Global wave predictions produced at two U. S. forecasting centers, Fleet Numerical Meteorology and Oceanography Center and the National Centers for Environmental Prediction are evaluated with spectral buoy measurements. In this study, the fidelity of frequency-directional spectra predicted by WAM and WAVEWATCH III at the operational centers is examined with data from 3-meter discus and 6-meter nomad buoys operated by the National Data Buoy Center in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and Datawell Directional Waverider buoys deployed along the California coast by the Scripps Institution of Oceanography Coastal Data Information Program. Only buoys located in deep water are used in the comparisons. Model nowcasts of frequency spectra and mean wave directions are compared to buoy measurements over a six-month period from 1 October 2000 to 31 March 2001. At the Pacific buoy locations, individual swell events were identified in the spectra from the three models and the buoy data. Predicted and observed swell frequencies and arrival directions are compared as well as the total energy transported past the buoy over the duration of each individual event. At all buoy locations, predicted and observed wave energy fluxes integrated over fixed frequency ranges are compared. All three models yield reliable nowcasts of swell arrivals at the buoy locations. In most cases, the models under-predict the energy measured by the buoys. WAVEWATCH III better resolves low-frequency swells than WAM, possibly owing to a superior numerical scheme. Swell predictions at NCEP forced with AVN winds are more accurate than those at FNMOC forced with NOGAPS winds. / US Navy (USN) author

Thesis (M.S. in Meteorology and Physical Oceanography) Naval Postgraduate School, December 2001. / "December 2001". Thesis advisor(s): Herbers, Thomas H.C.; Wittmann, Paul A. Includes bibliographical references (p. 39). Also available online.