Este trabalho envolve dois diferentes aspectos da estimação de espectros direcionais de onda a partir de movimentos de 1a ordem da embarcação. Sendo a estimação do espectro de ondas feita por meio de um método Bayesiano, existe a necessidade da calibração dos hiperparâmetros derivados da modelagem Bayesiana. O primeiro assunto abordado é a determinação de uma metodologia de calibração dos hiperparâmetros necessários à estimação do espectro direcional de ondas. Desenvolve-se ao longo deste uma primeira análise de um método aplicável a qualquer embarcação do tipo FPSO para a determinação a priori de valores de dois hiperparâmetros de controle da suavização da estimativa. Obtém-se resultados indicativos de que é possível definir valores destes hiperparâmetros dependentes de quantidades observáveis como calado da embarcação e período das ondas, de modo que os erros de estimação ainda se mantém muito próximos aos encontrados por valores ótimos dos hiperparâmetros. Isto leva à conclusão de que na abordagem atual, com valores fixos a cada calado, erros excessivos e desnecessários podem ocorrer no processo de estimação. O segundo tema trata da estimação paramétrica de espectros, utilizando modelos paramétricos de descrição de espectros como forma de obtenção de estatísticas de mar. Abordam-se também os assuntos de mares cruzados, donde se faz necessária a identificação da bimodalidade dos espectros para a estimação correta das estatísticas de mar. / In this work, two differents aspects of directional wave spectra estimation from 1st order ship motions are presented. As the estimation of wave spectrum is made by means of a Bayesian method, it is necessary to calibrate the hyperparameters derived from Bayesian modeling. The first addressed subject is the determination of a calibration methodology of the hyperparameters needed for the directional wave spectrum estimation. It is developed through this work a first analysis of an applicable method to any vessel of FPSO type for the prior determination of values for this two hyperparameters depending on observable quantities, such as draft of the vessel and wave period, in such a way that the estimation errors are still very close to those found by optimum values of the hyperparameters. This leads to the conclusion that in the current approach excessive and unnecessary errors can occur on the estimation process. The second subject addresses the parametric estimation of spectra, using parametric models of spectrum description to acquire the sea statistics. For this purpose, it became necessary the study of crossed-sea states, which was employed in the bimodal spectrum identification for the correct estimation of sea statistics.

Wave tank tests facilitate the understanding of how complex sea conditions influence the dynamics of man-made structures. If a potential deployment location is known, site data can be used to improve the relevance and realism of the test conditions, thus helping de-risk device development. Generally this data is difficult to obtain and even if available is used simplistically due to established practices and limitations of test facilities. In this work four years of buoy data from the European Marine Energy Centre is characterised and simulated at the FloWave Ocean Energy Research Facility; a circular combined wave-current test tank. Particular emphasis is placed on the characterisation and validation processes, aiming to preserve spectral and directional complexity of the site, whilst proving that the defined representative conditions can be effectively created. When creating representative site-specific sea states, particular focus is given to the application of clustering algorithms, which enable the entire spectral (frequency or directional) form to be considered in the characterisation process. This enables the true complex nature of the site to be considered in the data reduction process. Prior to generating and measuring the resulting sea states, issues with scaling are explored, the facility itself is characterised, and emphasis is placed on developing measurement strategies for the validation of directional spectra. Wave gauge arrays are designed and used to characterise various elements of the FloWave tank, including reflections, spatio-temporal variability and wave shape. A new method for directional spectrum reconstruction (SPAIR) is also developed, enabling more effective measurement and validation of the resulting directional sea states. Through comparison with other characterisation methods, inherent method-induced trade-offs are understood, and it is found that there is no absolute favourable approach, necessitating an application specific procedure. Despite this, a useful set of 'generic' sea states are created for the simulation of both production and extreme conditions. For sea state measurement, the SPAIR method is proven to be significantly more effective than current approaches, reducing errors and introducing additional capability. This method is used in combination with a directional wave gauge array to effectively measure, correct, and validate the resulting directional wave conditions. It is also demonstrated that site-specific wave-current scenarios can be effectively re-created, thus demonstrating that truly complex ocean conditions can be simulated at FloWave. This ability, along with the considered characterisation approach used, means that representative site-specific sea states can be simulated with confidence, increasing the realism of the test environment and helping de-risk device development.

The inner continental shelf off the western half of the barrier island Fire Island, NY, is characterized by a series of obliquely oriented shoreface-connected ridges. The long-term historic shoreline record shows persistent undulations in shoreline shape at an alongshore scale similar to the alongshore scale of the ridges. This suggests that the ridges affect the wave transformation, alongshore sediment transport and corresponding shoreline change. These processes are investigated by utilizing the SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) model, forced with realistic wave parameters, on a simplified, synthetic bathymetry replicating the scales of the shoreface-connected ridges. Results indicate that the relative magnitude of alongshore variations of modeled waves, alongshore transport, and the corresponding shoreline change are highly correlated with the relative orientation of the incoming waves to the ridges. Alongshore variations in both wave height and direction along the breaker line are much stronger when the predominant wave direction is along the main axis of the ridges rather than perpendicular to the ridge crests. This pattern of wave height variation is further explained by evaluating the directional energy spectrum and using a reverse ray-tracing technique. The gradients of the alongshore sediment transport, which lead to shoreline change, also appear to be stronger for waves with an angle of incidence similar to the ridge orientation. These results help explain the relationship between the oblique shoreface-connected ridges and the corresponding shoreline changes and shed light on the connection between the inner-shelf ridges and persistent shoreline undulations for the Western portion of Fire Island.

Este trabalho envolve dois diferentes aspectos da estimação de espectros direcionais de onda a partir de movimentos de 1a ordem da embarcação. Sendo a estimação do espectro de ondas feita por meio de um método Bayesiano, existe a necessidade da calibração dos hiperparâmetros derivados da modelagem Bayesiana. O primeiro assunto abordado é a determinação de uma metodologia de calibração dos hiperparâmetros necessários à estimação do espectro direcional de ondas. Desenvolve-se ao longo deste uma primeira análise de um método aplicável a qualquer embarcação do tipo FPSO para a determinação a priori de valores de dois hiperparâmetros de controle da suavização da estimativa. Obtém-se resultados indicativos de que é possível definir valores destes hiperparâmetros dependentes de quantidades observáveis como calado da embarcação e período das ondas, de modo que os erros de estimação ainda se mantém muito próximos aos encontrados por valores ótimos dos hiperparâmetros. Isto leva à conclusão de que na abordagem atual, com valores fixos a cada calado, erros excessivos e desnecessários podem ocorrer no processo de estimação. O segundo tema trata da estimação paramétrica de espectros, utilizando modelos paramétricos de descrição de espectros como forma de obtenção de estatísticas de mar. Abordam-se também os assuntos de mares cruzados, donde se faz necessária a identificação da bimodalidade dos espectros para a estimação correta das estatísticas de mar. / In this work, two differents aspects of directional wave spectra estimation from 1st order ship motions are presented. As the estimation of wave spectrum is made by means of a Bayesian method, it is necessary to calibrate the hyperparameters derived from Bayesian modeling. The first addressed subject is the determination of a calibration methodology of the hyperparameters needed for the directional wave spectrum estimation. It is developed through this work a first analysis of an applicable method to any vessel of FPSO type for the prior determination of values for this two hyperparameters depending on observable quantities, such as draft of the vessel and wave period, in such a way that the estimation errors are still very close to those found by optimum values of the hyperparameters. This leads to the conclusion that in the current approach excessive and unnecessary errors can occur on the estimation process. The second subject addresses the parametric estimation of spectra, using parametric models of spectrum description to acquire the sea statistics. For this purpose, it became necessary the study of crossed-sea states, which was employed in the bimodal spectrum identification for the correct estimation of sea statistics.

The exploration of oil and natural gas in offshore fields has motivated advanced researches about the environmental forces in the oceans. The waves, in particular, have been measured using different techniques, as meteorological buoys, with recent works proposing motion-based estimations procedures using the vessel, or a floating facility, in analogy with the buoys, as a wave sensor. Even though this approach has a number of benefits, the vessels, as dynamic systems, have a cut-off frequency that degrades the estimation of high-frequency waves, which are important for non-linear drift effects predictions. In order to solve this problem, it is proposed the incorporation of wave-probes - gauges used to measure the wave elevation in a point - installed on the hull of the vessel, based on literature suggestions and simple analytical arguments, using the Bayesian statistics as the standing point of a more complete estimation algorithm. In order to incorporate the measurements of the wave-probes, an extended linear model is proposed, showing that only corrections for the vertical motions of the vessel are necessary. The ideal installation positions of the wave-probes are defined using as base the utility Bayesian optimal design of experiments, which is shown to guarantee an upper bound for other optimal criteria, with the \'Elbow Criterion\" defining the optimal number of sensors to be employed. Based on the previous solutions, other proposals are made: a heuristic to solve the optimal sensor placement problem and an optimal prior exploring the probabilistic nature of the algorithm. Finally, all the proposals are tested numerically and experimentally, with a vessel model in a towing tank, concluding that the addition of the wave-probes is able to improve not only the estimation of high-frequency waves, but also the estimation over a large range of frequencies. For unimodal seas with intermediate draft, the addition of just one wave-probe reaches approximately a 37%-55% improvement in the energy parameter estimations - HS and TP; the addition of two or more probes reaches approximately a 62%-65% improvement in the same parameters estimations; the addition of four probes achieved the best cost benefit for mean direction estimation; and the addition of six probes is shown to be the recommendation for the best high-order directional estimation in the entire range of the spectrum. / A prospecção de óleo e gás natural em campos offshore tem motivado pesquisas avançadas sobre as forças ambientais em oceanos. As ondas, em particular, têm sido medidas através de diferentes técnicas, como boias meteorológicas, com trabalhos recentes propondo técnicas baseadas em movimento para que os navios, em analogia com as boias, possam ser usados como sensores de onda. Apesar desse método ter uma série de vantagens, os navios, como sistemas dinâmicos, têm uma frequência de corte que dificulta a estimação de ondas de altas frequências, que são importantes para a previsão de efeitos de deriva não-lineares. Para resolver esse problema, sugere-se a adição de wave-probes instalados no costado da embarcação, usando como justificativas sugestões da literatura e simples argumentos analíticos, com estatística Bayesiana como fundamentação para um algoritmo de estimação mais completo. Para que as medidas dos wave-probes possam ser incorporadas, um modelo linear estendido é proposto, mostrando que apenas correções para os movimentos verticais do navio são necessárias. A posição ideal de instalação dos wave-probes é definida usando como base o projeto ótimo de experimentos Bayesianos por utilidade, mostrando que o mesmo garante o limite superior de outros critérios de optimalidade, com o \"critério cotovelo\" definindo o número ótimo de sensores a serem usados. Com base nas soluções anteriores, outras propostas são feitas: uma heurística para resolver o problema de posicionamento ótimo dos sensores e uma priori ótima, explorando a natureza probabilística do algoritmo. Ao final, todas as propostas são testadas numericamente e experimentalmente, utilizando um modelo em escala em um tanque de provas, concluindo que a adição de wave-probes é capaz de melhorar não só a estimação de ondas em alta-frequência, mas também a estimação em uma ampla gama de frequências. Para mares unimodais, com calado intermediário, a adição de apenas um sensor alcançou uma melhoria de aproximadamente 37-55% na estimação dos parâmetros relacionados à energia - HS e TP; a adição de dois ou mais sensores alcançou melhorias de 62-65% na estimação de tais parâmetros; a adição de quatro sensores alcançou o melhor custo benefício para estimação da direção média; e a adição de seis sensores se mostrou ideal para estimação de ordem elevada do espectro direcional de energia.

This diploma thesis deals with the measurement of wind oscillation waves on reservoirs, especially with regard to the determination of wave properties with a focus on the spectral density. The thesis presents the basics of the theory of creation and propagation of wind oscillation waves, the recherche of measuring devices and a description of the pilot measurement with the processing of measured data in the MATLAB environment using the software tool WAFO. Attached to the CD are sample scripts for data processing from the resistance sensor.

The aim of this thesis is to process data on wave event measurement on hulín lagoon and their evaluation. The data is processed in the MATLAB environment, thanks to which basic parameters such as wave heights and lengths, period and spectrum shape can be evaluated.

No description available.