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Identity and its different constructions - national, social and personal, for example - are increasingly recognised as fundamental to understanding current and historic cultures. The reflexive relationship of identity issues with sartorial expression is a key concept within dress, fashion and textile studies. This thesis contributes to that growing body of knowledge by developing an understanding of how specific eighteenth century Scotswomen and their families related to their garments, thus bringing together contemporary study methods and understandings of identity with historic manifestations. This study of identity is embedded within an object-study methodology, following investigative practice and cataloguing methods currently used within the international museums community. This assists the secondary purpose of the thesis, which is to highlight a breadth of largely unpublished main garment objects within Scottish public and private collections. The intimate study of these objects has revealed stories of how daily life interacted with personal taste and style, purchase methods, garment use and international markets for individuals connected to Scotland. This has contributed material understanding to wider academic research areas, most importantly the everyday lives of eighteenth century Scotswomen, issues of identity within Scotland, and how European fashion trends were adopted or adapted by individuals outside of the major fashion centres of London and Paris. Study of the garments has involved stylistic analysis of their textiles and of their construction, connecting them to other extant and depicted garments from British and international collections. Thus providing material evidence of international styles in the eighteenth century, and matching two items in a rare example of extant main garments evidencing duplication in the eighteenth century handmade clothing industry.

Background and rationale: Collecting is a basic human activity, a cultural phenomenon establishing cultural values, defining authenticity and creating new identities for collected objects and collectors. For more than a decade, I have studied cultural heritage collections from three key interwoven perspectives. These approaches are evident in the six publications selected for this submission: • Architectural and organisational perspective: at the Vatican Gallery (Innocenti 2001a), Uffizi (Innocenti 2003a) and Biblioteca Laurenziana (Innocenti 2002a) I investigated institutional collector and key stakeholder strategies for designing collection space and displays. I then applied this analysis to‘knowledge architecture’ for industrial design artefacts and processes (Innocenti 2004c). • Procedural and functional perspective: from Palladio drawings (Innocenti 2005a) to industrial design knowledge bases (Innocenti 2004a), I investigated how to digitize, archive, render and make accessible cultural heritage as an accurate iconic representation, interwoven with documentary and cultural contexts. The work further led me to study the authenticity of born-digital artworks (Innocenti 2012c). • Artefact perspective: I explored how artists and institutional collectors address the preservation of artworks, from the Renaissance desks of the Biblioteca Laurenziana (Innocenti 2002a) to digital artworks (Innocenti 2012c), and the historical and theoretical implications of their choices. In each of these areas, I contextualized the interrelations between cultural heritage discourse and the history of collecting cultural artefacts within given historical, social and cultural periods. My work began in Italy, where cultural heritage is deeply rooted and widespread, and moved on to encompass Europe and North America in tracing the evolution of cultural heritage collectors’ strategies. I adopted an interdisciplinary approach, engaging perspectives, methods and theoretical frameworks from art history, art theory, museography, museology, library and information science, information technology, social anthropology and engineering. Starting from this multi-focal vantage point my research has resulted in contributions to knowledge, methods and theory. These publications on one hand demonstrate the continuum of key issues in cultural heritage creation, preservation and access as manifested in the strategies of institutional collectors and artists. On the other hand, they highlight the new paradigms and transformations introduced by digital and communication technologies, the shaping of cultural heritage informatics to address these transformations and the theoretical and methodological implications underlying them. Through my scholarly research, I contributed to progressing the canonical historicisation of cultural heritage, museography and museology, and to exploring the new paradigms and transformations introduced by digital and communication technologies to the disruptive and exciting world of cultural heritage informatics. The portfolio: The portfolio is a selection from Perla Innocenti’s more than forty publications of research carried out since 2001 on cultural heritage and informatics with the Universitá degli Studi di Roma ‘La Sapienza’, Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa, Istituto Nazionale di Archeologia e Storia dell’Arte in Rome, Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna, Italian Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Fondazione Andrea Palladio, Politecnico di Milano and EU-funded projects SHAMAN and MeLa. Six scientific publications are presented: two journal articles, a scholarly treatise, a published conference paper, key chapters from a monograph and one book chapter from an edited volume. The works have two key themes relevant to the critical analysis and understanding of heritage institutions’ evolution up to the digital age. The themes illustrate the contribution each publication has made to the literature and explain the relationship between the works submitted, including developments which have occurred between one piece and another. Theme I: Evolution of museography, museology and heritage studies Three publications are presented under this theme, each of these presenting the critical analysis of cultural heritage institutions and their artefacts within the historical evolution of museums and libraries. Publication I presents the critical analysis of the museographic principles applied by Luca Beltrami to the design of the Vatican Gallery, investigated and contextualised within its museographical and cultural history (Innocenti 2001a). Publication II presents the critical analysis and findings of the museological and museographical principles applied by Corrado Ricci to the Uffizi Gallery in the 19th Century, compared with the contemporary principles in the Uffizi applied by the former Superintendent and Italian Ministry Antonio Paolucci (Innocenti 2003a). Publication III presents the analysis and original findings of Michelangelo’s ergonomic design of the Biblioteca Laurenziana fittings, within the historical evolution of libraries (Innocenti 2002a). Theme II: Creating, managing, disseminating and preserving digital cultural heritage The publications presented in this theme relate to methodologies and processes characterising diverse typologies of analogue and digital cultural heritage and the emerging field of cultural informatics. Publication IV presents the novel methodological approach defined and applied within a relevant digitization project of Andrea Palladio manuscripts and maps (Innocenti 2005a). Publication V presents the outcomes of my investigation defining and implementing an online knowledge-based system supporting research and teaching of industrial design, which is formally considered part of Italian cultural heritage (Innocenti 2004a). Publication VI discusses the repositioning of traditional conservation concepts of historicity, authenticity and versioning in relation to born-digital artworks, based on findings from my research on preservation of computer-based artefacts by public collectors (Innocenti 2012a).

The research presented aimed to investigate potential of subcritical fluid technology to effect Cl- release and transform compounds of copper alloy artefacts of cultural significance. The work intended to determine the most effective pH, temperature, and time combination subcritical treatment variables to: 1. transform or solvate insoluble or sparingly soluble copper compounds containing Cl - CuCl and Cu2(OH)3Cl (atacamite and clinoatacamite); 2. examine impact on typical patina compounds Cu2O and ‎Cu2CO3(OH)2 and to establish optimal conditions for their retention throughout treatment. Additionally, the research expected to offer guidance on the values of the operational parameters to use when applying subcritical treatment to archaeological copper alloy objects. The series of experiments yielded preliminary results on solvation, extraction, chemical transformation, and physical modification of the predominant corrosion products found on copper alloy artefacts. Experiments were completed using analogue pressed pellets of corrosion products, naturally corroded copper coupons and archaeological artefacts, with specific focus on corrosion profiles, metallography and microstructure. The results of extraction show significant amounts of Cl- are removed and thus the reactivity of objects is reduced. While this study conclusively demonstrated subcritical treatment is capable of both removal and transformation of Cl-bearing compounds commonly present in copper alloy objects, it cannot be recommended for treating archaeological objects based on these results alone. Aesthetic and physical changes are unpredictable and may be unacceptable. Accepting these changes cannot directly be balanced against the proven effectiveness of subcritical treatment for removing Cl, nor its rapid treatment time.

For this thesis the animal bones collected from the archaeological excavations at the ancient site of Burgaz have been analyzed for the study of animal exploitation, human diet, social differentiation and the environment of Burgaz and Dat&ccedil / a during the Classical Period. Comparison of the results with evidence from other sites to determine the extent to which there might have been local trends in animal husbandry. Because this kind of a research is not common among archaeologists specialising in the classical period the methodology and each process of the laboratory work has been set out. Burgaz/Dat&ccedil / a is a coastal settlement but sea products do not have an important place in the human diet of the Dat&ccedil / a Burgaz inhabitants. After analysis of the Burgaz bones it was determined that domestic cattle, sheep/goat, pig, horse, donkey and dog were present alongside wild goat, wild pig, fallow deer, red deer, roe deer, badger and birds as well as fish and shellfish from the sea. More than half of the bones that were identified, 220 of 430, come from floor filling levels beneath floors. It was understood that these bones were in filling materials that were brought from dump site(s). Among these bones were some worked cattle bones which have close parallels with Roman period finds at Sagalassos. Because of most of identified bones come from filling levels beneath floors it was not possible to reach definite conclusions about social hierarchy at ancient Burgaz. Sheep/goat and cattle were kept for their secondary products, such as milk, wool and power. They were slaughtered in their old age by experienced people and played an important place in diet of the Burgaz inhabitants. Pigs, on the other hand, were slaughtered when young. From the wild species found in the Classical and Hellenistic Periods it can be said that the Dat&ccedil / a environment was diverse enough to accommodate a range of wild animals whose habitat indicates the existence of forested areas (with large leafed and coniferous trees) as well as of meadows and grasslands.

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As the first major study of the portrait artist Bernard Fleetwood-Walker (1893-1965), this thesis locates the artist in his social, political and economic context, arguing that his portraiture can be seen as an exemplar of modernity. The portraits are shown to be responses to modern life, revealed not in formally avant-garde depictions, but in the subject-matter. Industrial growth, the increasing population, expanding suburbs, and a renewed interest in the outdoor life and popular entertainment are reflected in Fleetwood-Walker’s artistic output. The role played by exhibition culture in the creation of the portraits is analysed: developing retail theory affected gallery design and exhibition layout and in turn impacted on the size, subject matter and style of Fleetwood-Walker’s portraits. Emerging, and soon dominant, tabloid newspapers shaped content and language to attract readers, influencing the articulation of the reception of the artist’s work. This thesis also makes a contribution to the regional perspective, demonstrating the temporary co-existence of multiple, heterogeneous, modern art worlds. Throughout the thesis the relevance of economic factors is emphasised, reappraising the Marxist theory of modern art and concluding that a more complex economic description is required to provide a sensitive and insightful analysis of art history.

The history of collection at the National Gallery of Canada, the Art Gallery of Ontario and the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, illustrates concepts of race in the development of museums in Canada from before Confederation to today. Located at intersections of Art History, Museology, Postcolonial Studies and Native Studies, this thesis uses discourse theory to trouble definitions of nation and problematize them as inherently racial constructs wherein 'Canadianness' is institutionalized as a dominant white, Euro-Canadian discourse that mediates belonging. The recent reinstallations of the permanent Canadian historical art galleries at the National Gallery of Canada, the Art Gallery of Ontario and the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts are significant in their illustration of contemporary colonial collection practices. The effectiveness of each installation is discussed in relation to the demands and resistances raised by Indigenous and non-Native artists and cultural professionals over the last 40 years, against racist treatment of Indigenous arts.

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Situé au cœur du Hainaut, le musée de Mariemont doit son existence à la volonté de Raoul Warocqué, riche industriel, homme politique et philanthrope qui lègue en 1917 son château et les collections qu’il renferme à l’État belge. Formé ainsi d’un contenant et d’un contenu, le musée de Mariemont incarne bien, du moins jusqu’à l’incendie du château en 1960, ce qu’Anne-Doris Meyer a appelé les « musées de collectionneurs », dont bon nombre d’exemples voient le jour à la charnière des 19e et 20e siècles, en Belgique comme à l’étranger.<p>De l’histoire du musée de Mariemont, on ne retient généralement que le geste qui lui a donné naissance. Aucune étude ne s’était penchée jusqu’ici sur ce qui se passe après le décès de Raoul Warocqué. En comblant cette lacune, cette thèse offre l’opportunité d’examiner comment une collection privée se mue en musée public, comment les pouvoirs publics veillent à concilier le souhait du bienfaiteur et les missions du musée, quelles difficultés ils ont rencontrées dans la gestion de ce patrimoine d’origine privée et quelles solutions ils y ont apportées. <p> / Doctorat en Histoire, art et archéologie / info:eu-repo/semantics/nonPublished