Ten years ago, the only contenders for the role of setting the fashion media agenda were mainstream fashion media magazines such as Vogue. With the evolution of blogging and the popularity of blog sites associated with magazine websites, a new contender was born: the fashion-themed blog. Now mainstream fashion media outlets and fashion bloggers sit side-by-side in the front row at designer fashion shows covering fashion news and trends. This study focused on ten elite fashion-themed blogs (fashion blogs) reporting on women’s fashion and ten mainstream fashion media websites during the summer 2016 fashion season looking retrospectively at the fashion forecast from October 2015 New York Fashion Week. The study examined how media outlets respond to fashion blogs and whether the blogs were used as sources by mainstream fashion media or vice a versa. This study has filled a research gap by conducting the first analysis examining fashion blogs through the lens of agenda setting. This research uncovered a media landscape in transition with fashion bloggers and mainstream fashion media communicating in a new and different way. Communicating fashion news is no longer a one-way street controlled by mainstream fashion media magazines. Instead it is a two-way street where each outlet uses the other and neither plays the role of lead agenda setter. This new synergy suggests the acceptance of fashion blogs as credible sources for fashion news and potential agenda setters for the fashion community. The relationship between bloggers and mainstream fashion media also creates excitement regarding trends because fashion bloggers have the ability to instantly comment and generate buzz on a trend when the mainstream fashion media are reporting on other issues or waiting for their magazines to be published. Out of the five trends studied, denim was the leading trend with 44 percent of the posts or articles discussing denim. With every trend, bloggers were present in the five earliest published posts or articles and continued to post on the trends throughout the study period. Style.com dominated the mainstream fashion media landscape, with 25 published articles. For fashion bloggers, Gal Meets Glam and Atlantic Pacific tied with 19 blog posts each. Over 57.6 percent of the total blog posts and blog articles linked to fashion designer websites where readers could purchase the trend being discussed. Fashion bloggers did not quote sources in their posts; 74 blog posts and articles recognized no sources at all. Understanding the new relationship between fashion bloggers and fashion magazine websites will help guide future reporters of fashion and fashion trends.

World as known in the 21st century is influenced by modern technologies, social sites are counted as one of them. If a fashion company wants to succeed in the globalized world, in which thanks to the Internet everything is affordable, this company has to build a positive relationship with its customers. One way how to do it is using correct marketing strategies and tools. This can be done in cooperation with fashion bloggers. They are building a big influence on their social sites profiles, reaching millions of followers from all over the world. This diploma thesis conducts a survey on this topic while describing one of each tool of fashion blogs and also principles of the fashion industry. Later on these findings are deepen by studying how the best international and Czech fashion blogs work in the reality. The end also covers a different point of view - experiences of a fashion company.

Cette recherche menée en anthropologie, questionne le monde global au travers de l'étude des blogs de mode issus de Paris, New York et Tokyo.En tant que support de l’Internet qui permet de se raconter au travers de la mode, le blog de mode est à la fois expression personnelle et partage à l’autre, il donne ainsi à voir la construction d’une image de soi sous-tendue par des processus mimétique et de distinction. L’établissement du soi au travers du blog de mode est une porte d’entrée privilégiée pour pouvoir étudier au travers de celui-ci et à partir des motivations à pratiquer le blog, le rapport qu’entretient une bloggeuse à elle-même mais aussi aux autres. La compréhension de la pratique du blog de mode par les bloggeuses est le premier axe de cette recherche.Le blog de mode est aussi des images. Des images spécifiques dont les mécanismes s’établissent au travers de l’Internet, des images dites, dans cette recherche, bloggées. Celles- ci posent le décor au blog mais représentent surtout la matérialisation d’un transfert d’une expérience faite de la mode préalablement vécue dans la ville de Paris, New York ou Tokyo, à une expérience de la mode enrichie, prolongée et vécue autrement sur le blog de mode. Le constat de la reconfiguration de cette expérience cristallisée dans les images bloggées, impose comme second axe de recherche à cette thèse, de comprendre la possibilité du passage de la ville au blog, et la particpation de ces deux dimensions à un paysage global. Le paysage ingoldien dans sa réalité spatiale, matérielle et temporelle, permet alors d’appréhender un processus d’incorporation du paysage de la ville à celui du blog et permet de comprendre la constitution de l’un par l’autre, dans le partage d’un réel commun.Le blog de mode enfin, porte en lui des éléments communicationnels. Dans le contexte de l’Internet, ces éléments ont la particularité de se situer dans une logique majoritairement interactionnelle. Au travers de mécanismes mettant en jeu des flux et reflux s’établissant entre les trois villes de l’étude, il est alors nécessaire de comprendre la circulation des images sur ces supports, autant au travers des actions menées par les bloggeuses que par les structures et fonctionnalités qui portent et encadrent cette action. Au travers d’une approche compréhensive du blog de mode et des mécanismes de circulation, il est alors possible d’envisager sa participation à une médiation transculturelle et plus généralement de formation d’un lien social.Tout au long de cette approche compréhensive du blog de mode, cette recherche établie sur quatre ans vise à faire ressortir des éléments d’actualisation dans la pratique du blog et dans ce qui le compose (bloggeuse, paysage, circulation). C’est sur le constat à la fois des actualisations spécifiques du blog de mode et de sa participation à un monde global dans lequel il s’insère et auquel il prend activement part, que cette recherche permet in fine de dégager plus largement les particularismes naissants d'un monde reconfiguré, qui se recompose et repense son existence à chaque instant.En prenant le blog de mode pour objet de recherche et s’inscrivant en anthropologie, cette thèse questionne en arrière plan, l’absence d’une anthropologie de la mode comme champ de recherche établi et spécifiquement nommé. Une réflexion est ainsi menée sur la nécessité d’emprunt à des champs multiples de l’anthropologie et à d’autres disciplines pour questionner l’objet mode, et laisse à penser une anthropologie de la mode comme étant encore une anthropologie sans nom. / This research conducted in anthropology, questions the global world through the study of fashion blogs from Paris, New York and Tokyo. As a medium of the Internet that allows you to tell yourself through fashion, the fashion blog is both personal expression and sharing with the other, it gives to see the construction of a self-image under extended by mimetic and distinguishing processes. The establishment of the self through the fashion blog is a privileged entry point to study through it and from the motivations to practice the blog, the relationship that a blogger maintains to itself but also to others. The bloggers' understanding of blogging is the primary focus of this research. The fashion blog is also pictures. Specific images whose mechanisms are established through the Internet, images said in this research as "blogged". These set the scene for the blog but mostly represent the materialization of a transfer of an experience made of fashion previously experienced in the city of Paris, New York or Tokyo, an experience of fashion then enriched, extended and lived otherwise on the fashion blog. The observation of the reconfiguration of this experience crystallized in the images blogged, imposes as a second line of research to this thesis, to understand the possibility of the passage of the city to the blog, and the participation of these two dimensions in a global landscape. The Ingoldean landscape in its spatial reality, material and temporal, allows then to apprehend a process of incorporation of the landscape of the city to that of the blog and allows to understand the constitution of one by the other, in the sharing of a common real. Finally, the fashion blog carries with it communication elements. In the context of the Internet, these elements have the particularity of being situated in a logic that is mainly interactional. Through mechanisms involving ebb and flow between the three cities of the study, it is necessary to understand the circulation of images on these media, as much through the actions of bloggers as by the structures and features that carry and frame this action. Through a comprehensive approach of the fashion blog and circulation mechanisms, it is then possible to consider its participation in a transcultural mediation and more generally the formation of a social link. Throughout this comprehensive approach of the fashion blog, this research established over four years aims to bring out elements of actualization in the practice of the blog and in what composes it (blogger, landscape, circulation). It is on the observation of both the specific updates of the fashion blog and its participation in a global world in which it is inserted and in which it takes an active part, that this research ultimately makes it possible to identify more widely the emerging particularities of a reconfigured world, which recomposes itself and rethinks its existence at every moment. Taking the fashion blog as a research subject and registering in anthropology, this thesis questions in the background, the absence of an anthropology of fashion as an established and specifically named field of research. A reflection is thus conducted on the necessity of borrowing from multiple fields of anthropology and other disciplines to question the fashion object, and suggests an anthropology of fashion as still being a nameless anthropology.

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in english: Richterová, L. How to re-design the Teacher and the Student (Contemporary Fashion Design into Art Education) [Diploma thesis] Prague 2015 - Charles University, Faculty of Educatin, Department of Art Education, 73 pages. (Attachements: 13 files) The diploma thesis bears character of a reflective study, based on the principles of participative research, research by A/R/Tography method and pedagogical action research according to the methodology of Marie Fulková. With respect to the results of a previous bachelor thesis, the author turns attention to the subject of re-design as a possible solution to diverse intricacies occuring in school environment. The author also looks critically at contemporary DIY methods often used in arts education. The thesis also describes a re-design of a clothing artifact "Dinosaurs", an original work by the author, and reflections on realized didactic complexes, that are thematically bounded by the diploma thesis' assignment and elaboration. The aim of the diploma thesis is to map issues of re-design with focus to apparel, its didactic transformation and verification of practical functionality of the resulting didactic complex.