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Previous issue date: 2016-01-26 / A esp?cie Kalanchoe brasiliensis Cambess, pertencente ? fam?lia Crassulaceae, apresenta em sua composi??o qu?mica flavonoides, polissacar?deos e ?cido asc?rbico. Esses ativos s?o comumente utilizados em formula??es cosm?ticas com propriedades antioxidantes, hidratantes e antienvelhecimento. Essa pesquisa teve como objetivos o desenvolvimento de emuls?es hidratantes aditivadas com o extrato hidroetan?lico de folhas de Kalanchoe brasiliensis e avaliar a efic?cia cl?nica hidratante das mesmas. O extrato obtido foi avaliado quanto ?s concentra??es de a??cares totais, prote?nas e polifenois totais. Foram desenvolvidas formula??es com diferentes concentra??es de Sodium Acrylates/ Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Lauryl Glucoside (Novemer? EC-2), adicionadas ao gel de Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Carbopol? Ultrez-20). As formula??es foram aditivadas ou n?o de 0,5% (p/p) do extrato vegetal em estudo e submetidas aos testes de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. No estudo de estabilidade acelerada, as amostras foram estocadas em diferentes temperaturas durante 90 dias. As caracter?sticas organol?pticas, valor de pH e comportamento reol?gico foram avaliados. A formula??o contendo 3,0% Novemer? EC-2 e 0,4% de Carbopol? Ultrez-20 aditivada com 0,5% de extrato hidroetan?lico de K. brasiliensis foi considerada est?vel. A efic?cia cl?nica foi avaliada por meio das metodologias de capacit?ncia e da perda de ?gua transepidermal. A formula??o contendo o extrato comparado ao ve?culo promoveu aumento estatisticamente significativo do conte?do h?drico do estrato c?rneo da pele e diminui??o da perda de ?gua transepidermal promovendo efeito barreira at? cinco horas ap?s uma ?nica aplica??o da formula??o. A emuls?o desenvolvida com 0,5% do extrato hidroetan?lico das folhas de K. brasiliensis, apresentou efic?cia hidratante atuando possivelmente pelos mecanismos de oclus?o e umecta??o, demonstrando potencial uso como produto cosm?tico hidratante. / Kalanchoe brasiliensis Cambess specie, belonging to the Crassulaceae family, presents flavonoids, polysaccharides and ascorbic acid in its chemical composition. These compounds are generally used in cosmetics formulations as antioxidants, moisturizers and anti-aging properties. This research aimed to development moisturizing emulsions add or not with hydroethanolic extract of the Kalanchoe brasiliensis leaves and evaluated its moisturizing clinical efficacy. Formulations have been developed with different concentrations of Sodium Acrylates/ Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Lauryl Glucoside (Novemer?EC-2 polymer), incorporated to Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Carbopol? Ultrez-20). The formulations were added or not with plant extract 0.5% (w/w) and subjected to accelerated stability tests. In accelerated stability study, the samples were stored at different temperatures for 90 days. The organoleptic characteristics, pH and rheological behavior were evaluated. The formulation containing 3.0% Novemer?EC-2 and 0.4% Carbopol? Ultrez-20 added with hydroethanolic extract of K. brasiliensis 0.5% was considered stable. Moisturizing clinical efficacy was evaluated by capacitance and transepidermal water loss methodologies. The formulation containing extract compared to vehicle promoted increase significantly statistical of the water content of the stractum corneum and decrease of transepidermal water loss, promoting barrier effect until five hours after single application of the formulation. The emulsion developed with 0.5% of hydroethanolic extract of K. brasiliensis leaves presented moisturizing efficacy acting possibly by occlusion and humectation mechanisms, demonstrating potential use as a moisturizing cosmetic product.
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:IBICT/oai:repositorio.ufrn.br:123456789/21990 |
| Date | 26 January 2016 |
| Creators | Rodrigues, Rayllan de Oliveira |
| Contributors | 12835182870, Gomes, Ana Paula Barreto, 02820912460, Rocha Filho, Pedro Alves da, 00049231898, Ferrari, Marcio |
| Publisher | PROGRAMA DE P?S-GRADUA??O EM CI?NCIAS FARMAC?UTICAS, UFRN, Brasil |
| Source Sets | IBICT Brazilian ETDs |
| Language | Portuguese |
| Detected Language | English |
| Type | info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion, info:eu-repo/semantics/masterThesis |
| Source | reponame:Repositório Institucional da UFRN, instname:Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, instacron:UFRN |
| Rights | info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
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