Thesis (M. Tech. (Fashion, Dept. of Visual Arts and Design)--Vaal University of Technology. / This study was contracted by the African Warrior Project of the South African National Defence Force (SAND F), which focuses on the needs of the future soldier. Fit problems cause the wearers of these combat trousers physical discomfort during routine physical training as the trousers restrict movement. The goals of the study were to investigate problems experienced by the male soldiers regarding the fit of the combat trousers, and to make recommendations regarding possible fit solutions. The objectives of this study were to determine the nature of the fit complaints in terms of the wearer characteristics and activities related to aesthetic and functional aspects; to analyse the design of the combat trousers in terms of size, key dimensions, proportion, balance and ease to determine the source of the fit the problems; and to analyse the f1t of the combat trousers against the subjective fit preferences of the wearers, and objective fit opinions of an expert. The target population of the study was the male SANDF members in the target age group of the African Warrior Project, namely 18 to 35 years. The first sample group consisted of 60 SANDF members between the ages of 24 to 45 years. The second sample of 24 subjects was selected from the first sample group, using height and body shape as parameters. The methods included biographic profiling, focus group interviews, one-to-one interviews, motor tests, body and garment measuring, photographs, somatographs and pattern analysis. The findings indicate the possibility of an inadequate garment design in relation to specific wearer characteristics such as ethnicity and body shape. The complicated size designation system used, compounded by the waist as the only key dimension provided, contributed to the distribution of the incorrectly sized combat trousers to the wearers. Analysis of the design indicated that it does not adequately accommodate the body characteristics and fit preferences of the subjects, to ensure optimum functionality as well as an acceptable aesthetic appearance. These problems need to be addressed. / ERGOTECH; VUT

Thesis (M. Tech. (Fashion, Dept. of Visual Arts and Design)--Vaal University of Technology / This study was contracted by the African Warrior Project of the South African National Defence Force (SANDF). The goal was to explore and describe fit in terms of ease of selected female military upper garments, namely the closely fitted dress jacket and the loosely fitted combat shirt issued by the SANDF. The objectives of this study were firstly, to determine and interpret the amount of tolerance that will comply with the functional requirements related to the activities and comfort of an optimum number of wearers and result in an aesthetically acceptable fit; secondly to analyse and interpret the suitability of the key dimensions used to determine the current size designation in terms of body shapes and gender; thirdly, to determine and interpret the relevance and the validity of the currently used sizing system with regard to representativeness of the current population's measurements. The findings indicated that satisfaction with fit was influenced by fit preferences. Insufficient as well as excess case in a particular location resulted in discomfort or restricted movement and an aesthetically unacceptable garment. Insufficient or excess ease at one location impacted on the comfort experienced in another location on the same horisontal level. Subjects wearing smaller sizes were satisfied with less ease than plus-sized subjects wearing larger sizes. The key dimensions used for the dress jacket and the combat shirt did not ensure sufficient ease at other locations. It was therefore recommended to include the waist and hip dimensions as key dimensions in the size designation to accommodate various body shapes and assist with size allocation. Garments for female wearers carmot be issued according to male body dimensions. The sizing system needs to be revised to represent the population's measurements. / ERGOnomics TECHnologies; Vaal University of Technology