M.Tech. (Fashion) / Advanced studies in fashion design in South Africa have attracted little interest. Master’s studies are limited and doctoral studies are almost non-existent. This situation has resulted in the academic vulnerability of the discipline as a creative and commercial practice. In order to promote and expand research activities and advanced studies within fashion design at the University of Johannesburg, this study contends that it is necessary to develop a systematic understanding of the theoretical and practicing manifestations of fashion design in relation to the nature and process of design and fashion systems. In order to develop a deeper understanding of the interconnection between theory and practice, this study adopts a thematic style and a qualitative methodological approach to the examination of fashion design from the perspectives of history, theory and practice. The study synthesises key ideas from these areas and applies relevant frameworks to review the South African fashion system and to determine the theoretical orientation of selected advanced studies and research activities pursued over the last decade. The study proposes that considerations for the theoretical grounding of advanced studies in fashion design that could be taken into account include the need to: encourage an approach that accommodates the broader theoretical and practical dimensions of fashion design when engaging in advanced studies and research activities; view fashion design within the constellation of specialist design practices integral to ideas of a unitary discipline which could underpin and enrich advanced studies; adopt forward-oriented theoretical foundations for research and advanced studies which would ensure greater and more meaningful connections to practice; develop third- and fourth-order design theory and thinking in advanced studies in any discipline of design; take cognisance of developments in design theory concerning the nature and context of design problems and ensure an understanding of fashion systems and the multiple positioning of fashion designers within such systems.