Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Canterbury, 2006. / Typescript (photocopy). Includes bibliographical references (p. 343-364). Also available via the World Wide Web.

Beach sand acts as a buffer to wave energy, protecting the shoreline from erosion. Estimates of the quantity and distribution of beach sand in littoral cells of the PNW are critical to the understanding and prediction of shoreline erosion or accretion. This study was initiated in order to: 1) document the distribution of sand in littoral cells of the Pacific Northwest; 2) determine the factors which have brought about these present distributions; and 3) address the relationship of beach sand distribution to shoreline stability.

This thesis focuses on three areas of investigation: construction and calibration of gypsum cylinders for the measurement of water flow; quantification of the relationship between flow and macrophyte structure; and the prediction of surficial sediment size structure in the littoral. Near-bottom water flow at 34 littoral sites was quantified using gypsum dissolution. Plant surface area within three weedbeds in Lake Memphremagog (Que. - Vt.) explained 67% of the variance in flow when the effect of water depth was removed. A model relating waterflow within beds to average wind energy and plant surface area was constructed. A multivariate model developed and tested in the littoral of Lake Memphremagog explained 67% of the variance in the proportion of sediment $<$2 um in diameter (clay). The model included the physical variables of fetch, depth, and slope and biological measures of plant presence or absence and sediment organic matter. A second model required plant surface area and sediment organic matter to explain 83% of the variance in the proportion of clay at sites within weedbeds, near the depth of maximum plant biomass.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of California, Santa Cruz, 1995. / Typescript. Includes bibliographical references.

No description available.

Understanding sandbar dynamics and variability is integral to developing a predictive capacity for nearshore flows, sediment transport, morphological change, and ultimately for determining coastline exposure to damaging storm waves. Along the high-energy U.S. Pacific Northwest (PNW) coast, sandbars typically dominate the bathymetry of the active zone. Here we report on a nearshore bathymetric data set that covers an exceptionally long stretch of coast and crosses several littoral cell boundaries. Our study area stretches from Point Grenville, Washington to Cascade Head, Oregon, including 8 littoral cells and approximately 250 km in the alongshore. We describe and quantify the morphological variability of sandbars in the PNW over large spatial scales as well as attempt to explain the inter-littoral cell variability via trends and variability in environmental parameters. From 560 bathymetric profiles (~1000 km of measurements) we have extracted over 500 distinct subtidal sandbars. The bar zone extends to over 1km from the shoreline in the northern part of the study area, but only to about 600m in the southern part. Maximum bar crest depths are typically 7m below MLLW. Bar heights range from a step in the cross-shore profile to over 3m from crest to trough. The northernmost littoral cells typically have two or more bars per cross-shore profile whereas the littoral cells in the southern part of our study area have only one bar. The mean depths of the bars, however, are much more consistent across littoral cells. The mean depths remain consistent even while the upper shoreface slope significantly increases from north to south, requiring that the maximum bar distance from the shoreline decreases from north to south. This regional gradient in upper shoreface slope is likely a response, at least in part, to a general coarsening trend in the sediment from north to south and hence linked to variations in regional geology. / Graduation date: 2013

The state of Georgia has two large ports that are accessed by way of navigable entrance channels. One of these ports is located in Brunswick, Georgia, and is maintained by the United States Army Corps of Engineers via periodic dredging. Sediments removed from the channel are typically pumped several miles offshore of Brunswick and placed in dredged material mounds, thus removing the sediment from the littoral cycle. This offshore placement, while being the most economically viable method, often negatively impacts the sediment budget of the coastal region and causes erosion downdrift of the channel, specifically along Jekyll Island. Onshore placement of the dredged material is not feasible due to increased associated costs and the high fraction of fines present in the material; thus, nearshore placement is a potentially viable alternative. Nearshore placement could possibly reduce erosion rates and provide protection to property from waves and storms. The USACE initiated a thorough field data collection campaign in 2002 to study the possibility of beneficial placement of dredged material. The author analyzed the existing data to predict the rate and direction of sediment movement away from an existing dredge mound. These predictions are then compared to bathymetric survey data in an effort to validate the results and methodologies used for sediment transport predictions. The ultimate goal is to use the results of this study along with numerical models currently being developed by the Corps to assess the possibility of sediments being transported toward the shore thus re-entering the littoral cycle and providing a benefit to the coast of Georgia.

Longshore sediment transport rate was measured during energetic sea breeze activity, on intermediate-to-reflective sandy beaches in Southwestern Australia. Estimates of suspended load were obtained using backscatter sensors, current meters and streamer traps. Total load was determined using fluorescent tracer sand and an impoundment study. The measurementsw ere cross-compareda nd usedt o evaluates everalw idely-used longshore transport equations. The streamer trap measurement revealed an exponential distribution of the suspended sediment flux with vertical mixing decreasing in the onshore direction. A continuous time series of the longshore suspended sediment flux across the surf zone was obtained by combining the streamer trap measurements with data collected using surf zone instruments. Comparison of the suspended longshore flux with the total longshore flux derived from the dispersal of the sand tracer indicated that the relative contribution of the suspendedlo ad to the total load was at least 59 %. The movement of sandt racer on four different beaches demonstrated that nearshore sediments were transported obliquely across the surf zone, challenging our conventional view of dividing nearshore sediment transport into cross-shore and longshore components. Furthermore, tracer was found to move from the outer surf zone to the swash zone and vice versa, indicating a cross-shore sediment exchange. The contribution of the swash zone to the total longshore flux was estimated around 30-40 %. Despite large differences in the temporal and spatial scales of the measurement techniques, the littoral drift rates are comparable, suggesting a northward transport rate of 138,000-200,000 m3 year-1. Longshore sediment transport during sea breezes is mainly the result of a high longshore energy flux exerted by wind waves. This is accurately predicted by the equations of Inman and Bagnold (1963) and CERC (1984). The bimodal wave field, characteristic of Southwestern Australia, renders the Kamphuis (1991b) formula unsuitable in this instance.

Ce travail présente une analyse de l'évolution morphologique et des processus sédimentaires actuels du plateau continental interne sud-aquitain, (sud-est du Golfe de Gascogne, France),secteur riche en données, mais sur lequel de nombreuses questions restent néanmoins en suspens. Il s'articule autour de deux zones ateliers complémentaires : la zone de « La Salie-Biscarrosse » sur le plateau continental interne sud-aquitain au sud des passes du Bassin d'Arcachon (entre 5 et 50 m de profondeur d’eau), et la tête du canyon de Capbreton et ses abords (entre 5 et 120 m de profondeur d’eau). Deux approches sont utilisées : (1) une approche descriptive et comparative (dans le temps), utilisant des données géo-acoustiques(sondeur multi faisceaux, sonar latéral et sondeur de sédiments), des prélèvements et (2) une approche mettant en oeuvre des modélisations numériques des interactions houles / courants /sédiments. Les résultats obtenus sur le plateau interne aquitain ont permis d'améliorer la connaissance de la morphologie, de la nature et de la géométrie interne des corps sédimentaires, d'étudier leur évolution au cours des 29 dernières années (entre 1984 et 2013)et de proposer des facteurs à l’origine de cette évolution. Le résultat majeur est la mise en évidence de « sorted bebforms » entretenus par la houle; dont la surprenante migration vers le nord-est est à associer à la récente découverte d'intenses épisodes de « poleward current » sur le plateau. Le suivi entre 1998 et 2013 de l’évolution morphologique de la tête du Canyon de Capbreton, située à seulement 250 m du littoral montre une évolution rapide qui fluctue cependant autour d'une position d'équilibre. Par ailleurs l’influence de la dérive littorale sur les transferts de sédiments du plateau vers le canyon a pu être démontrée. En-effet, les arguments morphologiques et sédimentaires, associés à la modélisation numérique, prouvent que la dérive littorale aquitaine alimente épisodiquement (conditions de houle forte) la tête de canyon en sables littoraux. / This study proposes an analysis of the morphological evolution and recent sedimentary processes of the south Aquitaine inner shelf (south east Bay of Biscay, France). This area is greatly documented but improvement of our knowledge is needed for a better understanding.Two complementary study areas are analyzed: « La Salie-Biscarrosse » area of the south-Aquitaine inner shelf (in a water depth extending from 5 to 50 m), and the head of the Capbreton Canyon (in a water depth extending from 5 to 120 m). Two approaches are used:(1) a descriptive and comparative analysis of the geophysical and sedimentological data setsand (2) a numerical modeling taking into account swell, current and sediments. The results obtained allow the description and the interpretation of the morphology, the nature, the internal geometry of the sedimentary structures, and their evolution along the last 29 years(between 1984 and 2013). The major result highlights the presence of sorted bedforms maintained by the swell, migrating northeastward and associated with the recent discovery of punctual poleward current on the shelf. The seafloor morphology of the Capbreton Canyonhead located only 250 m off the coastline, has experienced significant changes between 1998 and 2013, nonetheless it oscillates around a position of equilibrium. Furthermore, the influence of the littoral drift on sediment transfer from the shelf to the canyon was demonstrated. Sedimentary and morphological evidences combined with numerical modelingattest to the feeding of the Capbreton canyon head with coastal sand supplied by the southward long shore drift under high-energy wave conditions.

Beach profile models predict the changes in bathymetry along a line perpendicular to the shoreline. These models are used to forecast bathymetric changes in response to storms, sea level rise or human activities such as dredging and beach nourishment. Process-based models achieve this by simulating the physical processes that drive the sediment transport as opposed to behavior models which simulate observed profile changes without resolving the underlying processes. Some of these processes are wave shoaling and breaking, boundary layer streaming, and offshore-directed undertow currents. These hydrodynamic processes control the sediment processes such as sediment pick-up from the bottom, diffusion of the sediment across the water column and its advection with waves and currents. For this study, newly developed sediment transport and boundary layer models were coupled with existing models of wave transformation, nearshore circulation and bathymetry update, to predict beach profile changes. The models covered the region from the dry land to a depth of 6-8 meters, spanning up to 500 meters in the cross-shore direction. The modeling system was applied at storm time scales, extending from a couple of hours to several days. Two field experiments were conducted at Myrtle Beach, SC, involving the collection of wave, current and bathymetric data as a part of this study. The results were used to calibrate and test the numerical models along with data from various laboratory studies from the literature. The sediment transport model computes the variation of sediment concentrations over a wave period and over the water column, solving the advection-diffusion equation using the Crank-Nicholson finite-difference numerical scheme. Using a new approach, erosion depth thickness and sediment concentrations within the bed were also predicted. The model could predict sediment transport rates for a range of conditions, within a factor of two. It successfully computed the sediment concentration profile over the water column and within the bed and its variation throughout a wave period. Erosion depth and sheet flow layer thickness were also predicted reasonably well. Wave heights across the profile were predicted within ten percent when the empirical wave breaking parameter was tuned appropriately. Mean cross-shore velocities contain more uncertainty, even after tuning. The importance of capturing the location of the maximum, near-bottom, cross-shore velocity when predicting bar behavior was shown. Bar formation, erosion, accretion, onshore and offshore bar movement were all computed with the model successfully