The purpose of this study was to compare the effect of drycleaning on selected fusible interfacings applied to wool fabric. Six fusible interfacing were applied, following manufacturer’s directions, to a randomly selected suit-weight 100 percent wool flannel. A nine-member panel of high school home economics teachers evaluated the samples for evenness of the adhesive bond before drycleaning and following 3,6,9, and 12 drycleanings. Samples were rated using a five-point value scale, with five being the tope rating.Mean ratings were obtained for each fusible at each of the five levels of drycleaning. After 12 drycleanings, two samples, a fusible hair canvas by Staple Sewing Aids and Suit-Shape by Stacy Fabrics Corporation, received above average (3.000 or better) ratings (4.556 and 3.333, respectively). Mean ratings of the other fusibles are as follows: Sof-Shape by Pellon Corporation, 1.889; Pel-Aire by Pellon, 2.666; Easy-Shaper by Stacy, 1.333; Jiffy-Fuse by Staple, 2.333.The significance of the analysis of variance was calculated using the Duncan Multiple Range Test. Differences in means for the fusible hair canvas, Suit-Shape and Jiffy-Fuse were not found to be significant (p<.05). Significant difference in mean ratings did occur for the other three samples.

The purpose of this research was to compare preshrunk and nonshrunk fabrics when fused to suitable weight interfacings by examination of rigidity, bond strength, and dimensional stability. More specifically, varying fiber content and three types of nonwoven interfacing were used. Preshinking consisted of a warm wash and tumble dry Preshrunk and unshrunk fabrics were fused to each of the three interfacings using an industrial steam press. Selected performance properties were measured after 1, 5, and 10 laundering periods. The data were subjected to a randomized complete block design analysis of variance to determine the significance cf main effects and interactions among variables. The .05 level of significance was used. The four fabric types were different from each other. fabric had a significant effect on all of the dependent variables: rigidity, bond strength, and dimensional stability. The three types of interfacings, although different, were not as dramatically different as were the fabrics. The type of interfacing had a statistically significant effect on two of the dependent variables, flexural rigidity and bond strength, but, had no significant effect upon the dimensional stability. The preshrinkage of the fabric had an effect on the flexural rigidity and bond strength, but had no effect on dimensional stability when measured in the weft direction. Prewashed fabrics were found to be slightly more rigid and exhibited much weaker fabric-interface bonds than the control samples. Evidence from this research suggested that shirting fabric should not be preshrunk prior to garment construction. / M.S.

Garment construction is based on converting a fashion fabric into a wearable structure. Interfacings are attached to the fashion fabric in enclosed seams to provide support and stiffness for the seam area. Interfacings affect how the fashion fabric can bend. Therefore, it is the purpose of this study to determine the effect fusible and nonfusible nonwoven interfacings have on three bending properties of a lightweight suiting fabric. These three properties are flexural rigidity, crease recovery, and seam head size. A lightweight suiting fabric, a nonwoven fusible interfacing, and a nonwoven nonfusible interfacing were selected for the study. The flexural rigidity and crease recovery were measured for the component pieces of fashion fabric, nonfusible interfacing, and fusible interfacing and for the fusible and nonfusible composites. The flexural rigidity and crease recovery for the composites were recorded for the composite bent with the interfacing side up and with the interfacing side down. Seam head size was measured for enclosed seams with no interfacing (control), fusible interfacing, and nonfusible interfacing. Cross-sections of the enclosed seams were photographed against a ruler with hundredths of an inch increments. The seam head size was read from each of the photographic slides. Seven null hypotheses were tested. The hypotheses pertained to bending resistance and crease recovery of composites and their components, interfacing side up and down when bending and creasing, and fusible and nonfusible composites; and to seam head sizes of composites of the three selected fabrics. It was found that it did not make a difference which interfacing type is used (fusible or nonfusible) with respect to crease recovery and seam head size. It did make a difference which interfacing type was used with respect to flexural rigidity. The fusible composite was 2. 47 times stiffer than the nonfusible, however. / Master of Science