Kaffe Bueno, ett bioteknologiskt start-up-företag dedikerat till framsteg inom naturliga och gröna produkter, fokuserar på att utnyttja den outnyttjade potentialen hos kaffebiprodukter genom grön kemi och bioteknik. Då endast 1% av kaffet används för bryggning, extraherar företaget lösliga och olösliga produkter genom en uppdelning mellan ett oljeutvinning och ett efterföljande vattenuttag, vilket bidrar till att sänka CO2-utsläppen per värde och en cirkulär ekonomi. Inom hudvård har Kaffe Bueno tidigare utvecklat en BB-kräm med återvunnen kaffesump för pigmentering och hudvårdsfördelar, men stötte på utmaningar när det gäller täckning jämfört med syntetiska BB-krämer, vilket ledde till målet med detta examensarbete. Målet med denna studie är att formulera en helt växtbaserad BB-kräm med optimal täckning, överträffa standarden satt av syntetiska kemiska BB-krämer. Den centrala fråga som styr forskningen är: "Vilka är de optimala formuleringsrstrategierna och växtbaserade ingredienserna för att uppnå högsta täckning i en helt växtbaserad BB-kräm samtidigt som stabilitet säkerställs?". Denna forskning stämmer överens med den globala kosmetikindustrins växande efterfråga av hållbara, växtbaserade formuleringar, som svar på konsumenternas preferenser för miljövänliga produkter. Forskningen inkluderar utveckling av en växtbaserad vit baskräm utan titanoxid eller zinkoxid, och sedan användning av naturliga pigment som KAFFAGE® för att justera färgen, säkerställa hållbarhet, täckning och stabilitet över tid, vid ljusexponering och användning. Sammanfattningsvis formulerades under denna studie framgångsrikt en växtbaserad BB-kräm med täckning jämförbar med marknadsstandarder, undvikande av traditionella järnoxider och med användning av hållbara ingredienser som KAFFAGE-BD®-pigment, även om användning av titandioxid (TiO2) fortfarande krävs. Forskningen betonade vikten av texturoptimering, färgmatchning och sensorisk perception, vilket positionerar BB-krämen som en pålitlig och mångsidig kosmetisk lösning. Framtida forskning bör prioritera undersökning av alternativ till TiO2, såsom mikrokristallin cellulosa, för att förbättra hållbarheten i BB-krämens formulering. / Kaffe Bueno, a bioscience startup company dedicated to advancing natural and green products, focuses on harnessing the untapped potential of coffee by-products through green chemistry and biotechnology. With only 1% of coffee utilized for brewing, the company extracts soluble and insoluble products through a partion between an oil extraction and a subsequent water extraction, contributing to lowering the CO2 emissions per value from coffee consumption and a circular economy. In skincare, Kaffe Bueno previously developed a Beauty Balm cream using ingredients from upcycled spent coffee grounds for pigmentation and skincare benefits, but faced challenges in achieving coverage comparable to synthetic BB creams, prompting the goal of this master thesis. The objective of this study is to formulate an all plant-based BB cream with optimal coverage, surpassing the standard set by synthetic BB creams. The central question guiding the research is: "What are the optimal formulation strategies and plant-based ingredients for achieving the highest coverage in an all plant-based BB cream while ensuring stability?". This research aligns with the global cosmetic industry's growing demand for sustainable, plant-based formulations, responding to consumer preferences for eco-friendly products. The research includes developing a white plant-based base cream without titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, and then utilizing natural pigments like KAFFAGE® to adjust the tint, ensuring sustainability, up-to-standard coverage, stability over time, light exposition and use. Tests conducted to validate the product’s performance and quality include a stability test, a sensory panel evaluation, a sweat test, and other relevant assessments to ensure the cream's effectiveness, user satisfaction, and compliance with industry standards. In conclusion, this study successfully formulated a plant-based BB cream with coverage comparable to market benchmarks, circumventing traditional iron oxides and relying on sustainable ingredients like KAFFAGE-BD®, even though the use of titanium dioxide (TiO2) is still needed. The research emphasized the importance of texture optimization, color matching, and sensory perception, highlighting the essential attributes for BB creams in general and positioning this particular BB cream as a reliable and versatile cosmetic solution. Future research should prioritize exploring alternatives to TiO2, such as microcrystalline cellulose, to enhance sustainability in BB cream formulations.

The aim of this diploma thesis was create a natural BB cream that, in addition to sufficient hydration, would protect the skin from sunlight, unify its colour tone and at the same time sufficiently cover any imperfections. After proposition a suitable recipe, it was necessary to determine the stability of the prepared BB creams. The stability was evaluated by comparing the results from the dispersion analyser LUMiSizer at various temperatures and current load tests in an oven. The pseudoplastic properties were confirmed by the rheology characterization of the flow properties, which makes the BB cream a continuous layer on the skin after it is spread. In order to protect against sunlight, it was necessary to determine the SPF and measure the colour shades of the prepared BB creams for comparison with commercially available preparations.

The aim of this diploma thesis is to propose a recipe of natural BB-creams with the desired properties (different color shades, that will be suitable for Central European skin type; flow properties, texture, spreadability, stability). The experimental part of the thesis is mainly focused on the development of BB-cream formulas. Several different formulations with diverse dispersion medium (water and aloe vera/water in a suitable ratio) have been proposed, and three different shades of BB-cream have been developed. The flow properties (viscosity) of the samples were measured, accelerated stability tests were realized by using the dispersion analyzer LUMISizer, the obtained results were correlated with the results of stress temperature tests. The results of the rheological analysis showed that the flow properties of the creams are comparable with commercially available preparations. Stress temperature tests have shown that prepared samples remain stable over 4 cycles (12 weeks) of changing storage temperature, accelerated destabilization tests performed by LUMISizer confirmed their stability. The colour coordinates of the developed shades were measured using a spectrophotometer and compared with commercial analogues. Also the questionnaire for sensory evaluation of preparations for more comprehensive analysis of prepared BB-creams was developed. The 25 female respondents of different ages participated in servey. The results of sensory evaluation showed that textural properties of developed creams are satisfactory for potential consumers.