Wave Height Variation across Surf Zone of Bar Beach Profile / 沙洲型海灘斷面碎波帶內波浪之變形

碩士 / 國立成功大學 / 水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班 / 96 / This paper extends the fifth-order polynomial theory of Hsu et al. (1998) for describing the bar beach profile. The hydraulic jump of Dally et al. (1985) and the energy conservation law are incorporated into the present model to account for wave breaking phenomenon and corresponding energy dissipation and wave variation properties. In particular, the wave energy decay characteristics on the cases of sloping beaches and Dean profile are examined and discussed, respectively. Reasonably good agreements are both achieved. Furthermore, the wave parameter effects in the present method on wave energy dissipation properties in the surf-zone are investigated, including energy decay coefficient, width of breaking zone and breaking index.

Identiferoai:union.ndltd.org:TW/096NCKU5083025
CreatorsKuen-Shian Lai, 賴昆賢
ContributorsTai-wen Hsu, Shan-hwei Ou, 許泰文, 歐善惠
Source SetsNational Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations in Taiwan
Languagezh-TW
Detected LanguageEnglish
Type學位論文 ; thesis
Format44

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