The effect of non-cohesive sediment on wave-induced bottom boundary layers was examined experimentally. Fluid velocity and sediment concentration were measured simultaneously in a sheet regime generated in a u-shaped oscillating water tunnel. A major obstacle to the understanding of fluid-grain flow has been the absence of suitable measuring devices. Thus, previous experimental investigations have been concerned primarily with low sediment concentration flows. For this study, a probe was developed to measure the instantaneous variations in sediment concentration based on the electrical conductivity of the fluid-grain mixture. Unlike earlier concentration devices, this probe is non-intrusive and is capable of measuring a wide range of sediment concentrations; from close packing within the bed to low concentration suspended load. Horizontal fluid velocities were measured simultaneously using Laser Doppler Anemometry in backscatter mode. Height and time-dependent velocity and concentration profiles were obtained for differing wave and sediment conditions. Values of the shear stress calculated from the momentum integral were found to be an order of magnitude larger than in sediment-free flows. The variation in shear stress with distance from the bed is clearly dependent on the thickness of the movable bed and also on the sediment flow regime. As expected, the eddy viscosity varied significantly during the wave cycle. The time-mean eddy viscosity decreases with height above the movable bed and at large distances from the bed, fluctuates about the mean. The sediment concentration measurements provide a comprehensive data set for sediment transport in sheet flow and near sheet flow regimes. The sediment concentration was found to be time-dependent with the amplitude and form of the temporal variation dependent on distance from the bed, wave amplitude and velocity, and sediment characteristics. With increasing wave amplitude and velocity, the number of peaks in the concentration profile increased while the magnitude of the peaks decreased. Fluid velocity and sediment concentration measurements were used to calculate rates of sediment transport which were compared with predictions from existing models.

Dissertação(mestrado) - Universidade Federal do Rio Grande, Programa de Pós-Graduação em Engenharia Oceânica, Escola de Engenharia, 2008. / Submitted by Lilian M. Silva (lilianmadeirasilva@hotmail.com) on 2013-04-20T19:00:16Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Estudo da influência dos fatores climáticos e hidrológicos no ciclo morfodinâmico praial de um sangradouro intermitente, Praia do Cassino, Brasil..pdf: 3556854 bytes, checksum: 026ab90e4875dac2d9a2305985f758b0 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Bruna Vieira(bruninha_vieira@ibest.com.br) on 2013-06-08T22:43:22Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Estudo da influência dos fatores climáticos e hidrológicos no ciclo morfodinâmico praial de um sangradouro intermitente, Praia do Cassino, Brasil..pdf: 3556854 bytes, checksum: 026ab90e4875dac2d9a2305985f758b0 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2013-06-08T22:43:22Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Estudo da influência dos fatores climáticos e hidrológicos no ciclo morfodinâmico praial de um sangradouro intermitente, Praia do Cassino, Brasil..pdf: 3556854 bytes, checksum: 026ab90e4875dac2d9a2305985f758b0 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2008 / Os sangradouros são cursos d’água fundamentais para a drenagem da água acumulada na região de pós-dunas, abastecem a zona de espraiamento com sedimentos arenosos e são os maiores causadores de descontinuidades no cordão de dunas frontais ao longo da costa do Rio Grande do Sul. Neste trabalho foi eleito como objeto de estudo um sangradouro considerando principalmente aspectos logísticos. O elemento escolhido localiza-se na Praia da Querência, onze quilômetros ao sul da desembocadura da Lagoa dos Patos. Este trabalho consiste na determinação e quantificação dos processos associados ao ciclo morfodinâmico evolutivo, estudando o mecanismo responsável pela sua abertura e fechamento. A metodologia empregada envolveu a elaboração de poços de monitoramento e a instalação dos mesmos na área de estudo, medições de níveis do lençol freático, levantamentos topográficos periódicos, amostragem sedimentar de superfície e análise de dados meteorológicos. Os resultados obtidos consubstanciam a idéia original de que o processo evolutivo do sangradouro é controlado pelo balanço entre as precipitações pluviométricas e as taxas de evaporação. Medições efetuadas nos poços de monitoramento sugerem que os níveis do lençol freático na área de impacto do sangradouro variam principalmente de acordo com intensidade do fluxo em direção à costa, sendo que o lençol freático mostrou-se mais profundo quando o sangradouro esteve aberto e sofreu uma elevação de 30 a 40 centímetros quando a calha do sangradouro foi fechada por processos costeiros.Notou-se que lençol freático no campo de dunas apresenta comportamento mais estável do quena região da berma. Percebeu-se também a ocorrência de dois ciclos distintos no processo evolutivo, um de longo prazo associado à destruição do campo de dunas frontais e outro de curto prazo ligado ao surgimento e destruição de uma barra arenosa secundaria, localizada na berma, que tem como origem a interação entre os processos na zona de surfe e os processos hidrológicos e hidrogeológicos da região do pós-dunas. Apesar da ocorrência de transporte de sedimentos por arraste e em suspensão pela corrente na calha do sangradouro, parece não ser este o principal processo erosivo e sim as ações ligadas aos fenômenos ocorrentes na zona de surfe. / The washouts are water courses important for draining the accumulated water from backshore and supply the swash zone with sand transport, it’s responsible too by local destruction of dunes field along the southern coast of Brazil. For that work was chosen a washout considering his geographical localization and our disposal logistical facilities. In that case was chosen a washout located in the Querência beach, which is situated 11 km toward south from Patos Lagoon mouth. This work consists in determination and quantification of processes associated to the morphodynamic evolution cycle this water body, studying the mechanism which causes the opening and closing of washout. The methodology consists in building and installation of monitoring wells in the study area, measurements ofwater table level, periodic topographic surveys, surface sediment sampling and analysis of meteorological data. The obtained results suggest that evolutionary process of washout is controlled by the balance between rain and evaporation rates. The wellsmeasurement suggests that water table level changes with the intensity of underground flowtoward the swash zone. When the washout opens the water table down but when washout closes by coastal processes the level up to 40 cm. It was observed that water table under the dunes field show most stability than under the berm. It was observed also occurrence of two different cycles in washout evolutionary process, one of long-term associated to destruction of local dunes field and other of short-term controlled by formation and destruction of a sand bar, placed over berm zone, which is originated by the interaction between processes in the surf zone versus hydrological and hydrogeological processes in the backshore zone. Despite occurrence of sediment transport into the channel of washout, it doesn’t seem to be the main erosive process, the principal erosion seems to be strongly related to the phenomena which occur into the surf zone.

Cette thèse présente une simulation, en canal à houle, des processus naturels hydrodynamiques etde transport sédimentaire de la zone de déferlement bathymétrique. L’analyse spatio-temporelle dela structure moyenne et instantanée de l’écoulement repose sur un jeu de mesures hauterésolutions.On effectue une étude des processus de couche limite et de l’impact des processus desurface libre sur le fond sédimentaire.Un profil de plage en forme de terrasse est engendré par le déferlement de séries de vagues irrégulières(JONSWAP) sur un fond mobile constitué de sédiments de faible densité (_ _ 1.19). Dans cesconditions, la mesure acoustique (ADVP) de profils de vitesse, de concentration et de flux de sédimentsest synchronisée à des séquences d’images vidéo et à des mesures de hauteurs de vagues.Une analyse de l’évolution des quantités moyennes hydrodynamiques et de transport solide est réaliséedans la zone de déferlement. Une analyse à l’échelle intra-vague aborde la structure del’écoulement sous le déferlement de vagues irrégulières. Enfin, on s’attache à une comparaison de lacontrainte au fond sous une vague déferlée calculée par des modèles physiques, à celle obtenue parmesures directes. / This thesis presents a wave channel simulation of the hydrodynamic and sediment transportprocesses in the wave breaking region. The spatio-temporal analysis of the mean and instantaneousflow structure relies on a full set of high resolution data. The study focuses on processes related tothe wave boundary layer and to the impact of surface breaking on the mobile bed.A terraced beach profile is generated by the breaking of irregular wave sequences (JONSWAP) on amobile bed constituted of low density sediments (_ _ 1.19). In these conditions, the acoustic measurementof velocity profiles, concentration profiles and sediment flux profiles are synchronised withsequences of video images and wave heights. An analysis of the evolution of mean hydrodynamicand sediment transport quantities is undertaken across the entire wave breaking zone. An intra-waveanalysis on the flow structure below irregular breaking waves is carried out. Finally, bed shear stressbelow a breaking wave predicted by different physical models and direct measurements, are comparedand discussed.