Pattern grading is a complex process which systematically increases or decreases the size of a master pattern. Two widely accepted methods of grading are track grading, which conceptually divides the pattern into horizontal and vertical segments, and radial grading, which conceptually divides the pattern into triangular segments. Techniques for accomplishing the process of grading include hand, mechanical grading machine, and computer. The purpose of this research was to investigate the problems associated with the distortion of fit and style sense that occur as a result of the pattern grading process. The study focused on changes that occurred in the upper body areas of the neckline and armseye.
There were four major components to the research. The scouting expedition involved interviews with two retailers and two alterationists and established the existence of problems with the fit and style sense of fitted ready-to-wear garments. In the second part of the research 31 retailers of bridal and formalwear responded to a survey pertaining to the nature and frequency of customer complaints and the need for alterations. A pilot study of a graded home sewing pattern and a manufacturer’s production pattern was conducted to determine if there were differences in the location and amount of grade increments.
The last component of the research involved a case study of two commercial home sewing patterns. Graded pattern pieces were measured to determine if there were differences in the grade rule systems used by the pattern companies and the grade rule system used by the researcher. Five apparel professionals evaluated bodices constructed from the graded patterns to determine if changes identified by measuring graded pattern pieces could be perceived.
The persons interviewed for the scouting expedition indicated that most gowns need some form of alteration. The most frequently mentioned areas needing attention were the shoulder, neckline, and bust. The retailer survey revealed larger sizes needed more alterations and the neckline was noted as a frequent problem area. The pilot study revealed differences in graded increments in both the lengthwise and crosswise directions. The objective evaluation of the case study revealed the three grade rule systems evaluated did not include the same number or amounts of grade increment. Evaluators perceived changes in fit and style sense within one size of the master pattern. Results of the study suggest that inconsistency in grade rule application may account for problems with fit and style distortion of graded patterns. / Ph. D.
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:VTETD/oai:vtechworks.lib.vt.edu:10919/27977 |
| Date | 06 June 2008 |
| Creators | Murphey, Ina Crouch |
| Contributors | Clothing and Textiles, Norton, Marjorie, Purdy, Rita S., Mancini, Jay A., Cloud, Rinn M., Moore, Carolyn L. |
| Publisher | Virginia Tech |
| Source Sets | Virginia Tech Theses and Dissertation |
| Language | English |
| Detected Language | English |
| Type | Dissertation, Text |
| Format | x, 222 leaves, BTD, application/pdf, application/pdf |
| Rights | In Copyright, http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC/1.0/ |
| Relation | OCLC# 31252296, LD5655.V856_1993.M876.pdf |
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