L’allergie cutanée est un problème majeur de santé publique pouvant fortement impacter la vie de l’individu atteint. Une cause largement reconnue d’allergie de contact sont les substances parfumantes intégrées dans les produits cosmétiques. La réglementation cosmétique en vigueur oblige le fabricant à évaluer les risques de ces substances. Bien que certaines de ces substances soient également présentes dans les huiles essentielles, il n’existe pas à l’heure actuelle une telle réglementation pour les huiles essentielles. L’objectif de cette thèse a été de caractériser l’exposition à certaines substances parfumantes d’intérêt provenant de la consommation d’huiles essentielles et de produits cosmétiques. Nous avons d’abord étudié la consommation d’huiles essentielles au sein d’un panel représentatif de la population française. Nous avons ensuite défini les substances parfumantes sensibilisantes retrouvées dans ces huiles. L’exposition cutanée aux produits cosmétiques a également été étudiée. Enfin, ces données ont été croisées pour comparer l’exposition provenant de la consommation de ces deux produits au limonène en utilisant des méthodes statistiques probabilistes (Méthodes de Monte-Carlo). Cela a permis de démontrer que les huiles essentielles pouvaient être un fort contributeur dans l’exposition globale au limonène, pour certaines zones corporelles comme le visage. Il a donc été mis en évidence l’intérêt de la prise en compte des huiles essentielles, et non pas seulement des produits cosmétiques dans l’exposition globale à certains allergènes de contact, pour mieux protéger la population. / Skin sensitization is a public health issue in France and in the rest of Europe that can impact the life of the affected individual. A well-known cause of skin sensitization are the fragrance allergens present in cosmetics. The European cosmetic regulation in force to date requires the manufacturer to assess the risks of these substances prior to their placing on the market. Although some of these substances are also present in essential oils, there is currently no such regulation for these products. The aim of this work was to characterize the exposure to particular fragrance substances of interest due to the consumption of essential oils and cosmetics. At first, we studied the consumption of essential oils in a representative panel of the French population. Then, we defined the fragrance allergens found in these oils. We also defined dermal exposure to cosmetics. Finally, these data were crossed using probabilistic statistical methods (Monte-Carlo methods) to compare exposure to a particular allergen present in these two products: the limonene. This work permitted to demonstrate that essential oils can be a strong contributor in the global exposure to limonene, for particular body areas, e.g. face. This work therefore highlights the importance of taking into account essential oils, and not only cosmetics in the global exposure to particular contact allergens, in order to better protect the population.

Fragrances are added to food, cosmetics and other products primarily for enhancement of their sensory quality (taste and/or aroma). However, the usage of these compounds is associated with the wide range of various adverse biological effects. Some fragrances widely used in cosmetics are proved to cause e.g. skin sensitization, rashes, dermatitis, headache, cough etc. To protect the health of consumers, European union approved the cosmetic directive (ES/1223/2009) that requires the labeling of 26 allergen fragrances on the final product label, if concentration exceeds the given level (0,01 % for rinse-off and 0,001 % for leave-on product). However, some producers hide the presence of allergens in the final product under the general term „aroma“. For this reason it is very important to monitor the content of these substances in cosmetic products. Fragrances are found not only in cosmetics, but the various types of food are also aromatized by them. Unlike cosmetics, the food producers are not obliged to label the presence of fragrance allergens on the packaging. Therefore, the monitoring of these fragrances is highly desirable because of the potential health risks they pose. The aim of this study was to develop a method for simultaneous determination of regulated fragrance allergens in food and everyday use products. The method based on extraction of analytes by solid phase microextraction coupled to gas chromatography with FID detection (HS-SPME-GC-FID) was chosen on the basis of the literature review. The fiber CAR/PDMS provided the highest extraction efficiency among the SPME fibers tested. Univariate and multivariate data analysis were used to optimize the main parameters affecting microextraction process. The final method validation was performed in terms of linearity, repeatability, reproducibility, recovery, limits of detection and quantification. The optimized and validated method was applied to a wide range of products including cosmetics, aromatized food and fragranced toys. These products were also subjected to sensory evaluation especially in terms of taste and/or aroma (i.e. flavour), which may be associated with the content of the monitored fragrances. The profile test (EN ISO 13299) and seven-point category ordinal scale (ISO 4121) were used for sensory evaluation.