Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, 2007. / Adviser: Elizabeth Hearne. UMI Cat. no.: 3269982. Includes bibliographical references (p. 411-442)

Thesis (Ph.D.)--Carnegie Mellon University, 2006. / (UMI)AAI3236591. Adviser: Richard Buchanan. Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 67-10, Section: A, page: 3632.

Thesis (Doctoral)--Rheinische Friedrich-Wilhelms-Universität zu Bonn, 1982.

Thesis (docotral)--Universität Leipzig, 1909. / Vita. Includes bibliographical references.

Islamic architecture is arguably one of the greatest manifestations of Islamic visual culture. One of the defining aspects of the unique, aesthetic richness of traditional Islamic architecture has been the application of ceramic ornamentation or embellishment. There is a growing concern, however, that this legacy is being eroded. The diminishing identity of Islamic visual culture is particularly evident through current architectural developments occurring in the Arab states. The building revolution in the Gulf countries has dramatically increased momentum since the onset of the ‗oil economy‘, echoing the phenomena of globalization. This research project explores these concerns, discussing the erosion of Islamic ‗identity‘ within contemporary architecture in the Gulf States and in particularly Kuwait, as well as the ensuing decline in the use of ceramics as a defining embellishment material. The research compares the aesthetics of traditional and contemporary Islamic architectural design, whilst also examining the reasons behind this erosion in traditional design style. The diminishing identity of Islamic visual culture is investigated by combining studies in the fields of art, aesthetics, design, architecture, and the social sciences, in order to understand the nature of the research problem. A series of case-studies demonstrates how ceramics may be used to re-introduce a sense of Islamic identity within contemporary architecture. This offers design proposals, new materials and technical processes that acknowledge the rich traditions of Islamic Ceramics while also being appropriate for application within the context of contemporary Islamic architecture detailing; blending contemporary aesthetics and technical thinking with traditional Islamic design. The aim of the case-studies is to offer proposals for a new aesthetic vocabulary of architectural embellishment that is both appropriate to and innovative within, the context of contemporary Islamic architecture. This new aesthetic vocabulary III specifically blends contemporary design principals, new materials and technical processes, whilst acknowledging the rich traditions of Islamic ceramics. The PhD project, applies two types of research methodology: theoretical research and practice-based research. The former focused on social sciences and applied quantitative and qualitative research approaches, including surveys and interviews undertaken within Kuwait. The findings obtained from these surveys verified the emergence of a new cultural style of contemporary architecture and shaped the practice-based element of the project; proposals for ceramic embellishment that are contemporary, while still reflecting many recognizable aspects of traditional Islamic design. The new architectural style can be attributed to factors such as globalization, the adoption of international building styles, and a seeming unwillingness to incorporate traditional styles into new building design, all of which contribute to the currently weak identity of Arabic / Islamic ceramics within Kuwait. Despite of this, the survey revealed that Kuwaiti society maintains a strong relationship and affiliation with Islamic culture, although many seemed unaware of their own rich culture and its past legacy. The practice-based research involved two distinct phases. The first phase involved the development of a large number (172) of new glazes. The glazes were intended to reflect the palette of colours used over generations of Islamic Ceramic culture, while still being appropriate for integration within the contemporary Islamic architectural environment. The second phase of practice involved a series of case studies, embracing a wide range of contemporary architectural ceramic design processes (including 2 and 3 Dimensional geometrical patterns and interpretations of contemporary calligraphic design). The case studies utilised a number of modern technologies, such as 3D Solid modelling, CNC Rapid Prototyping and Laser-cutting, to prove that modern design and manufacturing technologies can be integrated within traditional ceramic processes. The aim being to both provide ceramic products that architects and designers can use to enhance the modern IV architectural environment of Kuwait and re-establish the creative status of ceramics.

The purpose of the research described in this thesis was to develop a design methodology for Wearable Computing concepts that could potentially embody authenticity. The Wearables community, still firmly rooted in the disciplines of engineering and ergonomics, had made clear its aspirations to the mainstream market (DeVaul et al 2001). However, at this point, there was a distinct lack of qualitative studies on user perceptions of Wearable products. A review of the market research literature revealed significant consumer demand for authenticity in goods and services, and it was this need that drove the program of research. The researcher's experience as a contemporary jeweller led her to question the positivist design processes of Wearable Computers. The ‘borg'-like aesthetics that had come to characterise these products reflected their origins in the laboratory, and implicit configurations of the user appeared to be acting as a barrier to wider adoption. The research therefore looked to Craft as a creative process with a fundamentally different working philosophy to begin building a new methodology for Wearables. Literature reviews of authenticity and Craft were conducted to provide the theoretical framework necessary for a practice-led enquiry into the design process. Further empirical work was undertaken in the form of the comfortBlanket, a concept design project, and a small survey of makers to provide a set of protocols for craft informed design processes. Following this, a suite of wirelessly networked jewellery was designed for a friendship group of five retirement aged women, and built in collaboration with the Speckled Computing Consortium, Scotland. The user centred methodology is informed by Actor Network Theory to account for the agency of the researcher and the event of task based analyses, and includes lifeworld analysis techniques drawn from a range of disciplines such as psychology and experimental Interaction Design. Three data sets collected over the course of two years were analysed using Grounded Theory, and a novel visualisation tool was developed to illustrate potential commitment to the novel concept designs. The methodology revealed a story of what the women made of the jewellery, how they enacted these understandings, and where this process took place. It was found that evaluating concept designs for the everyday and for authenticity require different approaches and that the design process does not end with the user, but with a reflexive analysis by the designer or researcher. In many respects the proposed methodology inverts standard design practices, presenting as many questions as it seeks to resolve. The methodology is presented as a contribution to emerging communities of practice around Wearable Computing, and to those developers seeking to position their products in the everyday. It is a challenging process that embodies authenticity in its post-structural treatment of functionality, the user and evaluation. Finally, the implemented wireless jewellery network represented the first application of Speckled Computing, and it is anticipated that the theoretical frameworks arrived at will also be of interest to Interaction Design and Contemporary Craft.

This thesis examines the networks involved in the production of the wardrobe of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester (1532/3-1588). It is clearly demonstrated that Leicester’s dress placed him alongside his contemporaries within the nobility. A successful and well functioning wardrobe network was crucial to achieving the required standard of dress. Establishing the identity of the individual members of the network enables the further examination of each person’s role within the network, and in dressing Leicester. Comprised of English masters embedded in their livery company politics and punctuated with foreign masters, the network provides an insight into business practice and social interaction in sixteenth century London.

The main objective of this research is to investigate the relationship between national identity and fashion among Kuwaiti women. The research findings propose that Kuwaiti women are able to use fashion to contribute to the construct of their national identity in the twenty-­first century. A multi-­method approach to the investigation was adopted. Firstly, critical analysis was used to grasp the concepts of national identity and fashion, and conclusions were drawn. Secondly, a case study method was used to collect data from a prominent, iconic Kuwaiti woman, Fatima Husain. Data was collected by undertaking critical analysis of her book and of publications about her by others, as well as an interview with her. Finally, primary data was obtained through interviews with prominent designers from Kuwait and the United Arab Emirates, and from a structured questionnaire survey of women from these two countries. Thematic analysis was used to identify the key themes that were then analysed to establish the nature of the relationship between fashion and national identity among Kuwaiti woman. Five major themes and several other sub-­ themes were identified, analysed and discussed. These five major themes are discourses on individualism, symbolism, morality, ethnicity and parochialism. The main conclusions were: (i) national identity is a complex, multi-­ perspective concept not amenable to a universal definition. The position taken in this study was the modernist perspective, that is, national identity is a socially constructed process which continues to evolve according to context. Put in simple terms, it is a process in transition; (ii) there is no universal theory to explain fashion, which can be considered multi-­‐ disciplinary. This study concluded that the theory of fashion is rooted in social theory, behavioural science theory and economics theory, and it also involves aspects such as social class, behaviour (e.g. imitation, innovation) and disposable income. An analysis of fashion trends in Kuwait showed a significant shift in women’s fashion over the last 80 years; (iii) the Kuwaiti woman is ethnic, educated, independent, moral, wealthy, modest, decent, dignified, elegant and conspicuous. She has fine taste, is able to make clothing choices, is at times parochial but is ultimately able to use fashion to communicate her image and hence construct her national identity. However, therelationship between fashion and identity appears to manifest itself in two major ways – traditional dress and day dress. The study concludes with the design of a logo as part of the practical design element of the study. The primary elements of the logo were based on the findings of this research which were taken into account in the design. The logo therefore extended the theoretical findings using visual analysis. The objective is to have the logo manufactured for commercialisation.

Textile dyes have been the subject of many studies from the varied perspectives of historians, conservators and scientists. Most of these have focused on natural compounds but nineteenth century synthetic dyes form the basis of this thesis. The dual areas of interest have been the social history of those dyes developed between the introduction of Mauveine in 1856 and the end of the century and the investigation of novel spectroscopic methods for their identification in situon textiles. Although the first synthetic dye was manufactured in England, the centre of the industry soon moved to Germany and Switzerland. Education an d contacts in Switzerland or Germany were important in advancement in the field as can be seen in the previously unresearched biography of J.J. Hummel who, through his Swiss step-father, was able to travel to Zurich to study and subsequently progressed from working as a cotton printer to become the first professor of textile dyeing at the Yorkshire College, later Leeds University. Evidence was found in newspapers and popular periodicals for three other factors which had an important influence on the attitude to synthetic dyes in England. One was English reluctance to invest in speculative ventures rather than the established textile industries. The second was the possession of colonial holdings and overseas trade networks which encouraged continued research into imported natural products. Thirdly the particular form of the Arts and Crafts movement in England emphasised the craft means of production in a way which the equivalent aesthetic in Germany did not. Nineteenth century dye manuals show that there was no exclusive use of either natural or synthetic dyes in the trade despite the fashion in artistic circles for ‘natural’ colours. The identification of synthetic dyes on textiles is important in textile history and conservation especially in the context supplied by the investigations described above into the usage of the dyes. It is highly desirable in the field of cultural heritage to devise analytical techniques which are non-destructive and non-sampling. Dyed wool and silk samples were prepared using 12 dye compounds. Different techniques were tested and Fourier transform Raman spectroscopy was able to provide diagnostic spectra for a variety of synthetic dyes. Clear features in the spectra could be used to identify the dye class and to distinguish between dyes of the same class. This technique allowed the detection of dyes on the textile for the first time and it was applied successfully to original samples from dye manuals. One unknown mauve sample was also analysed and a combination of infrared and Raman spectroscopy allowed a definite identification of the dye as a triphenylmethane and tentatively as Methyl violet. This study combines investigations into material culture and social history and demonstrates the use of science together with historical research to reveal new insights into the history of textile dyes.

Two objects formed the catalyst for this project and can be used to introduce the set of parallel and converging discourses that underline the text. A pair of cross-frame stools, still found in the entrance hall at Harewood today, generate a series of questions, regarding the collection itself and the Regency period, the history of the Lascelles family in the early nineteenth century and the dichotomy clearly present between the patterns of patronage of the previous generation and that of Edward Lascelles (d. 1814). Stylistically the stools look towards Egypt, engendering an investigation into the formation of this particular revival, centred on the figure of Dominique-Vivant Denon, whose text Voyage dans la Basse et la Haute Egvpte introduced French society to the archaeological discoveries found in the conquered lands. A copy of this text is located in the Harewood collections, and it forms the foundation of a consideration of the political, semiological and social implications of the use of a particular decorative style. Questions are asked regarding the cultural implications of interior design. This leads us back to an examination of how and why the Egyptian revival was established in Britain. This has motivated a consideration of the discourses of furniture history and the methods by which we understand stylistic change, and particularly an analysis of the presentation of such collections today and the historiography of English furniture styles. Each aspect of the study coheres around the central theme of the Harewood collection. Material objects such as the cross-frame stool represent a number of social rituals and cultural practices. My aim is to use theoretical models to begin to unravel the meanings associated with such objects.