Comparison of characteristics of waves near the coasts of Longdon and kueisan Island / 龍洞與龜山島海域波浪特性之比較

碩士 / 國立臺灣海洋大學 / 海洋環境資訊學系 / 95 / Abstract

Wind and wave data, measured by the buoy stations located off the Longdon and Kuisan Island at the northeast coast were obtained. Wind speed and direction, significant wave height and significant wave period were analyzed. The results of analysis indicated that the wind and wave climates in the two stations are different, and their differences also depend on the season. In the summer the wind at London was in the SSW direction with mean speed of 5.5m/s and in the NNE with 8.2m/s in the winter. The summer wind at Kuisan was in the SSE direction at 6.1m/s. The wind conditions at Kuisan are similar to that of London in the winter. Waves measured in summer showed that the two locations had the same mean significant wave height of 0.8m. In the winter the wave height at Longdon was 1.7m, about twice as large as in the summer, and 1.1m at Kueisan. The winter waves at Longdon had a mean significant period of 6.2s, which was higher than the 5.9s measured at Kuisan. In the summer, the wave period at Longdon was 5.8s and 5.5s at Kueisan. This study also compared the wave conditions predicted by the Central Weather Bureau. It was found on average the predicted wave in Beaufort scale were 2-3 scales higher than observed.
This study also examined the wind and wave relationship. It was found that by using a second-degree regression the regression coefficient were all less than that given by Ochi (1982) for fully developed sea, indicating that the waves measured at these two location were not fully developed. The results also showed that at zero wind there were waves present at these two locations. Second-degree regressions with zero wind wave height were conducted. It was found that, in the summer the wind wave relationships were identical for the two locations. In the winter, the wave height at Longdon was 1.1m with zero wind, while it was 0.4m at Kueisan. The winter waves at the two locations had different wind and wave relationships.

Identiferoai:union.ndltd.org:TW/095NTOU5282016
Date January 2007
CreatorsLIU TSUNG CHIU, 劉仲秋
Contributors蔡政翰
Source SetsNational Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations in Taiwan
Languagezh-TW
Detected LanguageEnglish
Type學位論文 ; thesis
Format53

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