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Modelagem do clima de ondas e seus efeitos sobre as fei??es morfol?gicas costeiras no litoral setentrional do Rio Grande do Norte

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Previous issue date: 2013-11-25 / Coordena??o de Aperfei?oamento de Pessoal de N?vel Superior / This thesis presents the results of application of SWAN Simulating WAves Nearshore
numerical model, OF third generation, which simulates the propagation and dissipation of energy
from sea waves, on the north continental shelf at Rio Grande do Norte, to determine the wave
climate, calibrate and validate the model, and assess their potential and limitations for the region
of interest. After validation of the wave climate, the results were integrated with information
from the submarine relief, and plant morphology of beaches and barrier islands systems. On the
second phase, the objective was to analyze the evolution of the wave and its interaction with the
shallow seabed, from three transverse profiles orientation from N to S, distributed according to
the parallel longitudinal, X = 774000-W, 783000-W e 800000-W. Subsequently, it was were
extracted the values of directional waves and winds through all the months between november
2010 to november 2012, to analyze the impact of these forces on the movement area, and then
understand the behavior of the morphological variations according to temporal year variability.
Based on the results of modeling and its integration with correlated data, and planimetric
variations of Soledade and Minhoto beach systems and Ponta do Tubar?o and Barra do
Fernandes barrier islands systems, it was obtained the following conclusions: SWAN could
reproduce and determine the wave climate on the north continental shelf at RN, the results show
a similar trend for the measurements of temporal variations of significant height (HS, m) and the
mean wave period (Tmed, s); however, the results of parametric statistics were low for the
estimates of the maximum values in most of the analyzed periods compared data of PT 1 and PT
2 (measurement points), with alternation of significant wave heights, at times overrated with
occasional overlap of swell episodes. By analyzing the spatial distribution of the wave climate
and its interaction with the underwater compartmentalization, it was concluded that there is
interaction of wave propagation with the seafloor, showing change in significant heights
whenever it interacts with the seafloor features (beachrocks, symmetric and asymmetric
longitudinal dunes, paleochannel, among others) in the regions of outer, middle and inner shelf.
And finally, it is concluded that the study of the stability areas allows identifications of the most
unstable regions, confirming that the greatest range of variation indicates greater instability and
consequent sensitivity to hydrodynamic processes operating in the coastal region, with positive
or negative variation, especially at Ponta do Tubar?o and Barra do Fernandes barrier islands
systems, where they are more susceptible to waves impacts, as evidenced in retreat of the
shoreline / Esta tese apresenta os resultados da aplica??o do modelo num?rico SWAN Simulating
WAves Nearshore, de terceira gera??o, que a simula propaga??o e dissipa??o da energia das
ondas do mar, na plataforma continental setentrional do Rio Grande do Norte, com vista a
determinar o clima de ondas, calibrar e validar o modelo e aferir suas potencialidades e
limita??es para a regi?o de interesse. Ap?s a valida??o do clima de ondas os resultados foram
integrados com as informa??es do relevo submarino e morfologia em planta dos sistemas de
praias e ilhas barreiras. Nesta segunda fase, o objetivo foi analisar a evolu??o da onda e sua
intera??o com o fundo marinho raso a partir de tr?s perfis transversais de orienta??o de N para S,
distribu?dos conforme as paralelas longitudinais, X = 774000-W, 783000-W e 800000-W.
Posteriormente, extra?ram-se os valores direcionais de ondas e ventos ao longo de todos os meses
compreendidos entre novembro de 2010 a novembro de 2012, para analisar a incid?ncia destas
for?antes sobre a movimenta??o de ?rea para entender o comportamento das varia??es
morfol?gicas de acordo com a variabilidade temporal anual. Com base nos resultados da
modelagem e da sua integra??o com os dados correlacionados e das varia??es planim?tricas dos
sistemas praiais de Soledade e Minhoto e das ilhas barreiras Ponta do Tubar?o e Barra do
Fernandes, obteve-se as seguintes conclus?es: o SWAN conseguiu reproduzir e determinar o
clima de ondas para o litoral setentrional do RN, os resultados mostram tend?ncia semelhante
com as medidas nas varia??es temporais de altura significativa (HS, m) e per?odo m?dio de onda
(Tmed, s), entretanto, os resultados param?tricos das estat?sticas mostraram-se baixos para as
estimativas dos valores m?ximos, na maioria dos per?odos analisados em compara??o os dados
do PT 01 e PT 02 (pontos de medi??o), com altern?ncia das alturas significativas de ondas, em
alguns momentos sobrestimado com a sobreposi??o ocasional de epis?dios de ondula??o. Ao
analisar a distribui??o espacial do clima de ondas e sua intera??o com a compartimenta??o
submarina, concluiu-se que h? intera??o da propaga??o da onda com o fundo, evidenciando
altera??o nas alturas significativas sempre quando esta interage com as fei??es de fundo (rochas
praiais, dunas longitudinais sim?tricas e assim?tricas, paleocanal, dentre outros) existentes nas
regi?es das zonas da plataforma externa, m?dia e interna. E finalmente notou-se que
especialmente as ilhas de Ponta do Tubar?o e Barra do Fernandes, est?o mais sujeitas a
incid?ncia das ondas, causando o recuo da linha de costa; o estudo das ?reas de estabilidade
permitiu identificar as regi?es mais inst?veis, corroborando com o senso de que a maior
amplitude de varia??o indica maior instabilidade e consequente sensibilidade aos processos
hidrodin?micos atuantes na regi?o costeira, seja esta varia??o positiva ou negativa

Identiferoai:union.ndltd.org:IBICT/oai:repositorio.ufrn.br:123456789/18369
Date25 November 2013
CreatorsMatos, Maria de F?tima Alves de
ContributorsCPF:35385839191, http://buscatextual.cnpq.br/buscatextual/visualizacv.do?id=K4783253A6, Vital, Helenice, CPF:31481981404, http://lattes.cnpq.br/3595069999049968, Takiyama, Lu?s Roberto, CPF:06891457807, http://lattes.cnpq.br/4281201198002253, Pereira, Pedro de Souza, CPF:00875952496, PEREIRA, Pedro de Souza, Amaral, Ricardo Farias do, CPF:12714585434, http://lattes.cnpq.br/5120081491389865, Amaro, Venerando Eust?quio
PublisherUniversidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, Programa de P?s-Gradua??o em Geodin?mica e Geof?sica, UFRN, BR, Geodin?mica; Geof?sica
Source SetsIBICT Brazilian ETDs
LanguagePortuguese
Detected LanguageEnglish
Typeinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion, info:eu-repo/semantics/doctoralThesis
Formatapplication/pdf
Sourcereponame:Repositório Institucional da UFRN, instname:Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, instacron:UFRN
Rightsinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess

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