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Experiments for Waves Breaking Over a Three-Dimensional Submerged Bar

The influence of monochromatic waves interacting with a submerged bar structure
is investigated through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Wave profiles for a range
of non-breaking, spilling, and plunging waves were analyzed for three offshore water
depths through the interpretation of wave gauge and video imagery data. Evolution of
propagating waves was reflected in data which showed increased amplitudes due to
shoaling with subsequent breaking, transfer of single frequency spectrum from lower to
higher frequency harmonics, and dissipation of energy after breaking onset. Comparisons
of collected experimental data with previous theory developed by Yao et al (2013), Smith
& Kraus (1991), Galvin (1968) for wave classification showed to be relatively accurate for
both relative submergence and surf similarity methods. Wave breaking onset identified by
instability in the wave crests allowed for measurements of breaking wave height and depth
at breaking. Theory by Johnson (2006) and Goda (1974) compared to experimental data
showed little agreement for predicting breaking wave heights. / Includes bibliography. / Thesis (M.S.)--Florida Atlantic University, 2018. / FAU Electronic Theses and Dissertations Collection

Identiferoai:union.ndltd.org:fau.edu/oai:fau.digital.flvc.org:fau_40752
ContributorsRoy, Travis L. (author), Seiffert, Betsy (Thesis advisor), Florida Atlantic University (Degree grantor), College of Engineering and Computer Science, Department of Ocean and Mechanical Engineering
PublisherFlorida Atlantic University
Source SetsFlorida Atlantic University
LanguageEnglish
Detected LanguageEnglish
TypeElectronic Thesis or Dissertation, Text
Format81 p., application/pdf
RightsCopyright © is held by the author, with permission granted to Florida Atlantic University to digitize, archive and distribute this item for non-profit research and educational purposes. Any reuse of this item in excess of fair use or other copyright exemptions requires permission of the copyright holder., http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC/1.0/

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