Two dimensional experimental and numerical modeling of wave transmission and wave-induced current over detached submerged breakwaters has been carried out in this thesis. Two preliminary 3D and a comprehensive series of 2D laboratory experiments have been conducted in the wave basin and 3 m wide wave flume. The preliminary 3D experimental tests qualitatively investigated the flow behavior behind a submerged breakwater and confirmed the validity of the 2D tests. The 2D laboratory tests examined wave breaking, reflection, transmission as well as wave-induced set-up and currents over submerged breakwater/reef structures. Different approaches to experimental data processing are examined in producing reliable application of the 2D laboratory measurements. Sensitivity of wave transmission coefficient, wave-induced set-up and wave-induced discharge over submerged breakwaters to other dimensional and non-dimensional parameters are comprehensively investigated. Previously published analytical/experimental studies for predicting/calculating wave breaking, wave transmission, wave-induced set-up and current are discussed and compared with the present experimental results. Improved equations/models are presented. Numerical modeling of the hydrodynamic effects of wave breaking and flow over a submerged breakwater is investigated using Delft3D. The capability of the Delft3D numerical model to simulate wave height transformation and wave-induced current over submerged breakwaters is provided. Four different approaches using combinations/options within the two main modules of Delft3D (SWAN and FLOW) are tested in the numerical simulations and the results are compared to the laboratory experimental data. Guidance is provided as to the most appropriate application of WAVE/FLOW/ROLLER modules in Delft3D for the reliable prediction of discharge and wave height over different width submerged breakwaters.

Two dimensional experimental and numerical modeling of wave transmission and wave-induced current over detached submerged breakwaters has been carried out in this thesis. Two preliminary 3D and a comprehensive series of 2D laboratory experiments have been conducted in the wave basin and 3 m wide wave flume. The preliminary 3D experimental tests qualitatively investigated the flow behavior behind a submerged breakwater and confirmed the validity of the 2D tests. The 2D laboratory tests examined wave breaking, reflection, transmission as well as wave-induced set-up and currents over submerged breakwater/reef structures. Different approaches to experimental data processing are examined in producing reliable application of the 2D laboratory measurements. Sensitivity of wave transmission coefficient, wave-induced set-up and wave-induced discharge over submerged breakwaters to other dimensional and non-dimensional parameters are comprehensively investigated. Previously published analytical/experimental studies for predicting/calculating wave breaking, wave transmission, wave-induced set-up and current are discussed and compared with the present experimental results. Improved equations/models are presented. Numerical modeling of the hydrodynamic effects of wave breaking and flow over a submerged breakwater is investigated using Delft3D. The capability of the Delft3D numerical model to simulate wave height transformation and wave-induced current over submerged breakwaters is provided. Four different approaches using combinations/options within the two main modules of Delft3D (SWAN and FLOW) are tested in the numerical simulations and the results are compared to the laboratory experimental data. Guidance is provided as to the most appropriate application of WAVE/FLOW/ROLLER modules in Delft3D for the reliable prediction of discharge and wave height over different width submerged breakwaters.

Thesis (S.M.)--Joint Program in Oceanography/Applied Ocean Science and Engineering (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Mechanical Engineering; and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution), February 2010. / Cataloged from PDF version of thesis. / Includes bibliographical references (p. 327-334). / In the present work, we study the statistics of wavefields obtained from non-linear phase-resolved simulations. The numerical model used to generate the waves models wave-wave interactions based on the fully non-linear Zakharov equations. We vary the simulated wavefield's input spectral properties: directional spreading function, Phillips parameter and peak shape parameter. We then investigate the relationships between a wavefield's input spectral properties and its output physical properties via statistical analysis. We investigate surface elevation distribution, wave definition methods in a nonlinear wavefield with a two-dimensional wavenumber, defined waves' distributions, and the occurrence and spacing of large wave events. / by Legena Albertha Henry. / S.M.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Joint Program in Applied Ocean Science and Engineering (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering; and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution), 2007. / Includes bibliographical references. / Surfzone wave height transformation and wave-breaking-driven increases in the mean sea level (setup) are examined on alongshore-uniform beaches with alongshore homogeneous and inhomogeneous wave forcing. While previously derived models predict wave heights adequately (root-mean-square errors typically less than 20%), the models can be improved by tuning a free parameter or by using a new parameterization based on the deep-water wave height. Based on a sensitivity analysis of the cross-shore momentum balance used to predict setup, a one-dimensional (1-D) model is developed that includes wave rollers and bottom stress owing to the mean offshore-directed flow. The model predicts setup accurately at three alongshore homogeneous field sites, as well as at a site where the incident wave field is alongshore non-uniform, suggesting that setup is driven primarily by the cross-shore (1-D) forcing. Furthermore, alongshore gradients of setup can be important to driving alongshore flows in the surfzone, and the 1-D setup model predicts these gradients accurately enough to simulate the observed flows. / by Alex Apotsos. / Ph.D.