The geography of Scotland, with a highly undulating hinterland, long and indented coastline, together with a large number of islands, means that much social and economic activity is largely located at the coast. The importance of the coast is further highlighted by the large number of ecosystem services derived from the coast. The threat posed by climate change, particularly current and future sea level rise, is of considerable concern and the associated coastal erosion and coastal flooding has the potential to have a substantial effect on the socioeconomic activity of the whole country. Currently, the knowledge base of coastal erosion is poor, which serves to hinder the current and future management of the coast. This research reported here aimed to establish four key aspects of coastal erosion within Scotland: the physical susceptibility of the coast to erosion; the assets exposed to coastal erosion; the vulnerability of communities to coastal erosion; and the coastal erosion risk to those communities. Coastal erosion susceptibility was modelled here within a GIS, using data for ground elevation, rockhead elevation, wave exposure and proximity to the open coast. Combining these data produced the Underlying Physical Susceptibility Model (UPSM), in the form of a 50 m2 raster of national coverage. The Coastal Erosion Susceptibility Model (CESM) was produced with the addition of sediment supply and coastal defence data, which then moderates the outputs of the UPSM. Asset data for dwellings, key assets, transport infrastructure, historic assets, and natural assets were used along with the UPSM and CESM to assess their degree of exposure to coastal erosion. A Coastal Erosion Vulnerability Model (CEVM) was produced using Experian Mosaic Scotland (a geodemographic classification which identifies 44 different social groups within Scotland) to classify populations based upon 11 vulnerability variables. Dwellings were assigned a CESM and CEVM score in order to establish their coastal erosion risk. This research demonstrated that the issue of coastal erosion will impact on a relatively low number of properties compared to those impacted by flooding (both coastal and fluvial) as many dwellings are already protected by coastal defences. There is therefore, a considerable future liability, and great pressure for coastal defences to be maintained and upgraded in their current form. The use of the CEVM is a novel inclusion within a coastal erosion assessment for Scotland. Use of the CEVM established that coastal erosion risk is not distributed equally amongst the Scottish coastal population and highlighted that risk can be reduced by either reducing exposure or reducing vulnerability. Thus far in Scotland, reducing exposure has been the primary management approach, which has a number of implications with regards social justice. This research identified the existing data gaps that should be addressed by future research in order to further improve coastal management in Scotland. Future research should focus on assessing historical coastal change rates on a national scale, improve modelling of national scale wave exposure, enhance the information held about current coastal defences and, determine the direct and indirect economic cost associated with the loss of different asset types. It is also necessary to clarify the social justice implications of using adaptation approaches to manage coastal erosion as well as establishing a method to communicate the susceptibility, exposure, vulnerability and risk aspects whilst minimising the potential negative impacts (e.g. property blight) of releasing such information.

The standard model of headland formation assumes a coastline with discordant geology, where the less resistant rock is eroded at a higher rate than the more resistant geology. The indentation of the coastline will continue to increase until variations in wave energy due to refraction balance with the variation in rock strength and beach volume. On soft cliff coasts, where no systematic variations in cliff lithology or strength exist subtle headlands are still seen. Several examples of this can be seen on the southwest coast of the Isle of Wight, a coastline of complex interbedded soft rock lithology. Its relatively straight planform is punctuated by three established and one potentially emerging headland. All of these headlands are fronted by locally elevated intertidal shore platforms. It was hypothesised that these platform potentially act in three ways. Firstly by reducing the amount of wave energy reaching the cliff base, thus reducing local cliff recession rates. The second may counteract the first by increasing the wave energy directed at the cliff base due to refraction, the balance between these two effects will determine if a headland will grow, be maintained or decline. Thirdly by blocking longshore transport of beach sediment, building a protective beach up-drift, while starving the downdrift coast of sediment, potentially accelerating erosion in that area. To test these three possible mechanisms, investigation into the geological and geotechnical properties of the cliff and platform, beach volumes and sediment budget, wave refraction, and historical recession rates was undertaken. The elevation of the shore platform is controlled by their resistance to erosion, which is related to aspects of their lithology and structural geology. These include clay content, mass properties, dip and strike in relation to the orientation of the coastline and the strength of the surrounding beds. Although two of the established headlands, Hanover and Atherfield Points act as a partial barrier to sediment transport the sediment volumes along the coastline were insufficient to significantly influence recession rates. The results of the sediment budget indicate that the low sediment volumes observed are likely to have been consistent over time due to the low inputs of beach grade sediment. Wave refraction modelling revealed that concentration of wave energy occurs towards the established headlands of Hanover and Atherfield Points this is reflected in the higher than average recession rates seen at these headlands. It is concluded that the major control of the formation and evolution of headlands on the southwest coast is the geological and geotechnical properties of the intertidal platforms. Once established these headlands exist in a state of dynamic equilibrium controlled by the persistence of the platform forming beds and the balance between refraction and attenuation of wave energy across the platform surface. These results may have widespread implications on soft cliffed sediment-starved coasts where similar processes are dominant.

During the Cretaceous, the CO2 content of the global atmosphere increased in response to the volcanism associated with the disintegration of the former continents. This led to a considerable rise in global temperatures, leading to a significant rise in the global sea level and the landward movement of coastlines. Cretaceous marine strata transgressed directly on the underlying basement or much older sedimentary strata. Extreme environmental conditions in the Cretaceous involved a possibly more acidic and chemically destructive atmosphere than at present, which favoured widespread deep weathering at that time. The extensive Cretaceous palaeo-seaways played a vital role in transporting and depositing the huge volume of sediments generated during the weathering events, which included economically important placer deposits (e.g., gold, diamond and platinum). A direct consequence of the extreme Cretaceous global warmth was the widespread development of Cretaceous silcretes. Much of the world's heavy oil occurs in Cretaceous reservoir sands. The geological processes responsible for the widespread occurrence of the Cretaceous oil sands can also be traced back to the unique Cretaceous greenhouse climatic condition. The warm climatic conditions imply a higher heat flow regime in the subsurface, which contributed to the thermal maturation of the organic rich sediments that are closely associated with the Cretaceous transgressive sands. The oils were generated as conventional light oil, which later degraded into heavy oils, rather than thermally cracked oils from over-matured source rocks. Oils migrated into shallow warm reservoir sands that were favourable for microbial activities. All the studied Cretaceous oil sands show evidence of hopane degradation without the formation of 25-norhopanes despite diasterane degradation in some of the samples. This strongly implies that biodegradation in these studied Cretaceous oil sands occurred at shallow depths. Pyrite precipitated from an open system by means of microbial sulfate reduction as part of the biodegradation process.

Coastal shell middens, a prominent feature of the Mesolithic (11,500–6000 cal BP) archaeological record of western Scotland, suggest a maritime economy based on fishing and shellfish. Despite evidence for the importance of fish and shellfish to diet, virtually nothing is known as to the methods of procurement. Initially, work focussed on the palaeoenvironments of Scottish West Coast Mesolithic coastal sites, to establish the resources available to Mesolithic coastal dwellers. A range of archaeological/ethnohistorical fishing gear and food procurement strategies is described, together with views of field archaeologists, bushcraft practitioners and experimental archaeologists. These perspectives together with palaeoenvironmental data were considered when producing fishing gear utilising resources and technologies available during the Mesolithic. Fieldwork and experiments were conducted at the Scottish West Coast Mesolithic coastal sites of Ulva Cave, the Oban area, the island of Oronsay, and Sand, together with South Uist and the Urr estuary on the Solway Firth. The fishing gear manufactured reflects current debates as to fishing strategies, as such, several archaeological ‘models’ were tested. The gear also enabled an attempt at targeting the main fish and crab species found in the middens; Pollachius virens, Labridae, Pollachius pollachius, Carcinus maenas, Liocarcinus depurator and Cancer pagurus. In addition to fishing experiments, ecological surveys and forage exercises established the species present and available to a contemporary coastal forager, providing an indication as to the vigour and abundance of shoreline species. This data was compared to data from the middens, providing an insight into potential collection strategies. Exploratory procurement and manufacture experiments were conducted that tested a variety of materials, including their suitability for use, while bait tests assessed bait desirability. The results suggest that for Mesolithic groups to successfully exploit the coastal environments adjacent to the West coast midden sites, knowledge of tides and species together with simple manufacturing skills would have been sufficient.

Gravel beaches and barriers occur on many high-latitude, wave-dominated coasts across the world. Due to their natural ability to dissipate large amounts of wave energy, gravel coasts are widely regarded as an effective and sustainable form of coastal defence. However, during extreme events waves may overtop, overwash, and even lower, the crest of the gravel beach, flooding the hinterland. In the evaluation of the safety of gravel coasts against flooding, coastal managers currently rely on models that have been shown in previous studies to be inaccurate. The research in this thesis attempts to improve the current predictive capacity of gravel beach storm response by developing a new process-based model to simulate storm impacts on gravel coasts. The numerical model developed in this thesis, called XBeach-G, is a morphodynamic, depth-averaged, cross-shore profile model, based on the XBeach model for sandy coasts (Roelvink et al., 2009). The model simulates the morphological response of gravel beaches and barriers to storms by solving: (1) intra-wave flow and surface elevation variations using a non-hydrostatic extension of the non-linear shallow water equations; (2) groundwater processes, including infiltration and exfiltration, using a Darcy-Forchheimer-type model; and (3) bed load transport of gravel using a modification of the Van Rijn (2007a) bed load transport equation to include flow acceleration effects, which are shown to be significant on coarse-grained beaches. The model is extensively validated for hydrodynamics, groundwater dynamics and morphodynamics using detailed data collected in physical model experiments, as well as data collected in the field on four natural gravel beaches in the UK and one in France. Validation results show that the model has high quantitative skill in simulating observed hydrodynamics on gravel beaches across a wide range of forcing conditions, in particular with regard to wave transformation, wave run-up and wave overtopping. Spatial and temporal variations in groundwater head are shown to be well represented in the model through comparison to data recorded in a physical model experiment. Validation of the morphodynamic component of XBeach-G shows that the model has high model skill (median BSS 0.75) in simulating storm impacts on five gravel beaches during ten storm events, with observed morphodynamic response ranging from berm-building to barrier rollover. The model is used to investigate hydrodynamic processes on gravel beaches during storms, where it is found that incident-band variance is elemental in the generation of wave run-up on gravel beaches. Furthermore, simulations of wave run-up during high-energy wave events show a distinct disparity between run-up predicted by empirical relations based on the Iribarren parameter and wave steepness, and run-up predicted by XBeach-G, where predictions by the empirical relations substantially underestimate observed wave run-up. Groundwater processes are shown, by means of sensitivity simulations, to strongly affect the morphodynamic response of gravel beaches and barriers to storms. The research in this thesis supports the hypothesis that infiltration in the swash is a key driver for the berm-building response of gravel beaches and helps to reduce erosion of the upper beach during storms. Through model simulations on a schematic gravel barrier it is shown that groundwater processes effectively increases the capacity of gravel barriers to withstand storms with 1-3 m higher surge levels than if groundwater processes did not occur. Reducing the width of a barrier leads to a lowering of this capacity, thereby reducing the resilience of the barrier to extreme storm events. Despite its strong influence on gravel beach morphodynamics, it is found that infiltration plays a relatively small role on wave run-up levels on most natural gravel beaches (median R 2% run-up level reduction of 8%). Application of the model in validation simulations and sensitivity simulations in this thesis, as well as in storm hindcast simulations discussed by McCall et al. (2013) shows the value of using the process-based XBeach-G model in coastal flooding analysis over the use of empirical tools. While no model can be considered entirely accurate, application of XBeach-G in all hindcast overwash simulations has lead to reasonable estimates of overtopping discharge and of morphological change, which is a significant improvement over the frequently substantial errors of the empirical tool designed for this purpose.

The aim of this research is to assess hazards and risks associated with flooding in the city of Juárez, northern México, where there is a flood threat from active alluvial fans from mountains to the southwest and from the Rio Grande (Bravo River) to the northwest forming the northeast border of the city. Aims of this Ph.D. were addressed processing a digital elevation model (DEM) of the study area in a GIS platform to define the several alluvial fans, and thus to examine their history and palaeohydrology. Three OSL dates in the youngest parts of the fans show ages ranging from 74 - 31 ka. However, the fans were subsequently incised, broadly correlating with later Pleistocene to Holocene processes upstream, published in literature, in New México. These changes are not obviously linked to glacial-interglacial cycles, and there is indication of local controls of interplay of climate and topography, for which this work is a preliminary study. The flood threat to Juárez was addressed by using a classification of the uneven topography of the eroded alluvial fans, plus the Bravo River flood plain, into basins and subbasins. Field and laboratory work was used to define litho-facies of soils and rocks, location of structures such as, topographic and hydrologic apex and drainage system in the fans. The data were then used in association with published information on the parameters of the basins and sub-basins provided in published documents from the Mexican authorities to make flood models of the area, using standard models of HEC-HMS and HEC-RAS methods widely applied in semi-arid regions. The result was estimation of the ability of existing flood defences to resist high-flow floods that may be expected in upcoming decades. The modelling predicts that only a small number of the existing defences will hold in a catastrophic 1:100-year flood, and that substantial parts of the city are in considerable danger. Such results are important in relation to the expanded and dense population in Juárez, which is concentrated mostly on the most active part of the flooding system, the Colorado Fan, which is the subject of a focussed secondary study of vulnerability mapping. The map reveals that areas of the city of low socioeconomic development are under the greatest threat. Therefore there is a need for reconsideration of the city's flood planning, and remediation, plus the application of enforcements of areas which should not be built on, because of the threats.

Beach grain size plays a major role in controlling beach slope and sediment transport rates and is a crucial criterion in selecting the appropriate fill material for beach nourishment. Yet, little is known about how and why beach grain size (and sorting) varies both spatially and temporally on high-energy sandy beaches. Therefore, in this PhD research project, the presence, magnitude and predictability of any spatio-temporal sediment variability was investigated on a number of contrasting high-energy (average significant wave height = 0.8 to 3.5 m), predominantly macrotidal (MSR = 3.1 – 6.2 m), sandy (0.26 – 0.64 mm) beach sites around the southwest peninsula of the United Kingdom (UK). The spatial extent of the data collected ranges from regional (one off snapshot of the sediment conditions on 53 beaches over 485 km of coastline) to local scales (repeated high-resolution samples from across the inter- and subtidal zone of a single high-energy sandy beach; Perranporth, UK). The temporal scales of the sampling ranges from tidal scale (~12 hours) up to monthly (long-term monitoring since 2008). A combination of traditional and modern field data collection methods has provided new insights into the sediment dynamics of sandy beaches. Surface and 0.25 m core sediment samples from the 53 beaches around the southwest UK and high-resolution digital measurements with longer 1 m sand cores from the intertidal zone, plus grab samples from the subtidal zone, at Perranporth, indicated the presence of three quasi-permanent spatial trends. On all sandy beaches, surface sediments became coarser (and better sorted) in the seaward direction across the intertidal zone. Peak sediment sizes were observed on the lower beach around mean low water springs, which were an average 19% coarser (and 8% better sorted) than sediments sampled on the upper intertidal beach. Sediment size (and sorting) also increased (improved) with distance down the sediment column over the top 0.25 m to 1 m. Peak sediment sizes at depth were an average 16% coarser (and 16% better sorted) than surface sediments. In the subtidal zone, surface sediments became finer and poorer sorted with increasing offshore distance. Minimum sediment size occurred on the subtidal bar crest and were an average 21% finer (and 51% poorer sorted) than the lower beach sediments and 5% finer (and 38% poorer sorted) than upper beach sediments. The coarsest sediments were usually the best sorted at all locations. The intertidal coarsening was deterministically linked to the location and amount of breaking wave-induced turbulence. The peak sediment sizes (and sorting) on the lower beach correlated with the location of peak wave dissipation (sediment size to amount of wave dissipation, r2 = 0.86) and the finer sediment sizes on the upper beach and bar were coincident with reduced amounts of wave dissipation in these regions. Long-term seasonal monitoring of the surface sediments at Perranporth indicated a background seasonality, where the winter months were an average 35% coarser and 22% better sorted than samples collected in summer. This seasonal pattern was punctuated by episodic storm events that promoted a significant coarsening (up to 112% in the extreme winter storms of 2014) of the surface sediments and significant beach erosion up to 175 m3/m. An empirical model forced by the degree of disequilibrium between an instantaneous and antecedent (weighted average) wave steepness time series was able to capture up to 86% of the sediment grain size and sorting variability, incorporating both the seasonal and storm driven change. The same model, applied to daily observations of sediment size and sorting changes was able to explain 72% of the variability. A conceptual model is proposed that extends the cross-shore sediment transport shape functions to include the various sediment (size and sorting) responses alongside the morphodynamic evolution during persistently high and low wave steepness conditions. Under high steepness waves, the finer material is preferentially removed from the lower intertidal beach, leaving behind coasrer sediments. This fine material is transported to the subtidal bar, which becomes finer (and more poorly sorted) inversely with the coarsening (and improved sorting) of the intertidal zone sediments. Under low steepness waves, this fine material is returned from the bar to the intertidal beach. This work provides a detailed, quantitative insight into the magnitude of sediment grain size and sorting changes exhibited by sandy beaches on a number of spatial and temporal scales. Several consistent trends were observed on a range of sandy beaches despite their different environmental conditions and geological histories. This improved understanding of sediment grain size and sorting changes on beaches will hopefully aid future research efforts and ensure that this fundamental aspect of coastal science is not overlooked or oversimplified.

Climate variability and change threaten human and physical systems in coastal zones. With more than 10% of the global population now living and working in low elevation coastal zones, successful adaptation to climate change is becoming a pressing issue, particularly for areas featuring critical, long-lived infrastructure. The aim of this research is to define the architecture and attributes contributing to successful adaptation to climate change. Here, success is measured in terms of the process rather than outcomes of adaptation initiatives. The research features two empirical phases: adaptation framework analysis and an evaluation of factors affecting the adaptive capacity of stakeholder organisations. Framework analysis involved the development of a criterion tool based on recurrent features of different adaptation frameworks as described in research literature. Six hallmarks emerged as discriminators of Scenario-Led (SL), Vulnerability-Led (VL) and Decision-Centric (DC) frameworks. The criterion tool was then tested using four UK coastal case study areas, drawing on evidence from public domain adaptation documents. The Grounded Theory Methodology (GTM) was used investigate factors enabling or inhibiting stakeholder adaptation efforts by designing and iteratively adjust semi-structured interviews with stakeholder organisations in the Sizewell nuclear neighbourhood, Suffolk, UK. The findings from the two phases were brought together to identify opportunities to improve the adaptation processes. Analysis of the adaptation architecture revealed that stakeholders rarely use one theoretical adaptation approach. A hybrid adaptation framework is adopted, with the DC/SL or DC/VL being utilised most frequently. Findings reveal a mismatch between theoretical frameworks and those implemented in practise. Semi-structured interviews exposed six key themes defining adaptation process. Stakeholder organisations reported 12 factors that affect their standpoints on each key theme. Standpoints were broadly consistent between similar stakeholder organisations. Stakeholder groups, key themes and influencing factors provide an evidence base for evaluating the complex social dynamics affecting successes of the adaptation process, offering a route to pragmatic adaptation guidance. By considering the architecture and attributes of adaptation coastal stakeholders in neighbourhoods with long-lived infrastructure could strengthen the adaptation process, thereby realising their shared vision(s) of integrated coastal management. There is scope for improving and advancing the research. It is acknowledged that the inventories of adaptation initiatives were uneven in size and scope, potentially limiting the evaluation of the criterion tool. This may be addressed by assessing other coastal neighbourhoods with long-lived infrastructure. When interviewing representatives from stakeholder organisations, it was difficult to differentiate between personal or professional views. Future research could investigate how the role of the individual influences adaptation efforts. Insights could further refine the architecture and attributes of adaptation.

This study identifies and critically assesses the social and physical consequences of, and possible responses to, sea-level rise and loss of land in the area that is now covered by the southern North Sea and English Channel/La Manche during the Mesolithic period. It suggests that Mesolithic studies still, despite debate on the matter, frame hunter fisher gatherers in economic terms. In this way, nature is seen as a separate entity to culture, the changing environment, therefore, becomes an external force against which people struggle. However, as an alternative, this thesis advocates an understanding of Mesolithic hunter fisher gatherers as an integral part of their changing world, suggesting that they would have had a fundamental awareness of these changes through a sensorial engagement, and acted accordingly. That said, it also suggests that, while not all people living in the area were equally affected by sea-level rise, the associated loss of land could have profoundly impacted people’s sense of place and being. It also highlights that, although sea-level rise and climate change occurred globally and on a millennial-scale, it unfolded and was experienced at a local and generational level. It therefore makes a case that to understand the human experience of early Holocene sea-level rise, it must be studied at the local-scale. This provides us with a better understanding of the effects of sea-level rise – a sense of the experience of it, rather than simply recording it as an abstract concept. Further, the local scale can identify problems that are not necessarily obvious from the larger scale. In this way, this thesis captures some of the nuances of environmental change that are frequently missing from the archaeological literature, and highlights the intense relationship between humans and their environment, providing a fresh approach to Mesolithic environment relations and a richer and more complex story of the effects of early Holocene sea-level rise.

Le littoral subit de constants changements : son évolution est induite à la fois par des processus biophysiques – houles, tempêtes, courants marins, agents météorologiques –, et par une anthropisation notoire, particulièrement accentuée au cours des derniers siècles. En France, sur les côtes de la Manche, la variété et la richesse des types de côtes ont suscité l’inspiration de nombreux artistes notamment depuis le milieu du 19e siècle. Musées, archives, collections privées, détiennent de précieux témoignages visuels de l’histoire des lieux. Cette thèse vise à mettre en évidence la valeur informative de l’iconographie artistique des rivages à travers l’observation des évolutions géomorphologiques du littoral. La première partie contextualise la démarche générale en exposant un certain nombre de considérations théoriques essentielles au centre desquelles figurent les enjeux d’une géomorphologie moderne, le statut des images en géographie et une rétrospective de l’histoire des représentations picturales du paysage. La seconde partie explore concrètement le potentiel pressenti de l’exploitation des documents artistiques en tant que source d’information à l’échelle des rivages normano-bretons. A partir d’un corpus représentatif restreint d’œuvres d’art, une méthodologie est développée. Enfin, la troisième et dernière partie des travaux présente une application de la méthodologie élaborée dans un contexte précis. Le territoire considéré est celui de la Rance maritime avec pour principale problématique l’identification et l’évaluation des modifications architecturales et sédimentologiques intervenues au niveau du trait de côte et sur l’estran. Les résultats de cette approche sont diffusés au sein d’une interface numérique visant à être consultée, et à terme alimentée, par un large public. / The shoreline is submitted to constant changes : its evolution results from both biophysical processes – swells, storms, ocean currents, meteorological factors –, and significant anthropisation, strongly accentuated during the last centuries. In France, on the coast of the Channel, variety and sumptuousness of types of coasts have aroused the inspiration of numerous artists, especially since the middle of the 19th century. Museums, archives, private collections possess precious records of the story of places. This research aims to reveal the informative value of artistic shoreline iconography to observe geomorphological evolutions of the coast. The first part contextualizes the general approach, setting out some essential theoretical considerations centered on modern geomorphology, the status of images in geography and a retrospective of the history of landscape pictorial representations. The second part concretely explores the foreseen potential of using artistic documents as knowledge sources at the scale of the French coasts of the Channel. From a limited corpus of art works, a methodology is developed. Finally, the third and last part of the work presents an application of the developed methodology in a precise context. The territory considered is the Rance estuary, with, as main issue, the identification and evaluation of architectural and sedimentological modifications that occurred in the coastline and foreshore. Results are released through a dedicated Website, which intends to be consulted, and eventually contributed, by a large public.