No description available.

Yes / Laboratory experiments have been carried out to investigate wave damping over the seabed, in which the excess pore pressure and free surface elevations are synchronously measured for examining the wave-induced soil dynamics and wave kinematics. Two types of soil, namely fine sand and silt, are tested to examine the role of soil in the wave damping. Observation of experiments shows that (i) soil liquefaction takes place for some tests with silty bed and soil particles suspend into the water layer when the bed is made of silt; (ii) sand ripples can be generated for experiments with sand bed. Measurements reveal that the wave damping greatly depends on the soil dynamic responses to wave loading and the wave damping mechanism over the silty seabed differs from that over the sand bed. On the one hand, the wave damping rate is greatly increased, when soil liquefaction occurs in the silty bed. On the other hand, the presence of sand ripples generated by oscillatory flow in the sand bed experiments also increases the wave damping to some extent. Furthermore, experimental results show that soil particle suspension in the silt bed test contributes to the wave damping. Theoretical analysis is presented to enhance discussions on the wave damping. The theoretical calculations demonstrate that the wave damping is mainly induced by the shear stress in the boundary layer for the cases when no liquefaction occurs. While for the cases when soil liquefaction takes place, the viscous flow in the liquefied layer contributes most towards to the wave damping. / the National Science Fund for Distinguished Young Scholars (Grant No. 51425901), the National Key Research and Development Program of China (2017YFC1404200), the Marine Renewable Energy Research Project of State Oceanic Administration (GHME2015GC01), and the 111 Project (Grant No. B12032)

Le développement des systèmes houlomoteurs ainsi que la gestion du littoral reposent sur une bonne compréhension des mécanismes liés aux interactions houle-structure. Dans cette thèse, nous nous intéressons à l'étude d'un champ de structures flexibles soumises à des ondes de surface, en vue de développer un système qui puisse à la fois atténuer les vagues et absorber l'énergie qui leur est associée de manière efficace. Les résultats présentés se basent autour d'expériences réalisées dans des installations de petite échelle, dans lesquelles la disposition spatiale des objets flexibles est le principal paramètre étudié. Dans un premier temps, nous caractérisons notre champ modèle afin d'évaluer l'influence de divers paramètres (configuration, flexibilité, fréquences des vagues) sur la distribution de l'énergie dans le système. Sur la base de ces résultats, nous développons ensuite un modèle d'interférences permettant de décrire les observations globales du système à partir de paramètres locaux connus, associés à une portion unitaire du champ. Ce modèle nous sert ensuite d'outil pour l'exploration d'une multitude de configurations spatiales, afin de déterminer le choix optimal vis-à-vis de l'atténuation et de l'absorption des vagues incidentes. Enfin, une campagne de mesures supplémentaire est utilisée afin d'expliquer les résultats obtenus avec le modèle et d'identifier les principes sous-jacents à cette optimisation / Understanding the mechanisms involved in wave-structure interactions is of high interest for the development of efficient wave energy harvesters as well as for coastal management. In this thesis, we study the interactions of surface waves with a model array of slender flexible structures, in view of developing an efficient system for both attenuating and harvesting wave energy. The presented results are based around experimental investigations, by means of small scale facilities, in which the spatial arrangement of the flexible objects is the key parameter of study. The model array is first characterised by evaluating the role played by various parameters (configuration, flexibility, wave frequency) on the energy distribution in our system. Following these first observations, an interference model is then developed in order to describe the observed global effects of the array on both the wave field and the blade dynamics, based on known local parameters of a unit item of the array. This model then serves as a tool for exploring many possible array configurations, in order to determine the optimal choice regarding both the attenuation and the absorption of the imposed waves. A final experimental study is presented, in which the key results from the interference model are evaluated and the underlying principles of array optimisation are identified