More information is needed to understand the Black male consumer. Although expanding in the past five years, research about the buying behaviors of consumers has tended to avoid males, particularly Black males. Retailers and marketers should understand the immense diversity among consumers if they are to market apparel accurately and successfully. The purpose of this research was to investigate Black males and Whites males to examine if differences in their buying behavior for apparel exist. In addition, consumer attributes (i.e., apparel involvement, self-esteem, reference group, social class, media) and personal characteristics were investigated separately and in relation to the purchase behavior of Black male and White male administrators and professors on a predominantly White campus. Data were collected from a convenience sample of 15 Black males and 15 White males. A questionnaire was pilot tested for content validity and reliability. Descriptive statistics (i.e., frequencies and percentages), ANOVAs, t-tests and chi-squares were used for data analysis to test the hypotheses. The following Hypotheses were formulated for this study. Hypothesis 1 stated race will affect likelihood of purchase for color of men's business suits within the buying process among Black and White faculty, staff and administrators. Hypothesis 2 stated that selected attributes (i.e., apparel involvement, media, reference group, self-esteem, social class) will be related within the buying process among Black and White faculty, staff, and administrators. For Hypothesis 1, the results showed a significant relationship between color and the likelihood of purchase for men's business suits. For Hypothesis 2, apparel involvement, social class and media were significantly related to race. / Master of Science

Sensors and actuators featuring biomimetic properties, with linear and angular resolution, good compliance and long term biostability are in growing demand for applications such as synthetic muscles, sensor equipped limps and other bio-engineering designs. Recent research papers have demonstrated that insulator materials coated with polypyrrole or polyaniline and combined with various dopants can achieve piezoresistive and dielectric properties, enabling the detection and displacement of local strains in polymer sheets, textile fibers and fabrics. It is known that composite films made from layers of carbon black (CB) filled polyvinylindene fluoride (PVDF) and high density polyethylene (HDPE) films provide stable piezoelectric behavior in the temperature range from 20 to 140 oC and low tensile loss on exposure to moisture and hydrolytic conditions. However, to date the literature contains no references to the use of this particular polymer system in fiber or textile form. Moreover, since the resistivity of such composites can be quantitatively specified by selectively localizing CB in one polymer phase or at the interface of an immiscible polymer blend, it was hypothesized that bicomponent fiber spinning might lead to similar piezoelectric properties within individual fibers. This research study was therefore aimed first at determining whether a blend of PVDF and HDPE polymers filled with CB could be melt spun and drawn into a series of composite or bicomponent fibers using a laboratory extruder and drawing machine. This was accomplished successfully with loadings of CB varying from zero to 27.7% by weight. The second goal was to determine the weight fraction of CB that should be added to PVDF / HDPE composite fibers in order to optimize their electrical functionality and piezoelectric performance. Analysis of the deformation of the as-spun and drawn fibers in their longitudinal direction during charging and discharging was conducted in a novel piezoresponse force microscope (PFM). It demonstrated that increasing the CB content also increased the ferroelectric hysteresis and piezoelectric constant of the composite fiber up to the percolation threshold of 20.7% of CB by weight. The CB was selectively located in the HDPE phase, resulting in a significant loss of crystallinity in the HDPE phase. At the same time, the PVDF phase was transformed from a non-polar to a polar form. The optimum spun and drawn composite piezoelectric fiber measuring 120 microns in diameter contained 56/32/12 PVDF/HDPE/CB by weight. Under the electric stimulation of a few volts it was predicted to be capable of producing a tensile force of about 2 x 10^-2 N for a 350 mm long fiber with 1 mm 2 cross-sectional area. It is anticipated that a bundle of such piezoelectric fibers measuring 26 mm² in cross-section could generate the force of 0.5 N required to complete flexion of a human distal interphalangeal (finger) joint. The incorporation of CB filled HDPE produces a conductive matrix phase within these bicomponent fibers, which acts as an electrode around the PVDF regions, facilitating a more uniform distribution of the piezoelectric charge within the PVDF phase. These encouraging results bode well for future piezoelectric fibers, which have both rapid electromechanical response and good biostability. Additional larger scale tests are recommended to evaluate the efficiency of these novel biomaterials for use in biomedical and electrotextile end-uses.

This research involves the application of hydroentangling technology as a means of significantly improving knitted fabric properties. In the past, various efforts have been made, directed at improving the dimensional stability and physical properties of woven and knitted fabrics through the finishing technique of hydroentanglement. In such applications, warp and filling fibers in fabrics are hydroentangled at crossover points to effect enhancement in fabric cover. The process parameters of hydroentangling are investigated and optimized to achieve desired results. Potential benefits include enhanced fabric durability, stability, and appearance.

The purpose of the research has been to investigate how merger and outsourcing activities impact the way productivity is measured on five categories of company resources: human, physical, knowledge, capital, and infrastructure resources. This research involves: an assessment of productivity measures with the goal of determining which resource category are key areas to monitor after merger activity, an evaluation of profitable textile mergers with the goal of delineating the execution of the merger strategies, an analysis of the effect of increased outsourcing on productivity growth with respect to the textile industry, and an evaluation of the adequacy of productivity measures in representing the economic competitiveness of the US Textile Industry. For the sample of textile companies, merger activity impacts the productivity of capital and knowledge resources the most. The most common strategies employed during successful textile mergers targeted the improvement of: corporate structure, product differentiation and speed to market. The influence of outsourcing on productivity growth in the textile industry was found to be negligible when comparing productivity measures that include and exclude outsourcing. In order to get a better understanding of competitiveness, companies are not looking solely at productivity, but are pairing productivity with other measures mainly profitability measures. Of all the resource categories, the productivity of knowledge resources is the leading contributor to competitiveness. However, one difficulty is that knowledge resources are also the category for which there were not concrete measures productivity that denote how well this resource was being used.

Over-end unwinding has been proved to be the most optimal process to transfer yarn from one package to another in order to improve the quality and the characteristics of subsequent processes like warping and weaving. It is the highly non-linear behavior of this unwinding process that the variation in the quality of the final product is found and if this behavior is not controlled, the variation becomes more pronounced. This non-linear behavior should be well understood to select the optimum process parameters for a given operation and subsequent processing. This research study is done to analyze the effects of various process parameters on the tension distribution and balloon profile and to experimentally validate the mathematical model set forth for predicting the behavior of over-end unwinding. The materials used for the experiments are Polyester multifilament yarns of different linear densities (70, 270 and 500 denier). The variables used for the study purpose are Unwinding Speed, Mass Linear Densities, Package Diameters, and Guide-eye Distances. Balloon images are captured using a high-speed camera and the images are synchronized with the tension readings. Since three levels of each variable are used, 81 numbers of tests are conducted. Accordingly, the influence of changes in variables as well as the direction of unwinding (front-to-back or back-to-front) is seen for the tension distribution and balloon profile. The results of the experiments are compared with the theoretical predictions. In agreement with the theory, increase in the balloon height causes increase in tension. Also, the reduction in balloon count is accompanied by the increase in tension. Highest possible tension is seen with single balloon formations. With the same balloon count, an increase in unwinding speed gives rise to increased tension.

ZAVERI, MITUL DILIP. " Absorbency Characteristics of Kenaf Core Particles " (Under the direction of Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi). Chopped Kenaf Core (2 " to 4" in length), obtained from Greene Natural Fibers ? a company located in Snow Hill, North Carolina, was ground into very fine particles (below 1 mm) and categorized into various size ranges. The ground particles were tested for water absorbency and the optimum particle size, giving maximum absorbency, was determined. Experiments revealed that Kenaf Core of size range 106 ? 425 microns gave the highest water absorbency at saturation, up to 12 times its weight. The 425 ? 840 micron range was the next highest and it absorbed water up to 10 times its weight. Factors leading to this optimum particle size range were determined, the absorption mechanisms taking place were studied and experimental analysis was done to prove the results obtained. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) images were also taken to understand the shape and profile of the granular particles in fine detail. Various chemical treatment and refining experiments were carried out on the highly absorbent particle sizes (106 ? 840 microns) to enhance their bonding properties and to make handsheets from them. The highly absorbent Core particles were treated with NaOH in water bath at 90 º C, Cooked with NaOH and Na2S at 170 º C in a bomb reactor and treated with water in a water bath at 90 º C, all for 3 hours. Handsheets were made from the chemically treated particles to determine if there was sufficient bonding between them. To enhance the bonding further, the particles were refined in a blender for one hour. The effect of chemical treatment and refining on the absorbency properties of the Core was determined. SEM analysis of the particles was done to visualize the fibrillation caused due to refining. Handsheets were made with a blend of hardwood and highly absorbent (untreated and water treated 106 ? 840 micron) refined Core particles with 50 ? 70% of Kenaf Core in them. The absorption properties of these handsheets were determined and compared with the absorption of a handsheet made from fluff pulp (same basis weight). As the final step, the handsheets made from a blend of kenaf core and hardwood pulp were sandwiched between a pair of 17gsm lightly calendared polypropylene spun bond fabrics.

The purpose of this research has been to explore the role of agent certification in the process of global sourcing. While some research has been done in the area of exporter-intermediary relationship, little has been done to study the importance of buyer-agent relationship and how the process of agent certification could strengthen that relationship. Global sourcing has played a vital role in the existence of textile and apparel industries across the world. With the increased advancement of developing countries and the numerous advantages that these countries possess, developed countries, such as the United States and countries in the European sub-continent, rely heavily on global sourcing to remain competitive in the global marketplace. Due to numerous barriers to global sourcing such as language barriers and inability to check sources, companies have found it useful to source through agents. These agents act as the facilitators between the sources and the buyers. With the advent of Internet and e-commerce, online sourcing has come into picture. Although the transparency in terms of sources and buyers on the web and their processes has increased and organizations are thinking of certifying sources, the role of agents' sill exists. A total of 30 agents and apparel-manufacturing buyers were interviewed to assess the feasibility and role of agent certification in the global sourcing process. While the specific items to be certified were not confirmed, both types of subjects agreed that agent certification would assist in the transactions in the buyer-agent relationship. It was found that small and medium-sized buyers would find agent certification more useful than large-sized buyers because of small-size buyers' limited resources and potential to find trusted agents.

In order to better understand the changes and trends in the increasingly competitive dynamics of global textile complex, this research focuses on analyzing the rate of change in country of production origin for fiber, yarn, fabric and end-use products in the past decade. By using the model of textile product complex as framework, the data presented in this research paper were firstly collected from various data sources, such as the Fiber Economics Bureau, ITMF, ICAC, Textiles Intelligence, CIRFS, and WTO as well. The data were then validated to ensure its integrity, which represented a significant stage in the process. Finally, the data were analyzed and conclusions were drawn based on the obvious trends in the data. This research offers a practical interpretation of the direction and magnitude of changes in worldwide textile and apparel production. Meanwhile, it provides an outline of the relationships between textile trade and production, as well as the relationships between production and employment. In addition, the findings from this study will show the direction for global sourcing of textile and apparel products.

There is not just one official definition of sustainability, but instead over three hundred. Previous studies together show tendencies towards a possible gap in the consumer versus company definitions of sustainability in apparel. A gap in how sustainability is defined. This thesis aims to contribute to the filling of this possible gap with a description and analysis of the matter. Deep semi structured interviews with ten female fashion consumers from the conscious Generation Y, defining and discussing sustainability were performed. The same consumers also attended a one-hour focus group session. The consumer definitions of sustainability were compared with the definitions from Gina Tricot, H&M, Kappahl, Lindex and MQ via their sustainability reports. Our findings shows several gaps in the way sustainability was defined by the conscious female fashion consumer from Generation Y and the conscious fashion company presenting a sustainability report. The two main gaps are the consumers defining sustainability as long lasting quality and less consumption. The companies in their sustainability reports do not address these definitions. Communication, deeper interaction and enhancements in the business model supply chains are concluded in order to address the gaps. For further research a larger more extended study could enhance the results and give deeper insights.

The United States apparel industry has become more dependent on the overseas vendors; it is important for the industry to get to know about the sourcing destination more precisely. In general, developing countries are the leading suppliers of the apparel goods for the United States. But in practice, these countries are different in their strengths and weaknesses to fit in the supplier base for the US market. This study sought to identify the benefit factors of sourcing apparel from Bangladesh. The objectives of this study were to: Identify the considering factors of apparel sourcing; investigate the effect of these sourcing factors on Bangladesh; test the effect of these sourcing factors with regards to United States apparel imports; and identify relationships among sourcing factors regarding Bangladesh and United States imports. An online survey was administered to 106 industry professionals related to sourcing in the US. Data was analyzed using descriptive statistics and multiple regression. Participants found Bangladesh as a favorable apparel sourcing destination for several reasons. Results indicated many US apparel retailers, brands, and importers do not have experience sourcing apparel from Bangladesh. Additionally, results indicated participants were not aware of the detailed offerings of the vertically integrated Bangladeshi vendors. Inexpensive labor and standard product quality were considered positive influencing factors to source apparel from Bangladesh. Participants found import tariff and lead time as constraints for Bangladesh. Currency exchange rate between US dollar and Bangladeshi taka was not considered an issue by the participants. Results of this study indicate multiple advantages exist for US based apparel companies to source their manufacturing in Bangladesh.