Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. / Setup is defined as the superelevation of mean water surface within the surfzone and is caused by the reduction in wave momentum shoreward of the breaking point and compensating positive pressure gradient. Data were acquired north of Scripps Canyon on a gently sloping section of beach, which was homogenous in along-shore morphology, during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment, 2004. Pressure sensors were deployed both above and below the bed. Wave heights and radiation stress (wave-induced momentum) were calculated using linear theory transfer functions. Wave heights measured using pressure sensors in the water column had a positive bias compared with the buried pressure sensors, which it is presumed due to the Bernoulli effect of flow past the orifices. Predicted setup based on numerically solving the cross-momentum equation forced with the measured radiation stresses underestimates the observed setup by 40 percent in the mean. This is consistent with previous studies. / Lieutenant, United States Navy
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:nps.edu/oai:calhoun.nps.edu:10945/1485 |
| Date | 06 1900 |
| Creators | Yemm, Sean P. |
| Contributors | Thornton, Edward B., Stanton, Timothy, Naval Postgraduate School (U.S.)., Oceanography |
| Publisher | Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School |
| Source Sets | Naval Postgraduate School |
| Detected Language | English |
| Type | Thesis |
| Format | xii, 33 p., application/pdf |
| Rights | This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. Copyright protection is not available for this work in the United States. |
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