O cromo hexavalente – Cr(VI) – presente nos efluentes das indústrias galvânicas, entre outras, é tóxico para maioria dos micro-organismos e potencialmente danoso para a saúde humana. No presente trabalho se estuda a redução de Cr(VI) pelos processos fotoquímicos com álcoois e fotocatálise heterogênea, primeiramente em um reator batelada, com objetivo de obter o melhor processo para aplicação industrial. Na sequência, foram realizados experimentos com efluente industrial, contendo Cr(VI), proveniente de uma indústria galvânica. Após, foram projetados e construídos dois reatores contínuos, o reator em forma de espiral e o reator tubular (radiação artificial e luz solar), com intuito de viabilizar a aplicação industrial do melhor processo de redução de Cr(VI). As reações de redução fotocatalítica de Cr(VI), sob radiação UV, alcançaram reduções totais de Cr(VI) de 66,5% e 56,7% para os catalisadores TiO2 e ZnO, respectivamente, indicando que o catalisador TiO2 foi mais eficiente que o catalisador ZnO. As reações de redução fotoquímica de Cr(VI) com etanol apresentaram altos valores de redução total de Cr(VI), sendo que as reações sob radiação UV (96,1%) foram mais eficientes que as reações sob radiação visível (48,1%). Na redução fotocatalítica de Cr(VI) com TiO2, na presença de etanol, sob radiação UV, foi observada uma redução de Cr(VI) de 92,9% maior do que a redução obtida nas reações fotocatalíticas com TiO2 sob radiação UV (66,5%), evidenciando o efeito sinérgico entre a oxidação do etanol e a redução do Cr(VI). Quando usados com efluente industrial, estes processos mostraram-se eficientes e obtiveram altos valores de redução total de Cr(VI), possibilitando o uso destes tratamentos para remoção de Cr(VI) presente em efluentes de indústrias galvânicas. Entretanto, dentre estes processos estudados, o mais indicado para aplicação industrial foi a fotoquímica com etanol sob radiação UV, pois dispensa o uso de processos de separação do catalisador e apresenta menores custos com reagentes, sendo o etanol de baixo custo, não tóxico e de fácil aquisição. O reator contínuo espiral, projetado e construído, mostrou-se mais eficiente do que o reator batelada, apresentando uma eficiência fotônica de 2,5% comparada a 1,4% para o reator batelada. Ainda, este reator mostrou-se eficiente quando usado com efluente industrial, apresentando uma redução total de Cr(VI) de 51,8%, em 6 horas de reação, sendo sua configuração considerada suscetível para um scale-up. Assim, um reator tubular (radiação artificial e luz solar) foi projetado e construído em escala semi-piloto. Este reator apresentou uma remediação de Cr(VI), presente no efluente industrial, de 86,7% em 6 horas de reação sob luz solar e mostrou uma eficiência fotônica maior do que o reator contínuo espiral. Ainda, o reator tubular apresentou eficiência fotônica similar quando usado com lâmpadas (5,6%) ou luz solar (5,5%), porém as reações sob luz solar mostraram uma maior redução total de Cr(VI) quando comparadas com as reações sob radiação artificial. Assim, o reator tubular, projetado e construído, mostrou-se eficiente quando aplicado para o tratamento de efluente industrial contendo Cr(VI), pelo processo de redução fotoquímica. Além disso, o uso do reator tubular solar minimiza a quantidade de energia elétrica necessária para a reação, reduzindo não somente os custos do processo, como também se tornando uma tecnologia ambientalmente sustentável. / Hexavalent chromium – Cr(VI) – present in wastewater discharge of galvanic industries is toxic to most microorganisms and potentially harmful to human health. In this work were studied Cr(VI) reduction by heterogeneous photocatalysis and photochemistry with alcohols processes, firstly in a batch reactor, in order to obtain the best process for industrial application. Subsequently, experiments were conducted using real wastewater from an electroplating plant. In order to feasible the industrial application of best Cr(VI) reduction process were designed and built two continuous reactors, the spiral shaped reactor and the tubular reactor (artificial radiation and sunlight). The photocatalytic reduction reaction of Cr(VI) under UV radiation achieved total Cr(VI) reduction of 66.5% and 56.7% for TiO2 and ZnO catalysts, respectively, indicating that the TiO2 catalyst was more efficient than ZnO catalyst. The photochemical reduction reaction of Cr(VI) with ethanol presented high values of total Cr(VI) reduction, and the reactions under UV radiation (96.10%) were more efficient than the reactions under visible radiation (48.1%). In the photocatalytic reduction reaction of Cr(VI) with TiO2 in the presence of ethanol under UV radiation was observed a Cr(VI) reduction of 92.9% greater than the reduction obtained in the photocatalytic reactions with TiO2 under UV radiation (66.5%), demonstrating the synergistic effect between ethanol oxidation and Cr(VI) reduction. When used with real wastewater these processes proved to be efficient and showed high values of total Cr(VI) reduction, enabling the use of these treatments for removal of Cr(VI) present in wastewater discharge of galvanic industries. However, among these processes studied, the most suitable for industrial application appears to be photochemistry with ethanol under UV radiation, because it does not require catalyst separation processes and presents lower reagent costs, since ethanol is inexpensive, non-toxic and easy to purchase. The spiral shaped reactor, which was designed and built, showed more efficient than the batch reactor, presenting a photonic efficiency of 2.5% compared to 1.4% for the batch reactor. Additionally, this reactor was effective when applied to real wastewater, presenting a total Cr(VI) reduction of 51.8% in 6 hours of reaction, and its configuration is suitable for scale up. Thus, a tubular reactor (artificial radiation and sunlight) was designed and built in semi-pilot scale. This reactor presented a Cr(VI) remediation of 86.7% in 6 hours of reaction under sunlight and showed a photonic efficiency higher than spiral shaped reactor. Additionally, the tubular reactor presented similar photonic efficiency when used with either lamps (5.6%) or sunlight (5.5%), however the reactions under sunlight showed a greater total Cr(VI) reduction when compared to the reactions under artificial radiation. Therefore, the tubular reactor, which was designed and built, proved to be efficient when applied to treatment of real wastewater containing Cr(VI) by photochemical reduction process. Furthermore, the use of a solar tubular reactor minimizes the amount of electricity required for the reaction, which not only reduces process costs, but also makes the technology more environmentally sustainable.

abstract: Environmentally responsive microgels have drawn significant attention due to their intrinsic ability to change volume in response to various external stimuli such as pH, temperature, osmotic pressure, or electric and magnetic fields. The extent of particle swelling is controlled by the nature of the polymer-solvent interaction. This thesis focuses on design and synthesis of environmentally responsive microgels and their composites, and encompasses methods of utilizing microgel systems in applications as vehicles for the adsorption, retention, and targeted delivery of chemical species. Furthermore, self-assembled microgel particles at ionic liquid (IL)-water interfaces demonstrate responsive colloidal lattice morphology. The thesis first reports on the fundamental aspects of synthesis, functionalization, and characteristic properties of multifunctional environmentally responsive microgels derived from poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) (PNIPAm) and other functional co-monomers. In particular, the uptake and release of active chemical species such as rheology modifiers into and from these ionic microgels is demonstrated. Moreover, a facile tunable method for the formation of organic-inorganic composites with Fe3O4 nanoparticles adsorbed and embedded within ionic microgel particles is explored. Additionally, the development of zwitterionic microgels (ZI-MG) is presented. These aqueous ZI-MG dispersions exhibit reversible parabolic swelling as a function of pH and display a minimum hydrodynamic diameter at a tunable isoelectric point (IEP). This study also elucidates the controlled uptake and release of surfactants from these particle systems. The extent of surfactant loading and the ensuing relative swelling/deswelling behaviors within the polymer networks are explained in terms of their binding interactions. The latter part of this thesis highlights the versatility of fluorescently labeled microgel particles as stabilizers for IL-water droplets. When the prepared particles form monolayers and equilibrate at the liquid-liquid interface, the colloidal lattice organization may re-order itself depending on the surface charge of these particles. Finally, it is shown that the spontaneously formed and densely packed layers of microgel particles can be employed for extraction applications, as the interface remains permeable to small active species. / Dissertation/Thesis / Doctoral Dissertation Chemical Engineering 2015

abstract: For the last 10 years, the American Southwest has been experiencing the most persistent drought conditions on record. Based on future climactic predictions, there is a dire need to reduce water usage within Phoenix. An environmentally responsible behavior such as low water use landscaping (xeriscaping), has been shown to reduce household water consumption by 40%-70%. While much is known regarding the relationship between socio-demographics and xeriscaping choices, the influence of other variables remains to be explored. Using data from the 2017 Phoenix Area Social Survey, this study investigates the influence of two additional variables - ecological worldview and place identity on xeriscaping choice. Data was analyzed using two models - Ordinary Least Squares (OLS) and Linear Probability Model (LPM). Ecological worldview and place identity, along with income, ethnicity, and gender, were all found to be positively related to xeriscape preference. Additionally, when compared to the LPM, the traditional OLS was found to still be the most robust and appropriate model when measuring landscape preference. Finally, results suggested that programs to foster identity with the local desert mountain parks may help to increase xeriscaping in the Valley and thus lower residential water use. / Dissertation/Thesis / Masters Thesis Community Resources and Development 2018

O cromo hexavalente – Cr(VI) – presente nos efluentes das indústrias galvânicas, entre outras, é tóxico para maioria dos micro-organismos e potencialmente danoso para a saúde humana. No presente trabalho se estuda a redução de Cr(VI) pelos processos fotoquímicos com álcoois e fotocatálise heterogênea, primeiramente em um reator batelada, com objetivo de obter o melhor processo para aplicação industrial. Na sequência, foram realizados experimentos com efluente industrial, contendo Cr(VI), proveniente de uma indústria galvânica. Após, foram projetados e construídos dois reatores contínuos, o reator em forma de espiral e o reator tubular (radiação artificial e luz solar), com intuito de viabilizar a aplicação industrial do melhor processo de redução de Cr(VI). As reações de redução fotocatalítica de Cr(VI), sob radiação UV, alcançaram reduções totais de Cr(VI) de 66,5% e 56,7% para os catalisadores TiO2 e ZnO, respectivamente, indicando que o catalisador TiO2 foi mais eficiente que o catalisador ZnO. As reações de redução fotoquímica de Cr(VI) com etanol apresentaram altos valores de redução total de Cr(VI), sendo que as reações sob radiação UV (96,1%) foram mais eficientes que as reações sob radiação visível (48,1%). Na redução fotocatalítica de Cr(VI) com TiO2, na presença de etanol, sob radiação UV, foi observada uma redução de Cr(VI) de 92,9% maior do que a redução obtida nas reações fotocatalíticas com TiO2 sob radiação UV (66,5%), evidenciando o efeito sinérgico entre a oxidação do etanol e a redução do Cr(VI). Quando usados com efluente industrial, estes processos mostraram-se eficientes e obtiveram altos valores de redução total de Cr(VI), possibilitando o uso destes tratamentos para remoção de Cr(VI) presente em efluentes de indústrias galvânicas. Entretanto, dentre estes processos estudados, o mais indicado para aplicação industrial foi a fotoquímica com etanol sob radiação UV, pois dispensa o uso de processos de separação do catalisador e apresenta menores custos com reagentes, sendo o etanol de baixo custo, não tóxico e de fácil aquisição. O reator contínuo espiral, projetado e construído, mostrou-se mais eficiente do que o reator batelada, apresentando uma eficiência fotônica de 2,5% comparada a 1,4% para o reator batelada. Ainda, este reator mostrou-se eficiente quando usado com efluente industrial, apresentando uma redução total de Cr(VI) de 51,8%, em 6 horas de reação, sendo sua configuração considerada suscetível para um scale-up. Assim, um reator tubular (radiação artificial e luz solar) foi projetado e construído em escala semi-piloto. Este reator apresentou uma remediação de Cr(VI), presente no efluente industrial, de 86,7% em 6 horas de reação sob luz solar e mostrou uma eficiência fotônica maior do que o reator contínuo espiral. Ainda, o reator tubular apresentou eficiência fotônica similar quando usado com lâmpadas (5,6%) ou luz solar (5,5%), porém as reações sob luz solar mostraram uma maior redução total de Cr(VI) quando comparadas com as reações sob radiação artificial. Assim, o reator tubular, projetado e construído, mostrou-se eficiente quando aplicado para o tratamento de efluente industrial contendo Cr(VI), pelo processo de redução fotoquímica. Além disso, o uso do reator tubular solar minimiza a quantidade de energia elétrica necessária para a reação, reduzindo não somente os custos do processo, como também se tornando uma tecnologia ambientalmente sustentável. / Hexavalent chromium – Cr(VI) – present in wastewater discharge of galvanic industries is toxic to most microorganisms and potentially harmful to human health. In this work were studied Cr(VI) reduction by heterogeneous photocatalysis and photochemistry with alcohols processes, firstly in a batch reactor, in order to obtain the best process for industrial application. Subsequently, experiments were conducted using real wastewater from an electroplating plant. In order to feasible the industrial application of best Cr(VI) reduction process were designed and built two continuous reactors, the spiral shaped reactor and the tubular reactor (artificial radiation and sunlight). The photocatalytic reduction reaction of Cr(VI) under UV radiation achieved total Cr(VI) reduction of 66.5% and 56.7% for TiO2 and ZnO catalysts, respectively, indicating that the TiO2 catalyst was more efficient than ZnO catalyst. The photochemical reduction reaction of Cr(VI) with ethanol presented high values of total Cr(VI) reduction, and the reactions under UV radiation (96.10%) were more efficient than the reactions under visible radiation (48.1%). In the photocatalytic reduction reaction of Cr(VI) with TiO2 in the presence of ethanol under UV radiation was observed a Cr(VI) reduction of 92.9% greater than the reduction obtained in the photocatalytic reactions with TiO2 under UV radiation (66.5%), demonstrating the synergistic effect between ethanol oxidation and Cr(VI) reduction. When used with real wastewater these processes proved to be efficient and showed high values of total Cr(VI) reduction, enabling the use of these treatments for removal of Cr(VI) present in wastewater discharge of galvanic industries. However, among these processes studied, the most suitable for industrial application appears to be photochemistry with ethanol under UV radiation, because it does not require catalyst separation processes and presents lower reagent costs, since ethanol is inexpensive, non-toxic and easy to purchase. The spiral shaped reactor, which was designed and built, showed more efficient than the batch reactor, presenting a photonic efficiency of 2.5% compared to 1.4% for the batch reactor. Additionally, this reactor was effective when applied to real wastewater, presenting a total Cr(VI) reduction of 51.8% in 6 hours of reaction, and its configuration is suitable for scale up. Thus, a tubular reactor (artificial radiation and sunlight) was designed and built in semi-pilot scale. This reactor presented a Cr(VI) remediation of 86.7% in 6 hours of reaction under sunlight and showed a photonic efficiency higher than spiral shaped reactor. Additionally, the tubular reactor presented similar photonic efficiency when used with either lamps (5.6%) or sunlight (5.5%), however the reactions under sunlight showed a greater total Cr(VI) reduction when compared to the reactions under artificial radiation. Therefore, the tubular reactor, which was designed and built, proved to be efficient when applied to treatment of real wastewater containing Cr(VI) by photochemical reduction process. Furthermore, the use of a solar tubular reactor minimizes the amount of electricity required for the reaction, which not only reduces process costs, but also makes the technology more environmentally sustainable.

The theoretical and conceptual maturity, the debate between environmental sciences and late modernity, through discussion of issues relating to the reproduction of socioeconomic disparities en environmental transformations. Thus, this research seeks to answer: The implementation of the National Park of Serra de Itabaiana, as the embodiment of preservation initiative, has contributed to the overcoming of social inequalities in villages Rio das Pedras, World, Gandu I, Gandu II, Lake of the Ovens I and II, the city Itabaiana of Chico Gomes, Areia Branca. What are the economic strategies used by potters and pottery found in the vicinity of Parnassus, to enable their activities? What is the responsiveness of pottery and ceramics to legal requirements arising from implementation of the park? So the objective is to: 1) characterize the economic strategies and capacity of pottery and ceramics of these villages to fulfill legal requirements arising from implementation of Parnassus, 2) identify the possible use of funds from the pottery and ceramics by Parnassus, 3) analyze transformations experienced by these units of production as a result of actions of sustainable development and its possible role in rebuilding social inequalities. To answer the questions and achieve the proposed objectives, we will use the concepts of modernity, environmental conflict and criticism of the notion of sustainable development. This explains the theoretical interconnectivity between different areas of knowledge, predominantly complexity, global and interdisciplinary nature of environmental problems. The investigation of processes of modernization, based on structuration theory, the idea is hypothesized that the creation of Parnassus is configured in the act of entering the region in late modernity in favor of the holders of power, personified in the potters. The methodological approach for the execution of the research is based on qualitative research associated with the ethnographic method. Instruments such as field research, semi-structured interviews with audio recording, document research, were the tools of data collection. The investigation relied on interviews with the owners of the pottery and ceramics and researchers involved in the implementation of Parnassus. Analysis of the interviews was operationalized through the dismemberment of the text, examining the complex variables and phenomena relating to the theory of the structure and concepts of modernity, based on the thematic oral history. Os findings affirm the invisibility of social actors in the institutionalization of the park, This context creates the prerequisite for social and environmental conflicts. The environmental problems that region falls within the overall context of modernity partially excluding the potteries of some modern institutional dimensions. / O amadurecimento teórico-conceitual, no debate entre ciências ambientais e modernidade tardia, via discussão das questões referentes à reprodução das disparidades socioeconômicas em áreas ambientalmente protegidas, é essencial para a reflexão sobre a compreensão das transformações socioambientais. Desse modo, essa pesquisa busca responder: A implantação do Parque Nacional da Serra de Itabaiana como materialização de iniciativa preservacionista, tem contribuído para a superação das desigualdades sociais nos povoados Rio das Pedras, Mundês, Gandu I, Gandu II, Lagoa dos Fornos I e II, município de Itabaiana e Chico Gomes, município de Areia Branca? Quais as estratégias econômicas utilizadas por olarias e cerâmicas localizadas no entorno do PARNASI para viabilizar suas atividades? Qual a capacidade de resposta das olarias e cerâmicas às exigências jurídicas decorrentes da implantação do parque? Assim objetiva-se: 1) caracterizar as estratégias econômicas e capacidade das olarias e cerâmicas dos referidos povoados de cumprir as exigências jurídicas decorrentes da implantação do PARNASI, 2) identificar a possível utilização de recursos oriundos do PARNASI pelas olarias e cerâmicas, 3) analisar as transformações vivenciadas por essas unidades de produção como resultado de ações do desenvolvimento sustentável e seu possível papel na recriação de desigualdades sociais. Para responder às questões e atingir os objetivos propostos, recorreremos aos conceitos de modernidade, conflito ambiental e de crítica à noção de desenvolvimento sustentável. Essa fundamentação teórica explicita a interconectividade entre diversas áreas do saber, predominando a complexidade, o caráter global e interdisciplinar da problemática ambiental. A investigação dos processos de modernização, fundamentada na teoria da estruturação, tem como hipótese a ideia de que a criação do PARNASI se configura numa ação de inserção da região na modernidade tardia favorecendo os detentores de poder, personificados nos ceramistas. O recurso metodológico para efetivação da pesquisa fundamenta-se na investigação qualitativa, associada ao método etnográfico. Os instrumentos como pesquisa de campo, entrevista semiestruturada, com gravação em áudio, pesquisa documental, constituíram as ferramentas de coleta de dados. A investigação contou com entrevistas aos proprietários das olarias e cerâmicas e pesquisadores envolvidos na implantação do PARNASI. A análise das entrevistas foi operacionalizada através do desmembramento do texto, examinando as variáveis complexas e relacionando os fenômenos com a teoria da estruturação e concepções da modernidade, fundamentada na história oral temática. Os resultados afirmam a invisibilização dos atores sociais durante a institucionalização do parque, esse contexto configura pressuposto para os conflitos socioambientais. A problemática ambiental insere essa região no contexto global da modernidade excluindo parcialmente as olarias de algumas dimensões institucionais modernas.

A presente tese teve como objetivo identificar fatores que influenciam o comportamento de consumo ambientalmente mais favorável e, a partir desse processo, evidenciar subsídios às decisões de marketing social voltado para a adoção desse comportamento. Para atender a esse objetivo, buscou-se organizar o referencial teórico inicialmente com um entendimento sobre o relacionamento entre marketing societal e marketing social, passando pelas aplicações de marketing verde e de marketing de idéias. Na seqüência, esse referencial incorporou aspectos teóricos que envolvem o comportamento do consumidor, bem como estudos aplicados à verificação desse comportamento sob a ótica ambiental. A análise exploratória realizada a partir desse referencial teórico-empírico evidenciou a presença de distintas dimensões comportamentais dentro do construto do comportamento de consumo ambientalmente favorável, além das conclusões controversas envolvendo vários fatores de influência sobre essas dimensões comportamentais, o que deu encaminhamento para a realização de uma pesquisa de campo que contribuísse para a identificação dos fatores com influência comum nessas dimensões comportamentais. O modelo de pesquisa de campo foi de caráter descritivo, utilizando o método quantitativo por levantamento amostral junto a 509 consumidores responsáveis pelas compras do domicílio, com idade a partir de dezoito anos, residentes na Região do ABC Paulista. Os resultados gerados, a partir da utilização da técnica de análise multivariada denominada General Linear Models (GLM), mostraram três fatores de influência comum estatisticamente significante sobre as dimensões comportamentais ambientalmente mais favoráveis (interesse ambiental, inconveniência de ser ambientalmente amigável e grau de comprometimento ambiental), do conjunto de vinte e um fatores integrados ao modelo, além de outros seis descartados durante o processo de estruturação desse modelo. Esse resultado, acrescido de orientações provenientes da análise exploratória, sugeriu o desenho de um modelo de comportamento de consumo ambientalmente favorável, cuja aplicação poderá ser implementada em novos estudos, bem como um conjunto de subsídios às decisões do composto de marketing social voltado para a adoção do comportamento ambientalmente mais favorável. / This current work has the purpose of identifying factors that influence the most environmentally favorable consumer behavior and, from this process on, evidence support to social marketing decisions oriented to the adoption of such behavior. In order to understand such purpose, an organization of the theoretical references was sought, initially trying to understand the relationship between societal marketing and social marketing, moving on to green marketing applications and the marketing of ideas. After that, these references incorporated theoretical aspects that involve consumer behavior, as well as studies applied to the verification of such behavior under the environmental standpoint. The exploratory analysis carried out after this empirical theoretical set of references evidenced the presence of distinct behavioral dimensions inside the environmentally favorable consumer behavior. Besides that, the controversial conclusions involving several influence factors regarding these behavioral dimensions, led to the performance of a field research that contributed with the identification of factors that bear common influence in those behavioral dimensions. The adopted research model was the one of descriptive character, using the quantitative method by sampling 509 consumers responsible for their household purchases, aged over eighteen, resident in the São Paulo State ABC Region. The generated results, after the use of the multivaried analysis called General Linear Models (GLM), showed three factors of statistically significant common influence over the most environmentally favorable behavioral dimensions (environmental interest, inconvenience of being environmentally friendly and degree of environmental commitment), out of a set of twenty-one factors integrated to the model, besides six others turned down during this model structuring process. This result, added with orientations from the exploratory analysis suggested the drawing of a environmentally favorable consumer behavior model, whose application may be implemented in new studies, as well as a set of inputs to social marketing decisions made in order to adopt the environmentally favorable behavior.

Environmental degradation and the possibility of natural resource reserve depletion, issues identified as a result economic and productive forces, have caused the rise and strengthening of pro-environmental movements. The environmentally conscious consumer, engaged to these movements, expresses concern in their environmental attitudes and hence in their buying behavior. The individual begins to search for products they believe cause less impact to the environment and value those whose inputs and processes come from environmentally responsible companies. The new consumption patterns become a central theme in a large number of researches that seek to explain and investigate the major changes in consumer behavior. The perception that the adoption of strategies aimed at these consumers is effective, leading to an increase in the number of false promises, which then lead consumers to be influenced by cynicism, questioning the legitimacy of the environmental problem. Still, social and cultural pressure for higher levels of consumption implies lower adoption of environmentally conscious behaviors, influencing the level of consumer materialism. The present study aims to investigate the impact of different variables on the adoption of environmentally conscious consumer behavior. Therefore, the adoption of this behavior was investigated from model based on the study by Cardigo (2008), who adapted the models of Roberts (1996) and Straughan and Roberts (1999). A survey was conducted on 334 respondents, among them students and employees of the Universidade Federal de Santa Maria. The main technique of data analysis was to Structural Equation Modeling. The model adapted from Cardigo (2008) was adequate in understanding the impact of cynicism and materialism on the environmentally conscious consumer behavior and showed good fit indexes in Confirmatory Factor Analysis. Of the ten proposed hypotheses, five were confirmed: materialism has a negative relationship with the environmentally conscious behavior. Furthermore, consumer perceived altruism and efficiency have power to moderate the relationship among cynicism, materialism, environmental concern and environmentally conscious consumer behavior. / A degradação ambiental e a possibilidade do exaurimento de reservas de recursos naturais, aspectos apontados como resultantes do modelo econômico e produtivo vigente, ocasionam o surgimento e o fortalecimento de movimentos pró-ambientalistas. Engajado a esses movimentos, o consumidor ecologicamente consciente manifesta a preocupação ambiental nas suas atitudes e, consequentemente, no seu comportamento de compra. O indivíduo passa a buscar produtos que acredita causar menor impacto ao meio ambiente e a valorizar aqueles, cujos insumos e processos, são provenientes de empresas ambientalmente responsáveis. Os novos padrões de consumo passam a ser tema central de um grande número de pesquisas que procura explicar e investigar as principais mudanças no comportamento do consumidor. A percepção de que a adoção de estratégias voltadas a esse público é efetiva, ocasiona o aumento do número de falsas promessas, o que leva o consumidor a ser influenciado pelo cinismo e questionar a legitimidade do problema ambiental. Ainda, a pressão social e cultural por maiores níveis de consumo acarreta menor adoção de comportamentos ecologicamente conscientes, influenciando o nível de materialismo no consumidor. O presente trabalho tem por objetivo investigar o impacto de diferentes variáveis na adoção do comportamento de consumo ecologicamente consciente. Para tanto, a adoção desse comportamento foi investigada a partir de modelo fundamentado no estudo desenvolvido por Cardigo (2008), que adaptou os modelos de Roberts (1996) e Straughan e Roberts (1999). Foi conduzida uma pesquisa do tipo survey, com 334 respondentes, dentre eles, alunos e servidores da Universidade Federal de Santa Maria. A principal técnica de análise de dados foi a Modelagem de Equações Estruturais. O modelo adaptado de Cardigo (2008) mostrou-se adequado na compreensão do impacto do cinismo e do materialismo sobre o comportamento de consumo ecologicamente consciente e apresentou bons índices de ajuste na Análise Fatorial Confirmatória. Das dez hipóteses propostas, cinco foram confirmadas: o materialismo possui relação negativa com o comportamento ecologicamente consciente e o altruísmo e a eficiência percebida do consumidor possuem poder de moderação das relações entre cinismo, materialismo, preocupação ambiental e comportamento de consumo ecologicamente consciente.

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The apparel industry is pointed out as an industry highly contributing with negative environmental impacts in all different stages of the production to consumption chain. Companies within the outdoor industry have been trying to combat this issue by producing apparel that are less harmful for the environment and by encouraging consumers to keep, care and repair for their apparel over time. Educative communication with customers regarding the environmental issues deriving from apparel consumption is seen where some brands go as far as to engaging in environmental activism. Regarding retailers within the outdoor industry, the use of educational communication needs to incorporate many different brands and thus communicating about environmentally preferable apparel is more complex. This study investigates the Swedish retailer Naturkompaniet’s approach to educational communication in order to identify what possibilities there are to encourage consumers to purchase environmentally preferable apparel and to care for it over time. The study find that Naturkompaniet does use educational communication to encourage consumers to purchase environmentally preferable apparel to some extent. It also identifies room for improvement and give suggestions on how the communication can be developed further.

Content: Sheepskin, a by-product of the meat industry, is then often processed to leather, primarily for the clothing industry. Where the tanneries are distant from the abattoirs and freezing works, the raw skins have to be transported long distances to be processed. In warm weather, there is the potential for putrefaction of the skins which then have to be disposed of at a cost. Depilation, the first step of leather processing, is designed to remove the wool from the skin without damaging it. Conventional depilation involves the use of strong alkali and sulfides, that are harmful to both the environment and the personnel carrying out the process due to the potential production of hydrogen sulfide, a toxic, flammable gas. To solve this problem, scientists have been looking to depilate skins using enzymes as these are environmentally friendly. Various enzymes, such as collagenase, keratinase, protease and lipase have been shown to be able to remove hair from skin, but unfortunately usually damage it. Furthermore, at present, they are not cost effective at an industrial level. We have found a simple solution, a derivative of a dairy by-product, that prevents putrefaction, preserving the skin for days at room temperature. In addition, it allows easy removal of the wool from the skin. Scanning electron microscopy showed there was no obvious damage to the surface of the depilated skin and that the wool is cleanly removed from the hair follicle. To assess any less visible damage that may have occurred as a result of soaking the skin, biochemical analyses were carried out to measure the changes to the amino acid composition, collagen crosslinks and proteoglycan concentrations of the depilated skins. Sheepskin depilated with this method was processed to leather and its physical properties such as tear, and tensile strength analysed. Culture dependent methods were used to isolate the microorganisms present in the solution after depilation, showed that only four main species were consistently found in the depilation fluid and on the skins. Metagenomic analysis, confirmed these findings and was used to follow the changes in the microbiome during the course of depilation. This presentation will describe the progress that has been made to understand the science behind these observations and compare the properties of skins depilated using this method with those depilated using the traditional beamhouse process. Take-Away: We are using a natural product to depilate sheepskin. The sheepskin is also preserved while depilation. Microscopy, chemical analyses, physical tests, and metagenomics analysis were done to understand the process.