Throughout the ages makeup has been used to hide blemishes, blur imperfections and provide an oil free look of the skin. In the past few years, more attention has been given to face powders ingredients as some of them may be associated with health risks as well as impact the environment. Therefore, there is a need for new safe cosmetic ingredients with improved performance. It has previously been shown that Upsalite®, a mesoporous magnesium carbonate with an extraordinary high surface area and narrow pore size distribution, has great potential to replace other powder ingredients used as fillers and absorbers in powder cosmetics. In this work functional and physical attributes of Upsalite in powder cosmetics have been further investigated to generate comparative data for claim support. Oil uptake, speed and interaction were investigated and compared with other powders. In addition, a method to quantify transparency and blurring effect of Upsalite compared to other materials has been developed and applied. It was shown that Upsalite has exceptional absorption capacity of oil and is able to absorb oil much quicker than silica and other cosmetic powders. Preferential interaction with polar compared to non-polar oils was found and the dual interaction of Upsalite with oil and moisture was further substantiated. Transparency studies of Upsalite revealed that Upsalite is more transparent on a glass substrate but was found opaquer on skin than talc and mica. This is explained by that its measured refractive index of 1.62 is slightly higher leading to a somewhat improved coverage. The blurring effect study showed that Upsalite has a blurring index in the range of the best existing cosmetic powders, improving blurring index of mica, talc and BN-12 by up to 60% and can replace silica and microplastics such as Nylon-12. Upsalite was found to visually blur imperfections without looking white.
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:UPSALLA1/oai:DiVA.org:uu-454482 |
| Date | January 2021 |
| Creators | Shebalin, Ivan |
| Publisher | Uppsala universitet, Fasta tillståndets fysik |
| Source Sets | DiVA Archive at Upsalla University |
| Language | English |
| Detected Language | English |
| Type | Student thesis, info:eu-repo/semantics/bachelorThesis, text |
| Format | application/pdf |
| Rights | info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
| Relation | UPTEC K, 1650-8297 ; 21050 |
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