• Refine Query
  • Source
  • Publication year
  • to
  • Language
  • 5
  • 3
  • 2
  • 1
  • 1
  • Tagged with
  • 17
  • 17
  • 5
  • 4
  • 3
  • 3
  • 3
  • 3
  • 3
  • 3
  • 2
  • 2
  • 2
  • 2
  • 2
  • About
  • The Global ETD Search service is a free service for researchers to find electronic theses and dissertations. This service is provided by the Networked Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations.
    Our metadata is collected from universities around the world. If you manage a university/consortium/country archive and want to be added, details can be found on the NDLTD website.
11

Experimental Study on Kinematics and Dynamics of Breaking Waves in Deep Water

Lim, Ho Joon 2010 August 1900 (has links)
A new measurement technique called fiber optic reflectometer (FOR) was developed to investigate multiphase flows. The principle and setup of the FOR technique were introduced and applied to various experiments. Based on the coherently mixed signal between the Fresnel reflection off the fiber-liquid interface and the scattered signal off the object, such as a gas bubble, and a solid particle, this single probe technique is capable of simultaneously measuring the velocity of the object with a high accuracy and the phase of the fluid. In addition, bubble diameter, velocity, and void fraction were measured directly. By means of a simple modification of the FOR technique, solute concentration and refractive index change were measured with a greatly improved accuracy. This modified technique was used for measuring of a NaCl concentration in deionized water to validate a new normalization technique. In the second part of this thesis, a plunging breaking wave in deep water has been studied. Using the wave focusing method, a strong plunging breaker was generated with accuracy in the deep water condition in a two-dimensional wave tank. It was possible to describe the breaking process in detail using a high speed camera with a frame rate of 500 or 1000 fps. Four kinds of experimental techniques were employed or developed to investigate the plunging breaker. Bubble image velocimetry (BIV) and particle image velocimetry (PIV) were used to measure the velocity fields. The velocity fields of the highly aerated region were obtained from the BIV measurements. In addition, the modified PIV technique is capable of measuring the velocities in the entire flow field including the aerated region. Mean and turbulent properties were obtained by the ensemble average. The mean velocity, mean vorticity, and mean kinetic energy were examined over the entire flow field. In addition, the Reynolds stresses and turbulent kinetic energy were calculated with high temporal and spatial resolutions. Free surface elevation was obtained from wave gauge measurements. BIV and PIV images were also used to obtain the free surface elevation and the boundary of the aerated region for more accurate results. The FOR technique was used to obtain the void ratio at each splash-up region. Compressibility of the plunging breaker was considered. Mass flux, momentum flux, kinetic energy, and Reynolds stresses at each FOR station were recalculated using the void ratio obtained from the FOR measurements. All terms at the first splash-up region were highly overestimated more than 100 percent unless the void ratio was applied to the calculation of fluxes and energies. Compared with the fully developed first splash-up region, the overestimation at the second and third splash-up was less significant. However, most terms were overestimated by 20~30 percent when the void ratio was not considered.
12

Extreme wave conditions and the impact on wave energy converters

Katsidoniotaki, Eirini January 2021 (has links)
The amount of energy enclosed in ocean waves has been classified as one of the most promising renewable energy sources. Nowadays, different wave energy conversion (WEC) systems are being investigated, but only a few concepts have been operated in a sea environment. One of the largest challenges is to guarantee the offshore survivability of the devices in extreme wave conditions. However, there are large uncertainties related to the prediction of extreme wave loads on WECs.  Highfidelity computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations can resolve nonlinear hydrodynamic effects associated with wave-structure interaction (WSI). This thesis explores the point-absorbing WEC developed by Uppsala University in extreme wave conditions. The dynamic response and the forces on key components (mooring line, buoy, generator's end-stop spring) of the device are studied and compared. The high nonlinear phenomena accompany the steep and high waves, i.e., breaking behavior, slamming loads can be well-captured by the highfidelity CFD simulations. A commonly used methodology for extreme waves selection, recommended by technical specifications and guidelines, is the environmental contour approach. The 100-year contour in Hamboldt Bay site in California and the 50-year contour in the Dowsing site, outside the UK, are utilized to extract the extreme waves examined in the present thesis. Popular methodologies and data from different sources (observational and hindcast data) are examined for the environmental contour generation providing useful insights. Moreover, two popular approaches for the numerical representation of the extreme sea states, either as focused wave or as equivalent regular wave, were examined and compared. A midfidelity model of the WEC is successfully verified, as the utilization of lower fidelity tools in the design stage would reduce the computational cost. Last but not least, in CFD simulations the computational grid is sensitive in large motions, something often occurs during extreme-WSI. The solution of this issue for the open source CFD software OpenFOAM is provided here.
13

Studie av två jetströmsstråk associerade med kraftig flygturbulens / Study of two jet streaks associated with severe in-flight turbulence

Lee, Leon January 2011 (has links)
Jetströmmar betyder mycket för meteorologer och fungerar som ett hjälpmedel för prognostisering av lågtryck. Kvadrantmodellen för jetströmsstråk beskriver hur det kan bildas lågtryck och konvergens vid marknivå på olika sidor om jetströmmen. Jetströmmar är också av betydelse för flygtrafiken, eftersom man kan spara tid och bränsle genom att flyga in i – eller genom att inte flyga in i – en jetström. Det är känt att jetströmmar ibland kan ge upphov till klarluftsturbulens (CAT), och studier har visat att turbulensen ofta är associerade med stabilt stratifierade zoner i närheten av jetströmmen. Denna studie börjar med en teoridel där jetströmmars uppkomst och kvadrantmodellen redogörs. Teoridelen fortsätter med en kort beskrivning av hur jetströmmar påverkar flygtrafiken och vad det finns för system som varnar för farliga fenomen som är kopplade till jetströmmarna. Det tas även upp att flygturbulensen som upplevs av flygplan inte nödvändigtvis orsakas av termisk eller mekanisk turbulens, utan även kan orsakas av stående vågor. I arbetets senare del görs en fallstudie på två jetströmmar som gav upphov till kraftig flygturbulens under januari månad 2011. Från sonderingsdata beräknades Scorer-parametern och Richardsons tal för att se om dessa värden kunde relateras till flygturbulensen. Resultatet visade att Richardsons tal aldrig föll under 0.25 och antyder därför att det inte fanns någon fullt utvecklad turbulens. Vågor i luften kan därför vara en förklaring till flygturbulensen. Resultatet visade också att Scorer-parametern antog lokala minima och hade tydligare relation till flygturbulensen än Richardsons tal vad gäller flygturbulensens position i höjdled. / Jet streams are useful as a tool for meteorologist to make forecasts of low pressure areas. The four quadrant model describing jet streaks reveals how lows and convergence could form over ground levels on different sides of a jet streak. Jet streams are also of great importance for the aviation industry, as one could save time and fuel by flying into – or by not flying into – a jet stream. It is known that the jet streams sometimes can induce Clear Air Turbulence (CAT), and studies have shown that the turbulence is often associated with stable stratified layers in the vicinity of the jet stream. This study starts with a theory section describing the cause of jet streams and the four quadrant model. The theory section continues with a description of why jet streams could be a hazard for airplanes, and also a description of existing reporting and warning systems that are used to prevent pilots from flying into dangerous phenomena. In this section, it is also emphasized that in-flight turbulence not necessarily is a result of thermal or mechanical turbulence, but could also be induced by standing waves in the atmosphere. The latter part of this report is a case study of two jet streaks that was the cause of severe in-flight turbulence in January 2011. The Scorer parameter and the Richardson number were computed using data from atmospheric soundings. The results show that the Richardson number never fell below 0.25, suggesting that there were no fully-developed turbulence. Waves in the air could therefore be an alternative explanation to the reported in-flight turbulence. The results also show that the Scorer parameter had local minima on the levels where the in-flight turbulence occurred. In contrast to this, the Richardson number had no apparent relation to the position of the reported turbulence.
14

Waves and turbulence on submerged and emergent aquatic vegetation

Pujol Company, M. Dolors 16 April 2013 (has links)
Coastal zones are governed by physical forces originating from tidal currents, waves, winds and night convection, amongst others, and are characterized by the presence of canopy meadows. This thesis studies the hydrodynamic in a fluid dominated by: nearly isotropic turbulence, progressive waves and breaking waves in different canopy models. Under nearly isotropic turbulence sheltering is enhanced by a reduction in the plant-to-plant distance. Under progressive waves sheltering is associated with the reduction of wave velocity at the top of submerged rigid canopy. Sheltering observed in the submerged flexible model is caused by blade movement which absorbes the energy. Emergent rigid vegetation shows sheltering. On the other hand, for some specific progressive wave conditions and plant densities and under a fluid dominated by breaking waves, turbulence increases within the meadow if Reynolds number, based on wave velocity, is larger than 300 / Les zones costeres estan governades per forces físiques originades per la marea, l’onatge, i la convecció nocturna, entre d’altres, i caracteritzades per la presència de plantes aquàtiques. Aquesta tesi té per objectiu estudiar la hidrodinàmica d’un fluid dominat per: turbulència quasi-isotròpica, onades progressives i onades trencants en diferents models de vegetació. En un fluid dominat per turbulència isotròpica, la reducció de la turbulència augmenta al reduir la distància entre plantes. En un fluid dominat per onades progressives, la disminució de la turbulència està associada a la reducció de la velocitat d’onada al cim de la vegetació. Aquesta reducció s’observa en plantes submergides flexibles degut a que el moviment de les plantes absorbeix l’energia. La vegetació emergent també redueix la turbulència. Per condicions específiques d’onades progressives i densitat de plantes i sota un fluid dominat per onades trencants, la turbulència incrementa si el número de Reynolds és més gran que 300
15

A field and laboratory study on the dynamic response of the Eddystone lighthouse to wave loading

Banfi, Davide January 2018 (has links)
Because little was known about how the masonry lighthouses constructed during the 19th century at exposed locations around the British Isles were responding to wave action, the dynamic response of the Eddystone lighthouse under wave impacts was investigated. Like other so called 'rock lighthouses', the Eddystone lighthouse was built on top of a steep reef at a site that is fully submerged at most states of the tide. Consequently, the structure is exposed to loading by unbroken, breaking and broken waves. When the breaking occurs, wave loading leads to complex phenomena that cannot be described theoretically due to the unknown mixture of air and water involved during the wave-structure interaction. In addition, breaking waves are generally distinguished from unbroken and broken wave due to the fact that they cause impulsive loads. As a consequence, the load effects on the structural response require a dynamic analysis. In this investigation the dynamic response of the Eddystone lighthouse is investigated both in the field and by means of a small-scale model mounted in a laboratory wave channel. In particular, field data obtained by the use of geophones, cameras and a wave buoy are presented together with wave loading information obtained during the laboratory tests under controlled conditions. More than 3000 structural events were recorded during the exceptional sequence of winter storms that hit the South-West of England in 2013/2014. The geophone signals, which provide the structural response in terms of velocity data, are differentiated and integrated in order to obtain accelerations and displacements respectively. Dynamic responses show different behaviours and higher structural frequencies, which are related to more impulsive loads, tend to exhibit a predominant sharp peak in velocity time histories. As a consequence, the structural responses have been classified into four types depending on differences of ratio peaks in the time histories and spectra. Field video images indicate that higher structural frequencies are usually associated with loads caused by plunging waves that break on or just in front of the structure. However, higher structural velocities and accelerations do not necessarily lead to the largest displacements of around a tenth of mm. Thus, while the impulsive nature of the structural response depends on the type of wave impact, the magnitude of the structural deflections is strongly affected by both elevation of the wave force on the structure and impact duration, as suggested by structural numerical simulations and laboratory tests respectively. The latter demonstrate how the limited water depth strongly affects the wave loading. In particular, only small plunging waves are able to break on or near the structure and larger waves that break further away can impose a greater overall impulse due to the longer duration of the load. As a consequence of the depth limited conditions, broken waves can generate significant deflections in the case of the Eddystone lighthouse. However, maximum accelerations of about 0.1g are related to larger plunging waves that are still able to hit the lighthouse with a plunging jet. When compared to the Iribarren number, the dimensionless irregular momentum flux proposed by Hughes is found to be a better indicator concerning the occurrence of the structural response types. This is explained by the fact that the Iribarren number does not to take into account the effects of the wide tidal range at the Eddystone reef, which has a strong influence on the location of the breaking point with respect to the lighthouse. Finally, maximum run up were not able to rise up to the top of the lighthouse model during the laboratory tests, despite this having been observed in the field. As a consequence, the particular configuration of the Eddystone reef and the wind could have a considerable bearing and exceptional values of the run up, greater than 40 m, cannot be excluded in the field.
16

Etude de la signature EM bistatique d'une surface maritime hétérogène avec prise en compte des phénomènes hydrodynamiques / Study of EM bistatic signature of a heterogeneous sea surface with consideration of hydrodynamic phenomena

Ben Khadra, Slahedine 07 December 2012 (has links)
Le travail réalisé dans cette thèse s'intègre globalement dans le cadre de I'observation et la surveillance maritime.Afin d'améliorer la reconnaissance et I'identification automatique de cibles noyées dans un environnement perturbé, nous avons opté à la fusion de différentes connaissances et informations concernant une scène observée à distance par des capteurs micro-ondes. En effet, plusieurs phénomènes physiques co-existent et perturbent la propagation des ondes électromagnétiques au-dessus d'une surface et notamment au-dessus d'une surface maritime hétérogène (la réfraction due aux gradients d'indice, la rugosité de la surface de mer, les effets hydrodynamiques non linéaires du type vagues déferlantes, la présence d'objets, les polluants, sillage de navires, zones côtières, ...). Dans ce contexte, le travail présenté dans cette thèse porte sur l'étude de la signature électromagnétique (coefficients de diffusion) d'une surface maritime hétérogène avec la prise en compte des phénomènes hydrodynamiques (linéaires : vagues de capillarité et de gravité, non linéaires : vagues déferlantes). Cette estimation de la signature électromagnétique est effectuée en configuration bistatique (monostatique et propagation avant) et en bande X. L'étude complète de cette problématique est difficile. En effet, le déferlement est un processus dissipatif de l'énergie qui correspond à la dernière étape de la vie d'une vague et qui a donc le plus souvent lieu à I'approche du rivage. Ce phénomène non linéaire produit un pic de mer qui est une augmentation rapide des coefficients de diffusion et qui peut dépasser 10 dB dans une période de 100 ms. Ce pic peut conduire à des échos parasites, qui peuvent être identifiés comme des cibles virtuelles, et par la suite elles peuvent perturber le système de détection radar (fausses alarmes). Par conséquent, pour améliorer le processus de détection et pour réduire le taux de fausses alarmes, il est important de distinguer entre les cibles et les pics de mer générés par des vagues déferlantes. Ceci constitue I’une des motivations et aussi I'intérêt d'étudier la signature électromagnétique des vagues déferlantes dans différentes configurations d'observation de sorte que nous puissions facilement indiquer la présence voir I'identification des pics de mer. Pour contribuer à cette problématique, nous avons proposé une méthodologie basée sur un modèle électromagnétique hybride basé sur une combinaison d'une part de méthodes asymptotiques(SPMI utilisée dans le cadre de ce travail) pour simuler la réponse radar des vagues linéaire (vagues de capillarité et de gravité décrites via le spectre de mer d'Elfouhaily), et d'autre part de méthodes exactes (MoM, FB < Forward-Backward ) retenue dans le travail présenté dans ce manuscrit) pour calculer la réponse électromagnétique des vagues non-linéaires (profils considérés sont issus des résultats du code LONGTANK). Afìn de compléter l'étude théorique et les simulations réalisées, nous avons effectué une phase d'évaluation et de validation par des mesures de signature radar réalisées dans la chambre anéchoïque de I'Ensta Bretagne. / The work done in this thesis fits generally under the observation and maritime surveillance. To improve the detection and automatic identification of targets embedded in a noisy environment targets, we opted for the fusion of different knowledge and information regarding a remotely observed scene by microwave sensors. Indeed, several physical phenomena co-exist and interfere with the propagation of electromagnetic waves over a heterogeneous sea surface (the refraction due to the index gradients, the roughness of the sea surface, nonlinear hydrodynamic effects like waves breaking, the presence of objects, pollutants, ship wake, coastal areas,..). In this context, the work presented in this thesis focuses on the study of electromagnetic signature (diffusion coefficients) of a heterogeneous sea surface with consideration of hydrodynamic phenomena (linear: capillary and gravity waves, nonlinear: breaking waves). The electromagnetic signature is performed in bistatic configuration (monostatic and forward propagating) and in X-band. The complete study of this problem is difficult.Indeed, the breaking wave is a dissipative process of energy that corresponds to the last stage of the life of a wave and therefore has most often held in the shore. This nonlinear phenomenon produces a sea peak which is a rapid increase of the diffusion coefficients and can exceed l0 dB in a 100 ms period. This peak can lead to clutter, which can be identified as virtual targets, and then they can disrupt the detection radar system (false alarms). Therefore, to improve the detection process and reduce the false alarm rate, it is important to distinguish between targets and sea peaks generated by breaking waves. This represents one of the motivations and also the interest to study the electromagnetic signature of breaking waves in different observation configurations so that we can easily detect and identify the sea peaks. To solve this problem, we proposed a methodology based on a hybrid electromagnetic model which is on a combination of asymptotic methods (SPMI used in this work) to simulate the radar response of linear waves (capillary and gravity waves described via the Elfouhaily sea spectrum) and an exact methods, the method of moment (the FB "Forward-Backward" method is used in this work), to calculate the electromagnetic response of nonlinear waves (profiles are produced by the LONGTANK code). To complement the theoretical study and simulations, we carried out an evaluation and validation phase by measuring the radar signature of breaking wave profiles in the ENSTA Bretagne anechoic chamber.
17

Overtopping flow on mound breakwaters under depth-limited breaking wave conditions

Mares Nasarre, Patricia 22 February 2021 (has links)
[ES] El cambio climático y la conciencia social sobre el impacto de las infraestructuras en el medio está llevando a la necesidad de diseñar diques en talud con cotas de coronación reducidas frente a eventos de rebase más extremos. Además, la mayoría de estos diques se construyen en zonas de profundidades reducidas, donde el oleaje rompe a causa de la limitación por fondo. Estudios recientes apuntan a la necesidad de considerar no sólo la caudal medio de rebase (q) sino también el máximo volumen individual de rebase (Vmax), el espesor de lámina de agua (OLT) y la velocidad del flujo de rebase (OFV) en el diseño de la cota de coronación de un dique en talud según criterios de rebase. No obstante, existen pocos estudios en la literatura científica centrados en Vmax en estructuras costeras sometidas a oleaje limitado por fondo. Además, estos estudios proporcionan resultados contradictorios en relación a la influencia de la limitación por fondo del oleaje sobre Vmax. En cuanto a OLT y OFV, no se han encontrado estudios en la literatura científica que permitan su predicción en diques en talud. En esta tesis doctoral, se han realizado ensayos físicos 2D en diques en talud rebasables (0.3≤Rc/Hm0≤2.5) sin espaldón y con tres mantos principales (Cubípodo®-1L, cubo-2L y escollera-2L) sobre dos pendientes de fondo suaves (m=2% and 4%) en condiciones de oleaje limitado por fondo (0.2≤Hm0/h≤0.9). Vmax junto con q son las variables más recomendadas en la literatura científica para diseñar la cota de coronación de diques en talud según criterios de rebase. En el presente estudio, los mejores resultados en la estimación de Vmax*=Vmax/(gHm0T012) se han obtenido empleando la función de distribución Weibull de dos parámetros con un coeficiente de determinación R2=0.833. Durante la fase de diseño de un dique en talud, es necesario predecir q para calcular Vmax cuando se emplean los métodos dados en la literatura científica. Por tanto, se debe estimar q con fines de diseño si no se dispone de observaciones directas. En caso de emplear la red neuronal CLASH NN para estimar q (R2=0.636), la bondad de ajuste de la función de distribución Weibull de dos parámetros propuesta en esta tesis para predecir Vmax* es R2=0.617. Así, el ratio entre Vmax* medido y estimado cae dentro del rango de 1/2 a 2 (banda de confianza del 90%) cuando se emplea q estimado con CLASH NN. Los nuevos estimadores desarrollados en la presente disertación proporcionan resultados satisfactorios en la predicción de Vmax* con un método más simple que aquellos propuestos en la literatura científica. No se ha encontrado una influencia significativa de la pendiente de fondo ni de la limitación por fondo del oleaje sobre Vmax* en este estudio. OLT y OFV están directamente relacionados con la estabilidad hidráulica de la coronación del dique y la seguridad peatonal frente a rebase. Por tanto, se requiere estimar OLT y OFV en la coronación del dique para diseñar apropiadamente su cota de coronación empleando criterios de rebase. En este estudio, se han empleado redes neuronales para desarrollar nuevos estimadores explícitos que permiten predecir OLT y OFV superados por el 2% del oleaje incidente con un alto coeficiente de determinación (0.866≤R2≤0.867). El número de cifras significativas apropiado para los coeficientes experimentales de dichos estimadores se ha determinado en base a su variabilidad. El punto óptimo en el que las características del oleaje deben ser estimadas para predecir OLT y OFV se ha identificado a una distancia de 3h desde el pie de la estructura (siendo h la profundidad a pie de dique). La pendiente de fondo tiene influencia sobre OLT y OFV. Los valores más extremos de OLT y OFV se han descrito empleando las distribuciones Exponencial de un parámetro y Rayleigh, respectivamente, con resultados satisfactorios (0.803≤R2≤0.812). / [CA] El canvi climàtic i la consciència social sobre l'impacte de les infraestructures al medi està portant a la necessitat de dissenyar dics en talús amb cotes de coronació reduïdes front a esdeveniments d'ultrapassament més extrems. A més, la majoria dels dics es construeixen en zones amb profunditats reduïdes on l'onatge es trenca a causa de la limitació per fons. Estudis recents apunten a la necessitat de considerar no solament el cabal mitjà de sobrepasse (q) sinó també el màxim volum individual de sobrepasse (Vmax), l'espessor de la làmina d'aigua (OLT) i la velocitat del flux de sobrepasse (OFV) pel disseny de la cota de coronació d'un dic en talús segons criteris de sobrepasse. No obstant, existeixen pocs estudis a la literatura científica centrats en Vmax en estructures costeres sotmeses a onatge limitat per fons. Addicionalment, aquests estudis proporcionen resultats contradictoris en relació a la influència de la limitació per fons de l'onatge sobre Vmax. Quant a OLT i OFV, no s'han trobat estudis a la literatura científica que permeten la seua predicció a dics en talús. En aquesta tesi doctoral, s'han realitzat assajos físics 2D amb dics en talús amb sobrepassos rellevants (0.3≤Rc/Hm0≤2.5) sense espatlló i amb tres elements al mantell principal (Cubípode-1L, cubs-2L i esculleres-2L) ubicats sobre pendents de fons suaus (m=2% i 4%) en condicions d'onatge limitat pel fons (0.2≤Hm0/h≤0.9). Vmax conjuntament amb q són les variables més recomanades a la literatura científica per dissenyar la cota de coronació en dics en talús segons criteris d'ultrapassament. Al present estudi, els millors resultats en l'estimació de Vmax*=Vmax/(gHm0T012) s'han obtingut utilitzant la funció de distribució Weibull de dos paràmetres amb un elevat coeficient de determinació R2=0.833. Durant la fase de disseny d'un dic en talús, és necessari predir q per calcular Vmax quan s'utilitzen els mètodes donats a la literatura científica. Per tant, es deu estimar q amb fins de disseny si no es disposa d'observacions directes. Si s'aplica la xarxa neuronal de CLASH NN per estimar q (R2=0.636), la bondat d'ajust de la funció de distribució Weibull de dos paràmetres proposada a aquesta tesi per predir Vmax* és R2=0.617. Així doncs, el ràtio entre el Vmax* mesurat i estimat es troba dins del rang de 1/2 a 2 (banda de confiança del 90%) quan s'usa q predit amb CLASH NN. Els nous estimadors desenvolupats a aquesta dissertació proporcionen resultats satisfactoris en la predicció de Vmax* amb un mètode més senzill que aquells proposats a la literatura científica. No s'ha trobat una influència significativa de la pendent de fons ni de la limitació de l'onatge per fons sobre Vmax* a aquest estudi. OLT i OFV estan directament relacionats amb l'estabilitat hidràulica de la coronació de dics i la seguretat de vianants front a ultrapassaments. Per tant, es requereix estimar OLT i OFV en la coronació de dics per dissenyar apropiadament la seua cota de coronació utilitzant criteris de sobrepasse. En aquest estudi, s'han usat xarxes neuronals per desenvolupar nous estimadors explícits que permeten predir OLT i OFV superats pel 2% de l'onatge incident amb un elevat coeficient de determinació (0.866≤R2≤0.867). El nombre de xifres significatives apropiat per als coeficients experimentals dels mencionats estimadors s'ha determinat basant-se en la seua variabilitat. El punt òptim on determinar les característiques de l'onatge deuen ser estimades per predir OLT i OFV s'ha identificat a una distància de 3h des del peu de l'estructura (on h és la profunditat a peu de dic). La pendent de fons té influència sobre OLT i OFV. Els valors més extrems de OLT i OFV s'han descrit amb les distribucions Exponencial d'un paràmetre i Rayleigh, respectivament, amb resultats satisfactoris (0.803≤R2≤0.812). / [EN] Climate change and the social concern about the impact of infrastructures is leading to mound breakwaters with reduced crest freeboards facing higher extreme overtopping events. In addition, most mound breakwaters are built in the surf zone where depth-limited wave breaking takes place. Recent studies point out the need of considering not only the mean wave overtopping discharge (q) but also the maximum individual wave overtopping volume (Vmax), the overtopping layer thickness (OLT) and the overtopping flow velocity (OFV) when designing mound breakwater crest elevation using overtopping criteria. However, few studies in the literature are focused on Vmax on coastal structures under depth-limited breaking wave conditions. In addition, those few studies report contradictory conclusions regarding the significance of depth-limited breaking waves on Vmax. With respect to OLT and OFV, no studies are found in the literature for their prediction on mound breakwaters. In this PhD thesis, 2D physical model tests were conducted on overtopped mound breakwaters (0.3≤Rc/Hm0≤2.5) without a crown wall armored with three armor layers (Cubipod®-1L, cube-2L and rock-2L) on two gentle bottom slopes (m=2% and 4%) in depth-limited breaking wave conditions (0.2≤Hm0/h≤0.9). Vmax together with q are the most recommended variables in the literature to design mound breakwater crest elevation based on overtopping criteria. In the present study, the 2-parameter Weibull distribution provides the best results when estimating Vmax*=Vmax/(gHm0T012) with coefficient of determination R2=0.833. During the design phase of a mound breakwater, q is needed to predict Vmax using methods given in the literature. Thus, q must be estimated for design purposes when direct observations are not available. If CLASH NN is used to estimate q (R2=0.636), the goodness-of-fit of the 2-parameter Weibull distribution proposed in this thesis to predict Vmax* is R2=0.617. Hence, the ratio between the estimated and measured Vmax* falls within the range 1/2 to 2 (90% error band) when q is predicted using CLASH NN. The new estimators derived in this study provide satisfactory estimations of Vmax* with a method simpler than those found in the literature. Neither the bottom slope nor the depth-induced wave breaking seem to significantly influence the dimensionless Vmax* in this study. OLT and OFV are directly related to the hydraulic stability of the armored crest and the pedestrian safety. Thus, OLT and OFV are required to properly design crest elevation using overtopping criteria. Neural Networks (NNs) are used in this study to develop new explicit unbiased estimators for the OLT and OFV exceeded by 2% of the incoming waves with a high coefficient of determination (0.866≤R2≤0.867). The appropriate number of significant figures of the empirical coefficients of such estimators is selected according to their variability. The optimum point where wave characteristics are determined to predict OLT and OFV was identified at a distance of 3h from the toe of the structure (where h is the water depth at the toe of the structure). The bottom slope does influence both OLT and OFV. The most extreme values of OLT and OFV are described with the 1-parameter Exponential and Rayleigh distribution functions, respectively, with satisfactory results (0.803≤R2≤0.812). / Al Ministerio de Educación, Cultura y Deporte, por la financiación brindada con el programa de Formación de Profesorado Universitario (FPU16/05081). Al Ministerio de Economía y Competitividad, por la financiación de los proyectos ESBECO (EStabilidad hidráulica del manto, BErmas y COronación de diques en talud con rebase y rotura por fondo, BIA2015-70436-R) y HOLOBREAK (Estabilidad Hidráulica y Transmisión de Diques Rompeolas Homogéneos de Baja Cota Diseñados a Rotura por Fondo, RTI2018-101073-B-I00-AR). / Mares Nasarre, P. (2021). Overtopping flow on mound breakwaters under depth-limited breaking wave conditions [Tesis doctoral]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/163154 / TESIS

Page generated in 0.0491 seconds