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Men's neckties of the twentieth century: A history, semiotic analysis, and data classification system

The necktie has remained throughout the twentieth century as an essential component of masculine attire evolving in shape, style, and meaning. To further understand the intricacies of this notable accessory, a thorough review of the years 1900 to 1983 was undertaken utilizing three types of resources; a fashion journal (Men's Wear), a catalog (Sears), and necktie collections (Metropolitan Museum of Art, Smithsonian, and Fashion Institute of Technology). / Qualitative and quantitative analyses were undertaken. Since each mode of inquiry exhibited inherent strengths and weaknesses, the combination of methodologies provided for the best, most accurate analysis. The quantitative investigation was based on the examination of 5,396 necktie samples obtained from the three resources. These examples were evaluated on date, length, width, fiber, context, source, pattern, motif, and construction. The qualitative data was extracted from all obtainable Men's Wear issues from 1900 to 1983. Semiotic analysis was also utilized to interpret changes in the meaning and symbolism of the necktie throughout various historical time frames. / The qualitative historical review determined that there were four common, tied neckwear styles at the turn of the century, Imperials, De Joinvilles, English Squares, and Four-in-Hands. Neckties were also knit or woven and had multiple blade terminations. Various novelty neckties also appeared. Quantitative analysis presented frequency and occurence seriations to the various features and forms of neckwear. This information in conjunction with the qualitative literature allowed for the development of a system for data classification. The dating process consisted of fiber identification, determinations of knit or woven, shape, length, width, and a review construction and design elements. / Semiotic interpretations were based on Peirce's triad of symbol, icon and index. The necktie as a sign system has changed markedly throughout the twentieth century. From the 1940's onward, the necktie has become the phallus of men's wear. It has also served as a billboard and as a symbol of wealth, belongingness, and rebellion. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 56-11, Section: A, page: 4444. / Major Professor: Carol Avery. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1995.

Identiferoai:union.ndltd.org:fsu.edu/oai:fsu.digital.flvc.org:fsu_77581
ContributorsHuun, Kathleen Marie-Anne., Florida State University
Source SetsFlorida State University
LanguageEnglish
Detected LanguageEnglish
TypeText
Format747 p.
RightsOn campus use only.
RelationDissertation Abstracts International

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