Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T18:14:44Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Marilia Hernandes Jardim.pdf: 54375032 bytes, checksum: 754a2bce65f2359960e8f42da67f083a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014-12-03 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / This study investigates the feminine torso constriction obtained through the corset use, which presents a fundamental role on the feminine body conformation, and a pronounced function of transforming the social logic. Also, the silhouette configurations by him realized significantly alter the interaction between constricted bodies and other subjects. It is possible to postulate thus that the corset is an interactive subject, whose role is part of the social logic shaping, and not its reflex. From this point, the studied problem is the identification of the relation between the conformation of the silhouette and a consequent social interaction determination, arisen from the apprehension modes that surface from the body plastic endowed by the garment. Far from constituting a historical fashion problem, the use of constrictive lingerie present as a hodiernal topic, especially on the West, where significant efforts are devoted on the development of shaping objects, consumed by women from all ethnicities and social backgrounds. In order to understand the meanings that emerge from this complex and risky interaction between corset and body, it is necessary to seek the phenomenon origins on 18thcentury western fashion, when the corset use as an undergarment began. From this use, we purpose the identification of emblematic moments of such practice, as well as the ruptures on its continuity, designing to recognize, in those fractures, the specific roles assumed by corset and body, to categorize the transits between corset use continuity and discontinuity. For such, the study call on an extensive research corpus, formed by corset, crinoline and gown images collected from museum collections, as well as virtual stores lingerie photographs and images that can help on reconstructing the studied body tendencies, as advertising and painting reproductions. In the light of Landowski's socio-semiotic, Greimas's semiotic theory and Floch's and Oliveira's visual semiotics, we investigated the uses and apparel configurations, isolating the relations of complementarity between the roles played by the actors corset and body, which underlies the dominance of the first as body's addresser, as well as other relations between those two roles, which reveal a body leadership, important former of fashion and social surroundings passages / Esta pesquisa investiga a constrição do torso feminino praticada pelo uso do corset, que apresenta um papel fundamental na conformação do corpo feminino e uma marcada função na transformação da lógica social, uma vez que as configurações de corpo por ele realizadas alteram significativamente a interação entre os corpos constritos e os demais sujeitos formadores deste entorno social. É possível postular que o corset pode ser abordado como um sujeito da interação, cujo papel aparece como parte da formação das lógicas sociais, e não como um reflexo destes contextos. A partir daí, o problema abordado é a identificação da relação entre a conformação da silhueta e uma consequente determinação da interação social, advinda dos modos de apreensão que emergem da plástica conferida ao corpo pelo traje. Longe de constituir uma problemática pertinente ao estudo da moda de época, o uso de lingeries constritoras apresenta-se como um temário extremamente atual, sobretudo no Ocidente, onde grandes esforços são empregados pela indústria na produção de objetos constritivos, difundidos entre mulheres de todas as etnias e classes sociais. Para entender os sentidos que emergem desta complexa e arriscada interação entre corset e corpo, se faz necessária a busca das origens deste fenômeno na moda ocidental do século XVIII, quando consolidou-se o uso do corset como roupa interior. A partir deste uso, buscamos identificar momentos emblemáticos desta prática, bem como as rupturas em sua continuidade, com o objetivo de localizar nestas fraturas os papéis específicos assumidos, nas interações, pelo corset e pelo corpo, para categorizar, a partir deles, os trânsitos entre continuidade e descontinuidade do uso do corset. Para tal, este estudo recorre a um extenso corpus de pesquisa, formado por imagens de corsets, crinolinas e trajes colhidas de acervos de museus, bem como fotografias de lingeries comercializadas em lojas virtuais, além de imagens que auxiliam na recontrução das tendências de corpo estudadas, como publicidades e reproduções de pinturas. À luz da sociossemiótica de Landowski, da teoria semiótica de Greimas e da semiótica visual de Floch e Oliveira, conduzimos uma investigação destes usos e configurações vestimentares, que nos possibilitou isolar as relações de complementaridade entre os papéis dos atores corset e corpo na narrativa vestimentar, que embasam a dominância do primeiro como destinador do corpo, além das demais relações entre estes dois papéis, reveladoras de um maior protagonismo do corpo, importante formador das passagens da moda e do entorno social que a engloba

This study focuses on three young women in their final year of school using data gathered during a year-long process of individual conversational interviews, the contents of which were largely determined by their interests. Three themes arise from critical incidents during this year - the debutante ball, teenage pregnancy and dieting. These themes are used to focus wide ranging explorations of what it is to be a young woman at this particular time. The broader cultural production of discursive positions available to, and developed by, these young women as part of their identity formation is discussed. Methodological issues concerning power relationships between research participants are also the focus of critical attention. It is considered that young women's bodies and bodily practices are central to understanding the processes involved in their identity formation. It is in this context that the focus turns to bodies that matter. In contemporary Western cultures 'adolescent bodies' could be said to matter 'too much' in the sense that they are increasingly the focus for disciplinary practices in institutions such as schooling, the church, the family, health care, health promotion and the media. This disciplining is legitimised because adolescence is socially constructed as a 'becoming'. In this case it is a matter of 'becoming woman'; a sort of apprenticeship which allows for knowledgeable others to provide not only guidance and nurturance, but discipline. Using insights gained from feminist poststructuralist theory and cultural feminism this thesis argues that the discourses and practices generated within and across institutions, which are normalised by their institutional base, are gender differentiated. The focus is on young women's embodied subjectivity and how the discourses and practices they engage with and in work to construct an ideal feminine body-subject. The discursive production of a gendered identity has a considerable impact on young women's health and their health-related behaviours. This is explored specifically in the thesis in relation to sexuality and the cultural production of the 'ideal' female body. It is argued that health education and health promotion strategies which are designed to influence young women's health related behaviours, need to consider the forms of power, knowledge and desire produced through young women's active engagement with institutionalised discourses of identity if they are to have an ongoing impact