The major purpose of this study is focused on the characteristics of the breaker and the impulse caused by wave breaking. Two-dimensional surface regular gravity water waves propagating on a gentle sloping bottom are considered and the consecutively temporal-spatial evolution of wave traveling form deep water to shallow water is also investigated.
Two perturbation parameters, bottom slope and the deep water wave amplitude , proposed by Chen et al.(1992~2005), are introduced in this problem. Also, two different systems in fluid mechanics are used and the theoretical results are corrected to order , including nonlinear quantities, in both of Eulerian and Lagrangian systems. Considering the point of view that the horizontal velocity of a specified fluid particle is equal to the wave celerity while the wave begins to break, some important physical phenomena, such as the evolution of wave profile, the trajectory of fluid particle, and the water wave pressure, are described in this analytical analysis. Furthermore, the wave length, wave height, water depth and wave steepness of breaking wave are solved. To modify the insufficiency of former semi-empirical formula for the impulse due to wave breaking, a theoretical formula is proposed by integrating the resulting water wave pressure form mean still water level to free surface.
Previous experimental studies are employed to verify the theoretical results. For wave for a further verification on the characteristics of wave breaking, some measurements on the movement of fluid particle, wave force and impulse wave conducted. Reasonable agreements can be found from the comparisons. It is concluded that consideration of wave nonlinearity is necessary while dealing with wave breaking problem.
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:NSYSU/oai:NSYSU:etd-0613107-213355 |
| Date | 13 June 2007 |
| Creators | Tseng, Wen-Jer |
| Contributors | T. W. Hsu, y. y. kuo, S. W. Twu, L. H. Huang, M. C. Lin, C. P. Lee, G. Y. Chen, Y. Y. Chen |
| Publisher | NSYSU |
| Source Sets | NSYSU Electronic Thesis and Dissertation Archive |
| Language | Cholon |
| Detected Language | English |
| Type | text |
| Format | application/pdf |
| Source | http://etd.lib.nsysu.edu.tw/ETD-db/ETD-search/view_etd?URN=etd-0613107-213355 |
| Rights | unrestricted, Copyright information available at source archive |
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