This thesis proposes an improvement to present near-shore wave prediction models. Using weakly dispersive Boussinesq theory, the shoaling of directionally spread surface gravity waves over a beach with gentle gradients in the cross-shore and alongshore directions is examined. Following Herbers and Burton (1997), the governing fluid flow equations are expanded to third order and depth-integrated over the water column. A resulting amplitude evolution equation for a spectrum of waves is derived, which is the main result of this paper. New terms in the higher order result include effects due to alongshore bottom slope, higher order cross-shore depth variations, and non-linear quartet interactions. The linear terms in this equation are verified by analytical methods using linear finite depth theory. Example computations for a monochromatic wave train over a plane beach quantify some of the improvements of this result over the lower order model. Opportunities for further development and verification of this result are proposed, and recommendations for application of the result in its present form are outlined. / US Navy (USN) author
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:nps.edu/oai:calhoun.nps.edu:10945/1450 |
| Date | 09 1900 |
| Creators | Ruth, David M. |
| Contributors | Herbers, Thomas H.C., Naval Postgraduate School (U.S.), Meteorology and Physical Oceanography |
| Publisher | Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School |
| Source Sets | Naval Postgraduate School |
| Detected Language | English |
| Type | Thesis |
| Format | xii, 49 p. ;, application/pdf |
| Rights | This publication is a work of the U.S. Government as defined in Title 17, United States Code, Section 101. As such, it is in the public domain, and under the provisions of Title 17, United States Code, Section 105, may not be copyrighted. |
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