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The emergence of the Smart Textiles field opens possibilities for designers to combine traditional surface fabrication techniques with advanced technology in the design process. The purpose of this work is to develop knowledge on interactive knitted textiles as materials for architecture and to do so through practice-based design research. The thesis formulates a research program in order to frame the design explorations, in which scale and material expression are major placeholders. Consequently, Relational Textiles for Space Design is defined as a research program with focus on surface aesthetics and the program is illustrated by design experiments exploring the expressiveness of light, heat and movement as design materials. As a result of the research presented in this thesis, a new methodological framework for interactive textile design is proposed. The framework defines field of reference and frame of reference as basic notions in surface design. These notions form a basic frame used to revise and present the methods behind the design examples Knitted Light, Touching Loops, Designing with Heat, Tactile Glow, Repetition and Textile Forms in Movement. Relating the space of Relational Textiles for Space Design to existing surface methodology in architecture gives rise to new issues that need to be addressed. For which levels of the design process will these textiles be integrated? The last chapter reflects on the role of Relational Textiles for Space Design as possible methods or expressions in the existing space of surface prototyping.

Fashion designers are presented with a range of different principles for pattern cutting and the interest in this area has grown rapidly over the past few years, both due to the publication of a number of works dealing with the subject in different ways and the fact that a growing number of designers emphasise cutting in their practices. Although a range of principles and concepts for pattern cutting are presented from different perspectives, the main body of these systems, traditional as well as contemporary, are predominately based on a quantified approximation of the body. As a consequence, the connection of existing models for pattern construction to the dynamic expression of the body or the biomechanic function of the body is problematic. This work explores and proposes an alternative model for pattern cutting that, unlike the existing models, takes as its point of origin the actual, variable body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles in order to create alternative expression and functions. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the proposed model for cutting garments is based on a qualitative approximation of the body, visualised through balance lines and key biomechanic points. Based on some key principles found in the works by Geneviève Sevin-Doering, the proposed model for cutting is developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. The result of a proposed model is an alternative principle for dressmaking that challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, pattern making and the body, opening up for new expressions in dress and functional possibilities for wearing.

Textile materials and textile design are a part of countless products in our surroundings, as well as of diverse design fields and industries, with very different material traditions and working methods. Textile materials and industry have undergone many changes during recent decades, in terms of how and where textiles are produced, and what textiles can be and do; in much the same way, the design practices that textiles are involved in have also developed. What these diverse and evolving design contexts in which textiles are involved in have in common is that textile materials and textile design decisions somehow meet the rest of the design during a design process. The aim of this thesis is to add to our understanding of the relationship between textiles and products in the design process, and to explore the roles that textile design plays when designing textile products, the roles they can come to play when textiles become more complex and offer new means of functionality and expressiveness, for example through smart textile technology. This thesis presents two types of result: Firstly, descriptions of textile product design processes that highlight the wide range of roles that textiles can play in the textile product design processes of today, accentuate how textile materials and design decisions can influence both what can be designed and the design process, and describe some of the additional complexities that come with designing and designing with smart textiles. These examples are presented in the appended papers, and are the outcome of an observation of students who were designing textile products and collaborative, practice-based design research projects. Secondly, this thesis presents a theoretical framework which aims to offer a broad perspective on the relationship between textile design and the product design process, with the intention of opening up for reflection on how we design, and can design, with textiles. The framework focuses on how textile design decisions and textile materials participate in the process, and to what degree they influence the development of the design; this includes methods, questions, etc. that can be used to explore and define this dynamic. One of the main points of the framework is the importance of the textile influence in textile product design processes; the specific qualities of textiles as a design material - the considerations, possibilities, and challenges, which influence both the design of the product and the process of designing it. This includes not only the textiles in the final design, but also the textiles that, in other ways, feature in this process.

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This thesis aims to discuss ways of opening up the design brief when designing for extreme environments such as intensive care units and remand prisons. Focusing on “designials” (fundamental forms of design being), the methodology intends to illustrate the fact that objects may directly impinge upon certain “existentials” (fundamental forms of human being). Moreover, the method is a form of critical design that enables designers to shift focus, from analysis of the functionality of a design in use, e.g. by performing a functional analysis, to analysis of the form of being human that a design in use defines. More importantly, this thesis considers what may happen if we do not take into account this aspect of design; in other words, the “dark side” of design thinking. / <p>Editor: Lars Hällnäs (LHS), Swedish Shcool of Textiles</p>

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The need to satisfy the increasing global demand for textile and clothing material due to population growth and changes in fashion trends have led to the manufacturing of short life span textiles. Current fabrics such as cotton and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) all have deep environmental impacts. This study examines Polylactic acid (PLA) fabric derived from corn as a contending replacement for cotton and polyethylene terephthalate. The use phase has been identified as the dominant contributor to environmental impacts and consequently this research has focused on how the laundry regime (wash performance) affects the life expectancy and the mechanical properties of PLA, PET and Cotton. This study excludes daily wear, dirt and stains. By testing the constituent fabrics after each laundry regime, the results showed a more significant level of impact on cotton than PLA fabric in different laundry treatments with or without softener. There was no effect on PET. The load-extension behaviour showed that PLA and cotton withstood ten laundry cycles before showing any significant signs of damage; however, PET fabric retained its load-extension behaviour beyond 50 laundry cycles. From a practical standpoint, the result of this study suggests that tumble-drying should be avoided; however, the use of softeners during the laundry and air-drying seems to provide stability for PLA and PET fabrics. The influence on the cotton fabric was more from the drying process than the use or absence of softener, buttressing the fact that tumble-drying should be avoided if possible. The life expectancy of PLA fabric showed a lower lifetime (35 washes/lifecycle) compared to PET and cotton (42 and 43 washes/lifecycle respectively). With these results, a comparative lifecycle assessment was conducted during the life expectancy and after a typical school t-shirt use of 75 laundry regimes, PLA offered environmental benefits compared to PET and Cotton. The result also revealed that the environmental impact of cotton decreased by 2%, PET decreased by about 1.2% while PLA increased by 3% when the laundry lifetime was increased to 75 wash cycles. The results obtained in this study showed that enhancing the fabric to increase its laundry lifetime does not automatically lessen the environmental impacts. Nevertheless, it has proven that even a small rise in the lifetime of PLA fabric can make it comparable and competitive with PET and cotton. In addition, the similarities in properties with PET makes PLA a valuable substitute, with a sustainable low environmental burden. In comparison to cotton (Energy Demand 36.5%, Water Consumption 53%, and Global warming potential Contribution 43%), PLA (Energy Demand 28.5%, Water Consumption 21% and Global warming potential Contribution 22%), demonstrates a better alternative in all aspects and is recommended as a suitable replacement due to its potentially low water and energy use, and CO2 emission.