The matching of colours on dyed fabric is an important task in the textile industry. The current method is based on the matching the visible reflectance spectrum to standard spectral libraries. In this study, the amount of dye on various wool and wool-blend fabric was measured using vibrational-spectroscopic techniques. FT-IR PAS and FT-Raman spectroscopy was used to analyse the following set of samples: woollen fabrics (supplied by CSIRO- Geelong, Australia), dyed with Lanasol dyes (Red 6G, Blue 3G and Yellow 4G) and wool/polyester fabrics (supplied by Ceiba-Geigy, Switzerland), dyed with Forosyn dyes (grey, yellow, green, brown, orange, red). A minimum of six spectra was recorded for each sample. The spectra recorded were consistent with those reported previously. FT-IR PA spectral data were block normalised with Y-mean centring and examined using Principle Component Analysis (PCA) and Partial Least Squares (PLS). Although PCA separates the woollen fabrics dyed with a combination of two colours, it does not do equally well for samples dyed with three colours. The dyed wool/ polyester blend samples appeared in a totally random fashion on the PCA plot. The PLS analysis of PA spectra of various ratios of dyes on woollen fabrics as well as wool/polyester blend was found to be a viable procedure and should be investigated further, perhaps with a broader set of data. FT-Raman spectra were examined using PCA and PLS. The best pre treatment for FT-Raman spectral data was found to be normalising followed by Y-mean centring. The PCA plots demonstrate that woollen samples are separated according to the dye ratios and that the presence or absence of some of the peaks is influenced by individual dyes. For example, the presence of the peak at 1430cm 1 is inversely related to the presence of blue dye on the fabric. The PLS resulted in SEE and SEP values of around 1 and 2 respectively indicating that the prediction of the dye ratios have not been very successful and suggesting that there was some problem with the measured values of the calibration set. PCA plots of wool/polyester fabrics dyed with a single colour indicate that PC1 separates the samples according to how close the shades are together, while PC2 and PC3 separate samples according to their individual colours. PC4, although explaining only a small percentage of variance, suggests that the samples are not homogeneously dyed. PCA plots of the samples dyed with various combinations of the three main dyes display each cluster of samples in their right position on the colour card. Calculated SEE and SEP values (Yellow: ~0.30, ~0.55, Brown: ~0.30, ~0.79, Red: 0.16, 0.49 and Grey: ~0.2, ~0.40, respectively) indicate that FT-Raman spectroscopy and chemometrics may offer promising methods for measuring the ratio of various dyes on wool/polyester fabrics. FT-Raman spectroscopy and chemometrics were also used to investigate the change in the ratio of dyes on UV-treated dyed woollen samples. Samples were weathered for 7 and 21 days, using accelerated weathering instrument. The substrate subtracted spectral data were normalised to 100% substrate of the first derivative (9 points and 7 degrees) followed by double centring of the matrix in the spectral region of 1500-500cm-1. PCA effectively separated non-irradiated from the irradiated sample but did not separate the irradiated samples further according to the number of days of irradiation. The pre-treatment used for PLS was first derivative of substrate subtracted spectral data normalised to 100% substrate, and then Y-mean centred. PLS failed to predict the ratio of the irradiated dyes very well. This may be because degradation products are not modelled by PLS or because the total amount of dye has reduced without changing the dye ratios.
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:ADTP/264861 |
| Date | January 2003 |
| Creators | Mozaffari-Medley, Mandana |
| Publisher | Queensland University of Technology |
| Source Sets | Australiasian Digital Theses Program |
| Detected Language | English |
| Rights | Copyright Mandana Mozaffari-Medley |
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