The primary purpose of this study was to document the changing styles of sportswear worn by American women for bicycling, swimming, and horseback riding from 1881 through 1910. Other objectives were to determine the rate at which style changes occurred, if the patterns of development were similar for the three sports, if the data differed according to source, and if women's sportswear influenced changes in other social roles. / During the late Victorian and Edwardian period American women shifted from passive to active sports participation. This study of the changes in women's sportswear was documented by extant garments (41), fashion magazine and catalog illustrations (403), and photographs (64), recorded by computer and displayed by seriation. / The suit was the most popular outfit for bicycling and horseback riding. It peaked in popularity for bicycling in the late 1890s and later became a popular style for streetdress. There was evidence of skirt hems rising, becoming less full and more practical in all three sports. The skirt became divided or had bloomers underneath for bicycling. All swimwear was bifurcated, and a quarter of the bicycling bottoms were bifurcated. An occasional bloomer, trouser, and even jodhpur was worn in the later part of the period without a skirt to conceal it. Thirty percent of the riding habits were for riding astride, which required bifurcation. / The evidence shows that sportswear styles exhibited a moderate degree of change throughout the period. The most dramatic style changes occurred in bicycling sportswear. Bicycle sportswear changed at the fastest rate and appears to have influenced and been influenced by street dress fashions. Swimwear and horseback riding styles were more functional throughout the period and changed at a slower pace. The data indicate no similarity in patterns of development for bicycling, swimming, and horseback riding sportswear. Chi square analysis showed significant differences among sources. Photographs and extant garments generally showed less traditional styles than illustrations regarding the use of bifurcated garments, skirts and blouses, and tunics. Women's sports became an instrument of social change, modifying and defining woman's larger role in society. The new role was reflected in the clothing worn for sport. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 51-09, Section: A, page: 3001. / Major Professor: Carol Avery. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1990.
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:fsu.edu/oai:fsu.digital.flvc.org:fsu_78293 |
| Contributors | Grossbard, Judy Elaine., Florida State University |
| Source Sets | Florida State University |
| Language | English |
| Detected Language | English |
| Type | Text |
| Format | 234 p. |
| Rights | On campus use only. |
| Relation | Dissertation Abstracts International |
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