Syftet med studien är att försöka lösa passformsproblem på trikåmodeller till dam som har en förlängd axel. Studien skrivs i samarbete med ett stort svenskt klädföretag och undersöker ett problem som företaget själva har identifierat. Problemet gäller passformen på några av företagets trikåmodeller till dam som alla har en förlängd axel och en lösare passform. Passformsproblemen som trikåmodellerna upplevs ha uppstår vid just axeln, ärmhålet och överärmsvidden. Inom forskning och litteratur saknas det information kring passformsproblem och åtgärder vid konstruktion av trikåplagg med en förlängd axel. I dagsläget har inte företaget tid att själva testa och utveckla trikåmodellerna och studien har därför fokuserat på att försöka lösa problemet med passformen åt dem. För att uppnå syftet har en experimentell metod använts. Denna har utförts via digital mönsterkonstruktion, uppsömnad av provplagg och verifierats genom avprovningar på provpersoner och på provdocka. Resultatet av studien visar att en medel- till hög ärmkulle behövs till plagg med en förlängd axel för att uppnå en god passform på ärmen och kring ärmhålet. / The purpose of the study is to try to solve fit problems on women’s jersey models with a dropped shoulder. The study is written in collaboration with a large Swedish clothing company and investigates a problem that the company itself has identified. The problem concerns the fit of some of the company's jersey sweaters for ladies, each with a dropped shoulder and a looser fit. The fit problems that the jersey models are having occurred at the shoulder, the armhole and bicep. In research and literature there is no information about fitting problems and how to adjust the construction of jersey garments with a dropped shoulder. At present, the company does not have time to test and develop the jersey models, and the study has therefore focused on trying to solve the problem of the fit for them. To achieve the aim, an experimental method has been used. This has been done through CAD-based pattern construction, sewing test prototypes and verified by fittings on human fitting models and on a dummy. The result of the study shows that a medium to high sleeve crown is needed for clothes with an extended shoulder to achieve good fit on the sleeve and around the armhole.

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Purpose The purpose of this master’s thesis is to investigate consumers’ perceptions of the end-of-life stage of a garment. Overall, the objective is to determine influencing factors that impact consumers’ disposal decisions to conceive a better understanding of post-purchase consumer behavior and formulate implications for both business and society. Design/Methodology/Approach The research of this study follows a deductive approach, whereby hypotheses are derived from existing literature and the Theory of Planned Behavior. A single quantitative data collection method is applied to collect primary data, namely, a cross-sectional self-administered online questionnaire. An effective sample size of 398 respondents is statistically analyzed using Structural Equation Modeling. The conducted descriptive research design investigates the causal relationships between the latent variables and the Behavioral Intention. Findings The empirical findings reveal that consumers’ Attitude positively and individuals’ Subjective Norm negatively influences the intention to dispose of garments. The Personal Value of consumers highly negatively impacts the Attitude and therefore indicates an indirect relationship to an individual’s behavioral intention. There is no significant correlation between consumers’ Endeavor to Change to their Attitude towards garment disposal and between Perceived Behavioral Control and an individual’s disposal intention. Implications Fashion enterprises are advised to act as educators to raise awareness of the adverse effects of frequent garment disposal and elucidate lifetime-extension measures, such as creating emotional attachment through customization or co-creation. Furthermore, emphasizing longevity during the production phase is crucial to hinder the influential factor of disposal due to damage. Therefore, policymakers’ importance is decisive in establishing industry-wide standards regarding garment production and lifetime-extension practices. Furthermore, societal education about garment disposal opportunities should be provided, for example, through implementation in the general curriculum of schools and governmental or nongovernmental organizations’ campaigns. Originality/Value By taking the general development toward a throwaway society into account, a connection to the textile industry is drawn in this thesis. When looking at the literature, it is visible that increasing attention is placed on the post-consumer phase. However, the technical constitution and the actual disposal approaches were mostly covered in this context. Therefore, the authors of this thesis examine the particular consumers’ determination of the end-of-life stage of garments to contribute to current circumstances and related literature.

Background – Circular economy (CE) is gaining more and more importance in research, based on the great desire to change the linear fashion economy to a circular. A Product Service System (PSS) can contribute to the achievement of CE, as PSSs, such as take-back or repair services, bring back the garments to the fashion retail company into the CE. Regarding, closed-loop goals have been created from which the third goal needs to be recently achieved by the fashion industry. Closed-Loop Goal 3 deals with the cascading flow of garments, which sends a garment into multiple usage loops. To accomplish the cascading garment flow, this method connects several PSSs to close the loop, and fewer garments end in landfill. To achieve that, the involvement of customers and business partners is essential as they are purchasing and repatriating garments and materials into the cascading loops. Purpose – The research purpose is to offer new knowledge regarding how fashion retailers can implement cascading loop systems in the textile Closed-Loop Supply Chain (CLSC) and narrow the research gap of cascading loop creations. The study aims to investigate how to involve customers and business partners in PSSs through the digitalisation of cascading garment flow. By doing so, the cascading garment flow intends to achieve improved sustainable performance by allowing used garments to enter a cascading garment flow system.  Methodology – This thesis is a single case study that has been conducted through an abductive approach. The research is built on different customer and business partner involvement theories and the triple bottom line theory. Semi-structured interviews have been conducted as primary data collection. Additionally, the data has been supplemented by secondary data in the form of company documents such as sustainability reports. Afterwards, the data has been analysed qualitatively by thematic analysis and by the SDG assessment tool.  Findings – The results have shown that a mixture of smart service tools, stakeholder and customer communication can achieve customers and business partners' involvement in creating a cascading garment flow. Additionally, the findings offer an insight into the potential contribution of the SDG goal achievement, which is showing that the digitalised PSSs involving customers and business partners in the cascading flow can potentially obtain sustainable performance.  Practical implications & Research limitations – The cascading garment flow as the Closed Loop Goal 3 in CE is still a relatively unexplored area. However, the implementation is essential for sustainable performance and development. Therefore, it is suggested that other issues within the cascading garment flow should be investigated. Additionally, this research was mainly districted by the smaller selection of literature of former research, which did not offer much support.

The purpose of this study is to investigate what effect COVID-19 has had on the buyer-supplier relationship (BSR) in the ready-made garment (RMG) supply chain (SC) - focusing mainly on the Bangladeshi supplier point of view, but with a complementary perspective of the buyer. As the area is new and relatively unexplored, there is a gap in previous literature and research. It has not previously been studied how COVID-19 affected the relationship between buyer and supplier in the RMG SC. This study aims to narrow this gap. In this study, a qualitative research strategy was adopted, emphasizing words rather than quantification in the data collection and analysis. An inductive approach was used, starting from collecting data, where theories and literature are proposed towards the end of the research process as a result of interviews. A narrative state of the art review of literature was conducted to provide a comprehensive and unbiased review. Semi-structured in-depth interviews with Bangladeshi supplier managers were conducted over Zoom or Teams. The empirical data were coded in first-order concepts, second-order concepts, and aggregate level through the qualitative research program Nvivo. Four main second-order concepts could be identified from the interviews with the supplier side. The codes and empirical data were then analyzed through a developed analysis model based on the Conceptual Model of Social Capital. The effects that COVID-19 has had on BSR from a Bangladeshi supplier perspective are discussed and presented.

Die exakte Kenntnis vom Materialverhalten und speziell von lokalen Flächenmasseschwankungen der textilen Flächen ist Voraussetzung für eine Verbesserung der Produktentwicklung und für eine hohe Qualitätsverarbeitung in der Konfektionsindustrie. Dieser Fakt ist ebenfalls für die zunehmende Anwendung im Bereich der Simulationsberechnungen von erheblicher Bedeutung. Der Wandel von 2D-CAD- zu 3D-CAD-Systemen führt in der Bekleidungsindustrie zur zwingenden Berücksichtigung der Materialeigenschaften. Aufgrund des Montageprozesses zeigen die konfektionierten textilen Flächen im Vergleich zu unkonfektionierten textilen Flächen ein anderes Erscheinungsbild. Mehrlagige Gewebe (infolge einer Naht, einer Einlage oder eines Futterstoffes) beeinflussen das Biegeverhalten und das Fallverhalten der textilen Flächen erheblich. Zur Bestimmung der Biegesteifigkeit ist seit Jahrzehnten das manuell zu bedienende Prüfgerät nach dem Cantilever-Verfahren das Bekannteste. Die eigenen Untersuchungen bestätigen, dass das Prüfgerät viele Mängel hat, welche die Genauigkeit und die Reproduzierbarkeit der Messergebnisse wesentlich beeinflussen. Im Rahmen dieser Arbeit wird ein neues Biegesteifigkeitsprüfgerät (ACPM 200) entwickelt, um eine optimale Genauigkeit und hohe Reproduzierbarkeit der Messergebnisse zu erfassen. Eine neue Methode zur Ermittlung des Einflusses der Naht auf die Biegesteifigkeit einer größeren textilen Fläche ist in der Arbeit vorhanden, um die exakte Beschreibung des realen Verhaltens von textilen Bekleidungsprodukten zu ermitteln. Die Simulation des Biegeverhaltens textiler Flächen ohne und mit vertikaler Naht wird mit Hilfe der FEM durchgeführt. Abschließend wird eine neue Prüfnorm vorgestellt, welche die Biegesteifigkeit von textilen Flächen mit lokalen Flächenmasseschwankungen mittels des neuen Biegesteifigkeitsprüfgerätes ACPM 200 beinhaltet. / Bending stiffness and Drapeability are essential material parameters for simulating textile and clothing products. Due to assembling processes garments are showing different appearances through modelling than textile fabrics. This is based on stiffening, which is caused by assembling process and local variations within material’s mass throughout the fabric. Since decades the manual bending stiffness testing device, which is based on Cantilever method, has been known. This device is insufficient because of irregular feed speed of bending sample, the visual determination of reaching and reading the bending length, the little reading precision of the measurable slide (half Millimetre) and the form of the front edge of the sample does not stay linear. Obtaining an exact evaluation of this sample edge is not possible with this device. Extensive experiments have confirmed that these deficits influence the accuracy and the reproduction of the results in a high degree. To remedy these deficits and to obtain an exact description of the material’s behaviour in order to achieve an optimal modelling of the clothing products is the new bending stiffness testing device (ACPM 200) at the ITB of TU Dresden developed. Within the investigations a new method for determining the influence of the seam on the bending stiffness of the adjacent textile fabric will be introduced. The Influence of seams on the drapability of textile fabric is investigated. A static model of Fabric with and without vertical seams is analysed with using the finite element method (FEM).

Denna studie undersöker vilka faktorer i grenen på babyleggings som kan komma att påverkapassformen. En marknadsundersökning visar att ett flertal leggings erhåller passformsproblem i grenen bak. Få studier har gjorts kring barnplagg och passform, därmed jämförs leggings från marknaden mot leggings konstruerade utifrån litteratur för att finna konstruktionsmässiga likheter och skillnader. Genom digitalisering av marknadens fysiska plagg kunde grenkurvorna tydligt jämföras mot litteraturens konstruktioner och tillsammans medavprovningar samt prototypframtagning kunde slutsatser dras. Resultatet visade på stora skillnader där marknadens plagg hade en bättre passform och anknytning till målgruppenskroppsutformning. Dock fanns passformsproblem i form av en nedåtdragande midjelinje bak och dragningar i sidan. Detta kunde knytas till en konstruktion med en djup grenkurva och stor lutning. Även en mindre lutad gren tillsammans med en grund kurva gav oönskadpassform. Resultatet visade även att grensträckan inte är en påverkande faktor, utan formplaceringen i grenkurvan. Studiens resultat applicerades och vidareutvecklade litteraturens konstruktion som mynnade ut i ett grundmönster. Konstruktionen kommer att vara till hjälp för företag som kan använda den i kommunikationen med leverantörer för att minska på prototypframtagningen. / This thesis investigates factors which may influence the fit of the back rise in baby leggings. Market research showed that a majority had issues regarding fit of the back rise. There’s no studies made regarding children´s clothes and fit, therefore leggings from the market has been compared to patterns in literature to find deviations and similarities. With digitalization of the market’s leggings the curvature of the back rise could be compared to those made from literature. Together with fittings and production of prototypes conclusions could be made. The result showed significant deviations where the market’s leggings overall obtained the most pleasing fit and body-to- pattern relationship. Fitting problems was found at the waistline back which created a concave line and pulling was found at the side seams. This was connected to a pattern with a deep curve and significantly tilted back rise. It was found that the curve depth and tilt of the back rise had a vast influence on the garment fit, rather than the length. The conclusions were used to create a basic pattern for baby leggings that companies can utilize in the communication with suppliers to minimize the number of prototypes.

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Den textila industrin är en av världens största industrier, en resurskrävande industri med komplicerade och förorenande processer. Processer som innefattar flera olika steg, från råmaterial till färdig produkt. Detta gäller för alla textila produkter vare sig det handlar om klädesplagg inom fast fashion, eller teknisk textila produkter. Varje steg i processen har en inverkan på miljön och kan även ske på olika geografiska platser runt om i världen. Fast fashion-industrin karaktäriseras av korta produktlivslängder, hög instabilitet och låga priser, vilket direkt kopplas till negativ miljöpåverkan. Enligt konsumenter är kvaliteten på klädesplagg idag bristfällig och det är en stor anledning till varför många använder sina plagg endast ett fåtal gånger. Denna studie undersöker om och hur man kan identifiera livslängden på fyra olika grövre trikåkvaliteter, samt undersöka om förbättringsförslag kan ges för att öka livslängden på dessa. Undersökningen har innefattat kvantitativa metoder genom en enkätstudie där 100 personer deltagit, samt standardiserade testmetoder. I enkätundersökningen fick respondenterna redogöra kvalitetsbrister och användarbeteende. Detta har fungerat som riktlinjer till en metodplan för att simulera användning. Enkätens resultat visade att störst kvalitetsbrister och anledning till att plagg slutar användas främst berodde på grund av noppbildning, slitage genom nötning och dimensionsförändringar. Därmed har metodval för standardiserade tester valts inom dessa parametrar. Detta med 15 tvättcykler mellan testningarna för att simulera två års användning. Mätningar har även jämförts mot kvaliteternas kravspecifikation. Testernas resultat visade att samtliga kvaliteter har en bra beständighet mot nötning, i förhållande till dess kravspecifikation. Samma gällde för resultaten inom dimensionsstabilitet, dock med mycket varierande dimensionsförändringar på olika områden. Vid test av benägenhet till att bilda noppor, klarade endast hälften av kvaliteterna kravspecifikationens villkor. Dessa resultat gäller både innan och efter 15 tvättcykler. Förbättringsförslag för en förhöjd kvalitetsstandard, därmed förlängd livslängd, var svårt bestämma utifrån den information till kvaliteterna som fanns att tillgå. Resultat visade att fibertyp, fibertjocklek, spinnmetod, garnkonstruktion, bindning, masklängd samt delning på stickmaskin är alla parametrar som avgör slutproduktens kvalitet. Olika tekniker för samtliga parametrar medför olika egenskaper som bestämmer slutkvaliteten. I brist på information om värden för nämnda parametrar var förbättringsförslag ej möjliga att bestämma. / The textile industry is one of the world's largest industries, a resource-intensive industry with complicated and polluting processes. Processes that include several different steps, from raw material to final product. Which applies for all textile products, whether it is clothing in fast fashion or other textile products. Each step in the process has an impact on the environment and many of them take place indifferent geographical locations around the world. The fast-fashion industry is characterized by short product lifetimes, high instability, and lower prices, which directly links to negative environmental impacts. According to consumers, the quality of today's clothing has a major deficiency and is a major reason why many people only use their garments a few times before discarding them. This study examines how to identify the lifespan of four different coarser knitted sweaters, but also investigate if it is possible to provide improvement suggestions on how to increase the longevity. The project includes quantitative methods through a survey which has been done by 100 people, and standardized tests. Within the survey the respondents were asked to report quality deficiencies and care behavior. Which has served as guidelines for choice of methods to simulate use of clothing. The results of the survey showed that greatest quality deficiencies and reasons why garments stop being used were mainly due to pilling formation, wear due to abrasion and dimensional changes. Thus, choices of methods for standardized tests were chosen to test within these parameters. This with 15 wash cycles between tests to simulate two years of use. Results have also been compared to the garment requirement specifications. The test results showed that all garment samples had good resistance to abrasion, in relation to the requirement specifications. The same applies to the results within the dimensional stability, however, dimensional changes vary a lot in different areas. The results apply both before and after 15 wash cycles. Suggestions for improvement for an increased quality standard, for increased longevity, were difficult to determine based on the limited information provided regarding the garments. Results showed that fiber type, fiber thickness, spinning method, yarn construction, knit structure, loop size and gauge of the knitting machine are all parameters that influence the quality of the final product. Different techniques for all parameters result in different properties that determine the final quality and the longevity for the product. The lack of specific information needed for the parameters mentioned, suggestions for improvement were not possible to determine.

Cities all over the world have increasingly covered the topics about sustainable development. In the recent years, the garment industry has presented responsibilities and engagements towards sustainable development. Environmental awareness has increased in most societies. There is no doubt that consumers are demanding for more sustainable measures and this increases pressure on apparel enterprises to take actions and implement policies in order to secure their business. In terms of the garment industry, there is a rise of sustainably consciousness in the past decades.This leads to the purpose of this research project, which is to identify the key factors that affect consumer attitudes and behaviour regarding sustainability issues in textile industry, with a consumer study in Hong Kong. Key objectives in this research relate to consumer awareness of sustainable development aspects in garment purchasing decisions. This is a qualitative consumer study with an exploratory approach. Hong Kong citizens who were born in the 1990s were selected to join the two focus groups. This is because this generation is consumption-oriented, and also more conscious to sustainable development. It can be concluded that numerous factors and considerations that play an essential role in consumers’ purchasing decision in garment industry. Moreover, consumers perceive that several parties are responsible for being sustainable as this has been important in this industry.