A Study on the Spectral Form and the Nonlinearity of Nearshore ter Waves / 近岸波浪頻譜形狀與其非線性研究

博士 / 國立交通大學 / 土木工程研究所 / 82 / In this study, the local wave spectrum are obtained by six
long- term observational wave stations off the nearshore of
Taiwan, respectively. It was shown that, at a specific site,
the similarity of wave spectral form exist. Therfore,
theneralized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP
spectrum were used to describe the local wave spectrum by
selecting siutable spectral form parameters. In order to
examine the feasibility of the linear theory of power spectrum,
the experimental wind wave were generated in a wind-wave flume,
with many different wind velocities and water depths. Based on
the experimental data, asymmetry of wave forms, wave bispectra,
and phase velocity spectrum were obtained. From these results,
it was found that the reason the slope of the power spectral
from becomes smaller in shallow water can be attributed th not
only the increase of nonlinear wave component energy but also
the increase of linear wave component energy on higher
frequencynge. On the other hand, wave data were obtained from
threervation stations off the nearshore of Taiwan. The fours
were applied to investigate the nonlinearity of power
spectrum. The result of this study could be utilized as
aference toward the application of the linear power spectral
model to the ocean waves when the relative water depth was
lessan 0.1 in the nearshore region of Taiwan. Furthermore,
thelarities, discrepancies and characteristics of the four
methods were discussed and compared with one another.

Identiferoai:union.ndltd.org:TW/082NCTU0015001
Date January 1994
CreatorsChung-Ching Chien, 簡仲璟
ContributorsYi-Yu Kuo, 郭一羽
Source SetsNational Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations in Taiwan
Languagezh-TW
Detected LanguageEnglish
Type學位論文 ; thesis
Format95

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