This dissertation explores the changing nature of the male consumer market as defined by the mass media. The "peacock revolution" of the 1970s, the "new" man of the 1980s, and the "metrosexual" man of the late 1900s are just a few examples of the mainstream press proclaiming a new ideology and image for American men. In addition to the new exterior image of men, there has been recent discussion of a move toward a heightened level of muscularity as a measure of male beauty. Although there are numerous examples of these suppositions in the press, this research does not support such claims. Using men's lifestyle magazines over a 40 year span (1965-2005) as a source of information the product categories, advertising purchasers, male model body preferences, and sexuality of imagery featuring male models were examined. The advertising of appearance management products, and the individual product categories themselves, have remained consistent over the 40 year time span. This shows a steady interest in clothing and appearance products. Preferred body type for male models in these men's interest magazines has also essentially remained consistent. The mesomorphic body type is the most popular body type, showing a preference for a specific male waist to shoulder ratio over time. Aspects of the male body that have shown variation over time is body fat levels and muscularity. There has been a decrease in the amount of general body fat over time with a low recorded in the 1990s. Muscularity preference has been shown to be in the "somewhat" muscular rating as opposed to the "very" muscular rating, going against the notion that men are idealized to be larger and stronger than ever before. Analysis of advertisements featuring male models shows a consistency of male body exposure and sexuality of imagery. Sexuality of imagery was measured using several distinct methods. One method compared the results of heterosexual and homosexual men and found a statistical difference in response. Overall, this research presents an argument for the consistency of male appearance management product interest, ideal male body type, and sexual nature of advertising in selected men's interest magazines. / A Dissertation submitted to the Department of Textiles and Consumer Sciences in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. / Fall Semester, 2006. / October 26, 2006. / Merchandising, Apparel, Retail / Includes bibliographical references. / Jeanne Heitmeyer, Professor Directing Dissertation; Barry Sapolsky, Outside Committee Member; Susan Fiorito, Committee Member; Pauline Sullivan, Committee Member.

Proper alignment of posture can serve as a preventative measure or treatment for back pain or strain. Despite the prevalence of spine (back) problems in the domestic population, many patients are non-compliant with current methods of treatment or prevention which include exercise (Dettotri, Bullock, Sutlive, Franklin, & Patience, 1996), use of supports (Dunn, Brace, Masud, Haslam, & Morris, 2005 ), and sometimes surgery (MayoClinic.com, 2007). Supports include rigid, brace-type structures as well as semi-rigid or non-rigid structures, some of which are worn like garments. The development of a soft structural support garment to support proper postural alignment may meet with improved compliance based on the symbiotic relationship between comfort and wearer acceptability (Rutherford-Black & Khan, 1995; Huck & Kim, 1997; Watkins, 1995; and Barker, 2007). Postural alignment is established by the relationship between the five areas of the back and their relationships to one another (Rhodes, 1996). Existing support garments have focused on the cervical and lumbar regions of the back or on multiple regions. There is a lack of research on the thoracic region of the spine and the possible role of soft structural support garments in encouraging proper postural alignment by focusing on that area. This study developed and tested a prototype for a soft structural support garment for the thoracic area of the spine to improve postural alignment. The purpose was to design and assess the postural alignment effectiveness, wearer acceptability, and comfort aspects of a prototype soft structural thoracic support garment as compared to two commercially available thoracic support garments (ComA and ComB). Each of the treatments was assessed for postural alignment effectiveness using an existing photographic method and using a method developed in this study that employs a 3-dimensional body scanner. Participants wore the garments during a prescribed activity protocol to evaluate wearer acceptability, thermal comfort, fit, and mobility. The results of the study indicated that the prototype was successful in providing equivalent postural alignment, thermal comfort, static and dynamic fit satisfaction, overall mobility, and psychosocial comfort, as compared to the two commercially available structural support garments. The prototype also provided similar wearer acceptability as the commercially available support A (ComA). However, the prototype provided better wearer acceptability than the commercially available support B (ComB). The prototype was also rated as having better ease of movement for typing and reaching forward than ComB and was perceived as more loosely fitted than both ComA and ComB. Additionally, more participants provided positive comments regarding the aesthetics, style, and design of the prototype than the other treatments. The prototype also provided significantly better postural alignment than the control as measured by the photographic method used in the study. This indication of postural alignment effectiveness of a soft structural support garment for the thoracic area of the spine adds to the body of knowledge regarding the use of such garments for prevention or treatment of poor posture. Results of the study provided information for improvement of the prototype including frequent suggestions from participants that a built-in bra would be desirable. / A Dissertation submitted to the Department of Textiles and Consumer Sciences in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. / Spring Semester, 2008. / March 17, 2008. / Posture, Prototype, Comfort, Functional Design Process, Fit, Body Scanning, Wear Test / Includes bibliographical references. / Rinn M. Cloud, Professor Directing Dissertation; Catherine Black, Professor Co-Directing Dissertation; Thomas Ratliffe, Outside Committee Member; Jeanne Heitmeyer, Committee Member; Lynn Panton, Committee Member.

This dissertation consists of three essays which progressively develop and refine a model of effective customer and frontline employee involvement in the new service development process. The first essay builds a conceptual model based on the literature; the second essay develops the model constructs and relationships based on findings from a series of in-depth interviews; and the third essay consists of an empirical study which tests the hypothesized model with data from a survey of senior managers who are directly involved in the new service development process of their organizations. Essay 1: Prior research describes how service firms involve customers and frontline employees in the new service development process, but no studies have examined how that involvement relates to NSD key success factors and performance outcomes. This study proposes a model of how customer, frontline employee and entrepreneurial leader participation in various stages of the NSD process directly affects project success factors and indirectly influences the operational and financial performance of service innovation initiatives. The paper identifies opportunities for future research and proposes exploratory and quantitative studies to refine and test the model. Essay 2: Many service firms rely on innovation strategies to build competitive advantage. This exploratory study proposes a model of new service development that enhances performance outcomes by prescribing specific roles for customers and frontline employees in the new service development process. Service innovation project outcomes improve when customers and frontline employees participate in the process in ways that positively affect the project's service marketability, deliverability, launch preparation and launch effectiveness. Findings are based on interviews with managers from nine service firms across a broad variety of service sectors. Recommendations are offered for future empirical research to further refine the model. Essay 3: Service firms recognize the major role of product and process innovation in building and sustaining competitive advantage in the marketplace. This empirical study tests a model of new service development that enhances performance outcomes by prescribing specific roles for customers and frontline employees in the new service development process. Findings are based on survey data collected from organizations across a variety of service sectors. The study provides support for hypotheses that customer and frontline employee participation in specific stages of the new service development process positively affects the project's service marketability, deliverability, launch preparation and launch effectiveness. The influence of customers and frontline employees on project performance outcomes is indirect and mediated by new service development success factors. Recommendations are offered for future empirical research to further refine the model. / A Dissertation Submitted to the Department of Marketing in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy. / Fall Semester, 2007. / July 12, 2007. / Frontline Employee, New Service Development, Service Marketability, New Product Development, Customer / Includes bibliographical references. / Michael D. Hartline, Professor Directing Dissertation; Ceasar Douglas, Outside Committee Member; Michael J. Showalter, Committee Member; Ruby P. Lee, Committee Member.

In recent years, the US apparel industry has fallen in love with youth, focusing its apparel offerings on a very young demographic. As a result, in the United States there are approximately 40 million mature female consumers (MFCs) between the ages of 50 and 64 who struggle to find appropriate apparel despite having more money to spend on apparel than any other age cohort. As the most underserved segment of the US population in terms of apparel choices, they have become the invisible women in the apparel marketplace. This study sought to make more visible the plight of MFCs by investigating how they develop their perceptions of appropriate apparel for their age group and how these perceptions align with the apparel assortments the industry has made available to them. Using the theory of Symbolic Interaction as a framework, an exploratory qualitative research study was conducted using lightly structured interviews of 22 MFCs from the southeastern United States. Interview questions focused on four areas in regards to the MFC apparel experience: (1) apparel shopping experiences; (2) identities/images expressed through apparel; (3) the influence of social set on apparel choices, and (4) perceptions of the apparel industry. The interview data was subjected to interpretive analysis using a phenomenological and heuristic approach. Five broad overarching themes emerged from the data analysis: (1) historical development drives MFCs' rules of appropriate dress; (2) roles and events drive many MFC apparel choices; (3) we (MFCs) know who we are; (4) we (MFCs) are the invisible women to the market; and (5) we (MFCs) are strategic problem solvers. The study respondents demonstrated that social influence was a critical factor in their apparel experience, as expected; however, the data revealed a surprising dual influence based on their social histories and their current social influences. MFCs appeared confident in their own personas and deeply angry over their treatment by the apparel industry. They were seasoned, veteran warriors going into battle planning battle strategies—not only to achieve their apparel goals but also to maintain their dignity. The results of this study suggest the need to continue exploratory research to flesh out the discipline's understanding of the MFC apparel experience and the need to find a way to redefine MFCs in the eyes of the apparel industry. This very large segment of the population offers large financial rewards for designers, manufacturers, and retailers who target age appropriate apparel for it. The study results also suggest a need to revise SI theory and the SI theory of fashion change and/or to develop an SI-based apparel theory at the personal level. / A Dissertation Submitted to the Department of Retail Merchandising and Product Development in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy. / Spring Semester, 2011. / February 22, 2011. / shopping behavior / Includes bibliographical references. / Barbara Dyer, Professor Directing Dissertation; Bruce Lamont, University Representative; Mary Ann Moore, Committee Member; Jeannie Heitmeyer, Committee Member; Marsha Rehm, Committee Member.

The current research is undertaken to understand the degree to which K-means clustering is resilient to coarse scales and skewed distributions. Two empirical studies are conducted to evaluate how scale granularity and non-normal distributions impact cluster solutions. In both studies, important considerations in the design and testing of clustering methods are addressed. The findings demonstrate that scale granularity influences the quality of a clustering solution, whether quality is measured as cluster recovery or as local optima. However, skewed distributions did not have an impact under the conditions that were tested. Important research directions are explored. / A Dissertation submitted to the Department of Marketing in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. / Fall Semester, 2007. / October 19, 2007. / cluster analysis, scaling, simulation, K-means / Includes bibliographical references. / Michael J. Brusco, Professor Directing Dissertation; James G. Combs, Outside Committee Member; J. Dennis Cradit, Committee Member; Charles F. Hofacker, Committee Member.

The effect of Internet technology use on the relationship between U.S. exporters and their overseas distributors is investigated. This study examines the effects Internet technology may have on the quality of communication, the quality of relationship, the level of distributor motivation, and distributor performance. Results of a study of 261 exporting manufacturers from across the United States suggests that Internet technology has a positive effect on the quality of communication between exporters and distributors. However, for that increase in communication quality to affect distributor performance, it must be mediated by either a) distributor motivation through cooperation in the relationship, or b) commitment in the relationship. Results also suggest that the role of trust in the exporter-distributor relationship may not be as vital as previously thought. These results are discussed with regard to their theoretical and practical implications. / A Dissertation submitted to the Department of Marketing in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. / Fall Semester, 2005. / October 3, 2005. / Exporter-Distributor Relationship, Internet Technology / Includes bibliographical references. / Gary A. Knight, Professor Directing Dissertation; Lee Stepina, Outside Committee Member; Larry Giunipero, Committee Member; Charles Hofacker, Committee Member.

Consensus analysis methods are commonly used by anthropologists to study cultural knowledge. Consensus analysis has been used to study intracultural variance, intercultural variance, and cultural consonance across a variety of contexts. However, the cultural consensus model and other consensus analysis methods have not become methods that are commonly used by marketing researchers to study cultural knowledge. This dissertation reviews the theoretical and methodological foundations of the cultural consensus model in order to shed light on a method that marketing researchers could use to statistically estimate various aspects of cultural knowledge. In addition, this dissertation reviews how the cultural consensus model has been applied by anthropologists and discusses how the cultural consensus model could be applied to study consumer culture, organizational culture, and national culture. In order to illustrate how consensus analysis can be used to study intracultural variance, intercultural variance, and cultural consonance three original empirical studies are performed. Finally, based on methodological issues encountered during the three empirical studies, this dissertation identifies important considerations a researcher should bear in mind when performing an ethnographic study that uses consensus analysis methods. / A Dissertation submitted to the Department of Marketing in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. / Spring Semester, 2007. / March 28, 2007. / Marketing, Culture / Includes bibliographical references. / Michael K. Brady, Professor Directing Dissertation; William A. Christiansen, Outside Committee Member; Michael D. Hartline, Committee Member; Charles F. Hofacker, Committee Member.

The retailing arena has witnessed a revolution over the last decade, whereby department stores have slowly expired and discount retailers have come of age. The consumer exodus from department to discount has resulted in annual sales by mass merchandisers that dwarf their department store counterparts. Yet despite the presence of these developments, limited academic research has been directed towards this retailing phenomenon. This study explores the variables that contributed to this retailing revolution. Specifically, the role of demographic variables, personality, situational variables, self-congruency and value are investigated. A nomological network that incorporates value determination and the specific personality variable of self-monitoring is explored with an aim of better explaining why consumers left the long standing department store and what can be done to bring them back to this retailing format. / A Dissertation submitted to the Department of Marketing in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. / Summer Semester, 2006. / June 16, 2006. / Situational Influences, Mass Merchandisers, Department stores, Self-Congruency, Self-Monitoring / Includes bibliographical references. / Leisa Flynn, Professor Directing Dissertation; Mark Bonn, Outside Committee Member; Ronald Goldsmith, Committee Member; Gary Knight, Committee Member.

Social response theory states that individuals have a tendency respond to social influences (i.e., normative pressure) in different ways. These responses can be divided into conforming or nonconforming responses. Nonconforming responses can be further broken down into anticonformity (a rebellious tendency to go against the norm) or independence (a tendency go against the norm in a way that adheres to personal norms without a rebellious motive). Conformity and anticonformity have been examined in a consumer context. Indeed, consumer measures analogous to conformity and anticonformity have been developed. However, independence as a response to normative pressure has been neglected in a consumer context. The author suggests a new construct, consumer independence, to address this apparent gap in the literature. Consumer independence is defined as an enduring consumer tendency to respond to social influences pertaining to product and brand choices and uses by giving minimal weight to the prescribed norms of consumer reference groups adhering instead to personal preferences and tastes despite the apparent deviation from the prescribed norms of consumer behavior absent the motivation to actively rebel against existing norms. Based on this theoretical definition, the author develops a measure of consumer independence. Based on the established protocol for the development of self-report measures in consumer behavior, a lengthy scale development process was undertaken to develop a consumer independence scale. The ultimate result of this dissertation is a five-item self-report measure of consumer independence that is shown to be both valid and reliable, with excellent psychometric properties. The construct is demonstrated in a nomological network that contains theoretical antecedents, correlates, and outcomes of consumer independence. / A Dissertation submitted to the Department of Marketing in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. / Summer Semester, 2006. / June 15, 2006. / Social Response, Consumer Independence, Independence, Anticonformity, Detached, Consumer Social Response Tendencies, Consumer Personality, Nonconformity / Includes bibliographical references. / Ronald E. Goldsmith, Professor Directing Dissertation; Susan C. Losh, Outside Committee Member; Michael D. Hartline, Committee Member; Leisa R. Flynn, Committee Member.

The current research is undertaken to gain a better understanding of the formation of customer loyalty and the effects that loyalty has on customer outcome behaviors. As a result of a review of the literature and two empirical studies, a loyalty measurement model is identified that identifies four types of service loyalty (i.e. cognitive, affective, conative, and action). The loyalty measurement model and subsequent structural research model are tested on a sample of 2,187 consumers from such wide-ranging service industries as movie theatres, dry cleaners, sporting events, hair salons/barber shops, auto repair, and physicians. The development and validation of the loyalty scale is the first contribution of the current research. In addition, the antecedent effects of service quality, satisfaction, value, trust, justice, and risk on loyalty are considered. The results of the current research suggest that overall perceptions of service quality, satisfaction, value, and trust all significantly drive customers' attitudinal loyalty. Furthermore, the results indicate that identification, exclusive consideration, advocacy (WOM), strength of preference, and share of wallet behaviors are direct outcomes of service loyalty. The findings also suggest that gender, age, and income are demographic variables that moderate the relationships between loyalty and its antecedents. Likewise, the level of complexity, justice, and risk inherent in the service delivery also moderate the strength of the relationships between the antecedents to loyalty and loyalty. Finally, the research identifies the differential effects of service type and type of consumption on the relationships identified in the research model. / A Dissertation submitted to the Department of Marketing in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. / Summer Semester, 2005. / July 1, 2005. / Trust, Satisfaction, Structural Equation Modeling, Value, Services Marketing, Service Loyalty, Quality / Includes bibliographical references. / J. Joseph Cronin, Jr., Professor Directing Dissertation; William A. Christiansen, Outside Committee Member; Larry Giunipero, Committee Member; Michael K. Brady, Committee Member.