The integration of wire-form, nickel titanium (NiTi), shape memory alloys (SMA), within woven structures, offers the potential to generate unique properties in this bi-material composite. The combination of two materials, one of which can be modified with regard to its stiffness and elastic behaviour, gives further latitude for the textile designer to adapt a combination of functional and aesthetic properties in constructed textiles. To date, there has been limited research into the impact textile structures could have on both direct and indirect shape transfer from an integrated SMA component. This thesis overviews the integration of shape memory materials in textile structures informed through practice.

This thesis is an investigation into woven textile structures and weave construction methodologies. The main question at the heart of this research is what are smart textiles and what role/s can weaving play in the creation of such textiles in the future? A critical review of the literature led to a grammatical investigation and interpretation of the term smart textiles, and as a result a key differentiator between superficial and deep responsivity in textiles is made: the latter is henceforth used to describe the uniqueness of smart textiles (chapter 3). The thesis proceeds to explore the fundamental engineering of textiles as material systems, and by doing so, provide clues as to how fabrics could themselves be considered smart. Through this exploration, an original ‘textile anatomy’ mapping tool is presented with the aim to enhance and deepen current understanding of textiles and represent them as material systems instead (chapters 4 and 5). The hybrid research methodology that governed this investigation is unique. It relies on the creative tools of Design while also inherently applies the investigative methods of Science, Technology and Engineering (chapter 2). Weaving is explored through processes of making as an approach to develop smart textiles following an extensive historical review revealing that although methods of weave production have much evolved, the weave structures themselves have not changed at all for thousands of years (chapter 5). A series of experimental case studies are presented, which therefore seek to explore and challenge current limitations of weaving for the creation of a new generation of material systems (chapter 6). As part of this practical work the alternative fabrication technology of additive manufacturing was considered, but its role as substitute manufacturing technique for textiles was accordingly rejected. This research finds that since weaving has become solely dependent on its machines, the structures produced through these processes of manufacturing are governed by such same specifications and limitations. As a result, in order to step away from current constraints, new assembly methodologies need to be revised. This is particularly applicable within the context of future (smart) material systems, and micro and nano fabrication techniques (chapters 7, 8 and 9).

Polyurethane (PU) foam has unique characteristics making it suitable for many applications such as: aeronautics, automotive, building construction, marine, and many house-hold applications. PU’s biodegradability, biocompatibility, lightweight, and durability make it suitable for several medical applications. The porous structure of PU foams enables them to be used for lightweight components and for medical applications where the permeability allows nutrients to reach cell growth areas. The foam components are currently mainly manufactured by material removal i.e. subtractive machining or a casting/moulding processes. Additive Manufacturing (AM) processes (3D printing), build components in 2D layers and have been utilised to manufacture a range of products for many applications including: jewelry, footwear, industrial design, architecture, engineering and construction, etc. The additive processes have the ability to generate internal hollow structures or scaffolds. The nature of parts produced by AM technologies makes it fit for lightweight products such as aerospace parts, medical scaffolds, etc., in metals and polymers, however the technology has not been used to produce objects using PU as its material, due to the foaming nature of the material when its two base materials (polyol and Diisocyanate) encounter with each other. This research has undertaken a critical review of PU foaming processes, medical applications, and characteristics of AM technology processes. The effect of resins mixing ratios, temperature, and foaming direction on the physical and mechanical properties of PU foam have been investigated and used as a base to establish a platform for further development. The research has evaluated the suitability of Additive manufactured PU foam structures for further application such as medical scaffolds by comparing the foams produced using traditional method and have developed an AM production method (In-flight mixing system) for the material (PU). Based on the evaluations, a new technique has been pro-posed and tested which is able to generate PU 3D structures. Foam produced by the designed system has average pore size of 689μm which will allow the following: the flow of fluid such as blood, diffusion of waste products out of the scaffold, and cell infiltration and can therefore be suggested for the production of medi-cal scaffolds.

Great changes characterized the mid- to late nineteenth century in the field of dye chemistry, including many innovations in the production of colours across the spectrum, especially the development of synthetic dyes from coal-tar aniline. From 1840 to 1875, textile manufacturers offered a wide variety of colourful dress textiles to female fashion consumers in both Great Britain and the United States. Middle-class women were urged to educate themselves about dyeing, science, and colour, while cultivating appropriate, moderate attention to fashion in dress. This thesis examines the mid-nineteenth century relationship of fashion, dye chemistry, and everyday science, exploring consumers’ responses to these phenomena of modernity. Paying special attention to the appreciation of chemistry and colour theory during the period, this project considers how the development of new dyes affected middle-class uses and discussions of colours in women’s dress.