[pt] A estearamidopropil dimetilamina (SAPDMA) é um surfactante presente em diversos cosméticos do mercado, principalmente em condicionadores e máscaras capilares. Devido ao seu caráter pseudo-catiônico, essa amidoamina alquílica neutraliza as cargas negativas presentes no cabelo, diminuindo o frizz e deixando-os macios e fáceis de pentear. Além disso, essa molécula é uma ótima substituta aos catiônicos tradicionais, por apresentar menor toxicidade aquática e maior biodegradabilidade. Porém, a SAPDMA é uma molécula não-iônica e insolúvel em água pura, tornando-se positivamente carregada apenas quando em menores valores de pH. Atualmente, sabe-se que diferentes ácidos podem originar formulações com diferentes propriedades físico-químicas, porém este fenômeno ainda não é totalmente compreendido. Este trabalho visa avaliar sistemas com 8 ácidos diferentes, e compreender como essa escolha tem impacto nas estruturas coloidais formadas pelo surfactante. Além disso, também tem como objetivo entender como a presença de álcool graxo influencia na formação da fase líquido-cristalina lamelar, alterando as propriedades finais desses diferentes sistemas. As técnicas de caracterização adotadas neste estudo foram a microscopia óptica convencional e de polarização, o espalhamento de luz dinâmico (DLS), o espalhamento de raios X a baixos ângulos (SAXS) e a reologia. Os resultados mostram o impacto da escolha dos ácidos nas estruturas coloidais, implicando diferenças que não dependem exclusivamente da variação de pH, mas também das diferentes interações entre a SAPDMA e os ânions envolvidos. A tendência do sistema é formar a fase líquido-cristalina lamelar, mas dependendo do ácido utilizado, as lamelas podem apresentar diferentes morfologias, com alterações em sua curvatura. Dessa forma, a escolha do ácido pode impactar na formação, ou não, de vesículas, além de ter enorme papel na estabilidade dos sistemas e nas propriedades sensoriais dos produtos, as quais são fundamentais para atender as necessidades dos consumidores. Sabe-se que, por um lado, as bicamadas fornecem maior viscosidade para o sistema do que as vesículas, sendo essa uma propriedade de enorme importância para aplicação em cosméticos. Porém, por outro lado, as bicamadas mais maleáveis, as quais podem se fechar mais facilmente formando as vesículas, são uma melhor opção em sistemas de emulsões, já que conseguem estabilizar melhor as gotas de óleo dispersas. Este estudo mostra a importância de se compreender melhor esses sistemas e o impacto do ácido utilizado, para que melhores formulações possam ser elaboradas pelas indústrias de cosméticos, que já fazem uso desse surfactante em diversos produtos consumidos pela sociedade. Segundo o nosso colaborador direto, Dr. Heitor de Oliveira (Coty Inc., Darmstadt/Alemanha), este estudo foi fundamental para que o grupo de P(e)D o qual ele gerencia pudesse otimizar e gerar redução de custos em um grupo de fórmulas de condicionadores capilares, considerados como best seller entre as marcas Clairol NNE e Wella Koleston, ambas pertencentes ao grupo Coty Inc.. As respectivas fórmulas já se encontram em fase de teste final para produção. / [en] Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA) is a surfactant and it has been widely used in the cosmetics industries, particularly in hair conditioners and masks. Because of its pseudo-cationic nature, this alkyl amidoamine neutralizes the negative charges of hair strands, decreasing frizz, providing greater softness and combing force reduction. Besides that, alkyl amidoamines are excellent substitutes for traditional cationic surfactants, because they present less toxicity and improved biodegradability. However, SAPDMA is insoluble in water, as it behaves as a non-ionic molecule. At low pH values, SAPDMA becomes positively charged and, consequently, soluble in water. Currently, it is known that different acids can induce different colloid structures in formulations containing SAPDMA, which have particular physico-chemical properties. From the best of our knowledge, this phenomenon it not completely understood yet. This study intends to understand how 8 different acids can impact on colloidal structures formed by SAPDMA. In addition, we also aim to understand how fatty alcohols change the final properties of these different systems. The techniques employed to characterize all systems were conventional and polarized optical microscopy, dynamic light scattering (DLS), small angle X ray scattering (SAXS) and rheology. The results revealed that the chosen acids impact differently on the colloidal structures and that the observed differences are not limited only to pH variations, but also to different interactions between SAPDMA and the anions involved, the respective conjugated bases. The systems tendency is to form lamellar liquid-crystalline phase, but depending on the chosen acid, bilayers may have different morphologies, with changes in its curvature. So, the acid choice can impact on the formation, or not, of vesicles, besides it has a huge role in systems stability as well as the sensorial properties of the products, which are key to address the consumer needs that we aim to comply with. On one hand, bilayers can provide increased viscosity that is a property of enormous importance for application in cosmetics. On the other hand, malleable bilayers can easily close and form vesicles, which are better choice for emulsion systems, since they can easier stabilize dispersed oil droplets. This study shows the importance of better understanding systems containing SAPDMA and the impact that different acids have on them. Hence, better formulations could be developed by cosmetic industries, which already use this pseudo-cationic surfactant in several products consumed by society. Accordingly to our direct collaborator Dr. Heitor de Oliveira (Coty Inc., Darmstadt/Germany), this study was essential for the R(and)D group which he manages in order to optimize and generate cost reduction in a group of conditioner formulas considered as best seller within the brands Clairol NNE as well as Wella Koleston, both from Coty Inc.. The respective formulas are already in the final teste phase for production.

No description available.

No description available.

• Problemformulering och syfte: Det övergripande syftet med studien är att undersökavarumärket Caia cosmetics kontra delägaren och influencern Bianca Ingrossos krishantering.Eftersom många förknippar varumärket Caia med Bianca Ingrosso så vill vi se hur både Caiaoch Bianca hanterar krisen och om de använder sig av samma strategiska kommunikativainsatser eller inte.Denna studie är intressant ur ett samhällsperspektiv då det nämligen inte skrivits så mycketom influencers egna företags krishantering. Under tiden som vi sökt material har vi då ocksåinsett att detta faller under en så kallad vit fläck i vetenskapen. När det skrivs om influencerskrishantering bedömer vi att det oftare handlar om självständiga varumärken med influencerssom ambassadörer. Frågeställningarna har besvarats utifrån väletablerade teorier och tidigareforskning, detta för att få svar på själva syftet i studien. Studien innefattar teorier så somapologia, SCCT, image repair theory, krishanteringsstrategier, allmänna råd inomkriskommunikation samt tidigare forskning.• Metod och material: Studien bygger på en kvalitativ innehållsanalys med hjälp avkodscheman. För att få svar på studiens frågeställningar har teorier och tidigare forskningkopplats på uttalanden och citat från Caia cosmetic och Bianca Ingrosso. Materialet somanalyseras är 2 artiklar i Aftonbladet, 1 i Expressen, 2 i tidningen Market, 1 från Nyheter24, 1från Resumé och 1 instagramvideo.• Huvudresultat: Resultatet visar vilka strategiska kommunikativa insatser Caia och Biancaanvänder när de svarar på kritiken mot julkalendern. Utöver detta ger studien också svar påvad de största skillnaderna är mellan Caia och Biancas kriskommunikation.

In this study I examine the two major cosmetic categories - products for skin and products for hair - aimed at frican American women and advertised within the black press between 1920 and 1960. Specifically, I examine the Chicago Defender, Afro-American, Plaindealer, and Ebony. My project analyzes the images and conceptions of blackness and beauty sold to women of colour by white-owned and black-owned cosmetics companies.  I explore the larger racial and social hierarchies these advertising images and messages maintained or destabilized. A central theme of this project has been tracing the differences in advertising messages and conceptions of beauty communicated by black-owned and white-owned companies. Many of the images and much of the advertising copy produced by black-owned cosmetic companies challenged hegemonic beauty ideals that venerated white beauty and sold white idealization as a norm. The black cosmetic industry, however, was dominated by white-owned companies. The dominant position of white-owned companies was linked to the advantages associated with whiteness, which allowed these companies to advertise with greater frequency throughout the forty-year period. White-owned and black-owned companies often pursued diverging advertising strategies and messaging about black beauty. An important finding of the project is that white-owned companies were more likely to use degrading language and stereotypes to describe black beauty in their advertisements. However, a company’s racial identity did not always determine advertising strategies or messaging about black beauty. An important concept that permeated the 1920s and 1930s was the strategy of racial uplift, which was promoted by several black-owned companies. This strategy tapered out by the1940s as new technologies like photography regularly depicted black women with dignity and accuracy. The 1940s and 1950s witnessed new advertising strategies including the appeal to glamour. This period also saw the introduction of Ebony magazine, which fundamentally altered advertising messages through their appeal to middle class sensibilities. / Thesis / Master of Arts (MA) / My project analyzes skin bleaching and hair straightening advertisements appearing in four black-owned periodicals between 1920-1960: Chicago Defender, Afro-American, Plaindealer, and Ebony. The main goal has been to document the advertising messages about blackness and beauty communicated to black women through the advertisements of black-owned and white-owned cosmetic companies. I explore the larger racial and social hierarchies these advertising images and messages maintained or destabilized. A major finding of this project has been that advertising messages usually, but not always, diverged along racial lines. White-owned companies were more likely to use denigrating language to describe black hair and skin, and more likely to measure the beauty of black women based on how closely they approximated whiteness. Black-owned companies tended to challenge this ideology. They used messages about racial uplift as part of this challenge.

By making a CDA the linguistic and semantic features in cosmetic products are going to be examined. For the purpose of this study, 99 products, from two companies, are analysed in order to find out if the marketing teams of the companies are using different linguistic and semiotic features in order to persuade their target group. Theories of masculinity and femininity are presented and the relationship between gender and language is analysed. Furthermore, Aristotle’s theory about the three proofs of persuasion ethos, pathos and logos is discussed. After analyzing and discussing the data that have been gathered in relation with the background theories, significant differences are noticed on the products for the two genders. In the research appears that the two genders are targeted in different ways and that different linguistic and semiotic features are used for each gender.

Leung, Kar Man, Man, Angela Wing Yee. / Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2002. / Includes bibliographical references (leaf 37). / ABSTRACT --- p.ii / TABLE OF CONTENTS --- p.iii / LIST OF FIGURES --- p.vi / LIST OF TABLES --- p.vii / CHAPTER / Chapter I --- INTRODUCTION --- p.1 / Chapter 1.0 --- Overview --- p.1 / Chapter 1.1 --- Objectives of our study --- p.2 / Chapter 1.1.1 --- Research objective --- p.2 / Chapter 1.1.2 --- Decision making objective --- p.3 / Chapter II --- CONCEPTUAL FRAMEWORK --- p.4 / Chapter 2.0 --- Theory of Reasoned Action --- p.4 / Chapter 2.1 --- Reason for choosing the Theory of Reasoned Action --- p.4 / Chapter 2.2 --- What is the Theory of Reasoned Action? --- p.4 / Chapter III --- METHODOLOGY --- p.8 / Chapter 3.0 --- Methodology --- p.8 / Chapter 3.1 --- Research design --- p.8 / Chapter 3.2 --- Sample and sampling method for the main study --- p.8 / Chapter 3.2.1 --- Sample --- p.8 / Chapter 3.2.2 --- Sampling method for the descriptive research --- p.9 / Chapter 3.3 --- Operationalizatoin --- p.9 / Chapter 3.4 --- Data analysis --- p.11 / Chapter 3.4.1 --- Analyzing consumption behavior --- p.11 / Chapter 3.4.2 --- Testing the conceptual model --- p.11 / Chapter 3.5 --- Research activities --- p.11 / Chapter 3.5.1 --- Exploratory research --- p.11 / Chapter 3.5.1.1 --- Literature review --- p.11 / Chapter 3.5.1.2 --- Focus group --- p.11 / Chapter 3.5.1.2.1 --- Sampling method --- p.12 / Chapter 3.5.1.2.2 --- Sample --- p.12 / Chapter 3.5.1.2.3 --- Research area --- p.12 / Chapter 3.5.1.2.4 --- Pre-testing the instrument --- p.13 / Chapter 3.5.2 --- Descriptive research --- p.13 / Chapter 3.5.2.1 --- Description of the instrument --- p.13 / Chapter 3.5.2.2 --- Procedure for administering the questionnaires --- p.14 / Chapter 3.5.2.3 --- Analysis and interpretation of the responses --- p.14 / Chapter IV --- RESULTS --- p.15 / Chapter 4.0 --- Results --- p.15 / Chapter 4.1 --- Consumption behavior --- p.15 / Chapter 4.1.1 --- Men's classification of cosmetics items --- p.15 / Chapter 4.1.2 --- Consumption behavior of cosmetics and toiletries --- p.16 / Chapter 4.1.3 --- Year(s) of experience of using skincare products --- p.16 / Chapter 4.1.4 --- Knowledge of brands that carry men's cosmetics --- p.17 / Chapter 4.1.5 --- Relative importance of independent factors --- p.17 / Chapter 4.1.6 --- Demographic description of the respondents --- p.18 / Chapter 4.1.6.1 --- Jobs/ industries --- p.18 / Chapter 4.1.6.2 --- Highest education level attained by respondents --- p.19 / Chapter 4.1.6.3 --- Respondents' monthly income --- p.19 / Chapter 4.1.6.4 --- Age distribution of the respondents --- p.19 / Chapter 4.2 --- Path analysis --- p.19 / Chapter 4.2.1 --- Reliability analysis --- p.20 / Chapter 4.2.2 --- LISREL analysis --- p.21 / Chapter 4.2.3 --- """Model 1"" of the conceptual model" --- p.22 / Chapter V --- CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS --- p.26 / Chapter 5.0 --- Conclusion --- p.26 / Chapter 5.1 --- Managerial implications --- p.26 / Chapter 5.1.1 --- What to market --- p.26 / Chapter 5.1.2 --- How much to price --- p.27 / Chapter 5.1.3 --- How to market skincare products to men --- p.27 / Chapter 5.1.4 --- Whom to target at --- p.28 / Chapter 5.1.5 --- How to position skincare products --- p.29 / Chapter 5.1.6 --- How to make your brand recognized --- p.29 / Chapter 5.2 --- Limitations --- p.30 / Chapter 5.2.1 --- External validity --- p.30 / Chapter 5.2.1.1 --- Sampling bias --- p.30 / Chapter 5.2.1.2 --- Sampling method --- p.31 / Chapter 5.2.2 --- Limited scope --- p.31 / Chapter 5.2.2.1 --- Specific definition of the research subject --- p.31 / Chapter 5.2.2.2 --- Lack of segmentation --- p.32 / Chapter 5.2.2.3 --- Incomprehensive list of factors --- p.32 / Chapter 5.2.3 --- Different administrative methods used --- p.33 / Chapter 5.2.4 --- Maturation effect --- p.33 / Chapter 5.2.5 --- Unanswered sections --- p.34 / Chapter 5.2.6 --- Leading questions affecting validity --- p.34 / Chapter 5.3 --- Suggestions for future research --- p.34 / Chapter 5.3.1 --- Larger and more random sample --- p.34 / Chapter 5.3.2 --- Wider scope --- p.34 / APPENDIX --- p.36 / Chapter 1 --- Population by age group and sex at the end of2001 / Chapter 2 --- Sales of cosmetics and toiletries in the Asia-Pacific region by sector1998-2000 / Chapter 3 --- Constructs of the conceptual model and statements usedin questionnaire / Chapter 4 --- Questions and answers for the focus group / Chapter 5 --- Research instrument - the questionnaire / Chapter 6 --- Percentage of respondents who consider the stated items as cosmetics / Chapter 7 --- Usage frequency of cosmetics and toiletries / Chapter 8 --- Year(s) of experience of using skincare products / Chapter 9 --- Knowledge of the brands which carry men's cosmetics / Chapter 10 --- Relative importance of factors affecting the use of skincare products / Chapter 11 --- Industries which respondents workin / Chapter 12 --- Highest education level attained by respondents / Chapter 13 --- Respondents' monthly income / Chapter 14 --- Respondents' age distribution / Chapter 15 --- Results from reliability analysis / Chapter 16 --- LISREL outputs / BIBLIOGRAPHY --- p.37

University of Macau / Institute of Chinese Medical Sciences

Thesis (M. Tech.) -- Central University of Technology, Free State, [2009] / Somatologists in South Africa no longer only practice beauty technology. They receive highly skilled training in the well being of the whole body, thus a more holistic approach is emphasized. Currently, stakeholders in the field of somatology are facing a number of challenges, which could impact greatly on the profession. The question of recurriculation, in order to align the training provided for somatologists with the new Higher Education Qualification Framework (HEQF) and the possible registration of the profession with a statutory body, are some of the challenges posed to the profession. In order to position the somatology profession favourably in South Africa, it was thus necessary to explore the current status of the profession through input from all stakeholders in the industry and to develop a possible framework. The objective of the study was firstly to obtain quantitative information from stakeholders in the field of somatology on matters related to their professional training, employment, recurriculation, referral trends to and from medical professionals and registration of the profession. Secondly, to obtain quantitative information from other medical professionals regarding referrals to somatologists and thirdly, to develop a possible framework that could facilitate the positioning of somatology more favourably as a profession in South Africa. Data were collected by means of two separate questionnaires, one sent to stakeholders in the somatology field and the other to medical professionals specializing in the fields of dermatology, plastic surgery and oncology. The results indicated that the stakeholders in the somatology field were satisfied with the current training provided by registered IX private providers and Universities of Technology. Job satisfaction was experienced by most, however, the hours and days worked could be improved. The need for short courses, as a means of staying in touch with the latest developments in the somatology industry, was identified. Currently, there exists a referral trend between somatologists and medical professionals, however, the frequency of referrals could be improved. The need for the somatology profession to register with a statutory body was identified by both somatologists and medical professionals. Two possible frameworks, with regards to the training provided for somatologists and the registration of the profession, were compiled based on the feedback obtained in the study, in order to position the profession somatology more favourably in South Africa.

Thesis (MComm)--Stellenbosch University, 2003. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The usage of product packaging and generation specific marketing in order to influence and persuade consumers to buy specific products are being used more often resulting packaging in being more consumer-orientated and playing an increasingly important role in enterprises' marketing communication strategies than before. In this study the dimensions of packaging are identified and the importance that the various dimensions of cosmetic packaging hold for Generation X and Yare investigated. Form, colour, graphics, brand name, words, material and size have been identified as dimensions of packaging. The Engel-Blackwell-Miniard Model for Decision-making Behaviour and the Generation Model were used as theoretical starting points for a discussion about packaging and the characteristics of Generation X and Y consumers. For the purposes of this explorative study, information has been gathered by use of a mall intercept survey. Trained fieldworkers questioned approximately five hundred respondents. The statistical processing of the data included frequency-analyses, cross tabulation as well as significance statistics. It was found that Generation X and Y consumers see the packaging, with all its different dimensions, as a single entity and that the importance of the graphic, material, brand name (as indication of quality and price), size and word dimensions of packaging are reasonably similar for men and women. Men and women, however, attach different perceptions concerning colour/s, form and brand names. There also exist statistically significant differences between the different genders, concerning the usage of most of the range of cosmetic products. Women make up the majority of users. Although the results indicate that the Generation Model can be applied to all races originating from the middle and high income and literacy groups, the usage of cosmetics products tend to differ between the races. Recommendations for further research are made. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Bemarkers gebruik toenemend die verpakking van produkte en generasiespesifieke bemarking om verbruikers te beïnvloed en te oorreed en om hul produkte te koop. Verpakkings is gevolglik meer verbruikersgeoriënteerd en speel 'n belangriker rol in die bemarkingskommunikasie-strategie van 'n onderneming as in die verlede. In hierdie studie word die dimensies van verpakking geïdentifiseer en die belangrikheid van die onderskeie dimensies van kosmetiese verpakking vir Generasie X en Y ondersoek. Vorm, kleur, grafika, handelsnaam, woorde, materiaal en grootte is geïdentifiseer as dimensies van verpakking. Die Engel-Blackwell-Miniard model van verbruikers besluitnemingsprosesgedrag en die Generasie-model is gebruik as teoretiese vertrekpunte vir 'n bespreking oor verpakking en die eienskappe van Generasie X en Y verbruikers. Vir die doeleindes van die eksploratiewe studie is inligting ingesamel deur middel van 'n inkoopsentrumopname ("mall intercept"). Ongeveer vyfhonderd respondente is deur opgeleide veldwerkers ondervra. Die statistiese verwerking van die data sluit frekwensie-ontleding en kruistabulering in, asook beduidenheid statistiek. Daar is gevind dat Generasie X en Y verbruikers die verpakking met sy onderskeie dimensies as 'n enkele identiteit beskou en dat die belangrikheid van die grafika-, materiaal-, handelsnaam- (as indikator van kwaliteit en prys), grootte- en woorddimensie van verpakking redelik ooreenstem vir beide mans en dames. Mans en dames heg egter verskillende betekenisse aan die kleur/e en vorm van 'n verpakking en het verskillende persepsies oor handelsname. Daar bestaan ook statisties beduidende verskille tussen geslagte in die verbruik van die meeste kosmetiese produkte. Dames is die grootste verbruikers van die meeste kosmetiese produkte. Alhoewel die resultate daarop dui dat die Generasie-model op alle bevolkingsgroepe wat afkomstig is uit middel en hoër inkomste- en geletterdheidsgroepe van toepassing is, verskil die verbruik van kosmetiek tussen die verskillende bevolkingsgroepe. Aanbevelings in verdere navorsing word gemaak.