Devido ao processo de urbanização sem planejamento adequado, as cidades costeiras sofrem com as inundações e erosão das praias com a elevação do nível do mar e ação de ondas. Entre as estruturas mais utilizadas para proteção de praias destacam-se os quebra-mares segmentados. Para estudar e prever as respostas praiais à presença destas estruturas, podem ser empregados modelos numéricos, capazes de calcular os processos complexos deste ambiente. Este trabalho teve como objetivo o estudo da resposta hidrodinâmica e sedimentar de uma praia com a implantação de quebra-mares segmentados. O modelo hidrodinâmico utilizado é o MIKE21FM acoplado ao modelo de ondas SW e sedimentos ST e SM. Primeiramente, foram impostas condições hidrodinâmicas simplificadas e diferentes arranjos de quebra-mares segmentados. As áreas erodidas e acrescidas após a implantação da obra foram comparadas e priorizou-se minimizar a área erodida. Em seguida, foram considerados os cenários de condições hidrodinâmicas variadas com uma das estruturas. Os resultados são apresentados em termos de altura significativa e potência de onda para 18 casos de condições hidrodinâmicas constantes, as quais foram feitas variar em nível e características da onda. Para a condição hidrodinâmica mais crítica, obteve-se uma redução de 0,4m da altura significativa média e 2kW/m da potência média da onda. Através desses resultados é possível aquilatar a proteção da região da praia da ação das ondas após a implantação da estrutura. Além disso, foram feitas duas simulações com 3 a 4 meses de evolução do fundo em condições hidrodinâmicas reais, com o intuito de apresentar qualitativamente as áreas de erosão e acreção do fundo da praia. Resultados mostraram que a deriva litorânea local tem direção sudeste, para a Ponta da Praia. Foi observada sedimentação no tardoz dos segmentos e na região de sombra e erosão nas áreas entre segmentos e a frente destes. Com isso, este trabalho colabora com o gerenciamento costeiro na região de Santos, apresentando o início de uma pesquisa para uma possível solução para os problemas de inundação e erosão da região da Ponta da Praia. / Erosion and flooding are common problems faced by coastal cities as a consequence of urbanization process without previous planning, with the sea level rise and the wave action. In order to mitigate these problems, shoreline protection structures are constructed along the coastlines, such as segmented breakwaters. Numerical models are tools frequently used in these studies because of its capacity of calculating the complex processes on a coastal environment. This study aim is to present a study based on the hydrodynamic and sediment transport response of a curved beach to the presence of segmented emerged breakwaters. The numerical model used is the MIKE21FM coupled with wave spectral and sediment transport modules. Firstly, constant boundary conditions were applied for the period of one year in order to understand the response of the beach to five different designs of coastal breakwaters. One of these structures were chosen to continue the study based on the area and length of the beach eroded and accreted. Secondly, eighteen different scenarios of wave and water level were applied to the selected structure and the protection of wave action were compared and analyzed. To the most critical hydrodynamic condition, the structure reduced 0,4 m of the mean significant wave height and 2 kW/m of the mean wave power. Finally, two real hydrodynamic conditions were applied and the sediment transport was qualitatively analyzed. Results show that the littoral drift in the studied area is directed to the southeast end of the beach, straight to the Ponta da Praia, without the spur breakwater, the sediment would end inside the navigation channel. Besides that, it shows the sedimentation and erosion patterns at the beach generated by the presence of the breakwater. The sediment is accumulated at the shadow area and at the lee, whereas the erosion is located at the front of the breakwaters and between the segments, as expected. Therefore, this study collaborates with the management of Santos, by presenting herewith a possible solution for the inundation and erosion problems of this area.

In near-shore transforming seas, as waves approach the shoreline, wave shoaling and sometimes wave breaking take place due to the decreasing water depth. When a ship advances through the transforming seas, the ship body and waves interact with each other substantially and can lead to unknown motions of the ship hull. The physical process of how the wave transforms in the surf zone and how the vehicle actually behaves when it passes through the transforming seas is a complicated issue that triggers considerable research interest. The goal of my research is to characterize the dynamics of a high-speed surface ship model in transforming seas through a parametric numerical study of the shipwave interactions. In this study, the vehicle of interest is a surface effect ship (SES) and we aim to contribute to developing a methodology for simulating the transforming wave environment, including wave breaking, and its interactions with the SES. The thesis work uses a commercial software package ANSYS Fluent to generate numerical waves and model the interface between water and air using the volume of fluid (VoF) method. A ship motion solver and the dynamic mesh are used to enable the modeled ship to perform three degree-of-freedom (DoF) motion and the near-region of the ship hull to deform as well as re-mesh. Non-conformal meshes with hybrid compositions of different cell types and various grid sizes are used in the simulations for different purposes. Five user-defined functions (UDFs) are dynamically linked with the flow solver to incorporates ship/grid motions, wave damping and output of the numerical results. A series of steps were taken sequentially: 1) validation for ship motions including simulation of a static Wigley hull under steady flows to compare against previous experimental results by other researchers, and the comparison between the static SES model under steady flows and the moving SES model advancing in the calm water; 2) study of the ship with 3 DoF advancing in calm water of both constant depth and varying depth; 3) validation for numerical waves, including predictions of numerically progressive waves in both a regular tank and a tank with a sloped fringing reef to compare with theoretical and experimental results, respectively; 4) investigation of the transforming characteristics of the wave traveling over the sloped fringing reef, which mimics the near-shore wave environment and a study of the dynamics of the SES through transforming waves. We find that the flow solver used in this study reliably models the wave profiles along the ship hull. The comparison between a static SES in a current and a moving SES in calm water at the same Froude number shows that although the velocity fields around the vehicle are significantly different, the wave profiles inside and outside the rigid cushion of the vehicle are similar and the resistance force experienced by the vehicle in the two scenarios agree well over time. We conducted five numerical simulations of the vehicle traveling from shallow water to deep water across the transition zone for different Froude numbers. From the results, we find that as the Froude number increases, the wave resistance force on the vehicle becomes larger in both shallow water and deep water. In addition, the overall mean resistance force experienced by the vehicle over the whole trip increases with the Froude number. Statistical analysis of the wave motions suggests that the energy flux decreases dramatically in the onshore direction as the waves break. The more severe the wave-breaking process, the greater the decrease in energy flux. Both the increase of Froude number and the wave steepness apparently increase the resistance force on the vehicle in the shallow water. This thesis work captures the impact of the transforming characteristics of the waves and closely replicates the behavior of how waves interact with a ship in transforming seas through numerical modeling and simulation. / Includes bibliography. / Dissertation (Ph.D.)--Florida Atlantic University, 2017. / FAU Electronic Theses and Dissertations Collection

Devido ao processo de urbanização sem planejamento adequado, as cidades costeiras sofrem com as inundações e erosão das praias com a elevação do nível do mar e ação de ondas. Entre as estruturas mais utilizadas para proteção de praias destacam-se os quebra-mares segmentados. Para estudar e prever as respostas praiais à presença destas estruturas, podem ser empregados modelos numéricos, capazes de calcular os processos complexos deste ambiente. Este trabalho teve como objetivo o estudo da resposta hidrodinâmica e sedimentar de uma praia com a implantação de quebra-mares segmentados. O modelo hidrodinâmico utilizado é o MIKE21FM acoplado ao modelo de ondas SW e sedimentos ST e SM. Primeiramente, foram impostas condições hidrodinâmicas simplificadas e diferentes arranjos de quebra-mares segmentados. As áreas erodidas e acrescidas após a implantação da obra foram comparadas e priorizou-se minimizar a área erodida. Em seguida, foram considerados os cenários de condições hidrodinâmicas variadas com uma das estruturas. Os resultados são apresentados em termos de altura significativa e potência de onda para 18 casos de condições hidrodinâmicas constantes, as quais foram feitas variar em nível e características da onda. Para a condição hidrodinâmica mais crítica, obteve-se uma redução de 0,4m da altura significativa média e 2kW/m da potência média da onda. Através desses resultados é possível aquilatar a proteção da região da praia da ação das ondas após a implantação da estrutura. Além disso, foram feitas duas simulações com 3 a 4 meses de evolução do fundo em condições hidrodinâmicas reais, com o intuito de apresentar qualitativamente as áreas de erosão e acreção do fundo da praia. Resultados mostraram que a deriva litorânea local tem direção sudeste, para a Ponta da Praia. Foi observada sedimentação no tardoz dos segmentos e na região de sombra e erosão nas áreas entre segmentos e a frente destes. Com isso, este trabalho colabora com o gerenciamento costeiro na região de Santos, apresentando o início de uma pesquisa para uma possível solução para os problemas de inundação e erosão da região da Ponta da Praia. / Erosion and flooding are common problems faced by coastal cities as a consequence of urbanization process without previous planning, with the sea level rise and the wave action. In order to mitigate these problems, shoreline protection structures are constructed along the coastlines, such as segmented breakwaters. Numerical models are tools frequently used in these studies because of its capacity of calculating the complex processes on a coastal environment. This study aim is to present a study based on the hydrodynamic and sediment transport response of a curved beach to the presence of segmented emerged breakwaters. The numerical model used is the MIKE21FM coupled with wave spectral and sediment transport modules. Firstly, constant boundary conditions were applied for the period of one year in order to understand the response of the beach to five different designs of coastal breakwaters. One of these structures were chosen to continue the study based on the area and length of the beach eroded and accreted. Secondly, eighteen different scenarios of wave and water level were applied to the selected structure and the protection of wave action were compared and analyzed. To the most critical hydrodynamic condition, the structure reduced 0,4 m of the mean significant wave height and 2 kW/m of the mean wave power. Finally, two real hydrodynamic conditions were applied and the sediment transport was qualitatively analyzed. Results show that the littoral drift in the studied area is directed to the southeast end of the beach, straight to the Ponta da Praia, without the spur breakwater, the sediment would end inside the navigation channel. Besides that, it shows the sedimentation and erosion patterns at the beach generated by the presence of the breakwater. The sediment is accumulated at the shadow area and at the lee, whereas the erosion is located at the front of the breakwaters and between the segments, as expected. Therefore, this study collaborates with the management of Santos, by presenting herewith a possible solution for the inundation and erosion problems of this area.

Each year storms impact coastal areas, sometimes causing significant morphologic change. Cold fronts are associated with increased wave energy and frequently occur during the winter months along many coasts, such as the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico. The higher wave energy can be responsible for a large quantity of the sediment transport resulting in rapid morphologic change. Using streamer traps, the vertical distribution of onshore-directed sediment transport during two different cold fronts on two low-wave energy beaches (i.e., along the northern Yucatan and southeast Florida) were compared with the resulting morphologic change. The objectives of this study are to: 1) analyze the grain size distribution (statistics) of sediment transported during a cold front, 2) compare the vertical sediment distribution throughout the water column, and 3) compare characteristics of bed sediment to the sediment within the water column. Understanding the changing grain size distribution of bottom sediments in comparison to directional transport (throughout the water column) should help determine the sediment fraction(s) being eroded or deposited, which could greatly improve predictions of storm-induced morphology change. / Includes bibliography. / Thesis (M.S.)--Florida Atlantic University, 2017. / FAU Electronic Theses and Dissertations Collection

Tendo em vista a importância das obras portuárias e costeiras no desenvolvimento do país e a complexidade dos fenômenos que regem os Processos Litorâneos, torna-se relevante a utilização de modelos físicos, como os canais de ondas, para otimização destes projetos. Neste sentido, os principais objetivos desta Tese são o desenvolvimento de um sistema de controle para o gerador de ondas do Laboratório de Hidráulica da Escola Politécnica da Universidade de São Paulo - LHEPUSP, capaz de gerar ondas irregulares, baseadas em espectros de energia da agitação, bem como, a partir de um estudo com caso de um molhe de berma, avaliar do ponto de vista técnico o procedimento de dimensionamento de quebra-mares com base no ensaio da estrutura frente a ondas regulares com as características da onda significativa de projeto. Uma das contribuições desta Tese é o novo sistema de controle da geração de ondas do LHEPUSP, que é capaz de gerar ondas regulares, irregulares e randômicas. A outra contribuição, referente ao estudo de caso, permitiu concluir que o emprego de ondas regulares na otimização em modelo físico de projetos de quebra-mares pode levar a dimensionamentos conservadores, e portanto de custo mais alto, principalmente no dimensionamento de obras dispostas em profundidades inferiores aos 10 m, onde foram encontradas diferenças para mais no recuo da estrutura, comparativamente com a ação de ondas irregulares de mesma altura significativa. / Considering the harbour and coastal structures significance for the Country development and the complex Littoral Processes phenomena, is an important requirement the physical models use, like wave flumes, to improve these designs. Following this context, the Thesis main purposes are to develop a wave maker control system for the Laboratório de Hidráulica da Escola Politécnica da Universidade de São Paulo - LHEPUSP wave fume able to generate irregular waves, based on wave energy spectra, and also, from a berm jetty case study, evaluate, from the technical point of view, the breakwater design procedure based on structure tests with design significative regular waves. One of the Thesis contribution is the new wave maker control system for the LHEPUSP wave fume able to generate regular, irregular and randomic waves. The other contribution, about the case study, showed as conclusion that the regular waves use for breakwaters design physical model improvement may suggest conservative results, inducing high cost structures, mainly for those ones in depths lower than 10 m, being observed larger structural backward response differences, comparing with irregular waves action with the same significative height.

The planning and management of coastal and river structures such as breakwaters, groynes, jetties, bridges and tidal inlets require accurate predictions of equilibrium morphologies. Generally these types of situations are modelled numerically using process - based models, where wave, current and sediment transport modules are applied over a number of time - steps until a steady - state morphology is obtained. Two alternative methods have been developed and applied in this thesis, based on self - organisation and entropy approaches. The self - organisation - based method utilises a cellular automata model, where local rules produce a global stable pattern through positive and negative feedback. The entropy - based method is able to predict equilibrium morphologies directly. It compares different randomly generated morphologies using an objective function and optimisation, instead of moving to an equilibrium morphology through intermediate states. This avoids some potential problems associated with traditional models such as error propagation and reliance on accurate initial conditions. The models developed in this thesis have been applied to a number of case studies. It was found that the cellular automata model obtained a higher Brier Skill Score than a comparable process - based model when predicting the equilibrium morphology associated with a channel obstruction. The entropy - based method was able to predict a realistic erosional channel in a coastal lagoon, similar to field observations at the Murray River Mouth in South Australia. It had difficulties predicting the deposition pattern due to the bias of the objective function towards erosional environments. The entropy - based method outperformed a conventional model prediction of the equilibrium erosional channel associated with a laboratory - sized lagoon, but similar problems were observed with its deposition predictive ability. The modelling methods developed in this thesis are a first step into the use of non - traditional, entropy - and self - organisation - based models for the prediction of complex equilibrium morphologies. They have made use of non - conventional models in order to explore different objective function formulations or self - organisation rules and the sensitivity of these, and have compared the models to laboratory results. The work documented in this dissertation shows that it is possible to use self - organisation - and entropy - based modelling methods to predict stable, equilibrium morphologies in coastal and river environments. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, 2006.

Wave-formed rippled sediment beds are extremely important to the processes that act on or across the sediment-water interface. Ripples increase the exchange of materials between the sediment and the water column, enhance sediment transport rates, and act to increase the dissipation of waves by increasing the hydraulic roughness of the seafloor. Previous research has, however, failed to take into account the substantial spatial and temporal variation rippled beds display when formed under real sea conditions. Based on a set of laboratory experiments a spectral method to predict and model rippled beds has been developed. Through the use of the rippled surface's spectral density function the spatial and temporal variability of the rippled surface can be taken into account with greater efficiency. A prediction method for the equilibrium ripple spectrum was developed based on a nondimensional spectral form, which utilised the peak orbital excursion diameter and the 50th percentile grain size diameter of the sediment bed. The method provided an effective technique to predict ripple parameters with the same degree of accuracy achievable at small scale as more accepted ripple prediction methods. A new method was derived to model the changes a rippled bed undergoes as it actively evolves between two given equilibrium states due to a change in surface wave conditions. The evolution of a rippled bed can be described mathematically in exactly the same way as a rippled bed growing from a flat bed condition. The method allows any bed to be modelled through time if the flow conditions and sediment properties are known. There is little advantage in using the spectral method to predict rippled beds when they are in equilibrium with the flow conditions. The main benefit of the spectral method comes when attempting to model rippled beds evolving under changed flow conditions. In the same way as the parameterisation of surface waves in terms of their spectral density function has increased the ability to model wind generated wave fields, studies of rippled beds would benefit from the increased detail and ease the spectral method brings. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, 2005.

Coastal regions are very important because they provide a lot of resources and benefits for all the humankind. Coastal defense structures protect coastal regions from wave attacks. However, the cost of construction such coastal defense structures are very high and need big investments. Hence, to reach the optimum design and minimize the risk of failure has vital importance during the design stage of these structures. Model studies are the most effective tool in optimizing the design of these structures. Rubble mound coastal defense structures were constructed with assembly of different sizes of armor stones and front slopes. Rubble mound coastal defense structures were designed by Van der Meer

The increased use of sonar surveys for both industrial and leisure activities has motivated the research for cost effective, automated processed for seabed classification. Seabed classification is essential for many fields including dredging, environmental studies, fisheries research, pipeline and cable route surveys, marine archaeology and automated underwater vehicles. The advancement in both sonar technology and sonar data storage has led to large quantities of sonar data being collected per survey. The challenge, however, is to derive relevant features that can summarise these large amounts of data and provide discrimination between several seabed types present in each survey. The main aim of this work is to classify sidescan bathymetric datasets. However, in most sidescan bathymetric surveys, only a few ground-truthed areas (if any) are available. Since sidescan ‘ground-truthed’ areas were also provided for this work, they were used to test feature extraction, selection and classification algorithms. Backscattering amplitude, after using bathymetric data to correct for variations, did not provide enough discrimination between sediment classes in this work which lead to the investigation of other features. The variation of backscattering amplitude at different scales corresponds to variations in both micro bathymetry and large scale bathymetry. A method that can derive multiscale features from signals was needed, and the wavelet method proved to be an efficient method of doing so. Wavelets are used for feature extraction in 1D sidescan bathymetry survey data and both the feature selection and classification stages are automated. The method is tested on areas of known types and in general, the features show good correlation with sediment types in both types of survey. The main disadvantage of this method, however, is that signal futures are calculated per swathe (or received signal). Thus, sediment boundaries within the same swathe are not detected. To solve this problem, information present in consecutive pings of data can be used, leading to 2-D feature extraction. Several textural classification methods are investigated for the segmentation of sidescan sonar images. The method includes 2D wavelets and Gabor filters. Effects of filter orientation filter scale and window size are observed in both cases, and validated on given sonar images. For sidescan bathymetric datasets, a novel method of classification using both sidescan images and depth maps is investigated. Backscattering amplitude and bathymetry images are both used for feature extraction. Features include amplitude-dependent features, textural features and bathymetric variation features. The method makes use of grab samples available in given areas of the survey for training the classifiers. Alternatively, clustering techniques are used to group the data. The results of applying the method on sidescan bathymetric surveys correlate with the grab samples available as well as the user-classified areas. An automatic method for sidescan bathymetric classification offers a cost effective approach to classify large areas of seabed with a fewer number of grab samples. This work sheds light on areas of feature extraction, selection and classification of sonar data.

It is well known that, socioeconomic development in coastal regions is in many respects are more rapid than elsewhere. The rapid development has been the outcome of recognition of these regions as a means providing ideal conditions for relatively cheap transport, food and mineral resource, petroleum, natural gas, agricultural and industrial development, housing and recreation, etc. Therefore, coastal areas are under threat due to forcing function of human activities. A novel technique addressed scenic evaluation through application of fuzzy logic methodologies to values obtained from checklist that itemized 26 human and physical parameters rated on five-point attribute scale. The methodology enabled calculation of an Evaluation Index (D) which categorizes all sites and statistically best described attribute values in terms of weighted areas. The methodology developed for coastal scenic evaluation using Fuzzy Logic Approach (FLA) is a very useful tool in making future management plans for coastal areas by simulating different human usages. With regard to coastal zone management this technique is suitable for evaluating future potential changes especially with regard to influence of coastal structures on the coastal scenery. This work will hopefully be utilized by coastal mangers, planners, academics, governmental agencies, as to improve the especially human usage of the coastal areas also this work will be a tool for the preservation and conservation and the sustainable development of the coastal areas. For the pilot site, &Ccedil / irali, D values are calculated and corresponding classes are found for different attributes of parameters rising from the human usage.