros sean sólidos y muestren un correcto valor que permita a los gerentes analizar la información y puedan tomar decisiones financieras acertadas. Por último, se busca que se las NIIF para las PYMES influyan positivamente en la toma de decisiones financieras en empresas del sector textil de confecciones de ropa en el distrito de la Victoria. / The present work was realized by the intention of analyzing the impact of the NIIF for the SMES in the capture of financial decisions in the companies of the textile sector of confections of clothes in the district of La Victoria. In addition, inside the investigation there is looked that the small and medium companies know like to take decisions of a guessed right way, with regard to the adoption of the NIIF for the SMES. For the development of this investigation the international procedure of information have been born in mind financiers for the small and medium companies and principal ratios that are in use for a guessed right capture of decisions; in addition, is explained the importance of the small and medium companies in our country. On the other hand, the practical case based on the Effective company Blue Trading E.I.R.L, which will adopt the NIIF for the SMEs applying the Section 13: Inventory and Section 17: Property, Plant and Equipment. For it, one used the parameters that they must be considered to be to adopt for the first time the NIIF for the SMEs. With the practical case one tries to demonstrate that to adopt the international norm generates that the financial statements are solid and show a correct value that allows to the managers to analyze the information and to could take financial guessed right decisions. Finally, there is looked that the NIIF for the SMES influence positively the capture of financial decisions companies of the textile sector of confections of clothes the district of La Victoria. / Tesis

Como a prática de uso dos uniformes escolares se configurou nas escolas públicas do estado de São Paulo entre os anos de 1950 a 1970? Este trabalho procura contribuir para a compreensão do modo pelo qual os uniformes escolares foram retratados pela imprensa educacional, seja mediante artigos assinados por autores prestigiados pelo campo, seja pelas propagandas que intercalavam os textos em questão. Pretende ainda examinar a percepção dos alunos acerca dos uniformes escolares por meio do estudo do jornal escolar e as prescrições relacionadas ao uso deste vestuário nos manuais pedagógicos. Além disso, a legislação educacional vigente no período estudado complementa a análise. O período estudado compreende a época de expansão da escola pública no estado de São Paulo, quando as oportunidades de educação pública passaram a estender-se a significativas parcelas da população que antes estavam à margem deste processo. Busca-se com esta pesquisa identificar como a obrigatoriedade material de uso dos uniformes acompanhou a oferta de vagas à população mais carente de recursos. Ainda foi necessário buscar compreender um quadro geral acerca da história da educação no Brasil no período, de modo a conhecer os eventos que marcaram a história nacional e acabaram por influenciar as políticas públicas educacionais. O trabalho está dividido em três partes: a primeira parte é composta pela \"Apresentação\", na qual são descritos os objetivos da investigação e por um primeiro capítulo intitulado \"Modos de Produção do Trabalho\", em que são apresentadas as fontes consultadas e a forma como as mesmas foram exploradas e incorporadas ao estudo. A segunda parte traz considerações acerca da história da educação e elementos acerca da história do vestuário, constituindo o capítulo II. A terceira parte apresenta a análise do uniforme escolar enquanto objeto de estudo histórico a partir do exame das fontes e é constituída por quatro capítulos: III \"Decentemente trajados e com asseio\"; IV \"Criança Calçada, Criança Sadia!\"; V \"A professora não deve ir para a aula nem vestida de \'andar em casa\', nem como se fosse para uma festa\"; VI \"Deveres do bom aluno: capricho, ordem e limpeza\"; e um esforço de síntese busca retomar os principais elementos explicativos a que se chegou, sob a forma de \"Considerações finais\". / As the practical one of use of the pertaining to school uniforms if configured in the public schools of the state of São Paulo enters the years of 1950 the 1970? This work looks for to contribute for the understanding in the way by which the pertaining to school uniforms had been portraied by the educational press, either by means of articles signed for authors sanctioned for the field, either for the propagandas that intercalated the texts in question. It still intends to examine the perception of the pupils concerning the pertaining to school uniforms by means of the study of the pertaining to school periodical and the lapsings related to the use of this clothes in pedagogical manuals. Moreover, the effective educational legislation in the studied period complements the analysis. The studied period understands the time of expansion of the public school in the state of São Paulo, when the chances of public education had started to extend significant parcels to it of the population that before were to the edge of this process. One searchs with this research to identify as the material obligatoriness of use of the uniforms folloied offers of vacant the population most devoid of resources. Still it was necessary to search to understand a general picture concerning the history of the education in Brazil in the period, in order to know the events that had marked national history and had finished for influencing educational the public politics. The work is divided in three parts: the first part is composed for the \"Presentation\", in which the objectives of the inquiry are described and for a first intitled chapter \"Ways of Production of the Work\", where the consulted sources and the form are presented as the same ones had been explored and incorporated to the study. The second part brings reflections concerning history of the education and elements concerning the history of clothes, constituting chapter II. The third part presents the analysis of the pertaining to school uniform while object of historical study from the examination of the sources and is constituted by four chapters: III \"Decentemente trajados e com asseio\"; IV \"Criança Calçada, Criança Sadia!\"; V \"A professora não deve ir para a aula nem vestida de \'andar em casa\', nem como se fosse para uma festa\"; VI \"Deveres do bom aluno: capricho, ordem e limpeza\"; e a synthesis effort searchs to retake the main clarifying elements the one that if arrived, under the form of \"Considerações finais\".

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-28T20:39:55Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Cristiane Mesquita.pdf: 9662492 bytes, checksum: 5a5cdfa20766c39ad3f7e69043d11b1c (MD5) Previous issue date: 2008-12-05 / Itaú Cultural / Inspired by the rituals of the conceptual character Jardelina Da Silva, this thesis aims to delineate cuts on the lines of forces that crosses on vestiments flows and the appearance composition in different perspectives, approaches and conceptual boardings. Taking the zigzag movement as a research method and a writing strategy, our journey initiates by the documentary Jardelina da Silva, me myself. In this text, we will be in her company in the first part, covering concepts as well as schizo, ressonating body, line of flight, becoming, event, territory and style. We proceed in the second part examining other cuts for the concept of style, emphasising it as the strongest operator for the fashion machine, main scenario of the vestiments flows market in connection with the body. In this context, we punctuate the body as a subjective constitution locus and investigate the style under diferent aspects. The third part explores ways of relation and production of senses in the field of encounters constituted by dressing. Finally, we present as a way out zigzag movements, some works selected in the art field, crossing the questions delineated and covered in this thesis. All the journey is pervaded by the theories of the philosopher Gilles Deleuze and the psychoanalyst Felix Guattari s and by other voices, as well as Suely Rolnik, Peter Pál Pelbart, Luis Orlandi, Michel Foucault, Jurandir Freire Costa, Maurizio Lazzarato, Patrice Bollon, Denise Bernuzzi de Sant' Anna, Rosane Preciosa and Peter Stallybrass, among others / A partir de um percurso inspirado pelos rituais da personagem conceitual Jardelina da Silva, esta tese procura delinear recortes para as linhas de força que permeiam os fluxos vestimentares e à composição da aparência em diferentes perspectivas, abordagens e planos conceituais. Tomando a forma ziguezague como método de pesquisa e estratégia de escrita, nosso trajeto é iniciado pelo documentário Jardelina da Silva, eu mesma. Na escrita, seguimos com ela pela primeira parte, percorrendo conceitos assim como esquizo, corpo vibrátil, linha de fuga, devir, acontecimento, território e estilo. Na seqüência, examinamos outros recortes para o conceito de estilo, enfatizando-o como mais forte operador do funcionamento da máquina moda, principal cenário do mercado dos fluxos vestimentares em conexão com o corpo. Nesse contexto, pontuamos o corpo como locus da constituição subjetiva e investigamos o estilo sob diversas perspectivas. A terceira parte explora modos de relação e produção de sentido no campo de encontros constituído pelo vestir. Por fim, apresentamos como ziguezague de saída, trabalhos coletados no campo da arte que atravessam as questões delineadas e percorridas na tese. Todo o trajeto é permeado pelo pensamento do filósofo Gilles Deleuze e do psicanalista Felix Guattari e pontuado por outras vozes, assim como as de Suely Rolnik, Peter Pál Pelbart, Luis Orlandi, Michel Foucault, Jurandir Freire Costa, Maurizio Lazzarato, Patrice Bollon, Denise Bernuzzi de Sant Anna, Rosane Preciosa e Peter Stallybrass, entre outros

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-28T20:40:07Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Thais Graciotti Pontes.pdf: 3234582 bytes, checksum: dc183c0d2211fc51e906dbdac8af680b (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009-06-26 / Prover without mirrors, without curtains and with breath for indifferences. Exchanges not always are symmetrical, sometimes it is not received of turn what happens, being completely disarranged in the nakedness of the solitude. The exchange can be a substitution by other ways, even a tear, of those resonant ones and strident ones, of tight clothes, which is the inadequacy itself in the body itself. Initiated like artistic proposal into 2004, persons are invited in order that of exchanging trying on the clothes like device for the hurt multiples. Desire of thinking the power of dressing other through a sensitive styling where skin, memory, cloth, clothes cross the bodies and move relations in play. Here, exchanging if it brings near of the interchange, of the exchange, of the change, of the inversion, of the chaotic one. The idea is to activate perceptions when the clothes rethought like way of expression and experimentation, impregnating and mixing different universes, in the search of to be reinvented to you, to other and to the world, in an infinite conversation (odds and ends blanchotianos). To exchange: verb-concept. Methodology of the senses along this reading. The term itself exchanges with you himself on account of the chance, of the events along the time, imposing other ways for the exchange itself. Play of senses in constant construction. To rehearse movements, since it sways there will be necessary resulting from the exchange. Written far from being a dry land, spread the glance out while undoing accomodations in order that another place to provoke the appearance to the horizon. To vanish in words, sensations proliferate. To meet again in the experimental reading, you, the exchange / Provador sem espelhos, sem cortinas e com fôlego para desapegos. Trocas nem sempre são simétricas, às vezes não se recebe de volta o que se dá, ficando completamente desconcertado na nudez da solidão. A troca pode ser uma substituição por outros caminhos, até mesmo um rasgo, daqueles sonoros e estridentes, de roupa apertada, que é a própria inadequação no próprio corpo. Iniciado como proposta artística em 2004, pessoas são convidadas para experimentar a roupa como dispositivo para os múltiplos sentidos do trocar. Desejo de pensar o poder do vestir o outro através de um styling sensível onde pele, memória, tecido, roupa atravessam os corpos e movem relações em jogo. Aqui, o trocar se aproxima do intercâmbio, da permuta, da mudança, da inversão, do caótico. A idéia é ativar percepções ao repensar a roupa como meio de expressão e experimentação, impregnando e misturando diferentes universos, na busca do reinventar-se a si, ao outro e ao mundo, numa conversa infinita (retalhos blanchotianos). Trocar: verbo-conceito. Metodologia dos sentidos ao longo dessa leitura. O próprio termo troca consigo mesmo por conta do acaso, dos acontecimentos ao longo do tempo, impondo outros caminhos para a própria troca. Jogo de sentidos em constante construção. Ensaiar movimentos, pois ginga será necessária para o decorrer da troca. Escrita longe de ser terra firme, estende o olhar ao desfazer acomodações para provocar o surgimento de um outro lugar ao horizonte. Desfazer-se em palavras, proliferar sensações. Reencontrar na leitura experimental, você, a troca

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T18:16:53Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Claudia Maria Busato.pdf: 3089702 bytes, checksum: e8318bf2790148279cc70d4d8bc94477 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2008-03-28 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / This inquiry studies urban communication and its devices of attention. The objects of this investigation are the fashion images printed in banners, billboards, images in buildings and interiors of shopping centers. The current metropolises show off the fact that they have being organized around the production and the seduction for almost two hundred years. In them, it is possible to check that is built a practice of appearances beside the history of the persons and objects. Paradoxically, the metropolises practice ways of removal, at the same time that social movements produce forms of closeness. In that habitat, it was developed the sewing industry and next to it, a demanding and segmented public moved by the novelty. It is also in the same stage, played by beauty and consumption, that the advertisement image explores its appeal to an immediate one. So, contemporary cities so much produce fast-fashion products as much social types here called image-costumer. It is necessary to emphasize that to be delighted before images, depends on the personal capacity of the individual in managing the received data. In this context, different tendencies of reception are shown: some accept in the full text the pretentious images and others seize only the languages proposed by the media. The hypothesis of this inquiry proposes that fashion images fill out individual deficit through the reconfiguration of their symbolic elements. The first symbol of the individual it is the images that he stores in his memory. Since he was born, the individual is enclosed by stimuli, particularly visual stimuli. These symbols that support the individual nowadays they are also explored by advertisement market. In order to understand the dynamic of these events the following objectives are put: 1. to identify in what ways the observer appropriates the fashion images; 2. to investigate the communicative potential of fashion billboard. The connecting thread of this inquiry goes through the reflections of Dietmar Kamper who discusses the technical images; Harry Pross who treats the pragmatic results of the symbolic orders; Baudrillard and Milton Santos, they analyse the mediation of the objects in urban space; Walter Benjamin and George Simmel, they point out the reflexes of urban life on the individuals. There are two the axles of this inquiry, a vertical, which means, a bibliographical lifting and, the other one, horizontal reached through field work. At both, it is valued in which measure they bring near the images of surface of those primary ones filed by the individual in his memory. The images in fashion billboards are objects of specified glances and they contain in its structure an efficient device of attention: the face. In that context, the observer and the image are face to face but the binomial face-clothes, in the billboards, reveals a mechanism of variation. Because in making seeming, simulating, by the use of the garment becomes a way for going out from the boredom, the changing, when the potential is going up in value of transforming stimuli. The communicative strength of the binomial face-clothes rests in the capacity of the individual of turning elements of the memory into realizable objectives. Since, contemporary individual is enclosed of objects and feelings to build a visual identity / Esta pesquisa estuda a comunicação urbana e seus dispositivos de atenção. São o objeto desta investigação as imagens da moda estampadas em banners, outdoors, imagens em edifícios e interiores de shoppings. As metrópoles atuais herdam o fato de se organizarem em torno da produção e da sedução há quase duzentos anos. Nelas é possível verificar que ao lado da história dos corpos e dos objetos constrói-se uma prática das aparências. Paradoxais, elas promovem o distanciamento, mas também movimentações sociais que propiciam formas de vinculação. Nesse habitat se desenvolve a indústria da costura e junto dela um público exigente, segmentado e movido pela novidade. É também nesse palco, encenado pela beleza e o consumo, que a imagem publicitária explora seu caráter de apelo ao imediato. Assim, as cidades contemporâneas tanto geram produtos fast fashion quanto tipos sociais aqui denominados de consumidores-imagem . Deve-se ressaltar que extasiar-se diante de imagens depende da capacidade do indivíduo de administrar as informações recebidas. Neste contexto revelam-se tendências distintas de recepção, onde uns aceitam na integra as imagens exibidas e outros apenas se apropriam das linguagens propostas pela mídia. A hipótese desta pesquisa propõe que as imagens da moda preenchem o déficit do indivíduo por meio da reconfiguração de seus elementos simbólicos. O primeiro símbolo do indivíduo são as imagens que ele provisiona na memória. Esses símbolos que sustentam o homem hoje são potencializados pelo mercado publicitário. Para compreensão desses eventos colocam-se os seguintes objetivos: 1. Identificar de que forma o observador se apropria das imagens da moda; 2. Investigar o potencial comunicativo do outdoor de moda. Esta pesquisa percorre as reflexões de Dietmar Kamper que discute as imagens técnicas; Harry Pross que trata dos resultados pragmáticos das ordens simbólicas, Baudrillard e Milton Santos que analisam a mediação dos objetos no espaço urbano, Walter Benjamin e George Simmel que apontam os reflexos da vida urbana sobre os indivíduos; são dois os eixos desta pesquisa, um vertical mediante levantamento bibliográfico e outro horizontal alcançado por meio de pesquisa de campo. Em ambos avalia-se em que medida se aproximam as imagens de superfície daquelas primárias arquivadas pelo indivíduo na memória. As imagens nos outdoors de moda são objetos de olhares particularizados e contêm na sua estrutura imagética um dispositivo eficaz de atenção: o rosto. Nessa troca observador e imagem ficam frente a frente. O binômio rosto-roupa nos outdoors revelase um mecanismo de variação, pois o fazer parecer, o simular, pela vestimenta se mostra uma forma de sair do tédio, de mudar, valorizando-se o potencial do indivíduo de transformar estímulos. Sua força comunicativa repousa na capacidade do indivíduo de transformar elementos da memória em objetivos realizáveis. Desse modo, esta pesquisa conclui que o indivíduo contemporâneo cerca-se de objetos e sentidos para construir uma identidade visual personalizada

Como a prática de uso dos uniformes escolares se configurou nas escolas públicas do estado de São Paulo entre os anos de 1950 a 1970? Este trabalho procura contribuir para a compreensão do modo pelo qual os uniformes escolares foram retratados pela imprensa educacional, seja mediante artigos assinados por autores prestigiados pelo campo, seja pelas propagandas que intercalavam os textos em questão. Pretende ainda examinar a percepção dos alunos acerca dos uniformes escolares por meio do estudo do jornal escolar e as prescrições relacionadas ao uso deste vestuário nos manuais pedagógicos. Além disso, a legislação educacional vigente no período estudado complementa a análise. O período estudado compreende a época de expansão da escola pública no estado de São Paulo, quando as oportunidades de educação pública passaram a estender-se a significativas parcelas da população que antes estavam à margem deste processo. Busca-se com esta pesquisa identificar como a obrigatoriedade material de uso dos uniformes acompanhou a oferta de vagas à população mais carente de recursos. Ainda foi necessário buscar compreender um quadro geral acerca da história da educação no Brasil no período, de modo a conhecer os eventos que marcaram a história nacional e acabaram por influenciar as políticas públicas educacionais. O trabalho está dividido em três partes: a primeira parte é composta pela \"Apresentação\", na qual são descritos os objetivos da investigação e por um primeiro capítulo intitulado \"Modos de Produção do Trabalho\", em que são apresentadas as fontes consultadas e a forma como as mesmas foram exploradas e incorporadas ao estudo. A segunda parte traz considerações acerca da história da educação e elementos acerca da história do vestuário, constituindo o capítulo II. A terceira parte apresenta a análise do uniforme escolar enquanto objeto de estudo histórico a partir do exame das fontes e é constituída por quatro capítulos: III \"Decentemente trajados e com asseio\"; IV \"Criança Calçada, Criança Sadia!\"; V \"A professora não deve ir para a aula nem vestida de \'andar em casa\', nem como se fosse para uma festa\"; VI \"Deveres do bom aluno: capricho, ordem e limpeza\"; e um esforço de síntese busca retomar os principais elementos explicativos a que se chegou, sob a forma de \"Considerações finais\". / As the practical one of use of the pertaining to school uniforms if configured in the public schools of the state of São Paulo enters the years of 1950 the 1970? This work looks for to contribute for the understanding in the way by which the pertaining to school uniforms had been portraied by the educational press, either by means of articles signed for authors sanctioned for the field, either for the propagandas that intercalated the texts in question. It still intends to examine the perception of the pupils concerning the pertaining to school uniforms by means of the study of the pertaining to school periodical and the lapsings related to the use of this clothes in pedagogical manuals. Moreover, the effective educational legislation in the studied period complements the analysis. The studied period understands the time of expansion of the public school in the state of São Paulo, when the chances of public education had started to extend significant parcels to it of the population that before were to the edge of this process. One searchs with this research to identify as the material obligatoriness of use of the uniforms folloied offers of vacant the population most devoid of resources. Still it was necessary to search to understand a general picture concerning the history of the education in Brazil in the period, in order to know the events that had marked national history and had finished for influencing educational the public politics. The work is divided in three parts: the first part is composed for the \"Presentation\", in which the objectives of the inquiry are described and for a first intitled chapter \"Ways of Production of the Work\", where the consulted sources and the form are presented as the same ones had been explored and incorporated to the study. The second part brings reflections concerning history of the education and elements concerning the history of clothes, constituting chapter II. The third part presents the analysis of the pertaining to school uniform while object of historical study from the examination of the sources and is constituted by four chapters: III \"Decentemente trajados e com asseio\"; IV \"Criança Calçada, Criança Sadia!\"; V \"A professora não deve ir para a aula nem vestida de \'andar em casa\', nem como se fosse para uma festa\"; VI \"Deveres do bom aluno: capricho, ordem e limpeza\"; e a synthesis effort searchs to retake the main clarifying elements the one that if arrived, under the form of \"Considerações finais\".