A ocorrência de N-nitrosaminas em produtos cosméticos e de higiene pessoal está relacionada com os ingredientes utilizados na formulação de tais artefatos. A N-nitrosodietanolamina (NDELA) é formada na presença da dietanolamina associada a outros componentes, tais como íons nitrito empregados como conservantes em matrizes cosméticas. São cancerígenas e, portanto, as condições em que tais itens de consumo são fabricados é um fator que deve ser mensurado. Assim, é aconselhável a realização de estudos que mostrem a ocorrência de NDELA em cosméticos, seus principais métodos de determinação, bem como os aspectos legais que indicam os níveis de concentração deste contaminante presente em diversas formulações. Foi avaliado neste trabalho o potencial de algumas técnicas de preparo de amostras na concentração de NDELA, tais como microextração líquido-líquido dispersiva em fase reversa (DLLME-RP), extração líquido-líquido com salting out e clean up no modo on-line. Os resultados obtidos foram confrontados com os dados presentes na literatura. Adicionalmente, utilizando os conceitos de polimerização via sol-gel e via precipitação para a síntese de polímeros molecularmente impressos (MIP), propõem-se uma possível rota sintética para a confecção de materiais seletivos para a pré-concentração da nitrosamina. / The occurrence of N-nitrosamines in cosmetic and personal hygiene are related to the ingredients used in the formulation of such artefacts. N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) is formed in the presence of diethanolamine associated with other components such as nitrite ions employed as preservatives in cosmetic matrices. They are carcinogenic and, therefore, the conditions under which such consumer items are produced is a factor that must be measured. It is therefore advisable to carry out studies that show the occurrence of NDELA in cosmetics, their main methods of determination as well as the legal aspects that indicate the levels of concentration of this contaminant present in various formulations. It was evaluated in this study the potential for some sample preparation techniques in the concentration of NDELA such as liquid-liquid microextraction dispersive reverse phase (DLLME-RP) liquid-liquid extraction with salting out and clean up online. The results were compared with data in the literature. Additionally, using the concepts of polymerization via sol-gel and precipitation route for the synthesis of molecularly imprinted polymers (MIP) are proposed as a possible synthetic route for the preparation of materials for selective pre-concentration of nitrosamine.

A ocorrência de N-nitrosaminas em produtos cosméticos e de higiene pessoal está relacionada com os ingredientes utilizados na formulação de tais artefatos. A N-nitrosodietanolamina (NDELA) é formada na presença da dietanolamina associada a outros componentes, tais como íons nitrito empregados como conservantes em matrizes cosméticas. São cancerígenas e, portanto, as condições em que tais itens de consumo são fabricados é um fator que deve ser mensurado. Assim, é aconselhável a realização de estudos que mostrem a ocorrência de NDELA em cosméticos, seus principais métodos de determinação, bem como os aspectos legais que indicam os níveis de concentração deste contaminante presente em diversas formulações. Foi avaliado neste trabalho o potencial de algumas técnicas de preparo de amostras na concentração de NDELA, tais como microextração líquido-líquido dispersiva em fase reversa (DLLME-RP), extração líquido-líquido com salting out e clean up no modo on-line. Os resultados obtidos foram confrontados com os dados presentes na literatura. Adicionalmente, utilizando os conceitos de polimerização via sol-gel e via precipitação para a síntese de polímeros molecularmente impressos (MIP), propõem-se uma possível rota sintética para a confecção de materiais seletivos para a pré-concentração da nitrosamina. / The occurrence of N-nitrosamines in cosmetic and personal hygiene are related to the ingredients used in the formulation of such artefacts. N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) is formed in the presence of diethanolamine associated with other components such as nitrite ions employed as preservatives in cosmetic matrices. They are carcinogenic and, therefore, the conditions under which such consumer items are produced is a factor that must be measured. It is therefore advisable to carry out studies that show the occurrence of NDELA in cosmetics, their main methods of determination as well as the legal aspects that indicate the levels of concentration of this contaminant present in various formulations. It was evaluated in this study the potential for some sample preparation techniques in the concentration of NDELA such as liquid-liquid microextraction dispersive reverse phase (DLLME-RP) liquid-liquid extraction with salting out and clean up online. The results were compared with data in the literature. Additionally, using the concepts of polymerization via sol-gel and precipitation route for the synthesis of molecularly imprinted polymers (MIP) are proposed as a possible synthetic route for the preparation of materials for selective pre-concentration of nitrosamine.

Σκοπός της παρούσας έρευνας είναι να μελετήσει πως τα αισθητηριακά ερεθίσματα επηρεάζουν την αντίληψη της ποιότητας μιας καλλυντικής κρέμας προσώπου, την ικανοποίηση, την πίστη και τα συναισθήματα που αναπτύσσει ο καταναλωτής απέναντι στην κρέμα. Πλέον οι καταναλωτές θεωρούν δεδομένα τα λειτουργικά χαρακτηριστικά των προϊόντων και αποζητούν το συναισθηματικό δέσιμο με το προϊόν. Ο σκοπός του μάρκετινγκ των αισθήσεων (sensory marketing) είναι να ενισχύσει το συναισθηματικό δέσιμο των καταναλωτών με τα προϊόντα μέσω της χρήσης των πέντε βασικών αισθήσεων. Δεν έχουν πραγματοποιηθεί ακόμα πολλές έρευνες πάνω στο μάρκετινγκ των αισθήσεων και στο πως επηρεάζει την αντίληψη των καταναλωτών για το προϊόν. Το θεωρητικό εννοιολογικό πλαίσιο της συγκεκριμένης έρευνας προέκυψε από τη συγχώνευση του συμπεριφοριστικού μοντέλου S-O-R (Mehrabian and Russell, 1974) και του εννοιολογικού μοντέλου για το μάρκετινγκ των αισθήσεων της Krishna (2011). Το εργαλείο με το οποίο μελετήθηκε η επίδραση των αισθητηριακών ερεθισμάτων στην αντίληψη της ποιότητας της καλλυντικής κρέμας ήταν ένα ερωτηματολόγιο που μοιράστηκε σε 9 φαρμακεία της Θεσσαλονίκης και συμπληρώθηκε από 154 άτομα. Μέσα από την ανάλυση παραγόντων (factor analysis) προέκυψαν 11 καταναλωτικά προφίλ. Τα ερευνητικά συμπεράσματα υποδεικνύουν πως τα αισθητηριακά ερεθίσματα επηρεάζουν την αντιλαμβανόμενη ποιότητα θετικά, οδηγώντας σε ένα ισχυρό (συναισθηματικό και λογικό) δέσιμο του καταναλωτή με την κρέμα που έχει επιλέξει. / The purpose of this study is to explore how sensory stimuli influence emotions associated, perceived quality, satisfaction and loyalty towards a face cream brand. Nowadays consumers believe that the functional attributes of products are granted and look for an emotional attachment with each product. The aim of sensory marketing is to reinforce the attachment between a product and its consumers, through the involvement of human senses. Sensory marketing is yet a new practice, thus the number of studies concerning its effect on brand perception are limited. Two conceptual frameworks, the stimulus-organism-response (S.O.R.) behavioral framework (Mehrabian and Russell, 1974) and the conceptual framework of sensory marketing, (Krishna, 2011), were merged and elaborated to construct the research model of this study. The use of sensory marketing at this study was explored by administrating an anonymous self-completed questionnaire, which was distributed to 154 face cream buyers, within 9 pharmacy stores across Thessaloniki, Greece. For the purposes of the study, an exploratory principal component analysis was conducted. The factor solution identified 11 factors. All factors were labeled, interpreted and discussed in the light of existing knowledge in order to understand better the consumer behavior in relation to sensory stimuli. The findings indicate that sensory stimuli influence brand perception positively leading to a stronger (rational and emotional) bond between the brand and the consumer.

The aim of this thesis, which is called "Organization of production and quality in the company" was to assess how the management and organization help to abide by the production quality. There was introduced a production process of two chosen products, a process of the production flow and a background of the production in the selected company. Next part includes the description of the quality management of the chosen products including requirements and standards which are necessary for the production of the cosmetic products. Based on the findings of deficiencies, there were suggested measures to improve the quality management system.

L’allergie cutanée est un problème majeur de santé publique pouvant fortement impacter la vie de l’individu atteint. Une cause largement reconnue d’allergie de contact sont les substances parfumantes intégrées dans les produits cosmétiques. La réglementation cosmétique en vigueur oblige le fabricant à évaluer les risques de ces substances. Bien que certaines de ces substances soient également présentes dans les huiles essentielles, il n’existe pas à l’heure actuelle une telle réglementation pour les huiles essentielles. L’objectif de cette thèse a été de caractériser l’exposition à certaines substances parfumantes d’intérêt provenant de la consommation d’huiles essentielles et de produits cosmétiques. Nous avons d’abord étudié la consommation d’huiles essentielles au sein d’un panel représentatif de la population française. Nous avons ensuite défini les substances parfumantes sensibilisantes retrouvées dans ces huiles. L’exposition cutanée aux produits cosmétiques a également été étudiée. Enfin, ces données ont été croisées pour comparer l’exposition provenant de la consommation de ces deux produits au limonène en utilisant des méthodes statistiques probabilistes (Méthodes de Monte-Carlo). Cela a permis de démontrer que les huiles essentielles pouvaient être un fort contributeur dans l’exposition globale au limonène, pour certaines zones corporelles comme le visage. Il a donc été mis en évidence l’intérêt de la prise en compte des huiles essentielles, et non pas seulement des produits cosmétiques dans l’exposition globale à certains allergènes de contact, pour mieux protéger la population. / Skin sensitization is a public health issue in France and in the rest of Europe that can impact the life of the affected individual. A well-known cause of skin sensitization are the fragrance allergens present in cosmetics. The European cosmetic regulation in force to date requires the manufacturer to assess the risks of these substances prior to their placing on the market. Although some of these substances are also present in essential oils, there is currently no such regulation for these products. The aim of this work was to characterize the exposure to particular fragrance substances of interest due to the consumption of essential oils and cosmetics. At first, we studied the consumption of essential oils in a representative panel of the French population. Then, we defined the fragrance allergens found in these oils. We also defined dermal exposure to cosmetics. Finally, these data were crossed using probabilistic statistical methods (Monte-Carlo methods) to compare exposure to a particular allergen present in these two products: the limonene. This work permitted to demonstrate that essential oils can be a strong contributor in the global exposure to limonene, for particular body areas, e.g. face. This work therefore highlights the importance of taking into account essential oils, and not only cosmetics in the global exposure to particular contact allergens, in order to better protect the population.

La qualité microbiologique d’un produit cosmétique se doit d’être conservée durant la totalité de sa durée de vie grâce à l’ajout notamment de conservateurs antimicrobiens. Néanmoins, les conservateurs organiques traditionnellement utilisés sont particulièrement décriés depuis quelques années car suspectés d’effets secondaires. Dans l’objectif de disposer d’alternatives à ces substances, les propriétés antimicrobiennes de l’oxyde de zinc (ZnO) ont été étudiées. L’efficacité antimicrobienne de ces particules inorganiques a ainsi été évaluée sur les cinq micro-organismes d’intérêt pour l’industrie cosmétique (E. coli, S. aureus, P. aeruginosa, C. albicans et A. brasiliensis). Pour cela des tests microbiologiques ont été mis en place en milieu gélosé et bouillon liquide pour évaluer la sensibilité de chaque souche microbienne au ZnO. L’efficacité de ces poudres a été évaluée au sein de diverses formules cosmétiques via la réalisation de Challenge Tests. Des études spécifiques visant à améliorer la compréhension des mécanismes antimicrobiens du ZnO ont été menées : les phénomènes de dissolution des particules générant des cations zinc, de production photochimique de radicaux libres ou encore de contact direct entre particules et cellules microbiennes ont été approfondis. Couplés à des études supplémentaires visant à affiner les relations structure/activité, ces travaux ont été menés dans l’objectif d’optimiser le potentiel antimicrobien de ces poudres pour la présente application. Ce projet a démontré que le ZnO permettait de conserver la qualité microbiologique de produits dermopharmaceutiques variés, allant des émulsions aux poudres. Dépendamment de sa concentration, les actions bactéricides, levuricide et fongistatique du ZnO confèrent aux produits la capacité de répondre aux exigences requises en termes de conservation. Les poudres minérales de ZnO apparaissent alors comme une alternative appropriée aux conservateurs organiques / The microbiological quality of a cosmetic product should be preserved during its whole shelf-life notably thanks to the addition of antimicrobial preservatives. Nevertheless, commonly used organic preservatives are particularly criticized since a few years because they are suspected of side effects. In order to propose alternatives to these substances, the antimicrobial properties of zinc oxide (ZnO) were studied. The antimicrobial efficacy of these inorganic particles was evaluated on the five microorganisms of interest for the cosmetic industry (E. coli, S. aureus, P. aeruginosa, C. albicans and A. brasiliensis). Microbiological tests were designed in agar medium and liquid broth to evaluate the sensitivity of each microbial strain to ZnO. The efficacy of these powders was evaluated in various dermopharmaceutical formulations via Challenge Tests. Some specific studies dedicated to improve the understanding of antimicrobial mechanisms of ZnO were carried out: (i) particles dissolution generating zinc cations, (ii) photochemical generation of free radicals (iii) direct contact between particles and microbial cells. Coupled with additional studies designed to refine structure/activity relationships, this work was performed in order to optimize the antimicrobial potential of these powders for the present application. All these studies demonstrated that ZnO enabled the preservation of the microbiological quality of various cosmetic products (emulsions and powders). The bactericidal, levuricidal and fongistatic activities of ZnO were dependent of its concentration and confer to the products the ability to comply with the demands in term of preservation. The inorganic powders of ZnO appear as suitable alternatives to organic preservatives

En raison de la compétitivité dans le marché des produits chimiques et la demande croissante pour les produits de qualité, l'industrie et l'académie sont à la recherche de nouvelles méthodes pour la conception des produits chimiques. Par conséquent, cette étude propose une approche méthodologique pour faciliter la prise de décisions dans la conception de produits de type émulsion. Les caractéristiques de la méthodologie proposée sont les suivantes: elle propose des méthodes pour l’analyse des besoins de consommateurs, la génération d'idées pour la conception du produit et la sélection du meilleur produit, en prenant en compte la nature multi-variée du problème de conception avec l'intégration de la notion de durabilité dans le processus de conception. La méthodologie comporte trois étapes de conception: Étape de besoins, étape de génération d'idées et étape de sélection d'idées. Dans la première étape, les besoins sont analysés et classifiés en fonction de leur impact sur la satisfaction du client. Ensuite, ils sont traduits aux spécifications du produit avec l’aide des experts et des clients. Les informations de saisie correspondent aux besoins des clients et celles de sortie correspondent aux spécifications du produit, c'est-à-dire des caractéristiques du produit qui peuvent être évaluées. Également, deux méthodes sont utilisées: le modèle de kano et la méthode QFD (Déploiement des Fonctions Qualités). Dans la seconde étape, les produits répondant aux spécifications sont conçus en suivant une démarche en trois phases: 1) le problème de conception est divisé selon un groupe défini de sous-problèmes généraux. 2) Chaque sous-problème est connecté à un groupe de stratégies de solution selon une première matrice de décision prédéfinie. 3) Les stratégies de solution sont connectées avec des ingrédients et des conditions opératoires selon une deuxième matrice de décision. Cette démarche est faite en utilisant deux matrices de décision développées dans cette recherche sur la base de la connaissance de science d'émulsion, ainsi que sur des connaissances des experts. Dans la troisième étape, les alternatives de produit sont évaluées selon le cahier de spécifications définis dans la première étape et les indicateurs de durabilité appropriés. Ces indicateurs sont utilisés pour évaluer et classer les alternatives de produit selon un indice de développement durable global. Pour développer cette étape un ensemble d'indicateurs évaluant la dimension économique, environnementale et sociale de produits est choisi et ils sont intégrés par la mise en oeuvre d’une méthode d'analyse de multi-critère. Finalement, afin d’illustrer la méthodologie, une étude de cas est développée: la conception d'une crème hydratante / Emulsion based chemical products, which belong to the category of micro-structured chemical products, have a broad range of commercial applications. Despite their importance, there is not a general methodology for their design. With the aim to contribute to the progress on this matter, this research presents a product design methodology focused on emulsion design with the following characteristics: it proposes methods for customer needs analysis, product ideas generation and selection of the best product alternative. It considers the multivariate nature of emulsion design by taking into account the multiple effects of design variables into product properties. It integrates sustainability concepts into the product design process. The methodology comprises three design stages: needs stage, ideas generation stage and ideas selection stage. In the needs stage, customer needs are first analyzed and classified according to their effect on customer satisfaction and second translated into product specifications with the aid of experts and customers. The input is customer needs, i.e., statements expressing customers’ desires about the product, and the output corresponds to product specifications, i.e., product characteristics that can be measured. To perform this stage two methods are used: Kano model and Quality Functional Deployment. In ideas generation stage, product concepts accomplishing product specifications are generated in three sub-steps: First, problem specifications are classified into a predefined group of design sub-problems. Second, each sub-problem is connected with one or more pre-defined solution strategies through a prefilled relational matrix. Third, compatible solution strategies are selected and connected to ingredients and processing conditions through a second relational matrix. As result, a set of product concepts is generated. Thisprocedure is developed by the implementation of two relational matrices proposed in this research based on emulsion science and expert knowledge. The first connects sub-problems with solution strategies and the second connects solution strategies with ingredients and processing conditions. In the selection stage, generated product concepts are evaluated according to product specifications. In addition, appropriated sustainability indicators are included to assess and rank product alternatives according to a global sustainability index. To perform this stage, a set of indicators are selected and integrated by the implementation of multi-criteria analysis methods. The application of the methodology is exposed with a case study: the design of a moisturizing cream

The thesis deals with general attitudes toward advertising and their influence on the effect of television advertising in the selected target group. The theoretical section explains communication and advertising, attitudes, their function, changes and formation and also focuses on attitudes towards advertising and their impact on the effectiveness of advertising. In the practical part, there was done my own research on the advertising of cosmetic products and the target group of women. The methodology description is followed by secondary and primary research into general attitudes towards advertising and the effect of selected ads on cosmetics in the target group. In conclusion, the analysis of relationship between attitudes on advertising and advertising effects was done, the results were evaluated and possible implications for practice were suggested.

In the context of the world's increasing environmental challenges and the rise of green consumerism, promoting sustainable consumer behavior is more important than ever. This study aims at extending the understanding of consumers' purchase  intention of  environmentally friendly cosmetic products. With a theoretical starting point in theories of green promotion and the theory of planned behavior, a total of ten hypotheses and sub-hypotheses were formulated to answer the research question how green promotional cues can be used to affect consumers' beliefs and increase purchase intention. Central concepts in the study’s constructed conceptual framework are intrinsic cues which represent concrete characteristics of a product such as ingredients and formula, and extrinsic cues which are attributes not present within the product itself such as packaging and brand. A quantitative approach using an online survey in an experimental vignette designed questionnaire generated responses from a sample of 325 participants in three treatment groups, and the data was subsequently examined through statistical analysis. The study’s main findings show that intrinsic cues have a stronger influence on purchase intention than extrinsic cues but that extrinsic cues seem to have a stronger influence on consumers’ subjective beliefs. The study provides implications on how cosmetic companies can use the insights generated by the study when developing promotional strategies for green cosmetics.

Studiens huvudsakliga syfte är att undersöka svenska konsumenters förhållningssätt, kännedom och informationssökning om kemikalier i kosmetiska produkter samt hur utbrett fenomenet kemofobi, den irrationella rädslan för kemikalier är. Framförallt har en kvantitativ ansats tillämpats i studiedesignen. Empirin samlades in med en webbaserad enkät som besvarades av 221 personer. Sociala bakgrundsfaktorer har ställts mot huvudvariablerna för att upptäcka möjliga samband. Respondenternas svar redovisas i resultatet med tabeller och grafer och jämförs sedan med en rad olika tidigare studier inom ämnet. Vårt resultat ger en indikation för förhållningssätten bland kvinnor, personer i medelåldern och högutbildade eftersom detta var den mest övervägande gruppen av våra respondenter. Resultatet indikerar på att det finns både en medelnivå av kemofobi och toxikologisk kunskap hos respondenterna. Det finns en negativ förknippning till begreppet kemikalier och riskmedvetenheten av kosmetiska produkter är inte speciellt utbredd. Sedan framgick även att informationssökningen kring innehållet i kosmetika är komplex då innehållsförteckningen som tillhandahålls till konsumenter är bristfällig i att kommunicera risker på ett lättförståeligt sätt. Därför behöver riskkommunikationen ses över för kosmetiska produkter men även att de ska riskbedömas och märkas likt andra produkter utan något undantag i kemikalieregleringen. Detta är ytterst viktigt för att säkerställa medvetna inköpsval och skydd av hälsa och miljö. / This study’s main purpose is to investigate Swedish consumers’ approaches, knowledge and how they search for information concerning chemicals in cosmetics as well as how widespread the phenomenon chemophobia, the irrational fear of chemicals, is. A mainly quantitative approach has been applied in the design of the study. Empirical data was collected with a web-based survey resulting in 221 respondents. Sociodemographic factors were connected to the main variables with the purpose of discovering possible correlations. The answers from the respondents are presented in the result with tables and graphs and then compared with several different studies on the subject. Our result indicates the views among women, middle-aged and people with higher education due to this being the most prevalent group of our respondents. The result indicates that there is a medium level of both chemophobia and toxicological knowledge among the respondents.There is a negative association with the word chemicals and the risk awareness for cosmetic products are not that widespread. Furthermore, it appeared that the information search concerning the contents of cosmetics are complex because the table of content that is provided to consumers is lacking in communicating risks in an understandable manner. Therefore, the risk communication concerning cosmetics should be evaluated and the products should also undergo the same risk assessments and labelling equal to other consumer products without exceptions in regulation. This is of outmost importance to ensure conscious purchasing behaviour and protection of health and the environment.