Silk occupies a unique position as a textile fibre with a rare combination of
beauty and strength. Production and processing of silk is labour intensive
which leads to high cost and limited production of the silk fibre.
Unfortunately the high cost of silk makes it unaffordable for many
consumers; therefore mixed yarn fabrics could be constructed in order to
lower the price of the fabric, without changing the unique properties of the
silk negatively.
The aim of this study was to evaluate and compare the properties of
Gonometa postica silk fabric with the properties of mixed yarn fabrics
consisting of Gonometa postica silk weft on a wool warp, and Gonometa
postica silk weft on an acrylic warp. This is done in order to determine
which of the wool or the acrylic create a more suitable mixed yarn fabric
with the Gonometa postica silk.
Standard methods were used to evaluate the abrasion resistance (ASTM
4966), tensile strength and elongation (ISO 13934), stiffness (BS 3356 ),
crease recovery (AATCC 66), fabric thickness (BS 2544), dimensional
change (AATCC 99) and moisture regain (ASTM 2654). Analysis of
variance supported the interpretation of the results of the tests.
The Gonometa postica silk textile fabric has relatively good abrasion
resistance, with a mean value of 28 750 rubs necessary to break two yarns. The Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp test fabric showed very good
abrasion resistance with a mean value of 51 000 rubs required to break two
yarns. And the Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp test fabric also
showed relatively good abrasion resistance, although it was lower than the
other test fabrics with a mean value of 25 197 rubs needed to break two
yarns. The Gonometa postica silk test fabric had the largest weight loss,
while the Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric had the smallest
weight loss.
Tensile strength and displacement were measured and the Gonometa postica
silk fabric had the highest mean maximum load necessary to break the silk
weft yarns of 492.317 N and the mean displacement at maximum load was
39.048 mm. The Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp fabric had the
lowest mean maximum load that the silk weft yarns could carry before break
at 347.910 N and the displacement was 34.465 mm.
The bending lengths of all the samples were small enough to indicate that it
has good draping qualities, considering the thickness of the fabrics.
The Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric showed the best crease
recovery especially in the warp direction (145°), while the Gonometa postica
silk fabric had the worst crease recovery especially in the warp direction
(128°).
The Gonometa postica silk weft/Gonometa postica warp fabric was thinner
than the Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric and the Gonometa
postica silk weft/acrylic warp fabric. The moisture regain of the Gonometa postica silk fabric was found to be
13%, while the Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric had a moisture
regain of 11% and the Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp fabric had a
moisture regain of 8.6%.
The Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric and the Gonometa postica
silk weft/acrylic warp fabric had no shrinkage in the warp directions. The
Gonometa postica silk fabric showed more shrinkage in the warp direction
than in the weft direction. No residual shrinkage was found.
This lead to the conclusion that the wool would be the best fibre to mix with
the Gonometa postica silk as it enhanced some of the properties of the silk,
without influencing the properties negatively.
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:netd.ac.za/oai:union.ndltd.org:ufs/oai:etd.uovs.ac.za:etd-09172008-151157 |
| Date | 17 September 2008 |
| Creators | Nel, Jana Frannie |
| Contributors | Prof HJH Steyn |
| Publisher | University of the Free State |
| Source Sets | South African National ETD Portal |
| Language | en-uk |
| Detected Language | English |
| Type | text |
| Format | application/pdf |
| Source | http://etd.uovs.ac.za//theses/available/etd-09172008-151157/restricted/ |
| Rights | unrestricted, I hereby certify that, if appropriate, I have obtained and attached hereto a written permission statement from the owner(s) of each third party copyrighted matter to be included in my thesis, dissertation, or project report, allowing distribution as specified below. I certify that the version I submitted is the same as that approved by my advisory committee. I hereby grant to University Free State or its agents the non-exclusive license to archive and make accessible, under the conditions specified below, my thesis, dissertation, or project report in whole or in part in all forms of media, now or hereafter known. I retain all other ownership rights to the copyright of the thesis, dissertation or project report. I also retain the right to use in future works (such as articles or books) all or part of this thesis, dissertation, or project report. |
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