A multi-decadal survey program undertaken at the Collaroy-Narrabeen embayment in SE Australia identifies medium-term (~2-7 year) cycles of both erosion and accretion across the entire embayment ('beach oscillation') and at its two extremities ('beach rotation'). These cycles have been observed to respond to phase shifts in the El Ni??o/Southern Oscillation (ENSO). To investigate wave and climate controls of embayment variability in finer detail, this study combines historical surveys with 45 years of wave data from the ERA-40 reanalysis and four years of high-resolution beach measurements using RTK-GPS and image-derived survey techniques. ENSO and Southern Annular Mode (SAM) controls of wave variability in the Sydney region are first explored. In general, wave heights increase/decrease and wave directions become more easterly/southerly during La Ni??a/El Ni??o phases. A positive correlation is observed between the SAM and summer wave heights, and a negative correlation between the SAM and winter wave directions. Storm variability is observed to be modified by the ENSO, but not the SAM. In particular, La Ni??a phases are generally associated with longer duration, higher energy events from a more easterly direction when compared to those during El Ni??o phases. Wave controls of embayment variability are subsequently investigated. In the short-term (days - months), beach oscillation/rotation is observed to be the most dominant process, accounting for approx. 60%/20% of overall embayment variability. Beach oscillation is related to changes in wave height and storms, whereas beach rotation is related to changes in wave direction and/or wave period. An empirical model that estimates the beach response to individual storm events is developed. In the longer-term (months - years), beach rotation is observed to respond to both wave heights and directions. Larger waves are sheltered somewhat at the southern end, creating an apparent clockwise rotation under energetic wave conditions. Clockwise/anticlockwise rotations are also observed to follow southerly/easterly wave shifts at lags of up to 12 months. Comparisons between the ENSO and beach oscillation/rotation agree with previous observations that El Ni??o/La Ni??a phases are associated with an overall accretion/erosion and clockwise/anticlockwise rotation of the embayment. In general, the SAM shows little influence on embayment variability. While it is clear that beach oscillation is driven by cross-shore processes, to what extent beach rotation is a longshore and/or cross-shore phenomena requires further investigation.
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:ADTP/272466 |
| Date | January 2009 |
| Creators | Harley, Mitchell Dean, Civil & Environmental Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, UNSW |
| Publisher | Publisher:University of New South Wales. Civil & Environmental Engineering |
| Source Sets | Australiasian Digital Theses Program |
| Language | English |
| Detected Language | English |
| Rights | http://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/copyright, http://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/copyright |
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