Cosmetic Activities of Carex meyeriana Kunth Extract and Preparation of its Polysorbate Calcium Alginate Microcapules / 烏拉草萃取物之化妝品活性及其聚山梨醇酯海藻酸鈣微膠囊之製備

碩士 / 弘光科技大學 / 化妝品科技研究所 / 101 / The objective of this study was to characterize the Luteolin composition and evaluate the antioxidant activities, anti-inflammatory activities, tyrosinase inhibitory activities, UV absorption value, UV block property and photostability of the Carex meyeriana Kunth extract. We got the dark green ethanol extract and the extraction rate is 5.15%. Analysis of Luteolin in Carex meyeriana Kunth extract was using HPLC, the concentration is 1.83%, and the data showed that is 4.7 times of Thyme extract.
In the antioxidant activity, Carex meyeriana Kunth extract contains the total phenolic content (196.6 mg of gallic acid equivalents, GAE) in large amount and exhibited great DPPH free radical scavenging capacity (IC50 =58.86 ppm). The data showed the antioxidant capacity is higher than Gentian extract, Rhus chinensis Mill Chinese herbal extract and other Chinese herbal extracts. The superoxide radical scavenging rate of 1% Carex meyeriana Kunth extract was 0.40 mM trolox (trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity TEAC).
The anti-inflammatory activity of Carex meyeriana Kunth extract was measured by 5-lipoxygenase inhibition assay (IC50 =277 ppm), and that is 1.14 times of Allantoin.
In the tyrosinase inhibitory activities of Carex meyeriana Kunth extract was using tyrosine and tyrosinase to evaluate the skin-whitening activity (IC50 =37.69 ppm), and that is 0.39 times of Allantoin, 2.02 times of Artocarpus heterophyllus extract. The Carex meyeriana Kunth extract has obviously absorption peaks at 290nm〜350 nm UV absorption spectra.
A spray sunscreen recipe of Carex meyeriana Kunth extract was designed in this study. The formula stability test was very well and the shelf-life was prove about two year. In UV protection test, 1% Carex meyeriana Kunth extract can improve 0.5 SPF value, and it can decrease 20% decadent of chemical UV block in the study recipe.
Comprehensive results showed that the Carex meyeriana Kunth extract had the great potential in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory efficacy and it also had the great potential in anti-photoaging, skin-whitening and increase the UV-block efficacy which could be used as a novel multi-function ingredient for cosmetic products.
In this study, we emulsified high G alginate, polysorbate-20, Jojoba oil, Carex meyeriana Kunth extract and water to emulsified solution. Then the solution was used syringe pump to prepare the polysorbate calcium alginate microcapsules.
There are some results we could identify in this study. The first is polysorbate-20 could improve the stability of alginate emulsified solution. The second is the diameter and spherical shape of microcapsules are dependent on the viscosity of the alginate emulsified solution. We can get the best spherical shape of microcapsules when the alginate emulsified solution content of 1% alginate and 15% jojoba oil. The third is the film and stability of microcapsules are dependent on the concentration of alginate. We increase the concentration of alginate, and get the higher film and stability of microcapsules.
When the polysorbate calcium alginate microcapsule was used in the cosmetic products, it must have spherical shape, thin flim and very stable. Summery these condition, we can got the best microcapsule when the experiment recipe was 1% alginate , 15% jojoba oil and 1% polysorbate-20.

Identiferoai:union.ndltd.org:TW/101HKU05793010
CreatorsYen-Ju Chen, 陳彥如
ContributorsJaw-Cherng Hsu, 徐照程
Source SetsNational Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations in Taiwan
Languagezh-TW
Detected LanguageEnglish
Type學位論文 ; thesis
Format92

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