這項研究是以民族誌描述方法，以南中國傳統的原生牛奶和現代的進口牛奶之生產及消費切入點，探討現代性的問題。對近代中國奶品需求急增的研究，大多解釋為現代西方食習慣之影響。我透過在順德及香港牛奶生產者及消費者日常生活的描述，試圖說明這食習慣的改變並非單是「西化」；相反，這其實是中國傳統的一種延續，再由殖民主義、資本主義，全球化，及中國建構新型國家這四種動力驅使下形成。而這四種動力又有賴市場 (本地及跨國的乳品公司、財金投資者、食品包裝生產商等) 、醫科專業人士及政府對 「健康」、「飲食文化遺產」等概念賦予新的社會價值。本文嘗試透過傳統和現代的牛奶之生產及消費，審視現代中國人對「健康」和「飲食文化遺產」的觀念和價值，在近年食品安全問題的陰霾下如何改變，這又如何反映中國在現代化和新型國家建構過程中的社會變遷，並探究有關身份認同，家庭角色與現代性的意涵。 / This thesis is an ethnographic study of the change in the production and consumption of indigenous and imported cow milk in South China, particularly Shunde and Hong Kong, during the post-Mao period. Contrary to the popular view that cow milk consumption in China is a result of Western influence, the milk production and consumption in South China is actually a continuation of the Chinese tradition. This thesis shows that the popularity of milk consumption in Shunde and Hong Kong is driven by the forces of colonialism, globalization, capitalism, and modern state-building. Milk consumption in these two places is mainly promoted through three kinds of agents - the market (global and local milk companies, financial investors, food-packaging companies), medical professionals and the State. I illustrate how these forces and agents affect the classification, meanings and values of health and culinary heritage, and how this results in a reinvention of tradition and a change in the concept of morality, amidst concerns over food safety. By examining the transformation of the values associated with milk in the process of production and consumption, I show how health and culinary heritage become the contested ground in the reconfiguration of modern identity and social relationship, while complying with the vision of the government in the building of national pride. / Detailed summary in vernacular field only. / Mak, Sau Wa. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2012. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 247-269). / Electronic reproduction. Hong Kong : Chinese University of Hong Kong, [2012] System requirements: Adobe Acrobat Reader. Available via World Wide Web. / Abstract also in Chinese. / Abstracts --- p.i / Foreword & Acknowledgements --- p.iii / Table of Content --- p.vi / Table of Illustrations, Figure and Map --- p.x / Chapter Chapter 1: --- Introduction / Chapter 1. --- Milk and Modernity --- p.9 / Chapter 2. --- Health, Culinary Heritage and Construction of National Pride --- p.12 / Chapter 3. --- Hong Kong and Shunde --- p.15 / Chapter 4. --- Organization of the thesis --- p.20 / Chapter Chapter 2: --- Historical and Ethnographic Background --- p.22 / Chapter 1. --- Production and Health Belief of Milk in Ancient China --- p.24 / Functions of Milk and Health in Ancient China --- p.30 / Chapter 2. --- Ecological and Culinary History of Daliang and Shunde --- p.32 / Political Economy of Mulberry, Fishpond and Water Buffalo --- p.34 / Buffalo Cheese Production in Jinbang village --- p.38 / Chapter 3. --- Production of Milk in Hong Kong --- p.44 / Colonialist and the Dairy Farm --- p.44 / Missionary Activities and the Trappist Dairy Farm --- p.48 / Chapter 4. --- Diffusion of Culinary Techniques and Buffalo’s Milk Culture from Shunde to Hong Kong --- p.50 / Chapter 5. --- Conclusion: Milk, Health and Culinary Art --- p.54 / Chapter Chapter 3: --- The Production of Milk in China with Special Reference to Shunde --- p.59 / Chapter 1. --- Indigenous Milk Production in Shunde --- p.60 / Traditional Buffalo’s Milk in Pre-Modern China --- p.60 / Traditional Buffalo’s Milk in Modern China --- p.63 / Chapter 2. --- Foreign Cow’s Milk Production in China --- p.68 / Modern Foreign Dairy Farms in China --- p.69 / Foreign Cow’s Milk Production in China --- p.71 / Chapter 3. --- Chinese Tradition in Foreign Cow’s Milk Drinks --- p.77 / Chapter 4. --- Modern State, Global Capitalism and Food Safety --- p.80 / Chapter 5. --- Conclusion --- p.83 / Chapter Chapter 4: --- The Consumption of Milk in Shunde (1): Traditional Buffalo’s Milk and Modern Cow’s Milk --- p.85 / Chapter 1. --- The Functions of Traditional Buffalo’s Milk --- p.86 / Buffalo Cheese as Medicine --- p.86 / Buffalo’s Milk as Bupin. --- p.87 / Chapter 2. --- Re-invention of Traditional Buffalo’s Milk Cuisines as Modern Culinary Heritage --- p.90 / Double-layered Milk Custard. --- p.91 / Stir-fried Buffalo’s Milk. --- p.95 / Deep-fried Buffalo’s Milk --- p.97 / Supreme Buffalo’s Milk --- p.98 / Chapter 3. --- Modern Cow’s Milk and Continuation of Tradition --- p.102 / Modern Cow’s Milk Drink and Tradition Breakfast Structure --- p.102 / The Tradition of Hong Kong-style Milk Tea and Taiwan Pearl Milk Tea --- p.104 / Chapter 4. --- Conclusion --- p.110 / Chapter Chapter 5: --- The Consumption of Milk in Shunde (2): Formula Milk --- p.112 / Chapter 1. --- Risk and Social Functions of Formula Milk --- p.114 / Responsible Mother and the New Rationalities of Weaning --- p.114 / Working Class: Purchase of Foreign Brand as a Modern Successful Father --- p.116 / Migrant Workers: Foreign Brands as Bupin. --- p.119 / Middle and Upper Class: Cross-border purchase of milk powder and the Geo-Politics of Hong Kong --- p.120 / Chapter 2. --- Tradition in Modern Cow’s Milk --- p.123 / Revival of Traditional and Local Buffalo’s Milk --- p.124 / Traditional Soymilk Consumption. --- p.127 / Traditional Health Belief and Consumption of Milk Products --- p.127 / Chapter 3. --- Global Medical Knowledge, the State and the Local Professional Group --- p.128 / Chapter 4. --- Conclusion --- p.129 / Chapter Chapter 6: --- The Consumption of Milk in Hong Kong (1): Canned Milk --- p.131 / Chapter 1. --- Sweetened Condensed Milk as Breast Milk Substitute --- p.133 / Chapter 2. --- Colonial Power and the Hierarchy of Milk --- p.136 / Chapter 3. --- Milk, Oat Meal and the Traditional Chinese Meal Structure --- p.140 / Chapter 4. --- Evaporated Milk in Authentic Hong Kong-style Milk Tea --- p.144 / Chapter 5. --- Canned Milk, Health and Culinary Heritage --- p.148 / Chapter 6. --- Conclusion --- p.154 / Chapter Chapter 7: --- The Consumption of Milk in Hong Kong (2) :Formula Milk --- p.156 / Chapter 1. --- 1930-50s - Condensed milk, Horlicks Milk and Powdered Milk as Modern Breast Milk Substitute --- p.157 / Chapter 2. --- 1960s-1980s- Docile Working Mother and Chubby Baby --- p.160 / Chapter 3. --- 2000-Present: Risk Society, Mother’s Body and Smart Baby --- p.165 / Mother’s Body and the Risk of Down-streaming --- p.169 / Ideal Smart Babies and the Fear of Global Competition --- p.171 / Chapter 4. --- Breast-Feeding as Resistance --- p.177 / Chapter 5. --- Milk Politics: The Government, the Doctors and the Formula milk corporations --- p.178 / Chapter 6. --- Conclusion --- p.182 / Chapter Chapter 8: --- The Politics of Culinary Heritage and State’s Policy of Well-Being --- p.185 / Chapter 1. --- Technics and the Changing Meanings of Culinary Heritage in Daliang --- p.187 / Local Radio Program: The legends of Daliang Gastronomy --- p.188 / Foshan TV program: The Nostalgic series --- p.190 / Private Kitchen Competition and Professional Chef Competition --- p.191 / Daliang and Shunde Gastronomy Map and Post-card --- p.195 / Chapter 2. --- Local Government and UNESCO City of Gastronomy --- p.196 / Seeking to be a World Gastronomy City --- p.198 / Lingnan Food Culture Festival --- p.203 / Chapter 3. --- Global Gastronomy City and the Local Gastromanie Identity --- p.205 / Chapter 4. --- Politics of Intangible Culture Heritage in Shunde --- p.208 / Chapter 5. --- Culinary Heritage, Civilized City and the Politics of Well-Being --- p.210 / Chapter 6. --- Conclusion --- p.212 / Chapter Chapter 9: --- Conclusion Milk and Modernity --- p.214 / Chapter 1. --- Buffalo’s Milk and Cow’s Milk --- p.214 / Chapter 2. --- Tradition in Modernity --- p.216 / Chapter 3. --- Re-invention of Tradition --- p.219 / Chapter 4. --- Risk, Health and Geo-Politics of Hong Kong --- p.221 / Chapter 5. --- Globalization, Milk and Health --- p.224 / Chapter 6. --- Health, Culinary Heritage and the State --- p.227 / Chapter 7. --- Epilogue: Some Reflections on the Significance of Ethnography --- p.230 / Bibliography. --- p.232
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:cuhk.edu.hk/oai:cuhk-dr:cuhk_328115 |
| Date | January 2012 |
| Contributors | Mak, Sau Wa., Chinese University of Hong Kong Graduate School. Division of Anthropology. |
| Source Sets | The Chinese University of Hong Kong |
| Language | English, Chinese |
| Detected Language | English |
| Type | Text, bibliography |
| Format | electronic resource, electronic resource, remote, 1 online resource (xii, 269 leaves) : col. ill., map |
| Coverage | China, China, China, China, 20th century |
| Rights | Use of this resource is governed by the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons “Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International” License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/) |
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