Thesis (Ph. D.)--Friedrich-Alexanders-Universität Erlangen, 1912.

The main objective of the present study was to determine the relative role and importance of worsted suiting fabric fibre blend vis-à-vis fabric structural parameters, on the comfort related properties of 12 clothing ensembles, each comprising a different man’s suit, but the same wool/nylon underwear and cotton shirt. To achieve the objective, the comfort related properties, namely thermal resistance (Rt) and water vapour resistance (Ret) and water vapour permeability index (Im), of the clothing ensembles, as determined by means of WalterTM, a thermal sweating fabric manikin, were subjected to multi-linear and multi-quadratic analysis, as dependent variables, with the various suiting fabric parameters, namely weight, thickness, density, porosity, air permeability and wool content, as independent variables. It was found that the multi-quadratic regression analysis was able to best explain the observed differences in the clothing ensemble comfort related properties, in terms of the differences in suiting fabric properties. The regression analyses were used to isolate and quantify the effects of the various fabric and fibre content variables on the above mentioned comfort related properties of the various clothing ensembles. This study indicated that the suiting fabric structural properties (notably air permeability), had a more significant influence than either fibre blend or suiting fabric, as measured on WalterTM, a thermal sweating fabric manikin.

The suitability of powdered starch with borax or glycerine accessories for dark cottons of three different colors and weights and with selected construction gestures was ascertained. Selected colors, weights, and construction features were evaluated by analysis of variance for their effect on the suitability of the starch and its additive. The scores recorded by a panel of competent judges supplied data on the change in color, luster, and hand of the starched fabric. The color was statistically significant in only half of the instances for which it was analyzed. The weight of the fabric was significant for one-fourth of the starched samples. Construction influenced starching only when combined with another factor, and then is only one case of a possible six. Scores indicated starching caused from moderate to considerable change for the majority of the samples. The glycerine and starch treatment was more affective than the starch and borax combination. / M.S.

M.S.

The effects of fiber reactive and direct dyes on certain physical properties (tenacity, elongation, and initial modulus) of cotton fibers were investigated. Raw cotton fiber and raw yarn spun from the same batch of fiber were obtained. Fiber and yarn were processed by scouring, bleaching, and dyeing with both dyes, using an Ahiba Texomat Dyeing Apparatus, and the appropriate chemical systems. Fibers from treated fiber and fibers removed from treated yarns were tested after each treatment step, using an Instron Tensile Tester. The Wilks multivariate F test was used to determine whether or not significant differences existed between sequential treatments, and between fibers treated as fiber or as yarn. When significant differences were indicated, univariate analysis of variance was computed to identify the property(s) responsible. The results of this study indicated that the physical properties of both fiber reactive dyed and direct dyed fibers were not significantly different from each other or from the bleached fiber from which they were dyed. The properties of bleached (and dyed) fibers were significantly different (lower tenacity and elongation, higher initial modulus) from untreated or scoured fibers, indicating that the bleaching step was responsible for most of the changes noted. The properties of fibers treated as fiber were generally different (lower tenacity, higher elongation, lower initial modulus) than those of fibers removed from yarn. / M.S.

The catalyst for the urban growth of Skipton during the formative period of the modern town between 1865 and 1914 was indigenous investment and organisational change in cotton textiles in the aftermath of the Cotton Famine. Railway investment also played an important, although lesser part. The process was facilitated notably by the relaxation of policy on land tenure by the principal landowner and by the work of a well managed local authority. The resulting net in-migration, along with the internal redistribution of population necessitated by the extension of commercial and other services in the town centre, was accommodated by house building in clusters which were either aligned with or removed from the main factory sites. This gave rise to a distinctive pattern of social and spatial segregation, the distribution of which was governed principally by the need for factories to have access to water supplies for steam raising and condensing. Thus the canal corridor beyond the existing built-up area was subject to textile colonisation while wholly residential development was more closely associated with existing high status housing elsewhere. The study considers the processes involved in creating this pattern of development with particular reference to the values and activities of the principal decision-makers. It also discusses the resultant shift in power and influence from the principal landowner to the local authority and to industrial and commercial interests which increasingly were based outside the town. Arising from this a model of urban growth is proposed and tested against neighbouring small textile towns.

Thesis (M.S.)--University of Central Florida, 2008. / Adviser: Michael Sigman. Includes bibliographical references (p. 143-147).

Total Pages: 172 Number of Pages: 151 Missing Page: 146 Extra Pages: 131a and Data Source / The study presents models of portfolio behaviour for four industries, viz., cotton textiles, sugar, transport equipment and nonelectrical machinery. The first two industries are consumer goods industries and produce to stock. The other two are capital goods industries and produce to order. The study uses econometric techniques to estimate influence of variables explaining changes in capital stock, inventories, accounts receivable, cash balances and government bonds and also the composition of liabilities (debt and equity). / Thesis / Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)

The catalyst for the urban growth of Skipton during the formative period of the modern town between 1865 and 1914 was indigenous investment and organisational change in cotton textiles in the aftermath of the Cotton Famine. Railway investment also played an important, although lesser part. The process was facilitated notably by the relaxation of policy on land tenure by the principal landowner and by the work of a well managed local authority. The resulting net in-migration, along with the internal redistribution of population necessitated by the extension of commercial and other services in the town centre, was accommodated by house building in clusters which were either aligned with or removed from the main factory sites. This gave rise to a distinctive pattern of social and spatial segregation, the distribution of which was governed principally by the need for factories to have access to water supplies for steam raising and condensing. Thus the canal corridor beyond the existing built-up area was subject to textile colonisation while wholly residential development was more closely associated with existing high status housing elsewhere. The study considers the processes involved in creating this pattern of development with particular reference to the values and activities of the principal decision-makers. It also discusses the resultant shift in power and influence from the principal landowner to the local authority and to industrial and commercial interests which increasingly were based outside the town. Arising from this a model of urban growth is proposed and tested against neighbouring small textile towns.