The purpose of this master’s thesis was to investigate how museum stores are governed, with a focus on museum stores situated in museums in Stockholm and on museums stores which are part of a government agency. The purpose was also to investigate the relationship between the museum and the consumption in the museum store in general.  The thesis shows that museum stores which are part of a government agency are governed by their appropriation directions, including the direction that the museum stores must be fully financed. However, the museum stores are also influenced by guidelines that have not been written down, expectations from the museum and from museum patrons. Other factors not within the control of the museum were also of importance, and could limit the choices available for the museum store managers as well as be a source of inspiration. The result also shows that the museum store and the consumption it’s associated with, is seen as either a threat, a necessity or a possibility: The museum store is often viewed as being at odds with the main role of museums in general, while also being considered a necessity, helping the museum to meet the patron’s expectations. In some cases the museum could benefit from the museum store, due to the stores’ possibility of improving upon the museum visit, or making a profit usable in other museum activities. The source material was gathered from the websites of international and national organisations within the museum field. Material was also gathered during interviews with museum store managers in Stockholm. The theory used was cultural economics and consumption studies. The method for this essay was interviews, minor field studies, linguistic analysis. The focus of this essay was how the museum store is governed. The essay does not, for example, research how the museum visitors or museum patrons experienced the shop. This is a two years master’s thesis in Museum and Cultural Heritage Studies

O Brasil tem experimentado, nos últimos anos, o aumento no consumo de vestuário. A ascensão de um grande contingente de pessoas a um determinado patamar de consumo trouxe uma série de oportunidades para a indústria têxtil nacional. Não apenas o comércio varejista de roupas se sofisticou como também a cadeia têxtil-vestuário precisou se adaptar a uma nova realidade: um modelo de produção que tem como base a velocidade e o preço. Este trabalho, a partir de uma análise que engloba os processos produtivos e a venda de vestuário na capital paulista, busca explicar de que maneira o varejo legitima seu produto enquanto moda. Assim, elencamos três fatores essenciais para a análise de nosso objeto, a moda varejista: i) como nasceu e se desenvolveu o modelo de varejo existente até hoje. Nesta etapa abordamos a história de três magazines extremamente relevantes para história do varejo da cidade e mesmo do país Casa Alemã, Mappin e Mesbla - além de dois bairros fundamentais para a formação da indústria têxtil de São Paulo o Brás e o Bom Retiro. ii) o modo como a cadeia têxtil-vestuário paulistana adaptou seus meios de produção para acompanhar as mudanças do mercado. Aqui, analisamos dados quantitativos oriundos da RAIS além de material bibliográfico sobre o tema e, iii) como operam os atores envolvidos na fabricação e na venda da moda varejista. Para isso, abordamos dois representantes de funções centrais na produção de moda varejista, a produção e a distribuição: uma confecção, a R Confecções e um magazine, a saber, a Riachuelo. Nossa pesquisa é balizada pelo referencial teórico de Patrik Aspers, pesquisador suíço cujo foco de investigação é o mercado de moda varejista europeu. O instrumental apresentado por este autor nos permite compreender como se formam e se organizam os mercados de moda varejista. / In the last years, Brazil has experienced an increase in the clothing consumption. The entrance of a large number of people into a certain consumption level brought a series of opportunities to the domestic textile industry. Not only the retail clothing market became more sophisticated but the textile-clothing chain had to adapt to the new reality: a production model based on speed and price. This paper, from the analysis that encompasses productive processes and the garment retail sector in the city of São Paulo, tries to explain how retail legitimizes its product as fashion. Therefore, we listed three essential factors to the analysis of our subject, the retail fashion: i) how did the existing retail model come to life and develop. At this stage, we take the history of three department stores extremely important to the history of retail in the city and even in the country: Casa Alemã, Mappin, and Mesbla. We also included two neighborhoods that were the building blocks of the textile industry in São Paulo Brás and Bom Retiro. ii) how the textile-clothing chain of São Paulo has adapted its production means to keep up with the market changes. Here we analyze quantitative data from RAIS and the material about this subject found in the literature, iii) how the manufacturing and sales stakeholders operate in the retail fashion. We interviewed two representatives of production and distribution core functions in retail fashion: one apparel manufacturer - R Confecções and one department store, Riachuelo. This research follows Patrik Aspers theoretical referential, a Swiss researcher whose investigation focus is the European retail fashion market. The tools presented by this author allows us to understand how retail fashion markets are created and organized.

En los últimos años han ido surgiendo nuevas tecnologías y facilidades para las empresas en medios digitales. El consumidor es altamente exigente y bastante informado. Las empresas no se limitan a la venta de productos en medios tradicionales, sino que han ido diversificando sus estrategias a medios digitales para adaptarse a las necesidades de los consumidores. De acuerdo a lo mencionado, la presente investigación busca identificar y explicar cuáles son las acciones de las redes sociales que influyen en el proceso de compra del millennial en la industria textil de tiendas por departamento en Lima Metropolitana. Para la presente investigación se ha utilizado información de fuentes secundarias actualizadas relacionadas a tiendas por departamento, industria textil, proceso de compra del consumidor, perfil de los millennials, situación de las redes sociales a nivel global y nacional. Asimismo, se obtuvo información cualitativa a través de entrevistas a profundidad, entrevistas a expertos en industria textil y redes sociales. De la misma manera se realizaron entrevistas personales a consumidores con el perfil apto para obtener información relevante para la investigación. Por otro lado, se obtuvo información cuantitativa por medio de encuestas realizadas a consumidores de la zona 7 de Lima Metropolitana con la finalidad de obtener y conocer las acciones más importantes de las redes sociales que influyen en el proceso de compra. Estos últimos datos fueron analizados con procedimientos estadísticos. Finalmente , se concluyó que las acciones de redes sociales que influyen en el proceso de compra de de un millennial son la información de descuentos, precios bajos, tendencias en moda y publicidad mostrada en estas plataformas. / In recent years new technologies and facilities for companies in digital media have been emerging. The consumer is highly demanding and quite informed. Companies are not limited to the sale of products in traditional media, but rather they have diversified their strategies to digital media to adapt to the needs of consumers. According to the aforementioned, the present research seeks to identify and explain what are the actions of the social networks that influence the millennial purchasing process in the textile industry of department stores in Metropolitan Lima. For the present investigation, information from updated secondary sources has been used, related to department stores, the textile industry, the consumer purchasing process, the millennials profile,the social networks situation in global and national level. Likewise, qualitative information was obtained through in-depth interviews, experts interviews in the textile industry and social networks. In the same way, personal interviews were conducted with consumers with the appropriate profile to obtain relevant information for the investigation. On the other hand, quantitative information was obtained through surveys of consumers in zone 7 of Metropolitan Lima in order to obtain and know the most important actions of social networks that influence the purchasing process. These last data were analyzed with statistical procedures. Finally, it was concluded that the social network actions that influence the purchasing process of a millennial are discount information, low prices, fashion trends and advertising displayed on these platforms. / Tesis

Esta tesis es un estudio cualitativo con diseño investigación-acción cuya finalidad es analizar de qué manera el aprendizaje basado en el modelo 70:20:10, afianza la resiliencia en el área comercial retail de Manpower-Entel, en tiempos de coyuntura Covid-19. La muestra del estudio estuvo conformada por 42 colaboradores del área comercial. Los resultados de la investigación evidencian que el modelo 70:20:10 logra afianzar la resiliencia en dicha muestra ya que, a través de las tres fases del modelo que son aprendizaje formal (10), aprendizaje social (20) y aprendizaje experiencial (70), se logra enseñar conocimientos sobre resiliencia (aprendizaje formal), que luego son discutidos en grupo y traducidos en iniciativas (aprendizaje social) que finalmente son ejecutadas vivencialmente en un período de tiempo determinado (aprendizaje experiencial) y que a su vez logran reforzar la resiliencia a nivel personal y de equipo. Si bien el modelo se aplicó al área comercial retail de Manpower-Entel, se puede ampliar la propuesta para ser aplicada a distintos entornos organizacionales con la finalidad de contribuir con la resiliencia en diversas instituciones y analizar si el impacto es similar o varía. / This thesis is a qualitative study with an action-research design, the purpose of which is to analyze how learning based on the 70:20:10 model strengthens resilience in the commercial retail area of Manpower-Entel during the COVID-19 situation. The study sample included 42 employees from the commercial area. The research results show that the 70:20:10 model manages to strengthen resilience through the three phases of the model, which are formal learning (10), social learning (20) and experiential learning (70 ). It is possible to teach knowledge about resilience (formal learning), which is then discussed in groups and turned into initiatives (social learning) that are finally executed experientially in a given period of time (experiential learning). These, in turn, manage to strengthen resilience at a personal and team level. Although the model was applied to the commercial area of a service company, the proposal can be extended to be applied to different organizational environments in order to contribute to resilience in different institutions and analyze whether the impact is similar or not. / Trabajo de investigación

Omnichannel retailers have received considerable attention from academics and professionals in recent years; however, its impacts on purchase intention and the results of the relationships between its variables are still unclear. Therefore, the objective of this study is to analyze the relationship of three components of the consumer's omnichannel shopping experience, such as integration, consistency and transparency, in respectant of purchase intention. The methodology of the study will be quantitative and the data will be collected through an online survey with 400 usable responses. The findings will indicate whether the components mentioned previously have a direct and significant impact on purchase intention. Finally, these findings will provide important scopes for theoretical discussions of future academics and research works. / Omnichannel retailers have received considerable attention from academics and professionals in recent years; however, its impacts on purchase intention and the results of the relationships between its variables are still unclear. Therefore, the objective of this study is to analyze the relationship of three components of the consumer's omnichannel shopping experience, such as integration, consistency and transparency, in respectant of purchase intention. The methodology of the study will be quantitative and the data will be collected through an online survey with 400 usable responses. The findings will indicate whether the components mentioned previously have a direct and significant impact on purchase intention. Finally, these findings will provide important scopes for theoretical discussions of future academics and research works. / Trabajo de investigación

El presente trabajo de investigación fue desarrollado con la finalidad de identificar y encontrar la relación que pueden tener las dimensiones de la calidad de servicio online en la intención de compra en tiendas por departamento como Ripley, Saga Falabella, en otros, en Lima Metropolitana. Se busca responder al problema de investigación planteado, donde según la teoría la calidad de servicio online influye y tiene una relación positiva con la intención de compra online, pero los peruanos seguimos comprando aún cuando se ha tenido o escuchado de una mala experiencia previa. Para poder desarrollar el presente estudio, se implementó una metodología mixta que, con el empleo de entrevistas a profundidad, focus group y encuestas, permite obtener una perspectiva más amplia y profunda del fenómeno en estudio, produciendo datos con más información y más variados. Dicha metodología implicará, además, un conjunto de procesos de recolección, un análisis de regresión lineal múltiple para conocer la relación entre las variables planteadas y la vinculación de datos cuantitativos y cualitativos en un mismo estudio. El resultado de esta investigación muestra que, efectivamente existe una relación positiva entre las variables dependientes, la fiabilidad y seguridad como dimensiones de la calidad de servicio online, y la variable independiente que es la intención de compra online. Los principales hallazgos demuestran que, si bien las dimensiones planteadas de la calidad de servicio online tienen una relación positiva en la intención de compra online, existen otras dimensiones que pueden influenciar aún más en dicha intención. Además, aún cuando la fiabilidad se presentaba como la variable más decisiva según la teoría y el estudio cualitativo, el resultado cuantitativo de las 240 encuestas efectuadas evidenció a la seguridad como la variable con mayor relación en la intención de compra online. Como recomendación para las futuras investigaciones, con respecto a los modelos de investigación y a las dimensiones o variables seleccionadas para el presente trabajo de investigación, se propone incorporar y ampliar nuevas variables como la capacidad de respuesta o cumplimiento, personalización y empatía o servicio al cliente, las cuales son dimensiones que se repiten en los nuevos modelos de medición de la calidad de servicio online. / This research work was developed in order to identify and find the relationship that the dimensions of service quality in online may have in the intention of purchasing in retails such as Ripley, Saga Falabella, and others, in Lima Metropolitana. It seeks to respond to the research problem posed, where according to theory the quality of online service influences and has a positive relation with the online purchase intention, but the Peruvians continue to buy even when they have had or heard of a previous bad experience. In order to carry out the present study, a mixed methodology was implemented that, using in-depth interviews, focus groups and surveys, allows obtaining a broader and deeper perspective of the phenomenon under study, producing data with more variety and more information. Said methodology will also involve a set of collection processes, a multiple linear regression analysis to determine the relation between the variables proposed and the linking of quantitative and qualitative data in the same study. The results of this research show that there is, indeed, a positive relation between the dependent variables, reliability and security as dimensions of the online service quality, and the independent variable that is the online purchase intention. The main findings demonstrate that, although the dimensions of online service quality have a positive relation in the online purchase intention, there are other dimensions that may influence this intention even more. Furthermore, even when reliability was presented as the most decisive variable according to the theory and the qualitative study, the quantitative result of the 240 surveys carried out showed security as the variable with the highest relation in online purchase intention of clothes and accessories in retails. As a recommendation for future research, with respect to the research models and the dimensions or variables selected for this research, it is proposed to incorporate and expand new variables such as responsiveness or compliance, personalization and empathy or customer service, which are dimensions that repeated in the new online service quality measurement models. / Tesis

published_or_final_version / Business Administration / Master / Master of Business Administration

Cette étude porte sur la culture de travail des femmes qui ont été à l’emploi du grand magasin Dupuis Frères de Montréal entre 1920 et 1960. Nous nous intéressons aux particularités du travail salarié féminin dans le domaine de la vente au détail au Québec, mais aussi à la nature et à l’évolution de cette culture de travail de même qu’à ses liens avec les changements qui surviennent à l’époque dans la construction des nouvelles normes de la féminité respectable. D’une part, notre but est de montrer que pour les travailleuses de Dupuis, leur emploi leur permet de gagner leur vie certes, mais aussi de l’agrémenter, de se divertir au moyen de loisirs organisés par l’entreprise et de créer des liens entre elles. À travers la culture de travail qu’elles y développent, ces femmes se créent une identité particulière. Nous soulignons aussi que Dupuis Frères, dans un esprit paternaliste, encadre de près ses employées et exploite leur culture de travail afin de s’assurer de leur loyauté et de maintenir sa bonne réputation auprès de l’opinion publique. D’autre part, nous cherchons à prouver que même si la culture des femmes à l’emploi de Dupuis au cours de cette période est largement influencée par la domesticité et l’idéologie des sphères séparées, caractéristiques de la féminité « traditionnelle » dominante, elle intègre néanmoins de plus en plus, surtout à partir de la Deuxième Guerre mondiale, de nouvelles dimensions plus « modernes » de la féminité qui ne remplacent pas l’idéal de la mère-ménagère, mais qui viennent plutôt s’y greffer et qui rendent, du coup, leur identité féminine plus complexe. / This study is about the work culture of the women who were employed by Dupuis Frères, a famous Montreal department store, between 1920 and 1960. We will focus on the features of this particular type of paid work, that is women’s work in retail in Quebec. We will also insist on the nature and evolution of that work culture and on the fact that it was influenced, during this period, by the transformations that occurred in the construction of new forms of respectable femininity. First, our goal is to show that these Dupuis Frères women employees didn’t work for the sole purpose of earning a living, but did also in order to live a more pleasant life, to entertain themselves by participating in leisure activities organized by their employer and to create new bonds among themselves. With this work culture that they developed, these women workers also created themselves a new particular identity. We also want to show that Dupuis Frères, with its paternalistic management, was controlling its employees and was exploiting their work culture to ensure the employees’ faith in them and maintain the company’s reputation. Second, we want to prove that even if the work culture of the women working at Dupuis Frères, during that period, was influenced by domesticity and the separate spheres ideology (features of the dominant « traditional » femininity), it was more and more incorporating, mostly from Second World War, new dimensions of a more « modern » femininity that were not replacing the mother-housewife ideal, but that rather were making their feminine identity more complex.

This dissertation investigates department stores as complex spatial and cultural buildings, in which values and ideas are expressed, negotiated, and produced. Situated in a cultural context commonly referred to as a society of consumption, where identity and social structures are worked out through consumption rather than production, the query turns to a specific act of consumption: that of shopping. More precisely, it investigates the role of space and spatial distribution in shopping. How space is distributed, arranged, or ordered allows for different possibilities in constructing categories from which the shoppers are to make a selection, and for how these categories can be related to one another, which informs the shoppers what belongs together, what is to be held apart, what is important, what is private, what is public, and what is of higher or lower status. It further supports, prevents, and promotes different routes and choices, giving different patterns of presence, publicity, privacy, purpose, etc. that not only affects the atmosphere of the spaces, but makes suggestions of what is found in them. These questions are investigated through a series of conceptual laboratories, each addressing the problem from different standpoints and focusing on different parts of the question: from how categories are constructed and given character, to how they form systems of values, how shoppers are trained in aesthetics of fashion, how relative degrees of presences are made use of, and how they appear influenced by spatial distribution. In this, the work shifts between qualitative and quantitative methods, each completing and evolving the other. It shows that to a remarkable degree, much of the emergent values and ideas can be understood through the filter of spatial configurations, and especially when treated as two systems: one of exposure and one of availability. As similar operations also affect patterns of movement and being, which enables them to also be related to publicity, privacy, and other social characters, the department stores can be understood as not only commercial spaces but as sites of negotiation of public culture. As such, both the analytic model and the more specific findings have important implications for architectural theory in general. / QC 20100803

Cette étude porte sur la culture de travail des femmes qui ont été à l’emploi du grand magasin Dupuis Frères de Montréal entre 1920 et 1960. Nous nous intéressons aux particularités du travail salarié féminin dans le domaine de la vente au détail au Québec, mais aussi à la nature et à l’évolution de cette culture de travail de même qu’à ses liens avec les changements qui surviennent à l’époque dans la construction des nouvelles normes de la féminité respectable. D’une part, notre but est de montrer que pour les travailleuses de Dupuis, leur emploi leur permet de gagner leur vie certes, mais aussi de l’agrémenter, de se divertir au moyen de loisirs organisés par l’entreprise et de créer des liens entre elles. À travers la culture de travail qu’elles y développent, ces femmes se créent une identité particulière. Nous soulignons aussi que Dupuis Frères, dans un esprit paternaliste, encadre de près ses employées et exploite leur culture de travail afin de s’assurer de leur loyauté et de maintenir sa bonne réputation auprès de l’opinion publique. D’autre part, nous cherchons à prouver que même si la culture des femmes à l’emploi de Dupuis au cours de cette période est largement influencée par la domesticité et l’idéologie des sphères séparées, caractéristiques de la féminité « traditionnelle » dominante, elle intègre néanmoins de plus en plus, surtout à partir de la Deuxième Guerre mondiale, de nouvelles dimensions plus « modernes » de la féminité qui ne remplacent pas l’idéal de la mère-ménagère, mais qui viennent plutôt s’y greffer et qui rendent, du coup, leur identité féminine plus complexe. / This study is about the work culture of the women who were employed by Dupuis Frères, a famous Montreal department store, between 1920 and 1960. We will focus on the features of this particular type of paid work, that is women’s work in retail in Quebec. We will also insist on the nature and evolution of that work culture and on the fact that it was influenced, during this period, by the transformations that occurred in the construction of new forms of respectable femininity. First, our goal is to show that these Dupuis Frères women employees didn’t work for the sole purpose of earning a living, but did also in order to live a more pleasant life, to entertain themselves by participating in leisure activities organized by their employer and to create new bonds among themselves. With this work culture that they developed, these women workers also created themselves a new particular identity. We also want to show that Dupuis Frères, with its paternalistic management, was controlling its employees and was exploiting their work culture to ensure the employees’ faith in them and maintain the company’s reputation. Second, we want to prove that even if the work culture of the women working at Dupuis Frères, during that period, was influenced by domesticity and the separate spheres ideology (features of the dominant « traditional » femininity), it was more and more incorporating, mostly from Second World War, new dimensions of a more « modern » femininity that were not replacing the mother-housewife ideal, but that rather were making their feminine identity more complex.